Camshaft and rocker and overall MOD QUESTIONS

zakfarias · Feb 17, 2016

Okay so hi, I am new to this wonderfully strangely different world of being a Dodge owner. Yup, another vehicle make to add to the garage along with the Ford, Chevy, and Nissan. (See, I have no particular bias especially when the price is right and the power potential is there.)
Well the new victim, I mean er uhm vehicle is a 1994 Ram 1500 2WD Laramie SLT regular cab long bed. 5.9L Magnum for a power plant with automatic transmission. 130,000 miles
Now this truck is being built along the lines of being a street-able fun to drive truck that will hardly ever see a payload or trailer behind except on the ever so often occasion that I don’t feel like using the F-150) So speed/torque demon it is for a build please. I want this thing to be something that has a response and sound to it that will put a wicked smile on your face every time you press the go-go pedal and have to peel your **** out of the back window.
On we go…but first let me mention that yes I have used the search function and already have sunk over 50 hours lurking through the 2nd gen forums trying to glean what information I can on these trucks, thus the build/mods I have listed below. I am looking for further more specific input on how everything will pair up together.
My main concern is the camshaft and roller rocker combination I have in mind, but first I will list all supporting mods:
(PLEASE NOTE THAT NONE OF THESE HAVE BEEN PURCHASED OR INSTALLED YET, they are just an itinerary of what will be done all at once, any changes, additions, or recommendations are more than welcomed!) I will withhold purchasing a single item until some kind of conclusion has been reached through this forum thread! (This takes so much self-control that I do not possess so hopefully this is resolved extremely swift)
*Hughes Engine aluminum plenum belly
*Hughes Engine underdrive crank pulley (crank only no alternator, already heard of charging nightmares)
*Hughes Engine A/C Delete pulley (previous owner cut lines out)
*Autolite 3923 plugs (unless someone has a better updated recommendation?)
* MSD ignition coil (worth it? Considering all mods as a whole?)
*MSD ignition 6al box (is this even necessary? Or will the MSD Blaster coil be enough on its own?)
*Edelbrock 1222 Triangle Air Hat intake
*Pacesetter Long tube Headers
*2.5 Duals off the headers into a DI/DO Magnaflow 12468 (has “X” pipe built into muffler)
*Kegger Mod (should it be partial cut like the 5.2L or full cut out?)
*Fastmann 52mm throttle body
*180 degree Stant Superstat thermostat
*Opinions on E-fan with this setup?
*Hemifever custom tune when all is said and done
*Also the updated timing kit since I’m in there (that’s from Hughes Engines Right???)
And now, the camshaft vs roller rockers
I am looking at putting in the non-adjustable Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers and pairing those with a Comp Cam part # 20-746-9. Now the concern is a couple little things…
*Will these pair well?
*Will lift be an issue in the stock heads?
*Comp Cams rep noted that I would need different springs, so what kind of springs am I looking at needing to get?
*Will pushrods be needed? If so, what dimensions?
*Can a bigger cam go in with little to no mods?
Mopar is expensive compared to budget friendly 350s, so, I only feel like buying parts once and installing only once. Also I will probably end up ordering everything over the next couple months and then installing everything pretty much all at once since the truck is just sitting around rusting away.
Once the powerplant is situated I will have to figure out why speedometer doesn’t work (I’ll put drill on VSS and work from there) and also see why there is no brakes until the pedal is pretty much on the floor, (I’m assuming rear drum isn’t adjusted right or Master Cylinder, start with adjustments)
After that I will run the tranny until it goes “****” and rebuild with a shift kit (any ideas on a good kit, or should I go ahead and install a kit from the very beginning? Or should I just rely on the custom tuning to control the transmission, folklore legend has it that combining tuning with a shift kit is asking for trouble so I want to choose one option from the very beginning since this tranny is so soft and kind of “meh”. Sort of like an F-350 Powerstrokes transmission response)
Also, anybody who has done the above modifications to some extent. I know on one truck a simple slight tweak of the stock air intake, magnaflow cat-back and custom tune made a good noticeable difference. And the other small truck was absolutely no different with bolt-ons vs stock until I slapped a turbo on it. So, what kind of gains did you see? At crank and/or wheel? Comparing to the factory 245/330 at the crank. (Currently this truck is running like a beaten dog (plenum leak by my figuring)) So I already know these mods will make a massive difference compared to current condition, but how much better over factory in this 10 second truck…10s to 60mph that is (currently more like 14s 0-60)

