Audio Upgrade & Modification Basics!

[Gixxer750]

You may want to consider making your own t-harness. It’s going to be similar to the wiring adaptor you bought from LL’s. AudioControl makes some modules specifically for Ram/Dodge/Chrysler products. Do you have an AudioControl’s LC7i ?

Wait wow, you are only wanting to add an amp and sub. Easy. So easy it hurts. Every ram has the factory sub plug tuck in under the carpet even if you have the express base model. Ther is a slit in the carpet where the factory sub would be. You really have to fish, or pop the carpet plastic retaining tabs to make it easy. Then all you need is the lc2i and hook those wires up to it. Now this is the trick, not really, with plug in hand you have the wire colors and pairs. Pop the kick panel trim up front. You'll for ease see the connector they go in. And notice its not got anything pinned in the other side to send signal. I was adding an amp for the front doors and dash and just jumped from the left and right rear behind head unit to those 2 pair. There are a number of ways to achieve this. It sounded just fine with the LPF filter set at 100 and sub sonic filter on. But do know that I used a d4.800 and noticed there is no full signal in any ram speaker. Alpine or base. But the 6 speaker rears where more than adequate and im a true audiophile. I also recommend using a remote turn on and not the GTO. The GTO for audio control has a tendency to put a pop through the speaker because of the power delays on the trucks

 

[Gixxer750]

I just wanted to add a few notes to my speaker upgrade. I was in a time cruch so no tutorial or pics, but for anyone wanting to do a simple speaker swap, here is the route I went.

Vehicle is a 2018 Ram Power Wagon with the 8.4" Uconnect (no Nav) and 6 factory speakers.

I went with the Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C up front (the kit includes 3.5" mid-range speakers for the dash location) and 6x9's for the doors. For the rear, I used the Kenwood Excelon KFC-X694. I used Metra 72-6514 adapters for the front and rear door speakers and 72-7902 adapters for the dash speakers. I also put Dynamat Xtreme (10455) inside the door skins. The 36 sq ft bulk kit is plenty for all 4 doors.

As far as fitment, the front door speakers are pretty much drop in. They just clear the window frame mechanism. I cut strips of Dynamat and used them as a gasket between the speaker and the door panel. It gave just a tad more clearance and provided a good seal. The rear speakers required a 1/4" spacer to clear the rear window mechanism. The X694 set did not come with spacers but the XP6903C did, so I just used those. For the rear, I used a thin bead of epoxy between the speaker and the spacer then I used 1/4" foam weather seal between the spacer and the door skin.

I did the 4 ohm resistor mod for the dash speakers. I soldered the resistor in-line. I ordered the Dayton Audio 4 ohm/10W reistors from Parts Express. I used the foram weather strip for the back of the dask speakers. The hole is too open for a true seal, but it did it to eliminate any chance of rattling. I also wrapped the Metra adapter with the resistor with Tesa wire loom tape - nice stuff.

The speakers themselves sound great over the factory. Deeper base, better mids and highs without being too bright...I'm really impressed with the soundstage and the separation of instruments. I ma very happy with the upgrade.

I would rate the install a 4/5 out of 10 for the difficulty due to the resistor soldering and pulling the inner door panels off to do the Dynamat. If you just wanted to drop in the speakers and crimp the resistors in for the front speakers, it would be an easy 3/10.

Wow. What have you done that is an 8? Maybe I factor time into it but sound deadening both my sports and now my limited sucked. (Did it alone) an extra hand would have made it pretty simple. But tapping the window up and pulling inner door panels was not fun. I hated getting the door latch portion out of the door ever time thinking I was flexing it too much and that I was scratching the hell out of visible paint. Non of which proved true. But took a half day. (I spend a good amount of time working on any vehicle throwing the football for my dog, so it seems) But it also gives me moments to calm down

 

[dogman1911]

I found the best forum threads and YT videos I could and reviewed multiple times before I attempted it.

Installing the White Knuckle Offroad sliders myself was an 8

 

[SergN1500]

Where can I find Aftermarket radio bevels to replace my 5.0 RA2 Uconnect.

 

[kidmandudebro]

I just got my speaker upgrade going to try install my self "plug n play"

Dash are Infinity REF3032cfx
Front Door Kenwood KFC-E1665 with kit for door these are 6x5's
Back Door Infinity Primus PR9613is 6x9's
All Metra harness's

I got to get some door panel tools.

