After tranny fluid change, how long until it’s mixed up?

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CRB357

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I just dropped the pan and replaced the filters on a 16 2500 5.7 4x4 187k. Old fluid pretty dark. I would like to get as much of that old fluid out. How many miles until I drain and refill? I have a fluid extractor that goes down the dip stick that makes it super easy. My truck is shifting better since I swapped out 7qts of old with new. Used the Wix filter w/ a metal thread fitting. Thanks for that info forum! Figured getting more old out and fresh fluid in it could get better. Not as smooth as I would like. Clunky on downshift to 2nd when coming to stop at red lights.

Oh and there was a screw laying in my drain pan. It was from valve body and I found it’s home. Any chance that would cause P0934 or P0868? I cleared code after the fluid/filters change and they have come back after 100+ miles.‍♂️IMG_4912.jpeg
 
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CRB357

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Hahaha, I drove to Autozone to get a gallon of Valvoline ATF+4 and CEL is on. P0934
 

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Probably 2 minutes ...if that. Give it 3 ...for good measure :)

Fluid flow through a tranny is real fast. It takes about 16-20 seconds with the engine at idle to flush all the old fluid out of the torque converter. I've done it many times on a variety of vehicles over the years doing a fluid change/flush. So if it takes 20 seconds at the long end of the estimate to flush 4-5qts out of the torque converter, ...that would constitute ~3 cycles in one minute. So in a couple minutes it ought to be fully 'mixed'.

You might have to have it fully warmed for flow through the radiator (??). But there isn't more than a couple cups of fluid in the radiator.
 
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Jeepwalker

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Oh and there was a screw laying in my drain pan. It was from valve body and I found it’s home.

Good man (on putting the bolt back). If you took it to a shop for a trans fluid change, they'd put that bolt in their pan of shavings and try to convince you your transmission was shot (been there!).

After you cleared the codes (again)...do they still persist? Is there a tans fluid bypass valve on your trans cooling line/s? (#2 in link below). Have you checked that? If not, do a search for other posts ...it's been a source of problems on Rams. Could be the sensors (or wire connectors) are getting flaky. Is the engine running the 'right' temp? If those other things are good, you might have a trans shop, dealer (or do it yourself per the service manual) check pressures on it. It could be something got lodge between the valve body and plate leaking a bit of fluid. Just thinking out loud here. Does it seem to shift ok?

 
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Jeepwalker

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The way some people (not me of course!) get all the fluid out after a change is 1) Do the filter/oil change per normal. 2) Add in about 1.5 extra qts, 3) remove fluid line at radiator. 4) Put (new) clear vinyl hose from feed line into white bucket (so you can see the fluid color). Have helper start vehicle and watch fluid fluid color. 5) You might need to shut off after 10-12 seconds and add in 2 qts of fluid (have fluid and funnel ready to do it quickly). 6) restart vehicle and have helper shut off when fluid transistions from muddy to 'clear' new fluid. The whole process goes quick...like less than 20 seconds. Never run 'dry'. It's not a job for a dufus or newbie to attempt. 7) Then top off as per normal.



Of course, I am not advocating this...just reporting what I've read others have done....
 
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CRB357

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Thanks for the info. I figured it would mix quick but had no idea.

So I pulled 3 more qts out yesterday then refilled w/ 3 qts. I drove about 5 miles to dealer to get a pressure sensor so I could swap it out. When I started up truck at dealer, the CEL P0934 was gone. I drove about 250 miles today pulling boat to go fishing. Still no CEL‍♂️. Tranny seems to be a little better after swapping 3 more qts. I have the new sensor in glove box. That downshift to 2nd or 1st is still kind of clanky when coming to a stop. I’ll pull another 3 qts out next week. Fluid is getting cleaner with each swap. So far that is 10 qts that have been removed and replaced with fresh stuff.
 

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See how it goes with the new fluid. Maybe you're making some progress.

If it persists, you might have the dealership look at it, or a tranny shop. Shift Solenoid flake-out is not uncommon. Or there could be another issue as mentioned above that can be resolved. Make sure there aren't any engine codes present.
:waytogo:
 

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Sea foam. Makes one for transmissions. Worked pretty good for me. Just add it and drive it. DO NOT use regular sea foam. Will cook clutch’s. I used it on a low mile ford Aod that sat for a while & wouldn’t hit OD. Started shifting fine in less than 1mile. Also used on my ram 545rfe. Might help
 
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CRB357

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See how it goes with the new fluid. Maybe you're making some progress.

