Crank, no start unless held in "crank" key position.

[David Cleveland]

So I was driving home from work and my 83 W150 quite running. It hiccuped a few times then quite. Lucky I was able to coast into an O-Reilly's parking lot. After that, iIt would crank but not start, so I replaced the ballast resistor (BR), no change. So I did some checking around and testing. In the run position, I have power to the BR as I should. I also have power at the coil. It will crank, fire, release the key to run position, dies. If I crank and get it running and LEAVE the key in the crank position, it runs. I can disconnect the wire to the starter and it'll stay running. So here is a list of things to help diagnose. These happened in the recent past.

1. A couple of times it started hard (mini starter) and I saw a few wisps of smoke. Not sure where they came from but it was a while ago and it's been starting. I also stopped immediately when I saw the smoke.
2. One time I cranked forever and it would do the same thing, fire off but die when I released the key to the "Run" position. When I put the tilt wheel back into the full upright position, it started. weird. It didn't work this time of course.
3. When I got it running in the "crank" position and tried to drop it in gear, it cut out immediately.
4. When the neutral safety switch is disconnected, it won't fire off at all, only when it's connected.

What are some possible problems here? Ignition switch? Ignition Control Module?
I can't find a good explanation of what happens inside the control module, it's electrical voodoo in there.
If it's the switch down on the lower section of the column, I can replace that, but does it need adjusting, and does anyone have a good explanation of how to do that?

Any help would be appreciated, guys. I don't want to have it towed home from O'Reilly's, but I'm sure they won't let me work on it there forever. lol

 

[pacofortacos]

Usually only running in the crank position is a ballast resistor esp. with a dual resistor. But you changed the resistor.

Did you measure the resistor?
Is it a single or dual resistor?
Dual or single pickup plate in the distributor?
Do you have voltage at the coil when you go to the run position after the crank position?

The ignition module is pretty simple - it reads the pickup(s) plate, controls the negative of the coil, and has battery voltage.
for wiring see this thread.

orange box and small conversion harness QUESTION

Hello Mopar friends, I'm in the middle of an electronic ignition switch over for a 68 newport. I have the orange box, new electronic distributor, firewall replacement unit (voltage regulator?) small wiring harness with: * orange box plug * connector for new distributor 3 wires 1 wire goes to...

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Check for 12 volts on the "start" side of the resistor when cranking and then 12 volts on the other side of the resistor in the "run" position. I'm guessing you will find that your are missing the "run" 12 volts OR you have a bad ground.

Should be easy to find after you know that information.

 

[David Cleveland]

It’s a single resistor and a single pickup in the distributor. I didn’t measure The resistance of the BR but I did note that there was 10.x bolts on one side and 6.x on the other. I also do have power at the coil in the run position but that’s just turning the key from off to run, not crank to run.

 

[pacofortacos]

If the resistor is good AND the ignition box is grounded good, you should be able to take and put a temporary jumper from the battery to the "+" side of the coil and get it home.
Don't drive it too long like that as it will overheat the coil .

 

[David Cleveland]

Oreillys is 1.6 miles from my house. If I can get it to run and hopefully hit both lights green thatd be great to at least get it home.

 

[pacofortacos]

Ok check to make sure the box has a good ground.
IF you leave the key in "run" so that you have voltage at the coil and just jump the starter relay to crank it over - it should start and run.
This is assuming that you don't have issues other than an ignition problem.

 

[pacofortacos]

It can easily go that far.

It could also be a bad cap or rotor, coil failing, box failing though they are usually pretty dependable. I am not a fan of aftermarket boxes though, I have seen those fail and an OEM junkyard one is usually better than a new aftermarket.

Could also be the timing chain jumped one tooth - which would make it hard to start AND it would be down on power. That's easy to check quickly if it's a 318 or 360. Put the engine at TDC for #1 cylinder and pull the cap - the rotor should be pointing at the #1 plug wire on the cap AND physically be pointing to #1 cylinder.

 

[David Cleveland]

It runs great!....in the crank position. So I know the timing is okay, it just won't spark in the run position. I decided to throw an ECU on it since I was in the parking lot and, in case I got lucky, that would be the problem. Unfortunately, that wasn't it...so....the tow truck is gonna drag it home where I'll tear in and investigate some more. I'll post updates as I have them. Nothing is more frustrating than following a thread that ends with no resolution. Could be a switch but I'll dive into the Factory srvice manual a little more. So far in my ownership, there have been two great investments, the Factory Service Manual, and Towing on my insurance. lol!