Blackstone - used oil analysis

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Atl-atl

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Changed my oil last week and didnt realize i was out of containers from Blackstone. quickly grabbed a red solo cup :Big Laugh: to grab a little oil. Promptly ordered some more containers from Blackstone but the oil has now been sitting in my shop for a few days. Can I still send in that oil or will the analysis be off since it sat open to the air for a while?
 

Burla

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You'll be fine if it is clean and covered, there is plenty of air in your sump, so air isn't the issue.
 

Burla

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Perfect report, and interesting. It could be the engine time or engine was worked a little harder to why the iron went up a little, but mind you this is super low iron for a hemi anyhow. But the interesting theory would be that the extra aw/EP additives the run before was protecting the iron a little better, as you see when you take away some aw/EP additives the copper went down, this is a known thing. If some day you went and tried the other oil that was run before, it wouldn't really prove anything but might hint at it. Kind of like pick your higher wear number copper or iron between two products in the same brand.... in theory.
 

Burla

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What were the 5 oils in that uoa if you can? Looks like your aluminum likes that HPL.
 

TC

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What were the 5 oils in that uoa if you can? Looks like your aluminum likes that HPL.


First run Sample Date 7/21/24 PUP 5W30 + Lubegard
Second run - VRP 5W30
Third run - VRP 5W30
Fourth run - HPL PCMO 5W30
Last run - HPL PCMO 5W30

Currently running - HPL SC 0W30 primarily due to @HEMIMANN pointing out viscosity shear over time with the PCMO. Also picked it up on Black Friday sale :)
 

Burla

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First run Sample Date 7/21/24 PUP 5W30 + Lubegard
Second run - VRP 5W30
Third run - VRP 5W30
Fourth run - HPL PCMO 5W30
Last run - HPL PCMO 5W30

Currently running - HPL SC 0W30 primarily due to @HEMIMANN pointing out viscosity shear over time with the PCMO. Also picked it up on Black Friday sale :)
Last two runs were the same oil or was that a mis type? 0w30 last time?

That is hella interesting 3 runs vrp and you can see the increased wear alum and copper with that product.

Interesting the lowest iron wear was the run after the biotech but then went back, and not the current biotech run. Possible theory that run still had some plating going on from the biotech run, but the actual biotech run didn't present because it takes time to plate, by the third vrp run "perhaps" the plate from the biotech run was washed off. Yes this would be not even a theory but a possible theory, as it does make sense with the current knowledge in syn thread. Of course it could mean nothing, but awful interesting that 4 iron wear. I cant wait to see the 0w30 SC as I believe it to have esters like biotech, lets see how iron wear is effected, maybe if will take another run after, so if you are going to keep running uoa's, you might want to commit to the 0w30 SC for at least 2 runs. Best oil on paper we know of that 0w30 SC.


.
 
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TC

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5W30 PCMO last two UOA's.

0W30 in sump
 

Burla

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Winter versus summer only difference between last two UOA runs.
Just a crazy difference in additives as if they went through a reformulation, I cant remember seeing a change like that except for when Amsoil went API.
 

Replacement

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Adding the UOA from our Ascent since there has been a lot of talk on twin turbo GDI engines.

IMG_7649.jpeg
 

Burla

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Adding the UOA from our Ascent since there has been a lot of talk on twin turbo GDI engines.

View attachment 579442
What a great report for a young engine, with no appreciable fuel dilution. What redline did you use? The CA/MAG levels are great for di turbo.

The tin is from the redline not the engine, known thing.

.
 

Burla

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You can see they changed the formula, our resource at redline is long gone, but it looks like that oil is very nice for di's and their old formula was more like their 5w30. It would be nice if they had their di formula separate, but we now know their 0w30 and 0w20 are great for di's and perhaps other engines as well, but especially di's.
 

Replacement

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I used this one. I have a 5w30 rotella multivehicle in it now. Was a little nervous about the thin oils and saw this had good results on the ascent forums. Engine definitely quieter now, no surprise. I had been using the redline in our odyssey until it was totaled. So i'll have to work in the rest of the stock now that i feel good about results.

IMG_7650.jpeg
 

HEMIMANN

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I'm kind of mystified why Red Line would be needed for a DI engine? Aren't lower cost oils sufficient?

I'm referring to our discussions about cleaning capability and higher viscosity for turbo DI's. Red Line ester keeps clean but does not clean. Hence Valvoline R&P and M1 ESP. Both cost far less than Red Line.
 

Burla

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I'd look up what makes a high performance engine, and match that to a high performance oil.
 

Burla

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I used this one. I have a 5w30 rotella multivehicle in it now. Was a little nervous about the thin oils and saw this had good results on the ascent forums. Engine definitely quieter now, no surprise. I had been using the redline in our odyssey until it was totaled. So i'll have to work in the rest of the stock now that i feel good about results.

View attachment 579444
Dave had told us the original redline reformulation for the di turbo was their 0w30, so for me I was surprised about the 0w20 also being for di's, though I guess I should have expected it, to me a pleasant surprise I had been asking for redline to make di oils ten years before they did. There are a couple clicks with redline usage such as hemi's and harley's but also BMW. And I'm sure they were pressured by that BMW crowd to make a super oil for a di turbo, as most 0w30's are really best effort oils for manu's. Literally every 0w30 is synthetic so that's a start, but if you looks at the euro 0w30's you see redline had to up it's game to be able to call themselves a high performance oils.

If I might be so bold I would suggest you look into all of the available 0w30's, anyone that previously was committed to redline it sounds like you don't mind spending good money on the best oil. M1 esp 0w30, redline 0w30, Valvoline euro are all good choices. Not sure I would use HPL 0w30 sc it has way too much calcium, which is why I would have preferred they used more mag then CA for the current modern di's. You do want moly as moly is a lspi quencher so decent moly, low CA and high visc in grade is what I'd be looking at first. A lot of voa's on the oil you have in there now has zero moly, hope that helped.
 
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