Brake Fluid Flush

[SETEX 6.4]

Well I flushed out the old brake fluid this weekend with Castrol DOT 4.
This is what I used.
Castrol 12614 Dot 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JMAKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T7.WBbPX8C03R
I went with DOT 4 just because it handles heat a little better than DOT 3 and they are both compatible.
I ordered 2 of these 32oz bottles. I'm glad I did because I used every bit of it.
I have a large vacuum pump that I used to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir.
After I did that it took a whole 32oz bottle to fill the reservoir back up.
From there I used a hand vacuum pump(harbor freight $24) at each brake caliper to suck the old fluid out untill new fluid started coming through.
It's amazing how dirty your brake fluid will get. My truck is 4.5 years old with 61,000 miles on it.
So over the course of bleeding the old fluid I went through the entire second 32 oz bottle of fluid and had just enough to top the reservoir off when I was done. Worked out perfect.
Anyway here are a couple pictures of old dark fluid and the fresh lighter fluid.
Hope this helps anyone that might be needing to do this.

2014 Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6.4 Hemi 4:10 Gears Ram Boxes 35x12.50R18 on Factory Wheels
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi395]

Yeah it's amazing how bad brake fluid gets fairly quickly. Probably the most overlooked fluid on a vehicle.

I did my truck at 4 years old it looked just like that. Going to start doing this every 2 years now, I really believe old brake fluid is a major factor in calipers going bad/seizing...

 

[SETEX 6.4]

I totally agree. Way overlooked by most. Most people just get new vehicles before they need major work done. lol

2014 Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6.4 Hemi 4:10 Gears Ram Boxes 35x12.50R18 on Factory Wheels
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi395]

A quality brake fluid is also a must if you plan on keeping the truck. DOT 4 or ultimately 5.1 is the way to go.

 

[atom13]

This remind to put a small sock over the brake fluid cap. I have always done this to seal the dirt from accumulating.

 

[HammerHead]

Well I flushed out the old brake fluid this weekend with Castrol DOT 4.
This is what I used.
Castrol 12614 Dot 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JMAKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T7.WBbPX8C03R
I went with DOT 4 just because it handles heat a little better than DOT 3 and they are both compatible.
I ordered 2 of these 32oz bottles. I'm glad I did because I used every bit of it.
I have a large vacuum pump that I used to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir.
After I did that it took a whole 32oz bottle to fill the reservoir back up.
From there I used a hand vacuum pump(harbor freight $24) at each brake caliper to suck the old fluid out untill new fluid started coming through.
It's amazing how dirty your brake fluid will get. My truck is 4.5 years old with 61,000 miles on it.
So over the course of bleeding the old fluid I went through the entire second 32 oz bottle of fluid and had just enough to top the reservoir off when I was done. Worked out perfect.
Anyway here are a couple pictures of old dark fluid and the fresh lighter fluid.
Hope this helps anyone that might be needing to do this.

2014 Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6.4 Hemi 4:10 Gears Ram Boxes 35x12.50R18 on Factory Wheels
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Can you please post a pic of that pump?

 

[huntergreen]

Yeah it's amazing how bad brake fluid gets fairly quickly. Probably the most overlooked fluid on a vehicle.

I did my truck at 4 years old it looked just like that. Going to start doing this every 2 years now, I really believe old brake fluid is a major factor in calipers going bad/seizing...

Interesting thought. I never made the connection between brake fluid and caliper issues.

 

[SETEX 6.4]

Can you please post a pic of that pump?

Here is the one I bought and used.
https://m.harborfreight.com/brake-b...t-69328.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided
It worked great. It was quite a forearm workout though.

2014 Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6.4 Hemi 4:10 Gears Ram Boxes 35x12.50R18 on Factory Wheels
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[SyN]

SETEX: I’ve used the same fluid in all the family autos for many years & never a issue.

Still debating on what to use with the JUDGE since heavy towing will be done in the future.
Really would like to make the switch to SS brake lines.

