Brake bleeding

[RAM0359]

Just replaced pads, rotors & calipers for front right and left. Back brake system is all original OEM. Siphoned most of the old brake fluid from the reservoir and put in fresh new dot 3 fluid. bled all four brakes until no more bubbles, pedal woul get hard but as soon as I close the bleeder valve the pedal goes to the floor again. What am I doing wrong. Since I didn't drain all the fluid I tried just bleeding the fronts and no pedal once I started the truck up. When that happened I also tried bleeding the backs with still the brake pedal to the floor.

 

[Tach_tech]

Are the calipers on the right sides with the bleeder up top?

 

[chris52010trx4]

Just replaced pads, rotors & calipers for front right and left. Back brake system is all original OEM. Siphoned most of the old brake fluid from the reservoir and put in fresh new dot 3 fluid. bled all four brakes until no more bubbles, pedal woul get hard but as soon as I close the bleeder valve the pedal goes to the floor again. What am I doing wrong. Since I didn't drain all the fluid I tried just bleeding the fronts and no pedal once I started the truck up. When that happened I also tried bleeding the backs with still the brake pedal to the floor.

Are you doing it correctly? (Not trying to be a ****)As in the 2 person method
1 pumps the brakes about 3 times and holds down on the third
2nd guy under truck cracks bleeder with a hose into abit of clean fluid and then closes bleeder before #1 releases the pedal

Also best to do all 4 from passenger rear first...

The pressure pump works good too if your Buddy or wife won't help. Been there done that too

Sent from my SM-G996W using Tapatalk

 

[chris1126]

Are you doing it correctly? (Not trying to be a ****)As in the 2 person method
1 pumps the brakes about 3 times and holds down on the third
2nd guy under truck cracks bleeder with a hose into abit of clean fluid and then closes bleeder before #1 releases the pedal

Also best to do all 4 from passenger rear first...

The pressure pump works good too if your Buddy or wife won't help. Been there done that too

Sent from my SM-G996W using Tapatalk

what he said

 

[Octane]

what he said

Just got to bleed bleed bleed!

 

[NJMOPAR]

I thought our trucks use DOT4 fluid, maybe that's the problem?

 

[chris1126]

a

Just got to bleed bleed bleed!

can also try bench bleeding

 

[GTyankee]

When you bleed the brakes the regular way

Then you need to reset the ABS system
You can use some scan tools that have the ABS reset function
That scan tool opens the ABS servo to get the air out of that part of the brake system
You may have to double check the regular brakes for more air after doing the ABS

 

[GTyankee]

another way of brake bleeding

 

[Octane]

I thought our trucks use DOT4 fluid, maybe that's the problem?

Dot three and dot 4 completely compatible. Wet boiling point is higher on Dot 4 though.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I thought our trucks use DOT4 fluid, maybe that's the problem?

My '17 2500 CCLB 6.4 calls for DOT3. That said, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are all compatible. They are all hygroscopic (they absorb water)

DOT4 has higher boiling points than DOT3 and also has a lower viscosity that makes it more desirable if the vehicle has ABS and Traction Control.

DOT 5.1 has higher boiling points than DOT4.

((DRY boiling point=new fluid from a sealed container;
WETboiling point=has absorbed some water)

NEVER, NEVER use DOT 5 in these trucks!!
It is silicone, therefore not hygroscopic. When water does enter the system (2% per year avg.) it will not mix with the silicone. If it pools near a caliper, under hard braking, the water could vaporize to steam, which is highly compressible, and could cause complete brake failure. Don't be that guy just because DOT5 has the highest boiling points.

 

[Octane]

My '17 2500 CCLB 6.4 calls for DOT3. That said, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are all compatible. They are all hygroscopic (they absorb water)

DOT4 has higher boiling points than DOT3 and also has a lower viscosity that makes it more desirable if the vehicle has ABS and Traction Control.

DOT 5.1 has higher boiling points than DOT4.

((DRY boiling point=new fluid from a sealed container;
WETboiling point=has absorbed some water)

NEVER, NEVER use DOT 5 in these trucks!!
It is silicone, therefore not hygroscopic. When water does enter the system (2% per year avg.) it will not mix with the silicone. If it pools near a caliper, under hard braking, the water could vaporize to steam, which is highly compressible, and could cause complete brake failure. Don't be that guy just because DOT5 has the highest boiling points.

And because of that water you speak of, your brake system can actually end up with more corrosion in it with dot 5 than dot 3 or 4.So, there will be moisture getting in the brake system even if the fluid is not the type that absorbs water as stated.

 

[RAM0359]

Thanks All appreciate it. Yep the son is helping. I did not do the ABS, wasn't aware I needed to but will look into it. I may have gotten air into the reservoir accidentally when I was suctioning the old stuff out not sure. I am going to bleed (bleed, bleed) them again until I get the new clear fluid all the way around. Of course that means another trip to pick some up. Thanks for the tips and suggestions!

 

[Octane]

I do know I replace my master cylinder, one caliper, the brake hose and section of brake line and the two rear wheel cylinders.I thought I would never get all the air out of that system. About the time I think I had the air out,more would seem to just magically appear.

 

[RAM0359]

Thanks, the son is helping, he may have not been working the brake pedal correctly (usually only hears what he wants ). I bleed until no bubbles but will bleed again.

 

[RAM0359]

Didn't think about the ABS. I will look into it. Thanks.

 

[RAM0359]

I've got a 2012 1500 4WD 5.7 and it calls for DOT 3.

 

[RAM0359]

1 thing of note for anyone that will need to change Calipers......
When you move the brake line connector from the old caliper to the new caliper, keep the old brass washers handy. At least with mine the new washers were a lot thinner than the OEM brass washers. After changing the front passengers side I could not get it to quit seeping fluid from where it contacted the caliper and you definitely don't want to over tighten that bolt. Just to try, I took it back off and put one of the old washers on the underside of the bolt and it fixed it. I'm not sure the new thinner washer was making a good seal.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

Thanks, the son is helping, he may have not been working the brake pedal correctly (usually only hears what he wants ). I bleed until no bubbles but will bleed again.

Taught my two boys the old shade tree mechanic way.

Pump it up...
Hold it down...

Pump it up....
Hold it down...

LOL! Worked for many years. Now, we have fancy pants brake systems that are far superior than what those old cars had.

 

[Burla]

There is air in the system, you can't do this with a kid unless the kid has patience. I would move to dot 4 and get new fluid.

The problem is once you get air in the abs system it is likely you will have to reset it at the dealer. You can try to flush again, but I'd make my wife help me rather then some kid, it might be too late anyhow. It is a simple thing to do, but unforgiving if you do it wrong with abs system. I have a brake bleeder but still do the soda pop method. I use a small bottle filled up just to make sure the hose stays in fluid. Just take your time, even two brake pumps then top off.