And now the final wrap up point of interest. Say I have 500 into purchasing this truck. And hmm for fun let’s say the mods, all together, run me another 3000 from motor to the tailpipes. In your opinions, is it worth the gains? Or at that point should another route be taken such as twin turbo or supercharging? Or just giving up all together and sending her to the scrap heap? I honestly don’t need another truck but for the price I figured hey its worth having the drivetrain. That and a Dodge sounds better mildly built than any other vehicle built to the same level. Still not a Hemi though 

MagSport · Feb 17, 2016

*Cracks Knuckles*

zakfarias said:
Okay so hi, I am new to this wonderfully strangely different world of being a Dodge owner. Yup, another vehicle make to add to the garage along with the Ford, Chevy, and Nissan. (See, I have no particular bias especially when the price is right and the power potential is there.)
Well the new victim, I mean er uhm vehicle is a 1994 Ram 1500 2WD Laramie SLT regular cab long bed. 5.9L Magnum for a power plant with automatic transmission. 130,000 miles
Now this truck is being built along the lines of being a street-able fun to drive truck that will hardly ever see a payload or trailer behind except on the ever so often occasion that I don’t feel like using the F-150) So speed/torque demon it is for a build please. I want this thing to be something that has a response and sound to it that will put a wicked smile on your face every time you press the go-go pedal and have to peel your **** out of the back window.
On we go…but first let me mention that yes I have used the search function and already have sunk over 50 hours lurking through the 2nd gen forums trying to glean what information I can on these trucks, thus the build/mods I have listed below. I am looking for further more specific input on how everything will pair up together.
My main concern is the camshaft and roller rocker combination I have in mind, but first I will list all supporting mods:
(PLEASE NOTE THAT NONE OF THESE HAVE BEEN PURCHASED OR INSTALLED YET, they are just an itinerary of what will be done all at once, any changes, additions, or recommendations are more than welcomed!) I will withhold purchasing a single item until some kind of conclusion has been reached through this forum thread! (This takes so much self-control that I do not possess so hopefully this is resolved extremely swift)
*Hughes Engine aluminum plenum belly
Be sure to use the updated felpro gasket or the aluminum belly pan will fail just the same.
*Hughes Engine underdrive crank pulley (crank only no alternator, already heard of charging nightmares)
*Hughes Engine A/C Delete pulley (previous owner cut lines out)
*Autolite 3923 plugs (unless someone has a better updated recommendation?)
* MSD ignition coil (worth it? Considering all mods as a whole?)
*MSD ignition 6al box (is this even necessary? Or will the MSD Blaster coil be enough on its own?) Yes and no. A few people have ran this module and while it does work, the gains for the money are negligible.
*Edelbrock 1222 Triangle Air Hat intake
Hell no
*Pacesetter Long tube Headers
Hell Hell no
*2.5 Duals off the headers into a DI/DO Magnaflow 12468 (has “X” pipe built into muffler)
Make it 2.25
*Kegger Mod (should it be partial cut like the 5.2L or full cut out?)
Hell Hell Hell no if you enjoy your torque and bottom end
*Fastmann 52mm throttle body
*180 degree Stant Superstat thermostat
*Opinions on E-fan with this setup?
*Hemifever custom tune when all is said and done
Firstly, your truck is obd1 and incapable of custom tuning therefore this option is voided. Any mods you decide to do need to remain in the realm of feasible for the stock ecu, otherwise you should update to an aftermarket controller or a newer, 97+ computer with obd2.
*Also the updated timing kit since I’m in there (that’s from Hughes Engines Right???)
Don't get the one from Hughes, get the one from Mopar.
And now, the camshaft vs roller rockers
I am looking at putting in the non-adjustable Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers and pairing those with a Comp Cam part # 20-746-9. Now the concern is a couple little things…
