Anyone HAPPY with Borg Warner 44-44 / Auto 4WD

[ColdCase]

When you put it into 4-Auto the axle actuator is triggered and now both sides of the front axles are connected to the diff. *Technically* there is still no torque coming from the transfer case, but this is up for debate (some people say there is 0, some people say there is 10 or 15% even if the rears are not slipping).

In 4WD auto, one of the two half axles is split (disconnected) until the computer thinks it needs to power the front wheels. In 2WD its always split.

In 4WD lock, the axle disconnect is locked in, thats why RAM calls it the locked position, not that the transfer case is locked. Thats why most feel some drag on turns when lock mode is selected, where no drag is felt in auto mode.

You can think of the front axle as three pieces. One section is connected between the diff and wheel, another section connected between the diff and axle disconnect, and the third section connected between the axle disconnect and the other wheel. The axle disconnect basically shifts a spline back an forth on the two pieces of axle to lock them together or unlock them. So one axle half is always connected to the diff as well as the drive shaft, so the diff can be working a bit and depending on where the most friction is, may spin the driveshaft, or may not.

 

[Moparman16]

Just a little update...

44-45 transfer case and 44-45 switch came in today. The t-case didn’t come with an encoder motor, despite the eBay ad showing it had one. Thankfully I was able to confirm that the 44-44 and 44-45 use the same encoder motor, so I can just use the one off my current t-case.

I installed the switch tonight because I was curious as to whether or not it would work with the 44-44. It worked perfect which leads me to believe that the switches are interchangeable.

Also made a some good discoveries on the AlfaOBD side of things. It’s looking like the only programming difference between a 44-44 and 44-45 truck is the “transfer case type”...seems too easy.

Picked up some fresh fluid for the t-case install and with any luck I will have the case in tomorrow or Friday ....just in time for a blizzard set to hit my area on the weekend. Good chance to test everything out!

 

[indept]

In 4WD auto, one of the two half axles is split (disconnected) until the computer thinks it needs to power the front wheels. In 2WD its always split.

In 4WD lock, the axle disconnect is locked in, thats why RAM calls it the locked position, not that the transfer case is locked. Thats why most feel some drag on turns when lock mode is selected, where no drag is felt in auto mode.

You can think of the front axle as three pieces. One section is connected between the diff and wheel, another section connected between the diff and axle disconnect, and the third section connected between the axle disconnect and the other wheel. The axle disconnect basically shifts a spline back an forth on the two pieces of axle to lock them together or unlock them. So one axle half is always connected to the diff as well as the drive shaft, so the diff can be working a bit and depending on where the most friction is, may spin the driveshaft, or may not.

Do you know of any sites with info (and diagrams)?

 

[chrisbh17]

In 4WD auto, one of the two half axles is split (disconnected) until the computer thinks it needs to power the front wheels. In 2WD its always split.

In 4WD lock, the axle disconnect is locked in, thats why RAM calls it the locked position, not that the transfer case is locked. Thats why most feel some drag on turns when lock mode is selected, where no drag is felt in auto mode.

You can think of the front axle as three pieces. One section is connected between the diff and wheel, another section connected between the diff and axle disconnect, and the third section connected between the axle disconnect and the other wheel. The axle disconnect basically shifts a spline back an forth on the two pieces of axle to lock them together or unlock them. So one axle half is always connected to the diff as well as the drive shaft, so the diff can be working a bit and depending on where the most friction is, may spin the driveshaft, or may not.

Interesting, that's the first time I've heard that the axle actuator is "dynamic" in 4 auto.



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[chrisbh17]

In 4WD auto, one of the two half axles is split (disconnected) until the computer thinks it needs to power the front wheels. In 2WD its always split.

In 4WD lock, the axle disconnect is locked in, thats why RAM calls it the locked position, not that the transfer case is locked. Thats why most feel some drag on turns when lock mode is selected, where no drag is felt in auto mode.

You can think of the front axle as three pieces. One section is connected between the diff and wheel, another section connected between the diff and axle disconnect, and the third section connected between the axle disconnect and the other wheel. The axle disconnect basically shifts a spline back an forth on the two pieces of axle to lock them together or unlock them. So one axle half is always connected to the diff as well as the drive shaft, so the diff can be working a bit and depending on where the most friction is, may spin the driveshaft, or may not.

So an informal experiment.

I have a floorpan/gas pedal/steering wheel "buzz" type vibration around 2K RPM while under acceleration. It happens in all drive modes, but is much more noticeable with the truck in any 4WD setting. To the point that I can be accelerating, feel the vibration, then press 4-Auto and once the truck switches over the vibration becomes a LOT more pronounced.

The reason I mention this is because SOMETHING is obviously changing when the truck is put in 4-Auto. The rear wheels arent slipping, but I still think the axle actuator is linked in. I also cant see them making the actuator move back and forth at will because its too slow to react and lock in the front diff, along with a lot of wear being generated on the actuator motor/fork/etc. And if the actuator isnt changing when I use 4-Auto, then what is changing that makes my vibration worse?

