Choosing headers

[Ram er]

Need to fix bolts so doing header while in there. What brand have you guys used? Anyone try out anything besides jba, afe? Not looking to brake the banks but also don’t want to wast money on junk. Getting tired of hearing the tick.

 

[Pull Ya]

For the best quality and best fitment I'd recommend ARH long tubes. They are one of the most expensive but for good reason. You can get cheaper ones I guess, but I just keep thinking that the other manufactures know what their products are worth----Contact Matt at Moe's Performance, a preferred vendor on the forum, for more information about the headers. He has quite a few different brands.
Jay

 

[HEMI_Finn]

FPNI

 

[Ram er]

I would have to wait a little while to get those. I’m worried about driving around with the leak and if it will do damage. Also with long tubes I will have no cats will I have cel?

 

[Aeon23]

Not to thread jack or anything, but is this a pretty common problem on these trucks? The exhaust manifold bolts rusting out? I noticed a pretty pronounced ticking sound a few months ago and took the truck to get checked out, shop said my exhaust manifold and bolts were rusted with some holes in them. I'm also currently looking at just replacing the whole deal with a set of decent headers and calling it a day, but wasn't sure if that's the best fix for the problem or not.

Is there any risk to driving around with a leak in the exhaust manifolds?

 

[69GWC]

Not really a rusting problem more of a manifold warping and snapping the bolts problem.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

I’m not sold on the long tubes everyone pushes. As most are not running any type of forced induction. IMO shorties will keep the torque and add power where it’s needed. Long tubes are going to take away low end torque and add power up top. How many people are driving around at high rpm? Hopefully someone can tell me why Anyone should spend another $1000 for less torque on their daily driver.
A lot of threads on here are guys that want to go headers because of manifold bolts and they are opting to be proactive and add a little power while they’re at it. Myself included

 

[Pull Ya]

I'm not pushing anything. The OP asked a question and I gave him my opinion. Clearly you have a different opinion. The more information the OP has, I'm assuming that it will be helpful in his decision making process. I assume the OP has the ability to weigh the information he receives.
Jay

 

[Quick_Shifter]

I'm not pushing anything. The OP asked a question and I gave him my opinion. Clearly you have a different opinion. The more information the OP has, I'm assuming that it will be helpful in his decision making process. I assume the OP has the ability to weigh the information he receives.
Jay

I wasn’t singling you out. I understand information is power but the forums are flooded with recommending long tube headers not just this thread. But very limited information supporting why. I apologize if you felt attacked that was not my intention. I’m not saying long tubes are bad either. Long tubes have their place but a lot of these threads are looking very similar. Speaking for myself I search for header threads and don’t see dyno charts supporting suggestions. Me personally don’t want my truck to be loud but it’s a sacrifice I’m willing to make if long tubes make that much more power. If I can search a thread that doesn’t lead me to a dead end I am happy with the results and the information will surely help others when they do a search, instead of creating a new thread to ask a question that has not really been answered

 

[69GWC]

I think a set of shorties and a good flowing set of cats and Y pipe would be a nice set up for a street truck with minimal mods.
Plus it would save a few bucks and get rid of the factory junk .

 

[crackerjack1957]

I would say with stock camshaft... shorties best option for low to midrange torque.
Performance cam, ported TB with tune needs long tubes.
https://blog.tdotperformance.ca/gui...ders-which-is-best-for-your-exhaust/#comments

 

[Pull Ya]

There seems to be a trend when reading a lot of the threads having to do with headers people talk about the different types and different manufactures. Recently it seems that a large group of people are having problems with the manifold bolts breaking and people seem to be wanting to replace the stock manifolds with "shorties", due to the cost and secondarily the gains in performance, however small that gain might be. The other group of guys, I believe are really interested in performance gains and that is why they are drawn to the long tube headers, which in many cases cost considerably more, but the performance gains are greater than the "shorties". I don't personally have the dyno charts to prove that there is a considerable increased gain in performance however they do exist and have been posted before. Keeping in mind that to realize the full performance gain you must have a tuner and your truck needs to be tuned with the headers. Some of the loss in torque you talk about is in direct proportion to the headers tube size. Most people that believe they have lost a considerable amount of torque compensate by purchasing a high stall converter. I think that Matt at Moe's Performance has copies of the dyno charts you want to see, you might contact him if your interested.
Jay

 

[Leadfoot1776James]

Have just install ARH headers without a tune . Nice power gain and sound. I have a tuner order now from moe's. Diablo t2 with hemi fever tune.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Get ARH long tubes,

Signed a JBA LT owner...

 

[S0CAL]

I run ARH LT headers with cats and a magnaflow single exhaust. I also run 4.56 gears and a Hemifever 93 tune, along with an 87 mm TB and a Vararam. There is no apparent loss of low end torque, even on my 37s. This truck will throw you in your seat. Other than the 4.56s and Trutrac LSD, the ARH LTs have been a fantastic performance enhancement.

I highly recommend ARH. You will not be disappointed.

Speaking of which, @Pull Ya where are you on this mod?!

 

[Pull Ya]

Saving my allowance every week
Jay

 

[HEMI_Finn]

I grabbed a used set that Pull Ya passed on. I get a kool-aid smile everytime I touch the gas pedal!

 

[Pull Ya]

^^^^ Thanks for reminding me
Jay

 

[Ram er]

Thanks for all the input guys. I can hold off to save for the long tubes as long as the leak will not have a negative effect on the motor other the. The current loss of power and annoying tick. What are my options for keeping cats and staying street legal? I see moe’s offers a set up for 1700 with cats is that my only option ? Also 1 7/8 1 3/4 wich is better.
Also wich studs? I’m leaning arp. But I have heard people suggesting the locking ones. What’s your take ?

I plan on keeping this truck for a while. Right now I only plan on doing bolt on mods, tunner. Down the line maybe get into cams or gears. But probably only if I need to fix something will i then upgrade Would love to go all out but kids and house enable me from doing so.

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

go long tubes. The biggest gains are there and dont worry to much about the tq curve. you will gain power across most of the RPM band. go 1 3/4" unless you plan to go forced induction or some crazy NA build then go 1 7/8". Kooks offers Green cats. Check them out they are 49 state legal!!!

Let us know when your ready, we recommend SW or Kooks. Both are high quality and great performing. Also we offer ARP hardware that will work great!