*Will these pair well?
*Will lift be an issue in the stock heads?
*Comp Cams rep noted that I would need different springs, so what kind of springs am I looking at needing to get?
*Will pushrods be needed? If so, what dimensions?
*Can a bigger cam go in with little to no mods?
We really need access to cam specs to be able to tell you for sure, but there are many cams out there that simply bolt in place without any needed modification. Roller rockers are good and 1.7's are great if you don't plan on swapping the cam. Otherwise 1.6's will work as well depending on your cam set up. Lift can be an issue for stock springs. I don't recall the exact tolerance but more than .525"? of lift and things begin getting hairy.
Mopar is expensive compared to budget friendly 350s, so, I only feel like buying parts once and installing only once. Also I will probably end up ordering everything over the next couple months and then installing everything pretty much all at once since the truck is just sitting around rusting away.
Once the powerplant is situated I will have to figure out why speedometer doesn’t work (I’ll put drill on VSS and work from there) and also see why there is no brakes until the pedal is pretty much on the floor, (I’m assuming rear drum isn’t adjusted right or Master Cylinder, start with adjustments)
After that I will run the tranny until it goes “****” and rebuild with a shift kit (any ideas on a good kit, or should I go ahead and install a kit from the very beginning? Or should I just rely on the custom tuning to control the transmission, folklore legend has it that combining tuning with a shift kit is asking for trouble so I want to choose one option from the very beginning since this tranny is so soft and kind of “meh”. Sort of like an F-350 Powerstrokes transmission response)
That may be true for a powerstroke tranny, but shift kits and transmission tuning are fine for these transmissions. If your transmission is in good shape now you should install a shift kit and change fluid and filters just to ensure longevity. Get into a regular 20,000 mile maintenance schedule and the transmission should last as long as you have it. Also, you have a 46RH so no transmission tuning for you either lol.
Also, anybody who has done the above modifications to some extent. I know on one truck a simple slight tweak of the stock air intake, magnaflow cat-back and custom tune made a good noticeable difference. And the other small truck was absolutely no different with bolt-ons vs stock until I slapped a turbo on it. So, what kind of gains did you see? At crank and/or wheel? Comparing to the factory 245/330 at the crank. (Currently this truck is running like a beaten dog (plenum leak by my figuring)) So I already know these mods will make a massive difference compared to current condition, but how much better over factory in this 10 second truck…10s to 60mph that is (currently more like 14s 0-60)
Not much if I'm honest. Bolt on's for these trucks work great, and really make you feel like you've gained an ass ton of power, but actual engine mods, heads, cam, stroker builds, forced induction builds, stuff like that are going to net you the gains that, as you say, makes you peel your ass out of your back window.
And now the final wrap up point of interest. Say I have 500 into purchasing this truck. And hmm for fun let’s say the mods, all together, run me another 3000 from motor to the tailpipes. In your opinions, is it worth the gains? Or at that point should another route be taken such as twin turbo or supercharging? Or just giving up all together and sending her to the scrap heap? I honestly don’t need another truck but for the price I figured hey its worth having the drivetrain. That and a Dodge sounds better mildly built than any other vehicle built to the same level. Still not a Hemi though
That's up to you bud lol You say you've built vehicles before and you don't sound ignorant so I'm sure you can figure out what $3,000 will net you. All depends on how far you want to go with it. The saying, you get what you pay for, definitely rings true here.