 

[SergN1500]

I want to do a aftermarket radio and backup camera for my 2017 1500 but I cannot find any affordable aftermarket radio trim to replace my Uconnect 5.0

 

[canadiankodiak700]

Trim rings are only like $50 cdn or less depending on year and if you have a 8.4 or not, which you don't, so your in the $30 cdn range. That's pretty cheap compared to alot of other vehicles out there

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[SixteenLaramie]

This may have been answered somewhere so forgive me if so.
If I upgraded my 2016 Laramie radio to a newer model (2019,2020,etc) will that give me any benefits? Like being faster or connecting with my android phone better? I'd like to be able to use the Waze app on my screen. Right now I still have to use my phone

 

[LeeD]

This may have been answered somewhere so forgive me if so.
If I upgraded my 2016 Laramie radio to a newer model (2019,2020,etc) will that give me any benefits? Like being faster or connecting with my android phone better? I'd like to be able to use the Waze app on my screen. Right now I still have to use my phone

I don't know what all is involved but my 2018 Sport has the Apple/Android Carplay and I love using it with Waze and seeing the map on the screen.

 

[SixteenLaramie]

I don't know what all is involved but my 2018 Sport has the Apple/Android Carplay and I love using it with Waze and seeing the map on the screen.

That's what I'd like to have. Hoping someone can answer this??

 

[salmore]

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-AP4-CH41...=1570714098&sprefix=ap4-ch41+r,aps,153&sr=8-1

I'm thinking same thing, keep factory head unit but upgrade the rest. I think this plugs into your radio, they tap off the speaker wires and send them to the LOC to RCA, let all the other signals pass thru

Let me know if you come up with something

I got it all working. Bought a $5 connector which converts speaker wire input into rca and tapped into existing speaker cables behind head unit.

Sent from my CPH2089 using Tapatalk

 

[Perferd]

So much stuff to read here but I'm wondering if anyone that has the upgraded alpine 10 speaker system has some a full system upgrade or a partial upgrade - head unit only or speakers only or subs only and posted their info?

How is the alpine system over the normal one as in upgrading the upgrade even worth it?

Thx

 

[cam101]

Last year around April I had a complete audio overhaul done on my truck. My truck is a 2019 classic express with the 6 speaker set up and 5" factory radio. You can see the link here https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2019-ram-1500-classic-audio-overhaul.164700/
I bought my wiring harness from crutchfield as well as the Idatalink Maestro. For my door speakers I used speaker adapters from Net Audio https://netaudio.com/product/dodge-ram-door-speaker-harness/ I also bought the seat spacers from them as well. Hush mat kits was off of Amazon.

 

[Herb Tarlic]

So pretty basic questions here...for the case of aftermarket replacement of OEM 8.4 without NAV in 2015 crewcab 4x4 bighorn 3.6L flexfuel....with dual zone climate control.....

1. what are the exact dimensions of the open bezel space where the OEM display is visible? I'm aware the 8.4 inch diagonally measured display is 185 x 142 mm...and this appears to include the "lip" of the display because those dimensions correspond to 9.2 inch diagonal not 8.4....if I'm doing my math right the "useable display area" is 6.7 x 5.0 inches approx...so that implies those are the dimensions of the "bezel hole"...am I making any mistakes here?

2. I asked question 1 to ask this as a followup: all the articles and videos I find seem to ALWAYS require a new bezel or new bezel insert....but if I buy a radio with a useable display area that is less than 6.7 x 5.0 (see question 1), can I skip the bezel replacement if I'm willing to live with some "open space" where the new display is smaller than the OE bezel opening?

3. It looks like some of the "large display" products (9" 10" etc) out there feature a display that connects perpendicularly to the aftermarket chassis, whether the chassis is single or double din. If that's right, does that mean if I looked behind the display of one of these after installation, I would see the aftermarket chassis sitting inside the "open hole in the bezel" left by removing the OEM display (because the DIN/DDIN chassis is smaller dimensionally than the OE display)?

yes I know I could have answered question 1 with a tape measure, but since I also had questions 2 and 3 I just included it here.

 

[tron67j]

For Q2 yes, you can skip the bezel if you don't mind open space, at least on my 2018 it would work that since the radio bezel screws to the back of the larger heating and a/ac bezel. But it won't look good. The larger after market ones I looked at essentially have gaps behind it if you look there, at least the one I looked at. Just for awareness I think you can out the the 2018-2019 8.4 UAS in your truck with an adapter system that would allow you to use the Android Auto or Car Play features like connecting your phone and using your phone's map app via the radio touch screen, in case that helps. Good luck.

