Difficult Start in the Morning

[Jwrigh12]

Alright, Ive been chasing this for about a year, and coming into project season... so Im gonna try and take a crack at it!

Heres the situation. Ive got a 2014 Ram 1500, 5.7 HEMI with about 160k miles. In the mornings...especially if I havent driven the truck in a few days, Ill go to start the truck. It'll always start, but that first cold start is almost always a touch hesitant. Not exactly sure how to describe it. It doesnt feel like a battery issue (as a matter of fact, the issue has persisted even through a battery change). It almost feels like a fuel issue? The starter has also been replaced (separate issue), and still persists. It almost feels like the engine is momentarily starved for fuel. The hesitation is half a second to a second at most, always fires up though.

I thought I read somewhere on here about a year ago something about a fuel ball detent one way valve something that over time can wear and cause fuel do almost "drain" back down the line. I may be making that up. Either way, Im kinda at a loss. Need to figure out whats goin on, and any help y'all can offer would be much appreciated! Thanks so much!

 

[kdoublep]

Maybe it's an air issue? Have you checked all your intake components? TB, etc? Run a top end or intake cleaner yet?

 

[Daw14]

Might help or might not ,but retorque Your intake manifold, it is loose. Do this yearly, as they work themselves loose over time. Thanks to Wild one for this information.

 

[Wild one]

Check your intake manifold bolts

This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be...

www.ramforum.com

 

[rzr6-4]

Define "cold start". 60deg but just happens to be your first start of the day, I would lean towards a fuel issue. 10deg and windy, nothing is going to want to start as easy as it does warm so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Jwrigh12]

Maybe it's an air issue? Have you checked all your intake components? TB, etc? Run a top end or intake cleaner yet?

Yeah actually, Ive cleaned out the throttle body, new K&N filter (stock size) that is frequently cleaned, Actually just ran Seafoam through the brake booster a few weeks ago. Every few months Ill also run Seafoam (or similar) through the gas tank too. Didnt seem to help the start issue though.

Might help or might not ,but retorque Your intake manifold, it is loose. Do this yearly, as they work themselves loose over time. Thanks to Wild one for this information.

Hmmmm, thats an interesting thought. Ill have to look into that. Might be an option!

Define "cold start". 60deg but just happens to be your first start of the day, I would lean towards a fuel issue. 10deg and windy, nothing is going to want to start as easy as it does warm so I wouldn't worry about it.

HA! I live in Phoenix. So I guess a better term would be "lukewarm start". By cold start I just mean that its the first start of the day...regardless of temp. I will say though, that the colder it gets, (again, Phoenix temps) the more exaggerated the symptom is. Not ever truly struggling to start, just not immediate.

 

[RamDiver]

How old is the battery?

AFAIK, batteries in your area only last 2-3 years max, on average.

As much as I don't want to step on your 'feelings' of this not being battery-related, the SOP for most starting difficulties and/or electrical phenomena is always a battery load test.

Most auto parts stores will load test at no charge.

Brand new batteries have shown to be defective so, age doesn't much matter. I bought my own battery load tester because they're cheap and last forever, plus I like the convenience.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

All of the above posts, are spot on!

Add in to verify the PCV valve is still rattling or just replace it because they're dirt cheap and can cause serious operational issues.

.

 

[chopperman1]

If it's a longer than usual crank it could be your fuel pump. There is a check valve in there that maintains the line pressure. It could be leaking down over X days causing a long crank as pressure builds.

 

[Jwrigh12]

How old is the battery?

AFAIK, batteries in your area only last 2-3 years max, on average.

As much as I don't want to step on your 'feelings' of this not being battery-related, the SOP for most starting difficulties and/or electrical phenomena is always a battery load test.

Most auto parts stores will load test at no charge.

Brand new batteries have shown to be defective so, age doesn't much matter. I bought my own battery load tester because they're cheap and last forever, plus I like the convenience.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

All of the above posts, are spot on!

Add in to verify the PCV valve is still rattling or just replace it because they're dirt cheap and can cause serious operational issues.

.

Yeah, the battery was replaced about 6 months ago. Im hoping thats not the issue! But changing the battery didnt fix the issue. Good idea though

 

[Jwrigh12]

If it's a longer than usual crank it could be your fuel pump. There is a check valve in there that maintains the line pressure. It could be leaking down over X days causing a long crank as pressure builds.

Its not longer by much... maybe a half a second to a second at most. Is there a way to replace that check valve independently of the whole fuel pump?

 

[GTyankee]

Written by a gentleman with the sign in name Garc

Turn the ignition on for 10 seconds or so before cranking to rule out the fuel pressure.
After 100k have the plugs been replaced? With MDS active these modern trucks will sometimes hiccup on initial cold fire as they go through the startup sequence in the logic.
....................................
another comment:
If you have Push Button Start:

Just push the button once without the brake being pressed. The truck will turn on but the engine will be off still. It’ll still prime everything. And then press the brake and the button and the truck will turn on.

 

[RamRod37]

Its not longer by much... maybe a half a second to a second at most. Is there a way to replace that check valve independently of the whole fuel pump?

If it is the check valve in the pump try this next cold start turn key switch to on/run a few seconds then off and then back on again again do not start it for a few seconds and now start it and see if problem went away if so yes check valve in pump is letting fuel bleed back into tank. switching on that two times allowed the pump to prime a couple of times before starting. and if it the valve its part of the fuel pump