Ribtipram
Senior Member
Does that year have a battery temp/current sensor?not sure if that would cause a growl
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With the engine running, carefully take your hand and feel all the wires from the battery and alternator that carry heavy current. Both positive and negative. Feel for any hot spots, bulges, etc. Also look at the red cables carefully to see if any of them are discolored in spots or sections. I have had 2 cases in my 40+ years working cars where a cable was fatigued by engine vibration. It looked good from the outside but the copper conductor inside was broken. When it was a ground cable it was cool near the battery and almost burned my hand when I got to the area where it was broken. The other case with the red cable, it was bright red up until the point it had a break and was a dark red around that point.
PS. they can test good with a meter when the engine is off but once the engine is running you get intermittent opens, high resistance and normal capacity randomly. Also have the battery tested. It may be only 3 months old but if it sat at or near 0 volts for even a short period of time, sulfation can short one or more cells.
PPS. You can also try bypassing all the ground cables with the black lead from a jumper cable by hooking one end to the battery negative post and the other end to the engine block or alternator bracket. If this works one of your ground cables is faulty.
Does that year have a battery temp/current sensor?not sure if that would cause a growl
is this it?https://www.delcity.net/store/ZCase-Fuses/p_809230Ok guys here we go!!!! As far as the battery temp sensor, I have one coming in tomorrow so I will swap that out BUT, in using CHRI5K's advice in inspecting the wires and using the jumper cables to test the grounds I noticed the 180a fuse on the positive battery terminal was blown. I fell sooooooooo dumb for overlooking this. I was positive that I had made sure this fuse was not blown. So Im assuming that this is the root of the problem. This would explain the loud noise coming from the alternator when I would field test, the charge is just sitting in the cable going no where. Now my problem is finding that fuse. Ive been searching and I can seem to find it anywhere.
Ok guys here we go!!!! As far as the battery temp sensor, I have one coming in tomorrow so I will swap that out BUT, in using CHRI5K's advice in inspecting the wires and using the jumper cables to test the grounds I noticed the 180a fuse on the positive battery terminal was blown. I fell sooooooooo dumb for overlooking this. I was positive that I had made sure this fuse was not blown. So Im assuming that this is the root of the problem. This would explain the loud noise coming from the alternator when I would field test, the charge is just sitting in the cable going no where. Now my problem is finding that fuse. Ive been searching and I can seem to find it anywhere.
No light is on, CEL is on with accessory but after the truck starts there are no lights. I have and extra ECU and same problem. Wonder if it has something to do with battery saver mode, it was on last week while I was having the other issue previously posted.Yeah abs wheel speed, active grille shutters, canbus stuff. Are the codes current and setting off a Mil light?
Nothing to worry about then just keep keepin on. [emoji106]No light is on, CEL is on with accessory but after the truck starts there are no lights. I have and extra ECU and same problem
Ok, but will my connect turn back on after a drive cycle??Nothing to worry about then just keep keepin on. [emoji106]
Got it!!!, after some research online, I found there is an inline fuse by the wire harness behind the battery. 20amp micro fuse was blown. Thanks!!!You have no siganal at all? Try pressing driver side hot and cold selector at the same time. U connect should pop a menu up. If it doesn't I'd check fuses (if it has one) and go from there.