If it persists, you might have the dealership look at it, or a tranny shop. Shift Solenoid flake-out is not uncommon. Or there could be another issue as mentioned above that can be resolved. Make sure there aren't any engine codes present.
:waytogo:
No other codes…….as of now anyway
 

Dusty

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I just dropped the pan and replaced the filters on a 16 2500 5.7 4x4 187k. Old fluid pretty dark. I would like to get as much of that old fluid out. How many miles until I drain and refill? I have a fluid extractor that goes down the dip stick that makes it super easy. My truck is shifting better since I swapped out 7qts of old with new. Used the Wix filter w/ a metal thread fitting. Thanks for that info forum! Figured getting more old out and fresh fluid in it could get better. Not as smooth as I would like. Clunky on downshift to 2nd when coming to stop at red lights.

Oh and there was a screw laying in my drain pan. It was from valve body and I found it’s home. Any chance that would cause P0934 or P0868? I cleared code after the fluid/filters change and they have come back after 100+ miles.‍♂️View attachment 542278
You don't indicate how many miles is on the vehicle or the fluid.

Has the transmission ever had the valvebody removed?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 110818 miles.
 
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CRB357

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You don't indicate how many miles is on the vehicle or the fluid.

Has the transmission ever had the valvebody removed?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 110818 miles.
It says 187k. I just bought it and have no idea about valve body being dropped. Dunno.
 

CanuckRam1313

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Sea foam. Makes one for transmissions. Worked pretty good for me. Just add it and drive it. DO NOT use regular sea foam. Will cook clutch’s. I used it on a low mile ford Aod that sat for a while & wouldn’t hit OD. Started shifting fine in less than 1mile. Also used on my ram 545rfe. Might help
While I understand the sentiment... do not put anything but the recommended fluid in these tranny's, period.

I would say to drop the pan and do a full gravity drain, overnight if possible, and then refill with fresh fluid and then drive. Ensure you follow the correct refill procedures, and fingers crossed that all operations are back to fantastic after this!

That's my $0.02 ;)
 
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CRB357

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I extracted 3 more qts and refilled yesterday. Up to 13 qts now. I have 3 more quarts of new fluid. P0934 came back too. I’m going to change the pressure sensor now. Probably do next week. I’ll update.
 
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CRB357

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Ok I was finally able to change the pressure transducer sensor today and P0934 went away. However, it was immediately replaced by P0869 Transmission Fluid Pressure High. I had P0868 before P0934, but it went away when I discovered the fluid was overfilled and set it to correct level. Dunno what is going on, but tranny seems to be working better than it has since I bought the truck. Any insight on the P0869 would be welcomed.
 

Jeepwalker

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Glad is seems to be working better. Is the new sensor Mopar or aftermarket?

Only thing I can think of is if somehow the new one is a different pressure than what is called for(??) You might consider doing a pressure test (??), or try another sensor.
 

Sherman Bird

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Good man (on putting the bolt back). If you took it to a shop for a trans fluid change, they'd put that bolt in their pan of shavings and try to convince you your transmission was shot (been there!).

After you cleared the codes (again)...do they still persist? Is there a tans fluid bypass valve on your trans cooling line/s? (#2 in link below). Have you checked that? If not, do a search for other posts ...it's been a source of problems on Rams. Could be the sensors (or wire connectors) are getting flaky. Is the engine running the 'right' temp? If those other things are good, you might have a trans shop, dealer (or do it yourself per the service manual) check pressures on it. It could be something got lodge between the valve body and plate leaking a bit of fluid. Just thinking out loud here. Does it seem to shift ok?

THE very reason I chose an automotive path in life was due to 3 chains of Transmission specialty shops trying to rip me off when I was 17, had my first car ( a 1968 Falcon with a C4 automatic transmission), and it suddenly began to engage park and reverse extremely hard and would not upshift into higher gears until very high RPM/ MPH.

All 3 of these shops "salted" my pan with shavings and tried to sell me an overhaul/ major internal repair. I could not afford the astronomical 300 dollars to overhaul the trans. (My parents' mortgage was 78 dollars a month and Mom fed all 5 of us on 20 dollars a week, and gasoline averaged .35 per gallon for perspective)

It might as well have been 3 million dollars; I didn't have it. So, I got out the yellow pages...(you DO remember that, eh?) and began to call trans shops in the more industrial side of Houston.

I got a hold of a gravelly old man at a place called "General Transmissions" in the Gulfgate vicinity of S.E. Houston.

He told me to check the vacuum hose at the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Sure enough, it had rotted and split and fallen off. The purchase of 10 cent's worth of vacuum hose at a Pettigrew-Smith auto parts store fixed it and the trans never had a problem again.
 
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CRB357

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Any idea how to bench test the sensor to see if it is good?

I may try another sensor bc I noticed the baggie the sensor came in was sliced open and taped over. Makes me wonder if someone put a bad one back in the bag and resold it. Or maybe put a cheapo one in a Mopar bag and sold it. People can just be terrible these days.
 

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