Bad wheel bearing?

[14RamMan]

Ive started hearing what sounds like faint grinding from my front driver side wheel. It becomes a little louder when i steer the truck to the left, and gets a bit quieter when i steer to the right. Any thoughts on what this might be?

 

[jljbtm]

If you have an infrared thermometer use it on all four rotors when you get out of the truck the hot one is usually the bad bearing or caliper hanging up

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Dinky]

Double foot the gas and brake. Hold light pressure on the brakes when turning. The brake pads will keep things inline the sound should go away or lessen. This will help identify if it is a wheel bearing. Also jack the tire off the ground you should have no movement in the tire up and down.

 

[22hemi13]

Just jack it up and check the wheel. It’s a super fast diagnosis.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Ive started hearing what sounds like faint grinding from my front driver side wheel. It becomes a little louder when i steer the truck to the left, and gets a bit quieter when i steer to the right. Any thoughts on what this might be?

Mine was a bad wheel hub that was causing the same problems as you described.

 

[Dorser]

Is the hub/bearing difficult to replace?

 

[sbarron]

Is the hub/bearing difficult to replace?

Nope. hardest part can be the strut bolts being rusty, and you MAY need to loosen a ball joint to get a real tool on them.

IF I remember correctly. lol

It was actually a pretty easy job

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Took me 2 hrs from start to finish
This is on a 2wd only.

4x4 installs are slightly different. You have to remove these stupid axles that get in the way.


Break the lugs loose.
Lift the truck.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the two 13mm brake caliper bolts.
Remove the cap on the master cyl.
Use a pry bar to depress the two caliper pistons. Remove caliper but don't let it hang.
Remove the two bolts holding on the caliper bracket and remove.
Use your choice of hammer to loosen the rotor free. (If you're reusing the rotor don't damage it with the hammer or mallet)
Remove the wheel sensor and uninstall front the spindle.
3 bolts hold the wheel hub assembly in place. Once removed get your hammer again to remove.
Before installing the new assembly make sure you take a wire brush and clean the spindle really well.
Now reassemble the wheel hub assembly torquing to120ish ftlbs. I say ish because I've found multiple tq specs depending on OEM or aftermarket parts. Use your best judgement. The brake caliper bracket also torques to 120 ish ftlbs.
The brake bolts in the caliper torque to 25ish
Reinstall the wheel sensor.
Bolt the wheel back on to 130ftlbs
Make sure to reinstall your brake cap.
Pump the brakes to engage the caliper.
Bleed the system if need.
Enjoy the $200+ install dollars you just saved if you have the tools to do it.

 

[FF1899]

Took me 2 hrs from start to finish
This is on a 2wd only.

4x4 installs are slightly different. You have to remove these stupid axles that get in the way.


Break the lugs loose.
Lift the truck.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the two 13mm brake caliper bolts.
Remove the cap on the master cyl.
Use a pry bar to depress the two caliper pistons. Remove caliper but don't let it hang.
Remove the two bolts holding on the caliper bracket and remove.
Use your choice of hammer to loosen the rotor free. (If you're reusing the rotor don't damage it with the hammer or mallet)
Remove the wheel sensor and uninstall front the spindle.
3 bolts hold the wheel hub assembly in place. Once removed get your hammer again to remove.
Before installing the new assembly make sure you take a wire brush and clean the spindle really well.
Now reassemble the wheel hub assembly torquing to120ish ftlbs. I say ish because I've found multiple tq specs depending on OEM or aftermarket parts. Use your best judgement. The brake caliper bracket also torques to 120 ish ftlbs.
The brake bolts in the caliper torque to 25ish
Reinstall the wheel sensor.
Bolt the wheel back on to 130ftlbs
Make sure to reinstall your brake cap.
Pump the brakes to engage the caliper.
Bleed the system if need.
Enjoy the $200+ install dollars you just saved if you have the tools to do it.

No need. Remove the axle nut tap back the shaft so you can fit a short socket and extension on the bold. Remove all 3 bolts air hammer on the side of the bearing spinning the entire mounting flange typically it will fall out if it doesn't once you spin it so an ear is sticking out tap the ear out with the air hammer. Clean the surface with a soft pad on a grinder install new bearings and make sure you torque the shaft nut properly so you dont cause premature bearing failure and reassemble breaks. 30 min job with hand tools 10 to 15 on air and done.

 

[TigreST]

........... install new bearings and make sure you torque the shaft nut properly so you dont cause premature bearing failure ............... .

That torque setting is key to bearing life. Co-worker had his GM product front bearing done 8 months ago. Suffered major failure coming home two weeks ago. The "on road" repair guy said..."Yep looks like they used an impact driver on the axle shaft nuts....that's a no no. It brings on bearing failure." Now that's just one guy...but it sort of makes sense to me.

T.

 

[FF1899]

That torque setting is key to bearing life. Co-worker had his GM product front bearing done 8 months ago. Suffered major failure coming home two weeks ago. The "on road" repair guy said..."Yep looks like they used an impact driver on the axle shaft nuts....that's a no no. It brings on bearing failure." Now that's just one guy...but it sort of makes sense to me.

T.

Seen it all the time on customers cars and learned very fast a long time ago on my own personal vehicles. It's a simple extra walk to the tool box that will save you the time and work later even if your bearings are warranted out. Just torque it!

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Seen it all the time on customers cars and learned very fast a long time ago on my own personal vehicles. It's a simple extra walk to the tool box that will save you the time and work later even if your bearings are warranted out. Just torque it!

Axle nuts are torqued to 180ft lbs?

 

[FF1899]

185 ft/lb

 

[Inside Man]

If it gets louder while turning the wheel to the left its gonna be the passenger side because of the weight transfer.

The body rolls to the right on a left hand turn putting more weight on the passenger side bearing making it louder.

When turning right it lightens the load on the right side bearing which will quiet it down.

 

[TommyTwoRams]

Yes absolutely it does. Any time you have a bearing that carries a load (especially on a front steer) you ABSOLUTELY need to torque EVERYTHING to spec. If you want your repair and parts to last just download a PDF of a repair/maintenance manual for you particular make model and year. It’s money well spent because it might save ya some dollahs and a **** ton of time. Peace all my Ram brothers