 

[Hemi395]

I was under the impression that the front axle disconnect is engaged all the time in 4auto it's just the Tcase doesn't engage the clutch to power the front wheels until it detects rear wheel spin...

Edit: just remembered with the key on engine off, I can hear the disconnect engaging if I put it in 4 Auto...

 

[chrisbh17]

I was under the impression that the front axle disconnect is engaged all the time in 4auto it's just the Tcase doesn't engage the clutch to power the front wheels until it detects rear wheel spin...

Same here.

The only thing I know of that is up for debate in 4-Auto is if there is any power sent to the front wheels regardless of rear wheel status.

I still find it interesting that the actuator being linked in makes my vibration worse. Kinda narrows down what the issue could be but of course no dealer can "find" it (I use find in quotes because its not like they actually look for it)

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

I don’t think any power is sent to the front until a) you apply enough throttle and b) slippage is detected.

Now I seem to remember a tech chimed in stating the slippage is read from the abs sensors as well as something on the tcase. I believe it looks for differences in wheel speed and driveshaft rotation.

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Just a little update...

44-45 transfer case and 44-45 switch came in today. The t-case didn’t come with an encoder motor, despite the eBay ad showing it had one. Thankfully I was able to confirm that the 44-44 and 44-45 use the same encoder motor, so I can just use the one off my current t-case.

I installed the switch tonight because I was curious as to whether or not it would work with the 44-44. It worked perfect which leads me to believe that the switches are interchangeable.

Also made a some good discoveries on the AlfaOBD side of things. It’s looking like the only programming difference between a 44-44 and 44-45 truck is the “transfer case type”...seems too easy.

Picked up some fresh fluid for the t-case install and with any luck I will have the case in tomorrow or Friday ....just in time for a blizzard set to hit my area on the weekend. Good chance to test everything out!

Please, please, let this work!!!!!!

 

[chrisbh17]

Please, please, let this work!!!!!!

Now the question will be is the better fix getting a 44-45 switch and case, or the Rockland Standard kit to mod a 44-44 into a 44-45?

 

[Moparman16]

Now the question will be is the better fix getting a 44-45 switch and case, or the Rockland Standard kit to mod a 44-44 into a 44-45?

44-45 cases are easy to come by and cheaper then the kit’s proposed price. I don’t think the 44-45 switch is needed but I got mine for cheap.

If you look on eBay or car-part.com you should have no issue getting a 44-45 case for cheap.

Just for reference, total price of the switch, t-case and shipping was $285 CAD and the case was out of a 2016 Ram 1500 with only 42,000km. There were even cheaper cases when I started looking but they had more mileage or just looked more well used.

 

[chrisbh17]

Yeah was poking around ebay and they arent overly expensive. Relatively new ones are a bit higher but still tolerable I suppose.

Unfortunately I have MaxCare, Im sure changing to 44-45 would void whatever they feel like voiding!

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Now the question will be is the better fix getting a 44-45 switch and case, or the Rockland Standard kit to mod a 44-44 into a 44-45?

IIRC from reading the RSG article, converting the 44-44 is “better” in a sense because it’s stronger. Don’t remember what was beefier........but I doubt strength is really an issue with either.

 

[Hemi395]

I believe it was the input shaft or output shaft or maybe both that was bigger on the 44-44.

 

[chrisbh17]

IIRC from reading the RSG article, converting the 44-44 is “better” in a sense because it’s stronger. Don’t remember what was beefier........but I doubt strength is really an issue with either.

This article?

https://transmissiondigest.com/members1/online/issuepdfs/TD201504.pdf

I can never get that link to work...if anyone has the PDF Id appreciate a copy!

 

[Moparman16]

Here you go

 

[Moparman16]

The way I look at it there are plenty of other things that will break before the 44-45 will so whether or not the 44-44 with the kit is stronger really doesn't matter. Plus if you sell your 44-44 after installing a 44-45 you could end up breaking even cost wise.

 

[chrisbh17]

The way I look at it there are plenty of other things that will break before the 44-45 will so whether or not the 44-44 with the kit is stronger really doesn't matter. Plus if you sell your 44-44 after installing a 44-45 you could end up breaking even cost wise.

Agreed. My issue isn't the -45 not being as tough. I don't off road but I do drive in snow.

My guess is clutches would wear out long before a shaft breaks.

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[JPT]

Agreed. My issue isn't the -45 not being as tough. I don't off road but I do drive in snow.

My guess is clutches would wear out long before a shaft breaks.

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So far, I have not heard of any systemic problems with the 44-45 and snow. I know my truck isn't all that old (2015 with 55k miles), but the only issue I've had in snow was tire related, with my current tires I am unstoppable. Now deep heavy offroad type snow (that I used to do with my Jeep on 35" Goodyear MTR's), I think it would also be tires more than the TC.

 

[Hemi395]

Plus it's much easier to swap a Tcase than open it up and add and tear it all apart to install the RSG kit.

I haven't heard of any 44-45 failures here or on any other forum. Seems to be a really good Tcase.