Bent springs and misaligned rear axle

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Alejandro Strawn

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I have a 2016 Outdoorsman with a 6” RC spacer lift. I towed my brothers camper last week and, while changing out my breaks, I saw that my springs were bent and my rear axle looks like it’s rotated to the rear too far (see photo).

I’m taking this as an opportunity to swap out the stock springs and RC block with a full-length spring and add airbags to help with towing. I don’t know if the axle is misaligned because of the bent spring or if I should update my LCA/UCAs to adjustable ones to correct the rear axle.

Questions for the forum:
1. What springs should I get so as to be able to forego the RC spacer?

2. Would adjustable LCA/UCAs correct my problem? If adjustable LCAs and/or UCAs would help with my rear axle positioning problem, which ones would you recommend?

3. Since I’m upgrading everything else, I’m looking at new shocks, too. Any suggestions for someone who spends 90% street / 10% off-road?

Thanks in advance!

1FA3DE24-C123-4DD2-839A-E39927D561A6.jpeg
 
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crazykid1994

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That’s bad. They’re bent because of bad angles from the control arms twisting the axle up. Get adjustable and shorten the top and lengthen the bottom slightly or get the procomp rear box kit and use their rear control arm drop brackets. The upper control arm in your picture is not stock so I can not be sure it’s stock length. You could measure center of bolt to bolt.
 

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I have a 2016 Outdoorsman with a 6” RC spacer lift. I towed my brothers camper last week and, while changing out my breaks, I saw that my springs were bent and my rear axle looks like it’s rotated to the rear too far (see photo).

I’m taking this as an opportunity to swap out the stock springs and RC block with a full-length spring and add airbags to help with towing. I don’t know if the axle is misaligned because of the bent spring or if I should update my LCA/UCAs to adjustable ones to correct the rear axle.

Questions for the forum:
1. What springs should I get so as to be able to forego the RC spacer?

2. Would adjustable LCA/UCAs correct my problem? If adjustable LCAs and/or UCAs would help with my rear axle positioning problem, which ones would you recommend?

3. Since I’m upgrading everything else, I’m looking at new shocks, too. Any suggestions for someone who spends 90% street / 10% off-road?

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 235237
Can you put up more pictures one from this angle
4851A47D-92CF-4F69-8E89-C8754AC041B7.jpeg 86E84BA0-0500-4D02-97F8-F4A97B2AE3E3.jpeg
 

Quick_Shifter

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I would also like to extend an invitation to all the rough country believers out there that say rough country never has issues and their products are a great budget option. I fix stuff like this a lot and it can get pricey putting the repair costs above the price of a zone, bds, procomp, kit etc.
@Alejandro Strawn post some more pictures at different angles and I’ll help you get what you need. @Nick@GotExhaust can set you up with the parts and new Fox shocks once we figure out the actual problem. It could be 3 things that I can’t rule out from one picture
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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As @Quick_Shifter mentioned it could be a number of things. Provide the pics that he requested and it will shed some light on the subject. I do wonder it those rear upper control arms are too long
 

VelocityC6Z

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The upper control arms don't look factory, as the factory are supposed to be boxed like the bottom ones are in the picture. Are both of your upper control arms the same? It just looked twisted in a weird way... And I can't imagine towing doing that unless things aren't symmetrical?

I would certainly say that the top control arms are too long. You could get away with just buying top control arms and shortening them if you're trying to save money. Clayton makes adjustable upper control arms, and they would at least be boxed like your lower control arms. Or you could go the distance and buy both, the lower control arm typically makes the most impact when upgrading them.

I'm also curious if your spring is bent left to right? Maybe your rear end isn't centered either? There are adjustable panhard bars for that.

If you can buy the zone 5" rear springs separately, and some fox rear shocks that will significantly improve the ride and get rid of that rear spacer. If you're looking to replace the fronts, fox also makes those so you can eliminate the front spacer. I know on the fox equipment, Nick@GotExhaust should be able to cover you with excellent prices there.
 
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Alejandro Strawn

Alejandro Strawn

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Attached are some more pictures of the rear end.

I was looking at Skyjacker 4.5" Softride Springs and Core 4x4 Adjustable Rear UCA/LCA Set. I don't tow much, but I push the limits of the tow rating when I do and want to slide some air bags in the springs to assist.

I do like the idea of getting rid of the spacer in the front, too, and going with a new strut set but I'll have to see what the rear end is going to run me, first.

Let me know if anyone needs any additional photos!

Thanks, everyone, for your recommendations and advice!

IMG_0411.jpeg IMG_0409.jpeg IMG_0408.jpeg IMG_0410.jpeg IMG_0407.jpeg
 

RedSRT4Me

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I have a 2016 Outdoorsman with a 6” RC spacer lift. I towed my brothers camper last week and, while changing out my breaks, I saw that my springs were bent and my rear axle looks like it’s rotated to the rear too far (see photo).

I’m taking this as an opportunity to swap out the stock springs and RC block with a full-length spring and add airbags to help with towing. I don’t know if the axle is misaligned because of the bent spring or if I should update my LCA/UCAs to adjustable ones to correct the rear axle.

Questions for the forum:
1. What springs should I get so as to be able to forego the RC spacer?

2. Would adjustable LCA/UCAs correct my problem? If adjustable LCAs and/or UCAs would help with my rear axle positioning problem, which ones would you recommend?

3. Since I’m upgrading everything else, I’m looking at new shocks, too. Any suggestions for someone who spends 90% street / 10% off-road?

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 235237

Get Core 4x4 tier 3 5-Link suspension plus new springs. Fix all that right up.
 

