hodge-xj
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
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- Ram Year
- 2006
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- 5.9 cummins
So after researching wheels and tires etc for quite a while, I don't exactly need new wheels nor were they in the budget at the moment. I wasn't having clearance issues, I just wanted a bit of a wider stance for aesthetic reasons so wheel spacers were a perfect solution for what I was after.
I decided BORA 1.5" would be just about perfect for what I was after. They brought the wheels out just a bit beyond the fenders but aren't outlandish where I feel I'll need a set of flares. That being said, my mud flaps are going to be mostly pointless as my tires will kick crap up the side of the truck since the flaps don't cover the full tread . I mostly am running the flaps to prevent the underside of the rockers and floor boards to get packed with mud and kick anyway, as well as save drivers behind me from a majority of the crap coming off my tires. I use my truck, and it's white so it hides the scratches and **** well so I really don't mind.
Install is what you would expect, so I won't delve into a step by step, just want to highlight some things I had to do.
I'm running the oem 17x7 5 spoke aluminum wheels. Not sure of other wheels as I've seen some of the 20s don't require stud trimming since they have pockets on the back of the wheels, mind do, but they were too shallow to allow the wheel to seat properly.
I trimmed about 1/4" off all the studs, which didn't touch any threads. Just take the non threaded nub off the end of each stud. Make sure to spin the nuts provided for the spacers on before trimming just to be safe, that way they chase and clean the threads in case there's a bit that would prevent the nut from spinning on easily. MAKE SURE TO REMOVE CALIPER RETAINING WASHERS! This is a normal oversight and those stupid little things won't allow the spacer to seat flush against the rotor and hub. I used blue loctite on the spacers to ensure they don't loosen and I'll check them periodically. I've lost a wheel before and it's 100% not fun.
I've gotta say these boras are beautiful units and well worth the cost. Nice finish, perfectly machined and a good snug fit both against the hub and when mounting the wheel. HUBCENTRICS ARE A MUST WHEN RUNNING SPACERS. Cheap knock offs that aren't hubcentric are why spacers got a bad wrap. Studs are hardened steel and are brittle, when exposed to shear loads they snap. Studs are designed to be used in tension, to retain the wheel, and the hub supports the load of the vehicle.
Side note if you've got a spare 40$ I got this sweet little floor ******** Amazon. It's a bottle Jack/Jack stand unit with a wide base. I'll be buying another as it's way more comfortable working under the truck supported by this thing. Jack it up till the safety latches engage at desired height and the truck was stable as can be on my uneven driveway. Best 40$ I've spent on the truck yet!!!
Now for pics. If anyone has any questions I'll be happy to answer specifics in detail.














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I decided BORA 1.5" would be just about perfect for what I was after. They brought the wheels out just a bit beyond the fenders but aren't outlandish where I feel I'll need a set of flares. That being said, my mud flaps are going to be mostly pointless as my tires will kick crap up the side of the truck since the flaps don't cover the full tread . I mostly am running the flaps to prevent the underside of the rockers and floor boards to get packed with mud and kick anyway, as well as save drivers behind me from a majority of the crap coming off my tires. I use my truck, and it's white so it hides the scratches and **** well so I really don't mind.
Install is what you would expect, so I won't delve into a step by step, just want to highlight some things I had to do.
I'm running the oem 17x7 5 spoke aluminum wheels. Not sure of other wheels as I've seen some of the 20s don't require stud trimming since they have pockets on the back of the wheels, mind do, but they were too shallow to allow the wheel to seat properly.
I trimmed about 1/4" off all the studs, which didn't touch any threads. Just take the non threaded nub off the end of each stud. Make sure to spin the nuts provided for the spacers on before trimming just to be safe, that way they chase and clean the threads in case there's a bit that would prevent the nut from spinning on easily. MAKE SURE TO REMOVE CALIPER RETAINING WASHERS! This is a normal oversight and those stupid little things won't allow the spacer to seat flush against the rotor and hub. I used blue loctite on the spacers to ensure they don't loosen and I'll check them periodically. I've lost a wheel before and it's 100% not fun.
I've gotta say these boras are beautiful units and well worth the cost. Nice finish, perfectly machined and a good snug fit both against the hub and when mounting the wheel. HUBCENTRICS ARE A MUST WHEN RUNNING SPACERS. Cheap knock offs that aren't hubcentric are why spacers got a bad wrap. Studs are hardened steel and are brittle, when exposed to shear loads they snap. Studs are designed to be used in tension, to retain the wheel, and the hub supports the load of the vehicle.
Side note if you've got a spare 40$ I got this sweet little floor ******** Amazon. It's a bottle Jack/Jack stand unit with a wide base. I'll be buying another as it's way more comfortable working under the truck supported by this thing. Jack it up till the safety latches engage at desired height and the truck was stable as can be on my uneven driveway. Best 40$ I've spent on the truck yet!!!
Now for pics. If anyone has any questions I'll be happy to answer specifics in detail.















Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk








