Component speaker transition

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Devin Taetsch

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Hello,
I have been researching and I am considering upgrading my stock speakers to component and throwing some tweeters in the dash.. The truck is a 2015 Big Horn Quad Cab without the alpine setup and the smaller head unit. Who has made this transition and what should I be expecting?
 

SitKneelBend

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Hello,
I have been researching and I am considering upgrading my stock speakers to component and throwing some tweeters in the dash.. The truck is a 2015 Big Horn Quad Cab without the alpine setup and the smaller head unit. Who has made this transition and what should I be expecting?
I recommend the Ram Kicker upgrade sets... 77KICK28AB.1

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Elevated 2013

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I’m getting that upgrade as we speak. I’m going with JL Audio component speakers in the front and putting the tweeters up in the dash. I was also told that you will need a DSP and an amp to really help it. I went with the iDatalink Maestro and a JL Audio amp as well. I’m also going with JL Audio speakers as well to finish the upgrade. Ive got a 13 1500 Sport Crew Cab with the Alpine system.
 

Cpap

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cam101

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There are 3 ways you can go about this. The first if you like the factory and want to keep it. You will need either a LOC or line output converter to feed and amp to power the components. Same philosophy as an LOC but different equipment a DSP. A DSP or Digital Signal Processor is used to before amplifiers in a system. It takes the input signal from the factory radio and makes it flat to be able to use your own amplifiers and you can set your system in the future for upgrades. The last would be changing out your factory radio for aftermarket . Your new radio can power the components until your able to get an amplifier to properly use. What I would recommend if you were to go this route would be to get an maestro R to keep your factory controls such as audio controls behind your steering wheel. If you choose one of the other routes I would go with the DSP because you can build on for future build.

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Cableman

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There are 3 ways you can go about this. The first if you like the factory and want to keep it. You will need either a LOC or line output converter to feed and amp to power the components. Same philosophy as an LOC but different equipment a DSP. A DSP or Digital Signal Processor is used to before amplifiers in a system. It takes the input signal from the factory radio and makes it flat to be able to use your own amplifiers and you can set your system in the future for upgrades. The last would be changing out your factory radio for aftermarket . Your new radio can power the components until your able to get an amplifier to properly use. What I would recommend if you were to go this route would be to get an maestro R to keep your factory controls such as audio controls behind your steering wheel. If you choose one of the other routes I would go with the DSP because you can build on for future build.

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You seem to understand these trucks audio systems!
The new kicker key amps flatten what ever signal you give it also i believe, if i wanna add a key sub amp could i just tap off the head units sub outputs b4 factory amp, instead of using the amppro ch41? I have the alpine system.
 

Hemi 808

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You seem to understand these trucks audio systems!
The new kicker key amps flatten what ever signal you give it also i believe, if i wanna add a key sub amp could i just tap off the head units sub outputs b4 factory amp, instead of using the amppro ch41? I have the alpine system.

I just installed the Kicker Key 500.1 sub amp. I have the Alpine system. I cut off the wires going to the sub right under the factory box and ran straight to the 500.1 as high level input. Set DC offset to On and tune as per instructions. Right now, I have it wired back to the factory Alpine sub (trying to blow it up, LOL). So only change is adding the sub amp. A good improvement so far, hits deeper and added control using the remote bass knob. Not earth shattering with the factory sub but the Key algorithm seems to work.
 

Cableman

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I just installed the Kicker Key 500.1 sub amp. I have the Alpine system. I cut off the wires going to the sub right under the factory box and ran straight to the 500.1 as high level input. Set DC offset to On and tune as per instructions. Right now, I have it wired back to the factory Alpine sub (trying to blow it up, LOL). So only change is adding the sub amp. A good improvement so far, hits deeper and added control using the remote bass knob. Not earth shattering with the factory sub but the Key algorithm seems to work.

Nice! I have a custom fiberglass box i made just like netaudios with a 12" alpine type s from my 08, fits perfect so i may as well use it!

Wonder if it would do any better hooking that amp b4 the alpine factory one.
Anyone know what speaker wires are in-between 8.4 and factory amp? Looking for a decent wiring diagram but theres so many!
 

cam101

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Your welcome

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