broke security lugs

[JcsMI]

How do I get a broken security lug out? Its the one that tanks a special long socket and its a long lug. It broke two. Theres about an inch of lig left in there. The security socket no longer fits. The propane torch keeps flaming out in the hole.

 

[rzr6-4]

Pics would help. Possibly a big drill if you can keep it centered.

 

[diymirage]

If you got a set of brass balls kicking around, you could just remove the other lug nuts on the wheel and go for a ride

 

[JcsMI]

Well one broke on the passenger front and the other on drivers front. I had the passenger front off two weeks ago but a shop tightened them after. Same shop did a brake inspection. They found seized calipers and said my rear pads had 2000 miles left. But when I went back they said they discovered all of this by looking through the rim. Is that possible to determine these things by looking through the wheel? I ask because my lugs and not all coming off. And I wonder if they did take all four off but tightened way too much. Not sure how I'm gonna get these off. Maybe I'll see if I can cut it with an air chisel. The drivers will let socket slip over the broken one but the passenger does not. But even then it still does not budge. I have been using Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster. The passenger side I got 7 off and the 8th broke. The drivers I got four off, one broke and three aren't moving. For whatever reason my Mapp Gas torch flames out when I put the flame on the lug in the hole. Still trying to get this onn. I have a new tire for the passenger front but the tire shop could not get the lugs all off. I have sprayed several times with liquid wrench. Now PB Blaster. But I need to get the broken ones off most.

 

[04fxdwgi]

What I have done before is find a socket that "almost" fits over the busted security lug nut then beat it on it with BFG. Then remove using a breaker bar, NOT an impact wrench/

 

[markabby]

What I have done before is find a socket that "almost" fits over the busted security lug nut then beat it on it with BFG. Then remove using a breaker bar, NOT an impact wrench/

and add a pipe to the breaker bar and hope for the best.

 

[turkeybird56]

Well one broke on the passenger front and the other on drivers front. I had the passenger front off two weeks ago but a shop tightened them after. Same shop did a brake inspection. They found seized calipers and said my rear pads had 2000 miles left. But when I went back they said they discovered all of this by looking through the rim. Is that possible to determine these things by looking through the wheel? I ask because my lugs and not all coming off. And I wonder if they did take all four off but tightened way too much. Not sure how I'm gonna get these off. Maybe I'll see if I can cut it with an air chisel. The drivers will let socket slip over the broken one but the passenger does not. But even then it still does not budge. I have been using Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster. The passenger side I got 7 off and the 8th broke. The drivers I got four off, one broke and three aren't moving. For whatever reason my Mapp Gas torch flames out when I put the flame on the lug in the hole. Still trying to get this onn. I have a new tire for the passenger front but the tire shop could not get the lugs all off. I have sprayed several times with liquid wrench. Now PB Blaster. But I need to get the broken ones off most.

IMHO, U need to find a new shop there ref brakes/tires. Posts #5 & 6 combined, may be your best choice. I have used a cold chisel and cut off locking lugs before, but that is a monster way to do and U also risk doing some damage, to the point of even having to replace the stud affected. U could also buy a HD nut splitter and attempt to split off the part still on there. U can torch those nuts all day, but unless U burn them off, U still have to get something on the part to remove. You might be able to go to an autoparts store and buy (1) BIG splitter instead of a set. TBH, for the price, I would just buy the set. Good luck.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com: DASBET 4PCS Metal Nut Splitter Set Heavy Duty Nut Splitter Kit Splitter Breaker Manual Pressure Nut Cracker Remover Extractor Tool Corroded Stuck Screw Nut Removal Splitting Tools : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: DASBET 4PCS Metal Nut Splitter Set Heavy Duty Nut Splitter Kit Splitter Breaker Manual Pressure Nut Cracker Remover Extractor Tool Corroded Stuck Screw Nut Removal Splitting Tools : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

 

[diymirage]

IMHO, U need to find a new shop there ref brakes/tires. Posts #5 & 6 combined, may be your best choice. I have used a cold chisel and cut off locking lugs before, but that is a monster way to do and U also risk doing some damage, to the point of even having to replace the stud affected. U could also buy a HD nut splitter and attempt to split off the part still on there. U can torch those nuts all day, but unless U burn them off, U still have to get something on the part to remove. You might be able to go to an autoparts store and buy (1) BIG splitter instead of a set. TBH, for the price, I would just buy the set. Good luck.

