another cam bites the dust - I think

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gnick

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long time lurker here

2011 ram
5.7
92000 miles
I've run redline since 40k when I bought it and I always turn the MDS off.

I was driving last night on the highway and the truck started to shudder, and the engine light came on. I pulled over. I happened to have a code reader in the truck, and the code came up as Cylinder 7 misfire. I cleared the code just so I could get home and it started and ran fine other than it wanting to shudder a little bit with light throttle going up a long hill. Regardless, I think we know what's going on. The more I drive it, the more damage I'll do to the cam. So I'm just going to leave it parked for now.

I'd love to just take it somewhere, trade it in, and pick up another vehicle so I don't have to deal with it. However, trading something in with an engine light on seems like a great way to get nothing for the trade in. Right now there is no code since I cleared it, but I'm sure if I drove it around enough it would come back. If I tried to trade it in without a code, I'm pretty sure the dealer can tell that a code has been cleared recently.

I was going to start calling around today to shops and see if they would quote me cam/lifters. I'm sure they'll want to diagnose it first and try coils/plugs etc, but it's likely we'll end up at the cam/lifters. I'm probably looking at a $5-8k repair here on an 11 year old truck. It may make sense to fix it since a comparable truck is probably still ~$25k here right now.

any thoughts on how to approach this?
 

Burn2k12Ram

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If you are going to fix it make sure it is a reman not just factory/stock. Not all but at least some of the more common issues would be addressed and could get a transferable warranty. I really feel the issue with the lifters(thanks to very knowledgeable members here) is lack of lube/oil flow to the lifters especially at lower RPM/idling. If you are to spend that much and get the work done you could have the same issue sooner down the road due to not addressing the issue. If it were to happen to me I would make sure that I have better than stock oil flow to the parts that seem to be lacking. I would make sure and install a Melling oil pump which is better than the stock and ensures a much better oil flow to the much needed parts compared to stock.
 

Burla

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Bummer. I'd leave mds on, it lubricates the hemi better as we learned about 1/2 way through this process. What weight oil did you use? So- so far only one mis-fire? Gotta verify, pop the coil pack with another coil pack, even the spark plug, and see if the code travels or even reappears. So you never had hemi tick? When did you do spark plugs last on a 2011? I'm not convinced just yet it is a cam lob, but certainly a possibility.
 

Burla

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You are gonna have to drive some more to verify. Was engine hot when the codes and shudder came? It never happened when it was cold?
 

Sillygoose

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Gotta verify, pop the coil pack with another coil pack, even the spark plug, and see if the code travels or even reappears.
Do this simple step first to verify. Also swap injectors.
If it only happens at high rpm's, you can drive it easy to a dealer and dump it lol.
Happened to mine last fall, I decided to replace the cam/lifters myself.
Dealer said it needed a new engine at about $9k. Could probably find a shop to fix it for $5-6k (in NY). I did it myself in the $3k range including new headers/mds delete/mild cam.
 
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gnick

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Bummer. I'd leave mds on, it lubricates the hemi better as we learned about 1/2 way through this process. What weight oil did you use? So- so far only one mis-fire? Gotta verify, pop the coil pack with another coil pack, even the spark plug, and see if the code travels or even reappears. So you never had hemi tick? When did you do spark plugs last on a 2011? I'm not convinced just yet it is a cam lob, but certainly a possibility.
i did the spark plugs at 60k miles. I cleared the code and haven't driven it. I'll drive it some more lightly and swam stuff when the code comes back on.

here is the engine noise

does that sound abnormal?
 
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gnick

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Do this simple step first to verify. Also swap injectors.
If it only happens at high rpm's, you can drive it easy to a dealer and dump it lol.
Happened to mine last fall, I decided to replace the cam/lifters myself.
Dealer said it needed a new engine at about $9k. Could probably find a shop to fix it for $5-6k (in NY). I did it myself in the $3k range including new headers/mds delete/mild cam.
that sounds like a pretty big job. How long did it take you?

I may just drive it to a CarMax or something like that, and see what kind of cash they will give me. A dealer is going to want me to buy something else. I can go a little while without a car, although it would be painful.
 
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gnick

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You are gonna have to drive some more to verify. Was engine hot when the codes and shudder came? It never happened when it was cold?
it wasn't upon startup, so it wasn't cold necessarily. I probably drove 5 minutes, and then I was pulling onto the highway and the shudder happened and the light came on.

i did notice last week that it was a little hard starting a couple of times.
 
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gnick

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Is it ticking to?
no more than it always has
If you are going to fix it make sure it is a reman not just factory/stock. Not all but at least some of the more common issues would be addressed and could get a transferable warranty. I really feel the issue with the lifters(thanks to very knowledgeable members here) is lack of lube/oil flow to the lifters especially at lower RPM/idling. If you are to spend that much and get the work done you could have the same issue sooner down the road due to not addressing the issue. If it were to happen to me I would make sure that I have better than stock oil flow to the parts that seem to be lacking. I would make sure and install a Melling oil pump which is better than the stock and ensures a much better oil flow to the much needed parts compared to stock.
I'll have to call some shops. I don't know if I want to be purchasing all the parts and walking them into a shop. seems like a hassle.
 

Burla

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i did the spark plugs at 60k miles. I cleared the code and haven't driven it. I'll drive it some more lightly and swam stuff when the code comes back on.

here is the engine noise

does that sound abnormal?
that engine sounds very smooth, I would do many steps to verify before calling it a cam lob. I would be inclined to spend 28 bucks blackstone labs and get a wear report. Something doesnt seem right here, it just isnt the usual cam fail. Still possible, but in this case I think you have a decent chance at it being something else. I rarely say that.
 
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gnick

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I'd do what @Burla suggested first, It may be just a spark plug or coil pack. I'd change both plugs and the coil to the #7 cylinder before I did anything else. It's a very good chance that's what it is.
OK - thanks. I appreciate that.
 
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gnick

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that engine sounds very smooth, I would do many steps to verify before calling it a cam lob. I would be inclined to spend 28 bucks blackstone labs and get a wear report. Something doesnt seem right here, it just isnt the usual cam fail. Still possible, but in this case I think you have a decent chance at it being something else. I rarely say that.
thanks for the help. I'll drive it a little more and have the blackstone test done again. I had it done maybe 15k miles ago and it was all good.
 

Burn2k12Ram

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I had a 2002 Dodge ram do exactly just this, felt it shudder, and code came on, same but cylinder 1 missfire. To find out was just a spark plug. Something really simple and hope it is for you. Even though you already changed them out is possible #7 plug went bad for whatever reason. Maybe even the spark plug wire.
 

jws123

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Engine sounds better then mine Lol I would def check injectors/coils/plugs first What part of Nj are you from? I work on a lot of hemis.
 

Awokenotwoke

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If you are going to fix it make sure it is a reman not just factory/stock. Not all but at least some of the more common issues would be addressed and could get a transferable warranty. I really feel the issue with the lifters(thanks to very knowledgeable members here) is lack of lube/oil flow to the lifters especially at lower RPM/idling. If you are to spend that much and get the work done you could have the same issue sooner down the road due to not addressing the issue. If it were to happen to me I would make sure that I have better than stock oil flow to the parts that seem to be lacking. I would make sure and install a Melling oil pump which is better than the stock and ensures a much better oil flow to the much needed parts compared to stock.
I looked on the Melling site to see what they offer and noticed the pumps only fit a range of engines ending at 2018. Is this because Chrysler/Ram have updated the pump from 2019 and above or simply due to casting changes that they have not yet produced? Thanks.
 

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