Cost to Replace Exhaust Manifold Studs, Gaskets and Mill Manifold

[DILLIGAF]

I have a MillerMatic 140 picked it up a FB Marketplace for a couple hundred bucks.

75/25 Gas is insane now, Just paid 155$ to fill my half tank

Welders is the #2 investment after a Car Lift, if you like to work on your vehicles like I do . Im getting up in age and have nerve damage in both my arms. So rolling on the ground like a peasant is over for me.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Check with your local dealer, mine fixed my broken bolts for me even when I was out of warranty, $0.

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

Check with your local dealer, mine fixed my broken bolts for me even when I was out of warranty, $0.

So what did they do as far as what created the broken bolts in the first place? Did they just reuse and not flatten the existing manifolds? If they used oe gaskets are you not concerned with exhaust leak? Really curious on everything they did.

 

[Black1500Ram]

So what did they do as far as what created the broken bolts in the first place? Did they just reuse and not flatten the existing manifolds? If they used oe gaskets are you not concerned with exhaust leak? Really curious on everything they did.

I’m sure they just extracted the broken studs, and put in new ones and gaskets (I didn’t keep the service receipt). I haven’t had any leaks for about 45k now.

I’m swapping my oem manifolds and bolts out for afe headers and arp bolts when I do my lifters later this month so I’m not really worried.

 

[EdGs]

Im getting up in age and have nerve damage in both my arms. So rolling on the ground like a peasant is over for me.

You all remember when we were kids and would hear our aunts and uncles grunting and groaning when getting up? Now we know why!

It's sometimes a bit of a process getting up. However, I am carrying about 80 extra pounds than in my youth.

 

[blackbetty14]

Good luck getting them Milled. Everyone I spoke with didn't have the large belt sanders they used to have back in the day. Tooling from a cylinder head shop would get eaten up due to the manifold material and they wanted alot to do it. IF you can find a belt sander with about 2ft of flat surface you could prob get it done.

 

[EdGs]

Good luck getting them Milled. Everyone I spoke with didn't have the large belt sanders they used to have back in the day. Tooling from a cylinder head shop would get eaten up due to the manifold material and they wanted alot to do it. IF you can find a belt sander with about 2ft of flat surface you could prob get it done.

I did the belt sander method on my '15. Did not get them perfectly flat, but must've been good enough because I've went almost 50k miles since then.

I also used Fel-Pro gaskets because I had already ordered them, but the Remflex gaskets look like they seal up even better, and members here rave on them.

 

[JimEd]

Just curious about your opinions. Assuming the stud is broken off flush, has anyone ever attempted the use a reverse drill to back out the stud without completely removing the manifold? I have seen some videos where the broken stud is loose enough that it seems like this could work if all the conditions were right. Any thoughts?

 

[blackbetty14]

If it’s broken off flush with the head then you have like 1.25- 1.5” of cast iron manifold before you get to the surface of the head. With the reverse u need to drill the bolt and the. Get the extractor in, grip and hope it doesn’t snap. You will have an easier time removing the manifold to get more access.

 

[blackbetty14]

I did the belt sander method on my '!5. Did not get them perfectly flat, but must've been good enough because I've went almost 50k miles since then.

I also used Fel-Pro gaskets because I had already ordered them, but the Remflex gaskets look like they seal up even better, and members here rave on them.

Close enough is good, any slight imperfections will seal up with the gasket. Remflex is the best and I’ve had them seam warped header flanges that soft copper and aluminum wouldn’t seal.

 

[DubStak]

I wouldn't trust Milling the manifolds. It really doesn't solve the problem. I've heard good success from putting aluminum heads and ARP bolts on. I'm getting it done now. Should be done tonight. I also coated the inside to reduce exhaust heat. I'm using the felpro gasket with the heat shield. I suggest changing the spark plugs and coils while u in there.