When I finally do make the switch over to SS brake lines I’m really looking at doing a complete switch over to the Red Line brake fluid.
Since this is as of right now —->going to be my last truck.

I will say: The last 20 some years or so , I have made a habit of every couple years sucking out all the old brake fluid in the reservoir and refilling with fresh brake fluid.
I know it’s not near as effective as a total flush.
It normally takes about half or 3/4 of bottle of Castrol & about 15min.

 

[BlackWidow]

I really believe old brake fluid is a major factor in calipers going bad/seizing...

I'm not saying your wrong, however I'm more inclined to think that a caliper seizing up has more to do with moisture getting the caliper slides and causing corrosion. At least that's an observation I made after doing a brake job on my Jeep last fall.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Yeah it's amazing how bad brake fluid gets fairly quickly. Probably the most overlooked fluid on a vehicle.

I did my truck at 4 years old it looked just like that. Going to start doing this every 2 years now, I really believe old brake fluid is a major factor in calipers going bad/seizing...

I've seen ABS hydraulic units fail from neglected fluid. Several of my customers over the years have not listened to my advice to flush the brake fluid and found out the expensive way. I bought my 2007 Kia Sorento last summer for 300 dollars because the brakes were downright dangerous and the lady bought a new Ford Escape. Dealer wanted 2 grand to fix. I bought a salvage unit for 50 dollars and rolled the dice. It has worked out great so far. I would never take that liability risk of installing a used safety item for a customer, though.

 

[RAZ175]

My brakes have been soft since I got the truck in January, requiring a double pump on the pedal to get a firm pedal. Decided to bleed and flush the system. First tested the brake fluid, and it showed over 4% moisture. Strange on a truck that's only four years old. I did an initial manual bleed followed by bleeding the ABS unit then another manual bleed. Not much air in the initial bleed, but on the bleed after the ABS unit there was huge amounts of air. Now I have a nice firm pedal and braking feels like it should. Used a Motive Products power bleeder and Motul 5.1 brake fluid.

 

[SeppW]

How did you activate the pistons in the ABS module to purge it?

 

[RAZ175]

How did you activate the pistons in the ABS module to purge it?

I used an app called Alfaobd with an Obdlink MX adapter. It cycles the ABS module several times while you step on the brake pedal. It also has you crack different bleeder screws during some of the tests.

 

[SeppW]

Interesting thought. I never made the connection between brake fluid and caliper issues.

DOT3,4, and 5.1 are highly hydroscopic. The general rule used to be flush every 2 years, but it's rarely even mentioned in any maintenance schedule nowadays. Never mix glycol-based with silicone-based.

 

[SeppW]

I used an app called Alfaobd with an Obdlink MX adapter. It cycles the ABS module several times while you step on the brake pedal. It also has you crack different bleeder screws during some of the tests.

I was hoping you were going to say that. I have one as well, but haven't played around with it yet. At first look, it's not very intuitive.

 

[RAZ175]

I was hoping you were going to say that. I have one as well, but haven't played around with it yet. At first look, it's not very intuitive.

It's pretty simple. Just select ABS module, then select ABS bleed procedure, hit start and follow the prompts.

 

[Sherman Bird]

How did you activate the pistons in the ABS module to purge it?

A simple way to purge the air in the ABS unit is to go drive the vehicle and SLAM the brakes on to activate the ABS function.... works every time. Sometimes, it's necessary to do it in reverse when you can't get the tires to release. (skid)

 

[huntergreen]

DOT3,4, and 5.1 are highly hydroscopic. The general rule used to be flush every 2 years, but it's rarely even mentioned in any maintenance schedule nowadays. Never mix glycol-based with silicone-based.

thanks for this.

 

[68PowerWagon]

A simple way to purge the air in the ABS unit is to go drive the vehicle and SLAM the brakes on to activate the ABS function.... works every time. Sometimes, it's necessary to do it in reverse when you can't get the tires to release. (skid)

Bet my wife's vehicle is airless. She is one of those who waits until the last second to apply the brakes. I on the other hand let the engine do at least 25% of the braking.