Buying 2016 Rebel - Hemi Tick and other Questions

[Brandon-w]

Hahaha.... see Ram’s aren’t that bad after all!!!

I mean they circled the problem. Work boots are better than a ferd.

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[bfill_rebel]

Forgot the overworked turbos coking and failing @ ~ 70k miles, reliable.

Don’t forget the initial fix to their intercooler condensation problem was to block 1/2 the intercooler with a plastic plate. When I had my Ford I told the dealer... you put that on there you keep the truck.


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[Brandon-w]

Don’t forget the initial fix to their intercooler condensation problem was to block 1/2 the intercooler with a plastic plate. When I had my Ford I told the dealer... you put that on there you keep the truck.


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That's just retarded.

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[bfill_rebel]

OP,
Where do you live climate wise? Only ask as the Rebel in 2016 was air suspension at all 4 corners.


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[Rav3ncroft]

Looks like he's from Texas. Which is snow country here lately. [emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]

 

[Ribtipram]

Fyi - HD models did not get the eco idiot light for MDS. I've owned both trucks.

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My 16 2500 has an eco light

 

[G0S7]

MDS is not on at idle. There is a speed limit threshold. Don't recall what, been 3 years since I owned a half ton. Maybe 20mph

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I see, that definitely clarifies things!

 

[G0S7]

OP,
Where do you live climate wise? Only ask as the Rebel in 2016 was air suspension at all 4 corners.


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I live in San Antonio. It will probably be back to 80-90F as soon as Feb

However the Rebel will be coming from Ohio so we will see what happens.

 

[tidefan1967]

I live in San Antonio. It will probably be back to 80-90F as soon as Feb

However the Rebel will be coming from Ohio so we will see what happens.

Since that's in the heart of the rust belt I would check it over thoroughly for rust before pulling the trigger. At five years old you could have some pretty bad stuff lurking behind the scenes for sure. I would pay particular attention to the inner fenders especially in the rear and the front fenders near where the RAM 1500/HEMI badges are. I would think you would have a pretty rusty frame and a good bit of corrosion on all the aluminum parts by now with 116K miles........ I'm sure some of the other good folks on here know more about where to look for more rust prone areas than I do being from the South and all.

 

[digeratus]

I've read several threads on the hemi tick due to the manifold bolts but I don't think I seen what if affects. If the manifold bolts are broken, does it cause loss of power due to compression? It sounds like several people don't get it fixed.

 

[tron67j]

That's very true. My truck idles quite a bit not so much now but only in the morning and at night when it was cold. I could try driving it harder. I might get arrested tho [emoji23]

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This got me thinking. Hypothetically, if the issue comes from idling and maybe MDS is engaged then (also don't want to get in re-discussing if MDS is on when eco light is engaged) maybe remote start is not the friend we might think it is. No idea if that holds water, just a thought.

 

[Jim Elliott]

I bought a 2013 Express with 150k on it. I knew it would need the cam and lifter swap just from the constant tapping. I found a backyard mechanic to do it for $900 plus parts. He set the timing wrong and cracked a piston. It scattered on the way home. So much for not using a licensed tech. At any rate, I found a 2015 5.7 with 85,000 mi, and had it installed. I use a bottle of Liquid Moly every oil change to keep the rolling lifters happy. No problems. The truck has no squeaks or groans and drives like a new rig. From what I have read, the cam/lifter problem is a very small percentage of these rigs. The liquid Moly is being used as a preventative measure. Good luck with your decision.

 

[Terry Snapp]

I know you were asking about 2015+ Rams but, my 2011 had can/lifter issues at 36,000 miles. They replaced the cam and all lifters, machined the exhaust manifolds and even replaced both heads (couldn’t drill out 1 bolt)
Now with 193,000 I haven’t had any further issues.

 

[G0S7]

I bought a 2013 Express with 150k on it. I knew it would need the cam and lifter swap just from the constant tapping. I found a backyard mechanic to do it for $900 plus parts. He set the timing wrong and cracked a piston. It scattered on the way home. So much for not using a licensed tech. At any rate, I found a 2015 5.7 with 85,000 mi, and had it installed. I use a bottle of Liquid Moly every oil change to keep the rolling lifters happy. No problems. The truck has no squeaks or groans and drives like a new rig. From what I have read, the cam/lifter problem is a very small percentage of these rigs. The liquid Moly is being used as a preventative measure. Good luck with your decision.

Damn what a nightmare! What oil are you using now along with the liquid moly?

Also for anyone who would like to chime in: What oil would you recommend at my mileage in my hot central TX climate? Pretty much 90-100F 10months out of the year with bumper to bumper traffic during rush hr.

And what's that other oil brand I keep hearing? Redline right?

