Ball Joint Failure

[Scuba2000]

Pre-Wuhan Flu my truck had a catastrophic lower ball joint failure that cascaded. Luckily I had just arrived home and was parking when my driver side wheel decided to basically come off. Has this happened to anyone else?

I ended up having to replace the upper and lower control arms, inner & outer tie rod ends, sway bar links, and CV shaft. I decided to just upgrade both driver and passenger side suspension parts and be done with it. I went with Moog problem solver upper and lower control arms with ball joints, Moog tie rod ends and sway bar links, Moog struts, and a Cardone CV axle.

She is up and running again and feels a lot smoother now. No noise coming from the front end now. Just curious what you guys think about these parts and if anyone else has experienced something similar. Should I also have upgraded the wheel bearings when it was getting done?

Next mod will be ARH long tube headers and probably Borla exhaust. I read the thread on Ramither's install adventure, and look forward to having one similar. Does someone have the Lokar drawing to send in for the custom 31 in dipstick? I have the HP tuner on its way as well.

 

[Burla]

I do believe your year is when fca used a janky control arm, most guys have gone with zone, and yes those control arms cause the ball joints to go out early. But it sounds you went overboard, all should be good now. Is it lifted or leveled? That is usually when the ball joints fail, but your truck is getting old even if there wasn't any issues sometimes ball joints will fail. Never heard of the tire coming off, but hey you should be good to go.

 

[Scuba2000]

Truck is not leveled or lifted. The truck is new to me (November) and for a 2014 has low mileage (74,000). Anything else I should be looking to do maintenance wise?

I am waiting on a new Dorman transmission pan to arrive with replaceable filter to perform that maintenance. Other simple maintenance items that I am waiting on parts to arrive is to add a catch can, change the oil, and change the spark plugs. Based on advice I read here I ordered the NGK iridium plugs and of course the gearwrench spark plug remover to get the back ones.

Living in Italy it is not easy to walk out and find parts for the RAM......and if you do the price is ridiculous. Glad I have access to the military mail system.

 

[Burla]

It sounds like you have the 8 speed? If you search 2014 ram owners manual through in the name Canada, I guess the nucks force the manuals to be free online, dunno. Works for me. You will see all the maintenance items, I'd do pcv for sure. There are some vids online to test coil packs, probably all good with those miles, but you truly never know.

 

[Scuba2000]

I do have the 8 speed tranny. Could tell it needed some love because you can feel it shift into a lower gear when you decide to add some pedal power. Temp runs fine and it shifts just fine normally. I like AMSOIL so I am switching the fluid (tranny and oil) to them.

I am just a little wary now that the driver side wheel popped off. Luckily the guy I bought it from paid for labor and I paid for the new parts. Figure its time to change what I can and tune it for better performance.

Burla you mentioned testing the coil packs. I was looking at the MSD ignition coil packs, but they are pretty damn expensive. Any thoughts on aftermarket upgrades or just stick with OEM?

 

[Burla]

I don't know much about coil upgrades, maybe someone will chime in. I'm the type of guy that would wait til they fail, but you can test them since you will be pulling them anyhow. I think voltage meter is all you need.

Sean from his ecodiesel channel has some real good video's on 8 speed flushes, check out his channel. I know he likes Amsoil as well, he went to a cheaper fluid and changed it more often, but I'd prefer Amsoil myself to that strategy. Changing the 8 speed fluid is a **** all thing to do, you need to follow every step perfectly, the fluid has to be at a certain temp, the truck needs to be jacked right etc. Motor city mechanic has a two part vid on it as well. Get all of the info before you flush would be the way to go. If you have any questions on that after looking into it, dont hesitate to ask more about it.

 

[Wild one]

I do have the 8 speed tranny. Could tell it needed some love because you can feel it shift into a lower gear when you decide to add some pedal power. Temp runs fine and it shifts just fine normally. I like AMSOIL so I am switching the fluid (tranny and oil) to them.

I am just a little wary now that the driver side wheel popped off. Luckily the guy I bought it from paid for labor and I paid for the new parts. Figure its time to change what I can and tune it for better performance.

Burla you mentioned testing the coil packs. I was looking at the MSD ignition coil packs, but they are pretty damn expensive. Any thoughts on aftermarket upgrades or just stick with OEM?

Your stock 2014 coil packs are better then the MSD coil packs,when they went to iridium plugs the coil packs got upgraded with more windings,lots of guys are pulling over a 1,000rwhp with the stock coil packs.
Stick with the Mopar 8/9 speed fluid,a few tuners are starting to notice tranny slip in the higher horsepower builds using the aftermarket fluids,yea it's pricey,but it's a fluck of a lot cheaper then cooking the 8 speed and buying a new one,they aren't cheap,been there/done that,lol. PPE makes a good pan for the 8 speed if you really want to upgrade the tranny pan to one that holds a little more fluid and is internally and externally finned to help with cooling.Throw a 180 thermostat in it,if you haven't already,and no you don't need to be tuned to run a 180 T-stat,you will want to tune it when you install the ARH's to get the most out of them.

https://www.ppediesel.com/shop/heavy-duty-aluminum-transmission-pan-ram-1500-brushed-228053010.html

 

[Scuba2000]

I watched this video on it:

That pump used in the video you posted looks way easier. $40 bucks for it.......yet looks like a simple make it yourself project.