 

[Herb Tarlic]

For Q2 yes, you can skip the bezel if you don't mind open space, at least on my 2018 it would work that since the radio bezel screws to the back of the larger heating and a/ac bezel. But it won't look good. The larger after market ones I looked at essentially have gaps behind it if you look there, at least the one I looked at. Just for awareness I think you can out the the 2018-2019 8.4 UAS in your truck with an adapter system that would allow you to use the Android Auto or Car Play features like connecting your phone and using your phone's map app via the radio touch screen, in case that helps. Good luck.

Thanks for your reply. I was aware that if I replace the 4th gen radio with a 2018 unit that I can use Waze, etc on the screen...but it sounds like you are saying I can do this simpler by keeping the original chassis and just replacing the screen? If that's right, could you point me to a thread or video which shows how that is done?

Edit: nevermind. I have a 2015 and dont really want to "upgrade" to 2018+. Pretty sure I'm gonna go aftermarket with SWC.

 

[tron67j]

Thanks for your reply. I was aware that if I replace the 4th gen radio with a 2018 unit that I can use Waze, etc on the screen...but it sounds like you are saying I can do this simpler by keeping the original chassis and just replacing the screen? If that's right, could you point me to a thread or video which shows how that is done?

Edit: nevermind. I have a 2015 and dont really want to "upgrade" to 2018+. Pretty sure I'm gonna go aftermarket with SWC.

Just for awareness it would be replacing the whole unit. I upgraded mine from basic to UAS. Looked aftermarket but wanted full screen. Crutchfield tech were great in helping me build a package before I ended up with UAS. Good luck

 

[Herb Tarlic]

This forum is like other Ram and FCA forums in that there is a lot more information about upgrade options with "newer" OEM equipment than with traditional aftermarket equipment or "android-based" equipment. That's not a criticism its just an observation from a new late model Ram owner trying to decide what he wants to do.

Some of the "mysteries" I'm trying to sort out include...

For traditional aftermarket solutions (JVC, Kenwood, Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, etc)
- what exactly is required for complete SWC retention, and which adapter solution is best (PAC, Axxess, Crum, iDataLink, etc.?)
- if I want a 9+ display unit, can I buy a unit with a single din chassis and not have to take a saw to the frame inside the bezel and replace the bezel?
For android-based solutions (Daisaita, Joying, etc)
- have we gotten to the point where the higher end units with DSP, etc. where the higher resolution and Android 10 features plus lower cost is a good decision?
- the idea of returns to China is frightening...will the market be "stuck" with $500 versus $200, $700 versus $350 and $1000 versus $500 forever?
- you would think that someone would enter the market offering local android-based solutions (cost, features, warranty).

The youtube videos on this topic are usually either an installer rationalizing why traditional is the better option or android fanboys promising that the features and cost of the android-based solution justify the risk of buying from Yangtzee Province. Nobody is really addressing the "gap" between these two solutions.

 

[tron67j]

Lots of good questions, wish I could help more but my knowledge is limited. If it were me, I would decide first if I want to stay stock or not and if not what size screen is desired. This will help narrow your requests for help and focus answers to a specific question. Anything past stock will certainly impact the aesthetics of the finished product

My personal opinion is that your assistance here is maximized if staying stock, but there are certainly enough people who have gone aftermarket. As far as connecting standards I am only aware of the Maestro data link system, which was recommended to me when I was looking at Pioneer and Kenwood units, this would retain my compatibility with other systems in my truck.

Next question is a DIN unit and what it looks like and your ease of use. Of course the screen is smaller but you could get a slide out screen to get more display surface area. Me personally, I hate adding more complexity as things can break. You could also choose the larger iPad-style units, but then you are again out of my realm of knowledge although there is a thread in that.

Good luck! Post a picture when you finish your work.

 

[Herb Tarlic]

So I've been doing lots of comparisons of specs between tranditional and android-based HUs. one common area of "deficiency" in the android-based units is pre-amp volts. traditional aftermarket offerings are 4-5 V whereas a lot of these android-based HUs I see on amazon and elsewhere are reporting 2 V and some reviews where the volts are actually tested show numbers like 1.5 V or 1 V or even .3 V. some of the reviewers suggest that this is an area where line drivers are actually an effective solution. anybody here want to comment on that?

bonus question: I've read that you should not make pre-amp voltage a specification requirement and instead should seek low impedance HUs. However, I don't see any impedence information provided in product specs or reviews....so how the heck am I supposed to get impedance info?!