 

[Juice17]

My 2013 was 875.00 at dealer. Luckily it was done under extended power train warranty

 

[Taspeace]

I bought two sets of Dorman stainless steel exhaust bolts. The Dorman ID number for them is 03309HP. Make sure you specify "HP" if you want stainless steel. Otherwise, you'll get iron bolts. The cheapest price I found was from Summit Racing. They'll also sell you the Remflex gaskets (or Felpro if you want to keep heat shields).

 

[Daddyhas2boys]

Depending on who's doing it?
Self prolly 300-400
Local shop 1200-2000
Dealership 1500-3000

 

[DILLIGAF]

I wouldn't trust Milling the manifolds.

Just looking at the **** poor design is enough to throw them in the trash .

 

[JW2 Innovations]

Just curious about your opinions. Assuming the stud is broken off flush, has anyone ever attempted the use a reverse drill to back out the stud without completely removing the manifold? I have seen some videos where the broken stud is loose enough that it seems like this could work if all the conditions were right. Any thoughts?

I used reverse drill bit on my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 5.7 Hemi for same issue a few years back. Just go small enough that if you do have to drill into it at all, you won't hit the threads. Mine actually came right out and was happy I gave it a try. So not to strand myself at the house, I reverse drilled the broken studs with the manifold still on. Small reverse drill bit kits they sell on Amazon will have one that fits for under $25 - and I've used my kit on other items such as this more than I thought I would afterwards as well as loaned them out to friends a couple times. Hardest issue with the entire job is access. The issue back then with my vehicle, same engine, was the metal they used in the bolts that couldn't take the heat stress of hot/cold so would break/snap. At the time I used stainless steel studs and nut kit I bought off of Ebay that you install the studs with an allen wrench and then a SS nut to tighten. I used factory gaskets as I was unaware until now the other brand mentioned in this thread. Both sides in parts were around $85-$100 with shipping. Took a bit of time and a few scrapes on the hands to get to all of the locations on each one as I always forget my gloves. And I did the one that was leaking first, and then a couple weekends later the other. I didn't sand, plane, replace the manifolds themselves. Just put them right back on, though mine weren't cracked or anything.

 

[Ranhood]

Who ever you get to do it,make sure you pick up a set of Remflex 6022 gaskets to use on them,instead of the factory gaskets.The Remflexes are a fairly thick graphite gasket,that'll absorb the expansion/contraction factor with-out breaking bolts,better then the factory gaskets will.

https://www.amazon.com/Remflex-6022-Exhaust-Gasket-Engine/dp/B005V1K2ME

Remflex Inc. 6022 Remflex Exhaust Header Gasket Sets | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Remflex Exhaust Header Gasket Sets with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Header and Exhaust Manifold Gaskets at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Wild 1! Tks for the link! I'm in the gettin ready to do the same. Question... I noticed these gaskets don't have the upper metal piece angled on top. Do you think that not there would cause issues - I assume that would help to diffuse some heat. You've not seen an issues with this design?? Tks much!!

 

[Panduh]

$1079 at dealership, 4 broken studs, $600 labor. My indie shop told me to go to a dealer because they have a jig that he doesn't.

 

[Ranhood]

Gang... i appreciate the helps on this thread! I'm getting ready to do mine. QUESTION... would you say new manifolds vs milling old? My thot is at 137k miles, the manifolds have done the warping. So, mill flat vs install new that will warp in 60/70k. FYI, called my local dealer and was told they cannot even order in new mani's as apparently the new parts are going thru an "engineering phase." So... in a year maybe an improved design/materials? Share your thots if you would... tks!!

 

[EdGs]

If you're staying stock, definately mill the manifolds.

If you aren't able to get them milled, use a belt sander to true them up. You will have to work at it a bit, but it is doable, and only takes time.

So many here have had it happen. and some have had it happen more than once, especially since dealers were replacing manifolds instead of milling the old ones.

I did the belt sander method on the manifolds for my '15. Both manifolds were warped and twisted at the rear cylinders. I didn't get them totally flat. but it was enough that it has now been almost 50k miles since the repair.