Thanks.

 

[Scuba2000]

Your stock 2014 coil packs are better then the MSD coil packs,when they went to iridium plugs the coil packs got upgraded with more windings,lots of guys are pulling over a 1,000rwhp with the stock coil packs.
Stick with the Mopar 8/9 speed fluid,a few tuners are starting to notice tranny slip in the higher horsepower builds using the aftermarket fluids,yea it's pricey,but it's a fluck of a lot cheaper then cooking the 8 speed and buying a new one,they aren't cheap,been there/done that,lol. PPE makes a good pan for the 8 speed if you really want to upgrade the tranny pan to one that holds a little more fluid and is internally and externally finned to help with cooling.Throw a 180 thermostat in it,if you haven't already,and no you don't need to be tuned to run a 180 T-stat,you will want to tune it when you install the ARH's to get the most out of them.

https://www.ppediesel.com/shop/heavy-duty-aluminum-transmission-pan-ram-1500-brushed-228053010.html

You just made me cancel my order for the Dorman plastic replacement tranny pan. This looks 100 times better. I was looking for something stronger than plastic and hadn't found anything. Thanks!
I had read something about the OEM coil packs being better. Looks like I can save some money on it. Has the 180 thermostat made a big difference? I watched some Tube that showed the system cycling between 185 and 204 degrees constantly due to the system setup.

 

[Wild one]

You just made me cancel my order for the Dorman plastic replacement tranny pan. This looks 100 times better. I was looking for something stronger than plastic and hadn't found anything. Thanks!
I had read something about the OEM coil packs being better. Looks like I can save some money on it. Has the 180 thermostat made a big difference? I watched some Tube that showed the system cycling between 185 and 204 degrees constantly due to the system setup.

The 180 T-stat worke better if you also do a shutter delete,which can be done when you tune it.A temporary bypass around the shutters is to pop out the center slats,just leave the upper and lower slat in place on both sides,that'll keep the putor happy and thinking they are still in place.If you still have the stock mechanical fan in place the temps won't fluctuate that much,if you're running with a deleted mechanical fan,then keep the heater controls on defrost or have the A/C on.With the heater controls on defrost the low speed side of the electric fan should be on,with A/C on it'll run the e-fan on the high speed circuit. The PPE pan might require a bit of cross over mid pipe tweaking to clear your stock exhaust,it will clear most aftermarket header cross overs easily though,just the stock mid pipe will need a bit of tweaking

 

[Wild one]

I watched this video on it:

That pump used in the video you posted looks way easier. $40 bucks for it.......yet looks like a simple make it yourself project.

Thanks.

Johns video is very good,but he misses one very important part ,and that's jack the rear of the truck up till the pan rail is level front to rear,and side to side.It's a very important step, otherwise you won't get the proper fluid level reading at the fill plug.

 

[Scuba2000]

Just ordered the PPE tranny pan. Good customer service and even had a military/veteran discount. I figured with the deeper pan it would require some tweaking with the exhaust seeing how close the OEM is to it. Thanks for info on jacking the rear of the truck. i will remember to do so when I change the pan and fluid.

New Nightmare is the damn CV band came off my new CV axle and I don't have the tools to replace it. I went out to check the truck as the wife has to drive to Rome tomorrow for a medical appointment and next thing you know jack stands, tire off, and several sailor words were uttered. Off to the local mechanic tomorrow morning to have him hopefully get this fixed since I cant. I really hate the damn Wuhan Flu shutdown Italy is under.

 

[Burla]

So I'd ask why did it come off? The new setup has more travel? It is still factory level? It came off when you drove it? I'd look into this hard if you drove and it came off, means something aint right downhill. Hard to believe, but it's possible.

 

[Burla]

You just made me cancel my order for the Dorman plastic replacement tranny pan. This looks 100 times better. I was looking for something stronger than plastic and hadn't found anything. Thanks!
I had read something about the OEM coil packs being better. Looks like I can save some money on it. Has the 180 thermostat made a big difference? I watched some Tube that showed the system cycling between 185 and 204 degrees constantly due to the system setup.

Glad you did that, I didnt want to mention it but those Dormans are junk and too many levels to mention. I thought you already had it.

 

[Scuba2000]

So I'd ask why did it come off? The new setup has more travel? It is still factory level? It came off when you drove it? I'd look into this hard if you drove and it came off, means something aint right downhill. Hard to believe, but it's possible.

I don't know why the band came off on the wheel bearing side of the CV axle. I have only done minor daily driving after picking it up and having the camber, alignment, and balancing done on the front wheels. The boot looks fine just a **** ton of the grease has come out and spread itself around. There has been no noise and there is the same travel as before. I am going to have the mechanic take a look this morning since I don't have the area at my house to work on it to get at the CV axle. Hopefully everything is just good and it was a ****** band.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I do believe your year is when fca used a janky control arm, most guys have gone with zone, and yes those control arms cause the ball joints to go out early. But it sounds you went overboard, all should be good now. Is it lifted or leveled? That is usually when the ball joints fail, but your truck is getting old even if there wasn't any issues sometimes ball joints will fail. Never heard of the tire coming off, but hey you should be good to go.

That truck is anything BUT old!