Quick_Shifter

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Older trucks have tube style rear control arms (just for clarification) I don’t remember what year they went boxed
 

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@Alejandro Strawn the good news is your rear axle is not twisted or rolled. (You do not need control arms) The down side is rough country doesn’t do the necessary geometry changes needed to keep the rear suspension functioning as it should.
How heavy was the trailer you towed? I’ll do a little reading for you (I have to for every rough country kit because they are crappy lifts) it’s one thing to make a cost effective lift it’s another to cut corners to achieve the budget price. Sorry it just upsets me, Still waiting for the rough country guys to tell me how great their experiences are/were as they do in all things when I speak negatively towards it like I don’t have a reason
 

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Also post your year make, model and engine and drive 2wd or 4wd please
 

ram1500rsm

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I think the OP has the 6" RC kit with the rear upper UCA's so prob why the uppers seem different. they're tubular arms in that kit. He's got a relo bracket, the bowed rear springs are not exactly a concern, but it can be improved.

OP, can you measure you rear UCA's from middle of the bolt to middle of the bolt? stockers should be 16.375, don't know what the lenght on the RC are in the 6" kit.

Have you measured your rear axel shift ? you may need to add an adjustable tracbar and make your bar longer, though since you have a relo tb braket you just need to measure the shift and that will you exactly how to adjust the trackbar. the bracket should have accounted for most of the shift, but thats why we shift. the bow in your springs is removing a little lift from your rear so the TB relo bracket may be overcompensating.

Also, from the pics we can't see your rear diff pinion angle, take a pic from this angle more or less to see how it looks.
50879381871_d87ef55aa1_k.jpg2021-01-26_03-51-32 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

What's your height from ground to fender edge, and with what tire size ?
 
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Quick_Shifter

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@Alejandro Strawn give me a better picture or both sides of the upper control arms (where it bolts to the frame and where it bolts to the rear) just need to confirm the relocation bracket is installed
 

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I think the OP has the 6" RC kit with the rear upper UCA's so prob why the uppers seem different. they're turbular arms in that kit. He's got a relo bracket, the bowed rear springs are not exactly a concern, but it can be improved.

OP, can you measure you rear UCA's from middle of the bolt to middle of the bolt? stockers should be 16.375, don't know what the lenght on the RC are in the 6" kit.

Have you measured your rear axel shift ? you may need to add an adjustable tracbar and make your bar longer, though since you have a relo tb braket you just need to measure the shift and that will you exactly how to adjust the trackbar. the bracket should have accounted for most of the shift, but thats why we shift. the bow in your springs is removing a little lift from your rear so the TB relo bracket may be overcompensating.

Also, from the pics we can't see your rear diff pinion angle, take a pic from this angle more or less to see how it looks.
50879381871_d87ef55aa1_k.jpg2021-01-26_03-51-32 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

What's your height from ground to fender edge, and with what tire size ?

that would make sense I wasn’t aware they had a kit with replacement control arms
 

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upload_2021-1-26_19-13-0.jpeg
i think this picture gives the answers @ram1500rsm hit the nail on the head with panhand (track bar) length. When it’s squatted with weight it’s pushing the rear to the side (push and pull) instead of being the fulcrum centering bar
 
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Alejandro Strawn

Alejandro Strawn

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@Quick_Shifter I've got a 2016 with the 3.0L EcoDiesel and four wheel drive. I probably overloaded my springs towing my brother's toy-hauler... Unfortunately, I don't know the tongue or curb weight of the trailer, but that @ss dropped down pretty low once trailer was hooked up. #nogooddeedgoesunpunished

@ram1500rsm I'll get the UCA length measurement and diff angle for you once the sun comes back up in the morning. I'll also measure out my ground height to the fender edge... And she's rolling on 37s.
 

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@Quick_Shifter I've got a 2016 with the 3.0L EcoDiesel and four wheel drive. I probably overloaded my springs towing my brother's toy-hauler... Unfortunately, I don't know the tongue or curb weight of the trailer, but that @ss dropped down pretty low once trailer was hooked up. #nogooddeedgoesunpunished

@ram1500rsm I'll get the UCA length measurement and diff angle for you once the sun comes back up in the morning. I'll also measure out my ground height to the fender edge... And she's rolling on 37s.

Thank you. Do you know what kit you have because rough country 33231 says it’s not made for eco diesel just for my own knowledge I’m curious of the kit you have
 
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Alejandro Strawn

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Thank you. Do you know what kit you have because rough country 33231 says it’s not made for eco diesel just for my own knowledge I’m curious of the kit you have

It's the 324S... Retailed somewhere around $1,400 back in 2016. It looks like the kit came with UCAs and was compatible with EcoDiesels. So if this kit came with UCAs, that should mean that with new springs, my axle should be properly aligned, right?

Screen Shot 2021-01-27 at 12.47.04 AM.png
 

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It's the 324S... Retailed somewhere around $1,400 back in 2016. It looks like the kit came with UCAs and was compatible with EcoDiesels. So if this kit came with UCAs, that should mean that with new springs, my axle should be properly aligned, right?

View attachment 235370
I can’t find it on rough countries website maybe it’s just me (I find it on other sites but I’d rather read from the source)
The track bar is the culprit in your situation the control arms are fine. The proper repair would be to change the whole kit out but I doubt you’re interested in spending that and just want to get by with it. The quick and easy fix is an adjustable control arms and pan hard bar to center your axle. (It probably is centered at ride height) I would also get longer sway bar endlinks for the back. Your sway bar is supposed to be parallel not angled up like that
 
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