zakfarias · Feb 17, 2016

WHOA AWESOME, haha sorry I didn’t expect such a quick response. Other murky areas of the intraweb are a bit slower!

Okay so I do agree on several points here especially concerning the Kegger Mod, If I were to forego the MSD ignition box and only get the Blaster Coil then I would be more than willing to trade off and get a different style of intake. However, I keep finding tons of conflicting information on what intake “suits” these trucks best. Suggestions?

And with shift kits who has a good go to kit for the 46? Part #s?

And what’s so wrong with an Air Hat? I mean it is pretty much the 14 x 3 mod for the intake and with how much is opened up in the engine bay I figure under hood temperatures would be something to ignore, especially since CAI have heat-soak anyways. If it were a MPG concern I may care but if it is POSSIBLE to increase throttle response then I have no problem with it. Or I could go with a CAI, either one really. Probably go with a GEN II I am assuming? Hard to find good CAI threads for these trucks with all the threads concerning the 14X3 and cheap DIYs taking up GOOGLE.
Here is the CAM Specs from Comp Cams for cam 20-746-9
Duration at 0.05 216/224
Valve lift: .506/.506
Lobe lift .317/.317
Lobe separation 114 degrees
I am noticing that this cam is labelled to go with 1:6:1 Rockers
With this information does anyone have experience in this community with a setup rather similar to these for cam, rocker, and lift? If it can fit I would like to slap it on in, otherwise I have to flip a coin a couple hundred times to decide between the 1.7RR or the cam. I will say I miss having a thumper but I doubt the duration on this cam is enough to really notice, might get a small amount of a lope.
***I would consider getting aftermarket heads if the cost can be justified since I am wheedling some mods out of the truck’s budget*** However, at that point there’s not too far to go just to build the whole motor which is something I rather not do with this one.
And damn I always forget about OBD I era vehicles. I usually am tinkering on ancient dinosaurs or late models that have OBDII. Is the stock ECU able to compensate for all these mods with running lean or smoking a valve *cough cough* FORD *cough cough* Has anyone on here done an OBD II conversion? What all went into it for them? I have swapped ECUs to an extent to put a 240SX ECU in a Frontier so that it can be flashed for turbocharged applications.

Headers…yeah…I am not a big fan of Pacesetter at all either, but, who else makes a long tube for these trucks? I don’t feel like spending time doing my own R&D to make my own set so who makes a good alternative for these trucks in the shorty department?

Exhaust, yup wish I could get a shop to do 2 3/8 but that’s just an awkward non-standard size with too many adapters. If I remember school well enough I believe dual 2.25 is good for something like 371 HP. So, good call since I doubt this truck will ever reach that unless I actually build it (probably wouldn’t even consider it), but for Dodges all I ever find in the builds for reference is people running 2.5 True Duals so I had thought I would just jump on the bandwagon for jolly ol’ fun.

On my previous vehicles I have always had to learn by trial and error and I have found that every manufacturer responds differently to different “enhancements” I would like to waste as little time and money on this Dodge since it’s a “just for fun” truck that will every once in a while do the dirtier work that I don’t want to use the other truck for. I hated when I sank money into mods on one truck and at the end of the day it was better off nearly stock than it was with every bolt on imaginable. So of course that’s why I stated I am here to do it one time and one time only. Besides some tweaking over time.

Cost wise for only a bit more I could go a twin turbo route, but I remember how much of a nightmare that has been with setting up on the Frontier, although this truck does have less mileage and a lot more space available, I doubt I really want to go through the hassle, especially since tuning is more challenging. Supercharging, now that’s something I would love to try, I have never done one or owned a vehicle with one so it would be a good checkpoint off my list. But the aftermarket doesn’t seemed geared towards the second gens for that application as much as it does for when the Hemi came around. All in all a NA motor will have to do the trick most likely and the build goal is to go no deeper than the heads, because once I start diving in…I start to go a little crazy, building a forged block that only has a couple few hundred horsepower designed to handle 1000.

Mohpar · Feb 17, 2016

zakfarias said:
Okay so I do agree on several points here especially concerning the Kegger Mod, If I were to forego the MSD ignition box and only get the Blaster Coil then I would be more than willing to trade off and get a different style of intake. However, I keep finding tons of conflicting information on what intake “suits” these trucks best. Suggestions?

The 2 main ones are the Hughes FI Airgap and Mopar M1. Plenty of debate over which is better, not my area

And with shift kits who has a good go to kit for the 46? Part #s?

I installed the TransGo TFOD-HD2, however that is a DIY kit. Expect a lot of time and effort and you need to have experience working on auto components to tackle that one. Well worth it though.

And what’s so wrong with an Air Hat? I mean it is pretty much the 14 x 3 mod for the intake and with how much is opened up in the engine bay I figure under hood temperatures would be something to ignore,

I don't think it's anything to ignore. The engine bay is big, yes, but it still gets hot under there.

especially since CAI have heat-soak anyways. If it were a MPG concern I may care but if it is POSSIBLE to increase throttle response then I have no problem with it. Or I could go with a CAI, either one really. Probably go with a GEN II I am assuming? Hard to find good CAI threads for these trucks with all the threads concerning the 14X3 and cheap DIYs taking up GOOGLE.