 

[Brandon-w]

Damn what a nightmare! What oil are you using now along with the liquid moly?

Also for anyone who would like to chime in: What oil would you recommend at my mileage in my hot central TX climate? Pretty much 90-100F 10months out of the year with bumper to bumper traffic during rush hr.

And what's that other oil brand I keep hearing? Redline right?

@Burla and @Hemi395 have lots of experience with oils, they can steer you in The right direction. There is also a huuuuuge synthetic oil thread on here that's quite informative. But yes to answer your question redline is one of the best.

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[kurek]

Also for anyone who would like to chime in: What oil would you recommend at my mileage in my hot central TX climate? Pretty much 90-100F 10months out of the year with bumper to bumper traffic during rush hr.

Oh boy now you did it! Get ready for literally everyone to pile in and tell you what you GOTTA use, and it's gospel and anything else you use is dumb and wrong!

I'll tell you what I use - might as well - but all I can report is so far I have no problems on this or any of the other vehicles I've owned since I started being an adult about maintenance.

Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec - whichever's a better deal when I buy. No mix-ins. 5w20 as specified in the manual. I don't think there's any magic hiding in them they're both just premium synthetic oils that haven't let me down. I also don't think there's any magic in any particular oil filter so it's almost always a STP extended life filter because they have grippy paint that's easy to install and remove with hand strength, and usually that's what's on sale in a package deal with Castrol Syntec at Autozone.

The one oil.. uh... superstition (??) I guess I'm into is what some would call recreational oil changes. I don't wait until the dashboard indicator tells me the oil is dead I take care of all fluid maintenance on an earlier schedule. For this truck like ~6000 miles or so on engine oil, sometimes more, and since I bought it brand new I also did a break-in change at 1000.

 

[Brandon-w]

Oh boy now you did it! Get ready for literally everyone to pile in and tell you what you GOTTA use, and it's gospel and anything else you use is dumb and wrong!

I'll tell you what I use - might as well - but all I can report is so far I have no problems on this or any of the other vehicles I've owned since I started being an adult about maintenance.

Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec - whichever's a better deal when I buy. No mix-ins. 5w20 as specified in the manual. I don't think there's any magic hiding in them they're both just premium synthetic oils that haven't let me down. I also don't think there's any magic in any particular oil filter so it's almost always a STP extended life filter because they have grippy paint that's easy to install and remove with hand strength, and usually that's what's on sale in a package deal with Castrol Syntec at Autozone.

The one oil.. uh... superstition (??) I guess I'm into is what some would call recreational oil changes. I don't wait until the dashboard indicator tells me the oil is dead I take care of all fluid maintenance on an earlier schedule. For this truck like ~6000 miles or so on engine oil, sometimes more, and since I bought it brand new I also did a break-in change at 1000.

Yupp here comes the arguments [emoji23] Where's my popcorn

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[John Schmidt]

Hi. I have a 2019 Classic that I've had for about 11 months. From day THREE of owning the vehicle, if I let it sit for more than 48 hours, I will hear what sounds like lifter ticking for about 30 seconds. Drives me nuts, but dealers/service won't do anything about it. Any ideas will be appreciated.

 

[Jason Boulware]

Very good info. I think I may have blindly run into this situation. I had no intention to do any performance mods really. My main intention was to find a solid out of the box off roader. I had no idea about the AC pump needing any type of specialized charge. Seem I quite uninformed, thinking "a truck is a truck" for the most part. That's something I would expect from a G Wagon or Range Rover.



Yes I agree, I really had no intentions of increasing performance. My main goal was to use it as an overland vehicle for family trips or for at least the wife and I. With the exception of getting larger tires and carrying more gear and equipment it wasn't my attention to do anything that would further decrease the gas mileage. I went from looking at 275hp Tacomas to Rebels with nearly 400hp and found them more than adequate to meet my needs. Getting performance lifters and cams is pretty much no less of a hassle. With this mileage, of course I'd wouldn't be disappointed if I was required to replace a water pump, any sort of gaskets, timing chain, wheel bearings etc etc, but we're talking about pulling heads and a cam replacement here.

You can do a cam swap on the hemi in a truck a lot easier than you think I can do one start to finish in 6~8 hours. Mechanics that do it more often can do one in 3 hours, look on you tube at cam your ram and check out his mechanic buddy swapping his cam in 3 hours. What I’m saying is that the lifter issue if it was to happen isn’t as bad as it sounds although I do understand the dealership is bad expensive but there are plenty of shops and performance shops that will do the job for less than the deposit that you are going to lose if you change your mind you can do a swap for less than 1500$ and if you do the job yourself it will only cost you for parts JMO

 

[Brandon-w]

Ls swap it! Tick problem solved [emoji23]

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