Changing gearing

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gablett

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I got my 13 1500 used and it has 3.92 rear end. I don’t really tow anything with it and am looking to get some better mileage. Would it be worthwhile to change the gearing and how hard/expensive is it?


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Random_Walk

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Not sure it would be worthwhile; you won't get that much of an mpg boost, and acceleration won't bump by that much.

Now if you wanted to go from 3.21 to 3.55 or 3.92 I'd understand, but in the other direction...?
 

Ohio5pt7

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I have 3.21s and the 8sp I get good milage but the cost to rear even at 2mpg would take you years to get your money back. On the other hand I wont gear higher because I want the mpg but I got mine new as is so I want have thousands invested.

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mtofell

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You'd need to drive to the moon and back 300+ times before you'd recover what you pay to have the gears changed.
 

Ohio5pt7

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You'd need to drive to the moon and back 300+ times before you'd recover what you pay to have the gears changed.
This

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Ohio5pt7

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Get a vararam and open up the exhaust you'll get about the same increase and it will only cost you 400 bucks. Not ut will initially go down because the new found response and sound but it will come back

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Hemi395

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I got my 13 1500 used and it has 3.92 rear end. I don’t really tow anything with it and am looking to get some better mileage. Would it be worthwhile to change the gearing and how hard/expensive is it?


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I have 3.55s front and rear diffs I'll trade you[emoji16]
 
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Wild one

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I got my 13 1500 used and it has 3.92 rear end. I don’t really tow anything with it and am looking to get some better mileage. Would it be worthwhile to change the gearing and how hard/expensive is it?


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Your rear diff would be a great trade for somebody with 3.21's who wanted 3.92's instead.That'd be the way i'd go,is look for somebody who'll trade you complete rear diffs,you might even be able to suck them into doing the swap as your 3.92 diff is worth more then their 3.21 diff usually,lol.
 

dhay13

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I doubt you'd see more than maybe 1 MPG and in some scenarios might even get worse mileage. Out on the open highway might be the only time the 3.21's would be better and like I said, you might save a couple of $$$ in fuel every 1000 miles driven
 

Ohio5pt7

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I doubt you'd see more than maybe 1 MPG and in some scenarios might even get worse mileage. Out on the open highway might be the only time the 3.21's would be better and like I said, you might save a couple of $$$ in fuel every 1000 miles driven
This is very true my mpgs come on the highway those with 3.92s get better city so depending on where you put your miles on it may be a bad deal.

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68PowerWagon

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Your rear diff would be a great trade for somebody with 3.21's who wanted 3.92's instead.That'd be the way i'd go,is look for somebody who'll trade you complete rear diffs,you might even be able to suck them into doing the swap as your 3.92 diff is worth more then their 3.21 diff usually,lol.

Most of the cost of re-gearing is labor. With the kit & labor you are only saving about $250 per axle. And then you have to worry about the other guys gears. Are they still in good shape?
 

Wild one

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Most of the cost of re-gearing is labor. With the kit & labor you are only saving about $250 per axle. And then you have to worry about the other guys gears. Are they still in good shape?

If he can find somebody who wants to trade him complete rear diffs/housings,it shouldn't cost him anything other then a couple hours labour. The ZF diffs are fairly tough and if you find a relatively low milege one to swap in,i wouldn't be to worried about it.
I wasn't referring to him swapping used gears into his housing,i was referring to actually swapping the complete rearend, housing and all.Sorry for the confusion if you thought I meant swapping gears. If he was a little closer I have a complete 3.21 rear end that had a brand new posi/limited slip put in it under warrenty that I might trade.I pulled my rebuilt original diff out of my truck and I put a replacement housing with set of 3.55's / a Detriot True Trac and a welded on set of Illicit relocation brackets , and installed it under my truck.The rebuilt original diff/rear-end is in storage for when I trade the truck off as it'll probably go back under the truck then
 
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Ohio5pt7

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If he can find somebody who wants to trade him complete rear diffs/housings,it shouldn't cost him anything other then a couple hours labour. The ZF diffs are fairly tough and if you find a relatively low milege one to swap in,i wouldn't be to worried about it.
I wasn't referring to him swapping used gears into his housing,i was referring to actually swapping the complete rearend, housing and all.Sorry for the confusion if you thought I meant swapping gears. If he was a little closer I have a complete 3.21 rear end that had a brand new posi/limited slip put in it under warrenty that I might trade.I pulled my rebuilt original diff out of my truck and I put a replacement housing with set of 3.55's / a Detriot True Trac and a welded on set of Illicit relocation brackets , and installed it under my truck.The rebuilt original diff/rear-end is in storage for when I trade the truck off as it'll probably go back under the truck then
How do the 3.55s compare? I've always thought those may be the best of both worlds

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Wild one

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How do the 3.55s compare? I've always thought those may be the best of both worlds

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I listened to one of the better known tuners,and I shouldn't have,lol. I did it with the idea the truck would be faster and honestly it never really got all that much quicker at the track,but my oil temps went up at freeway speeds while also giving me worse milege. If I was doing it again i'd stick with the 3.21's as for me they were every bit as fast at the track and at 80 mph on the freeway they were a lot nicer to live with. My local track is 155 miles away one way,and my truck is usually there every Friday night,so the majority of miles it gets are on the freeway at 80+mph,and the 3.21's were definitely better gears for the weekly drive up to the track.Around town I don't really notice any gain with the 3.55's over the 3.21's either,but then again my truck will blow the street tires off at will with either 3.21's or 3.55's.If I didn't have a ****load of money ******* in the 3.55's,i'd be throwing the 3.21's back in it,lol
 

Ohio5pt7

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I listened to one of the better known tuners,and I shouldn't have,lol. I did it with the idea the truck would be faster and honestly it never really got all that much quicker at the track,but my oil temps went up at freeway speeds while also giving me worse milege. If I was doing it again i'd stick with the 3.21's as for me they were every bit as fast at the track and at 80 mph on the freeway they were a lot nicer to live with. My local track is 155 miles away one way,and my truck is usually there every Friday night,so the majority of miles it gets are on the freeway at 80+mph,and the 3.21's were definitely better gears for the weekly drive up to the track.Around town I don't really notice any gain with the 3.55's over the 3.21's either,but then again my truck will blow the street tires off at will with either 3.21's or 3.55's.If I didn't have a ****load of money ******* in the 3.55's,i'd be throwing the 3.21's back in it,lol
Good to know thanks

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