Throttle response and MPGs aren't going to matter that much. Time is better spent on your internals. Volant makes a great CAI kit, there are several writeups (including mine) on DIY setups, and there are $150 ebay CAIs that do the job OK

Here is the CAM Specs from Comp Cams for cam 20-746-9
Duration at 0.05 216/224
Valve lift: .506/.506
Lobe lift .317/.317
Lobe separation 114 degrees
I am noticing that this cam is labelled to go with 1:6:1 Rockers
With this information does anyone have experience in this community with a setup rather similar to these for cam, rocker, and lift? If it can fit I would like to slap it on in, otherwise I have to flip a coin a couple hundred times to decide between the 1.7RR or the cam. I will say I miss having a thumper but I doubt the duration on this cam is enough to really notice, might get a small amount of a lope.

Don't know much about cams for our trucks, but I think you can run the HS 1.7s

***I would consider getting aftermarket heads if the cost can be justified since I am wheedling some mods out of the truck’s budget*** However, at that point there’s not too far to go just to build the whole motor which is something I rather not do with this one.

I don't think you should overlook heads, but if you decide not to at least keep it on your mind. EQ makes a set of heads that flow better than stock unported, but the heads on these trucks aren't the worst thing ever.

And damn I always forget about OBD I era vehicles. I usually am tinkering on ancient dinosaurs or late models that have OBDII. Is the stock ECU able to compensate for all these mods with running lean or smoking a valve *cough cough* FORD *cough cough* Has anyone on here done an OBD II conversion? What all went into it for them? I have swapped ECUs to an extent to put a 240SX ECU in a Frontier so that it can be flashed for turbocharged applications.

Mmmm I'm almost thinking you could, if you had the patience, buy a used ECU and pull a wiring harness off a junker and get it to work. Will probably have to get the ECU reflashed at a Dodge dealership from what I've heard.

Headers…yeah…I am not a big fan of Pacesetter at all either, but, who else makes a long tube for these trucks? I don’t feel like spending time doing my own R&D to make my own set so who makes a good alternative for these trucks in the shorty department?

I'd say skip the longtubes for now. Options for shorties are Gibson and JBA, the best would arguably be midlengths made by Doug T or Spintech. Pricy though

Exhaust, yup wish I could get a shop to do 2 3/8 but that’s just an awkward non-standard size with too many adapters. If I remember school well enough I believe dual 2.25 is good for something like 371 HP. So, good call since I doubt this truck will ever reach that unless I actually build it (probably wouldn’t even consider it), but for Dodges all I ever find in the builds for reference is people running 2.5 True Duals so I had thought I would just jump on the bandwagon for jolly ol’ fun.

2.5 duals isn't bad, I think 2.25 would be your best bet (come summertime what I will be turning to). A Carven muffler is liked by many guys here.

On my previous vehicles I have always had to learn by trial and error and I have found that every manufacturer responds differently to different “enhancements” I would like to waste as little time and money on this Dodge since it’s a “just for fun” truck that will every once in a while do the dirtier work that I don’t want to use the other truck for. I hated when I sank money into mods on one truck and at the end of the day it was better off nearly stock than it was with every bolt on imaginable. So of course that’s why I stated I am here to do it one time and one time only. Besides some tweaking over time.

Valid reasoning. At least you've done some reasearch and come up with a basic list. They will get you some power. Don't forget the whole picture though. A shift kit is a great tool to extend trans life. Could regear a little lower to give you more pep (albeit at the expense of some MPGs if you go too low)

Cost wise for only a bit more I could go a twin turbo route, but I remember how much of a nightmare that has been with setting up on the Frontier, although this truck does have less mileage and a lot more space available, I doubt I really want to go through the hassle, especially since tuning is more challenging. Supercharging, now that’s something I would love to try, I have never done one or owned a vehicle with one so it would be a good checkpoint off my list. But the aftermarket doesn’t seemed geared towards the second gens for that application as much as it does for when the Hemi came around. All in all a NA motor will have to do the trick most likely and the build goal is to go no deeper than the heads, because once I start diving in…I start to go a little crazy, building a forged block that only has a couple few hundred horsepower designed to handle 1000.