Amazon.com

View attachment 580950

Amazon.com: DASBET 4PCS Metal Nut Splitter Set Heavy Duty Nut Splitter Kit Splitter Breaker Manual Pressure Nut Cracker Remover Extractor Tool Corroded Stuck Screw Nut Removal Splitting Tools : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: DASBET 4PCS Metal Nut Splitter Set Heavy Duty Nut Splitter Kit Splitter Breaker Manual Pressure Nut Cracker Remover Extractor Tool Corroded Stuck Screw Nut Removal Splitting Tools : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

I cant see that tool working unless the lugnuts stick out

And if they do that...he would probably have steel rims and he wouldn't need security lugs

 

[62Blazer]

make locking lug nut removal sockets. They are pretty common. Harbor Freight sells a kit for $40ish. You could also call some local tire stores as many have experience with this, and typically have a set of the removal sockets on hand. See if they would be willing to take the one broken lug off.

 

[turkeybird56]

I cant see that took working unless the lugnuts stick out

And if they do that...he would probably have steel rims and he wouldn't need security lugs

Good catch had to think on it. Just another option. I chiseled a set off of a RAM and it took forever but eventually got them off.

The ole slightly smaller socket jammed onto nut had been used too. They got YouTube videos out on how to defeat a locking lug quick.

 

[Filthy Filbert]

Do not ever go back to that shop again. no, you cannot measure brake pad thickness by "looking through the wheel" If they did an honest brake inspection, then they must have cross threaded the nut going back on and kept on it with the impact till it was seated.

Can you access the head of the wheel stud from the back side? maybe grind off the head and punch the whole wheel stud out?

 

[Indynick]

I used an air chisel to remove locks that would not budge, even with the key. Had to do all four of them. You will need a high-quality air chisel, that will allow you to slow the hammers to just one or two at a time, to get a deep bite into the metal. A cheap air chisel will just be on or off.

After that, you can start looping around. I don't remember if I had to replace the studs.

 

[Ken226]

I hold a big steel nut over the locking lug nut with some pliers, then mig weld the center of the nut to the locking lug nut.

For the ones that are countersunk pretty deep and hard to access by other means, anyway.

Then it's pretty easy to spin off.


Similar to the method used for removing broken exhaust manifold bolts.

tape some aluminum foil around the immediate area, then spray it with a little anti-spatter to protect the wheel paint from any spatter that might occur.

 

[Grams]

If you’ve ever seen how to remove a broken stud by welding a nut onto the end…. and backing it out of the hole…. A similar thing might work.

 

[LouieBlues]

Find these on Amazon for any length locking nuts.
Like easyouts for lug nuts.

https://www.amazon.com/YEKEPRO-Removal-Extractor-Removing-T12206/dp/B0BWTHJH9Z/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2HSQ3BQ4YS710&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YIso4ZL15h9uMp6dySaTsmrHJ27BU6rQ8a7h9z5Vq52GO-eWtbEBQCbt2aJRnyPgQvrmeGpGn_Bq50V0jHxDClQXWwbYEpMPFkeRxM9BhmTDxx36iPQH1n2lk-bTlvXXT923M_R_WU7VUfMQAffBy-xLz4gQV8zf4Qx2f4b0UzAH1Ce7JcbFW_5jeOeZk_JEzdAHaucW7cpA9kHfTg6LbOwQl6DgstjakE-vBWrQImDyqPDNFWDPVdigAsEAzC-TElTOocfK32MX8tExNBrr3zr1w2UEnNqF_U8VF7CnfGc.J-GSuh-oAVHt9Ew5JdoD4HXod5rvqUMN5ChmRYpI-oY&dib_tag=se&keywords=tool%2Bto%2Bremove%2Blocking%2Blug%2Bnuts&qid=1773284385&sprefix=remove%2Blocking%2Bnuts%2Caps%2C447&sr=8-6&th=1

 

[LouM]

I also go with the welded nut as the most likely to work. With the least agravation.

 

[LouieBlues]

I also go with the welded nut as the most likely to work. With the least agravation.

Welded nut's also works if the OP has a welder handy. I've got a Hobart... but...