5.7 Exhaust Manifold Bolts Broken - Options?

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cpath91

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Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse with this one, but I have a 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi with 90k miles that has a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the passenger side. I'm planning on fixing it but have a few questions.

Would it be best to have the existing manifold machined flat (assuming it's warped since a bolt is broken), then put a new gasket and new bolts back in? If so, any recommendations on gaskets or hardware? I've heard Remflex gaskets can help prevent this issue going forward but am not familiar with them. Or would buying a new manifold be better? I'd like to keep it stock (no headers) since I have a warranty on it that prohibits modifications.

Since the passenger side warped, would it be best to pull the driver's side manifold and do the same thing while the bolts are still intact? I'm leaning toward the machining route since I would think the metal would be "settled" after going through so many heating/cooling cycles, and it should be less prone to warping in the future. My hunch is that if I fix the passenger side that is broken and do the driver's side before it breaks, I shouldn't have to worry about this issue for the rest of the truck's life.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
 

IDSandman

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This topic has been beaten to death on here. Do a search and you will find a ton of info already discussed and the answers to all your questions. Diamler should of recalled these pos manifolds.
 

CamperMike

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It's beaten to death. Cliff notes : Plane the existing manifold flat with belt sander. New bolts. Remflex gasket.
As to your question on drivers side... it is harder to get at and I would leave it alone if not broken.
 
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cpath91

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I realize it’s a redundant question but technology changes pretty quickly and I wasn’t sure if there were any other products out there to make things easier. I’ll likely do the Remflex/machine method on both sides to be done with it for good. Thanks everyone for the advise.
 

Daw14

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Spray down fasteners with a good penetrating agent, take your time removing bolts from the heads so you minimize damaging the threads . Closest to back are the hardest to unthread .
 

Sherman Bird

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I realize it’s a redundant question but technology changes pretty quickly and I wasn’t sure if there were any other products out there to make things easier. I’ll likely do the Remflex/machine method on both sides to be done with it for good. Thanks everyone for the advise.
I've looked far and wide for self-installing parts, to no avail! ;)
 

Slinge

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I dont think I've read about anyone using magnetic resonance heaters to remove rusted manifold bolts....what say you ?
 

Sherman Bird

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I dont think I've read about anyone using magnetic resonance heaters to remove rusted manifold bolts....what say you ?
I use one often, and have for years. It takes patience, though. One must heat cycle the rusted fastener, especially on exhaust. I heat the rusted fastener just to the point of glowing red, dimly. Then, I let it cool off for about 30 minutes, and repeat that step several times. Occasionally, I'll spritz water on it to thermal shock it.

I see an overall success rate of 75% or so.
 

CamperMike

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I dont think I've read about anyone using magnetic resonance heaters to remove rusted manifold bolts....what say you ?
Usually the issue is the bolts are already broken. I don't think many of us have broken additional bolts during removal. My manifold had one broken bolt that caused the exhaust leak and all the others came out with no issue. I haven't read on here about issues removing manifold bolts that weren't already broken...
 

NCRaineman

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This topic has been beaten to death on here. Do a search and you will find a ton of info already discussed and the answers to all your questions. Diamler should of recalled these pos manifolds.
I wonder if muffler weight makes a difference. I had the stock boat anchor muffler cut off about a week after getting the truck and a flowmaster installed. That's probably 20 pounds of weight less hanging on the exhaust system.
 
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