Boosting this engine in both ways is possible, Procharger makes a kit for our trucks and SD Concepts makes a TT package. Although other members disagree, my opinion is that you'll want forged internals (piston, crank, etc) if trying to run boost reliably for the long run.

...

dapepper9 · Feb 17, 2016

The longtubes are too much for anything less than boost or stroker. JBA or Gibson would be better. Spintechs would be ideal but $$$. 2.5" duals is bad on anything less than stroker or huffer when using straight through mufflers.

Mopar Performance pcm or obd2 conversion if you want any kind of tuning, and if you go that route go to FlyinRyan, NOT hemifever.

Anything over about .480 lift you need new springs if i remember correctly.

Heads you can unlock some decent power with some EQs from Jegs.

If you want to make any kind of power it would really behoove you to invest in a 2bbl M1, 4bbl M1, or Hughes AirCrap intake manifold. The kegger doesn't breathe very well.

If you want a direct replacement coil that's good quality, MSD 8228. Wires 8.5mm MSD superconductors. Plugs NGK BKR6E or BKR7E or Bosch 7692s.

Fastman 52mm is a good buy but compare price vs HiPoTek. I can't remember pricing.

Only CAI really worth buying is Volant because of the Ram air scoop.

Shift kit TransGo or TransAction. If you rebuild it, PATC kit and converter.

I'm missing something somewhere. Oh well lol

zakfarias · Feb 17, 2016

Okay so I would like to refresh my list of parts to install:

We are looking at:

*JBA Shorty headers with 1.5 primaries

*Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers (if these will work with cam)

*Comp Cam 20-746-9 (Also may as well do the Valve covers just in case of clearance issues? Anyone have some part numbers???) So I need some help figuring on the valves springs necessary in this build and if pushrods will need to be changed and what to?

I am looking at the JEGS EQ heads, however, suggestions on getting the blank or the one already together? Considering that rockers and springs have to be changed?

*An m1 mpi intake manifold single plane 2 bbl.

*MSD Blaster Coil

*Exhuast will indeed be 2.25 duals to a tru x magnaflow muffler(part #12468 or part # 11386?) I want a nice growl that shows that cam at idle and when you press the go-go I want it to snarl and roar. But none of that flowmaster style sound of just being loud. I like my exhaust to have a tuned and refined sound.

*Stant Superstat 180

*A Trans-Go shift kit (and well since I am just taking ownership, fluid and filter change on tranny)

*Fastmann 52mm Throttle body

*H.E. Underdrive crank pulley

*H.E. A/C delete pulley

*Tuning...I don't want to invest in standalone management on a mild NA motor. B&G website only has 96 and up RAM so I am not so sure on what to do for tuning this motor so that all mods collaborate together appropriately...

*CAI...Never have liked Volant but their system does seem unique on these Dodges, however, can't seem to find too many opinions via retailers on this system...any opinions out there to be shared?

*Still looking at the Autolite 3923, would prefer NGK if enough community evidence can be provided to show they outperform in these specific motors. You know every make is different. The Nissan only likes NGK while the Ford will only take Motorcraft. And the Dodge...no clue.

*Plug wires? Now that I think of it?

Also, I know this trick works on other motors, but is there a thinner head gasket available to raise the compression ratio a bit? I would also probably mill the EQ heads say 0.020" to gain a few more points of compression as well.

dapepper9 · Feb 17, 2016

M1 is gonna be hard to find. That's why i also threw the 4bbl and aircrap out there. Aircrap is still a decent intake but I'm biased towards the m1 as are people who have the m1 lol. Hence why i say aircrap, still better than kegger though.

Don't quote me but the heads with springs have pretty decent springs if i remember correctly. I'd have to look some more.

Skip hughes on the a/c pulley, can get the same product from Napa or AdvanceAuto for $40. Made by Dorman. Don't get it from Oreillys or AutoZone they don't include the hardware.

NGK are what's suggested by the JTECH tuning god FlyinRyan, where i got the part numbers but the Bosch are comparable. Whatever your preference. Autolites are decent though too but I've seen complaints about AutoLite quality.

Mopar Performance PCM is highly recommended by our resident engine guy Merc225hp. He's running 10.5:1 CR 2bbl m1 ported heads and custom grind with that pcm and it's a great combo for him.

MagSport · Feb 17, 2016

A little input on that cam choice. I would consider looking at something with a little less LSA: that's in the range of a boosted build right there although the duration seems doable, maybe a little too much. Get in touch with comp and let them know exactly what your looking for. That cam is going to work better with higher rpm components such as the assortment of single plane intakes available and what have you.
As far as swapping the computer goes, the engine would be a fairly simple wiring job as, up until 01? they used the same wiring harness on all the trucks and even the 01s just use different injector clips iirc. You would need the interior wiring harness of a 97 truck to make it obd2 and tunable. Or aftermarket controller since you've gone through all the trouble :naughty:

The standard 14x3 is good but the edelbrock triangle air filter is a **** piece and not very good. I would be worried about sucking it into my engine. Plus something that small is not going to flow enough to feed these engines. Volant, diy, or stock air intake is all that should be done, otherwise it's hardly worth the money.
As far as intakes go: I would leave the stock keggar as it's the torquiest out of the bunch but the m1 and airgap are single plane intakes more suited for higher rpm power hands. Careful consideration of your gearing, cam and intake should be done before pulling the trigger on any of these parts.

MagSport · Feb 17, 2016

Also sonnax and trans go are the two to go towards here
For some light reading:
A518 mods and maint.
http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?t=65395

BBartow · Feb 17, 2016

MagSport said:
A little input on that cam choice. I would consider looking at something with a little less LSA: that's in the range of a boosted build right there although the duration seems doable, maybe a little too much. Get in touch with comp and let them know exactly what your looking for. That cam is going to work better with higher rpm components such as the assortment of single plane intakes available and what have you.
As far as swapping the computer goes, the engine would be a fairly simple wiring job as, up until 01? they used the same wiring harness on all the trucks and even the 01s just use different injector clips iirc. You would need the interior wiring harness of a 97 truck to make it obd2 and tunable. Or aftermarket controller since you've gone through all the trouble
The standard 14x3 is good but the edelbrock triangle air filter is a **** piece and not very good. I would be worried about sucking it into my engine. Plus something that small is not going to flow enough to feed these engines. Volant, diy, or stock air intake is all that should be done, otherwise it's hardly worth the money.
As far as intakes go: I would leave the stock keggar as it's the torquiest out of the bunch but the m1 and airgap are single plane intakes more suited for higher rpm power hands. Careful consideration of your gearing, cam and intake should be done before pulling the trigger on any of these parts.

You're thinking of a different eddy air filter.

Long thread, too late to read it all. Be back tomorrow. :crazy:

dodge dude94 · Feb 18, 2016

Sorry for long thread.
Here's a potato

dapepper9 · Feb 18, 2016

MagSport said:
Also sonnax and trans go are the two to go towards here
For some light reading:
A518 mods and maint.
A518 mods and maint. - DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums

Sonnax really isn't a shift kit. I'll admit fault for that as i thought it was. It's basically just a fixer. I recommended the TransAction based on that's what you get with the Viper line of aftermarket transmissions

dapepper9 · Feb 18, 2016

MagSport said:
As far as swapping the computer goes, the engine would be a fairly simple wiring job as, up until 01? they used the same wiring harness on all the trucks and even the 01s just use different injector clips iirc. You would need the interior wiring harness of a 97 truck to make it obd2 and tunable. Or aftermarket controller since you've gone through all the trouble

00 was when the injectors changed to the EV6 or USCAR connectors and red injectors. I agree obd2 conversion would not be too difficult if you had a 97 donor truck. Aftermarket controller, well that's where MegaSquirt comes in (go ahead Chance smile

). Being as you don't need trans support for tuning choice MegaSquirt is a great option. Just gotta play with it and learn how to use it before you get too crazy with modifications

zakfarias · Feb 18, 2016

Damn, didn't get any updates that there were replies, shocking!

Before I embark on another long repetitive tirade I will say that the intention of this truck is to just be a good performance street truck. As far as working, it will rarely ever see that unless maybe hauling some lumber across the farm on occasion. So if a high RPM performer is easier than it will be all about getting it to rev that much faster. If low end is manageable then let's do it. I don't care either way, I just want something that is fun to drive and abuse! It's a for fun play truck to enhance my knowledge of Mopar and fun!

Well I am currently listing the stages I want to tackle these "enhancements" (the ole 79 bowtie decided for itself that it desires a better suspension today)

The Cam I listed is the one that was recommended by Comp Cams, however, I may have missed some of the modifications when talking to a rep. So, I will end up calling them again when I get a little closer to pulling the trigger to see what is then recommended. I don't mind doing the 1.6rr if I can get a better tuned cam, but, I would prefer running the 1.77rr and a matching cam.

Step 1:
I have to fix this stupid exhaust. it just sounds so horrible and disgusting with no muffler, resonator, and straight pipe dumped under the cab...so...starting with JBA headers, 2.25 exhaust (true duals) to a magnaflow DI/DO with built in "X" pipe. Still can't quite decide on which muffler though from magnaflow.

Step 2:
We will tackle the small "typical bolt-on" tweaking to get another "hand calculated reference point for performance and response. And infamous butt dyno of truck...

*Underdrive crank pulley

*the MSD Blast ignition coil

*180 thermostat

*And flushing cooling system to run Redline Water Wetter and distilled

*And A/C delete pulley

*CAI or 14x3 (still in the air on which method and what CAI to consider)

Step 3:
The mid-point. Time to increase the butt dyno and responsiveness before anything major.

*Transmission service and install and Trans-go shift kit.

*Install a new intake manifold; either the M1 or the Airgap (whichever is available)

STEP 4:
Now things go a bit deeper.

*Order JEGS EQ heads (? on if those are the right ones) I will not be installing them in this step however since I will likely take them and get them machined down by 0.020"(bump compression a couple points) and maybe 2.02 ported (any luck with that here?!?)

STEP 5:
Here installation picks back up

*Install the heads ((possibly with a 0.028" head gasket to bump compression a couple more points)) ((I am concerned on clearance here though if I combine this head gasket with machining the heads, if there could be problems let me know and I'll save the coin from head-work and just go with the thinner head-gasket.))

*HS roller rockers, either 1.6 or 1.7 (cam dependent at this point...)

*Cam from comp cams that pairs well with the RR

*Probably will have to do new pushrods...yay....*sarcasm*

STEP 6:
This is for the wrap up on the short block...

*Fastmann 52mm TB to pair with the better intake and heads.

*Mopar Performance PCM to make it all come together, (So, what are the limitations here as far as cam and roller rockers, and compression are concerned?) (will this be able to tune itself for all mods mentioned?) (and most importantly, where is this thing even available from? Is it plug and play?)

***Or do I need to just forego this and deal with Megasquirt? I would like to practice tuning but at the same time I don't want to cram that much more into my brain less I forget some other important part of functioning as a human being.***

STEP 7:
Miscellaneous adjustments and tune ups as well as probably installing a wideband for security purposes.

I am sorry ahead of time if I am having you guys drag me along and guide me like a child. But I prefer input and guidance on what works and doesn't work from a community that has done this over and over rather than from my own crack-brained ideas!!! HAHA!

SIDE NOTE: What kind of numbers at crank and wheel are you guys estimating here? Just for fun? I will apologize but I don't know the rear gear ration right now since the truck is out of town in storage for another couple weeks.I am assuming there is a standard ratio though that came on the Laramie SLT 2WD Longbed 5.9L ??? SO let's use that number as the standard until I have more info!

***Also forgot about the IAT relocation mod, worth it in this setup or not? any links for a good article on the install?

dapepper9 · Feb 18, 2016

This is what my 4x4 laid down with stock tire size and gears (3.55, likely what you have as well), 2bbl m1, open muffler, and superchips (junk, pretty much useless) on a less than ideal day. 95 degrees and humid af. Currently have JBAs, 52mm tb, and sct tuning now instead of the superchips and it's an extreme difference throughout the entire power band.

dapepper9 · Feb 19, 2016

Camshaft and rocker and overall MOD QUESTIONS

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