Double Checking Limitations

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Techtress

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New to towing with my own setup and want to make sure that my truck and trailer are within limitations so I do not do damage to either.

Truck Specs: 2011 Ram 1500 Big Horn
Factory Class IV Hitch
Heavy Duty Transmission Oil Cooler
Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
5.7L V8 Hemi
3.55 Differential
GVWR 6,800LBS
GAWR Front 3,700LBS
GAWR Rear 3,900LBS
GCWR 14,000LBS
5,129LBS Base Weight
1,650LBS Max Payload Truck
GTW 8,700LBS Max Trailer Weight
5,000LBS Max Hitch Weight
TW 1,045LBS Max Tongue Weight

Trailer Specs: 2001 Adam Two Horse Bumper Pull
GVWR 6,000LBS
GAWR Front 3,500LBS
GAWR Rear 3,500LBS
2,840LBS Base Weight
3,160LBS Max Payload
500LBS Empty Tongue Weight

Estimated 1,500LBS Cargo Weight (horse & goat or load of hay)


It looks like my limiting factor is my factory class IV hitch at 5,000LBS. It took me forever to find the tongue weight for my truck. I know you should stay within 80-85% of your max load weight and try to have a tongue weight of 10-15%. I am slightly over the 85% at 87% and my tongue weight is a little over when empty near as I can figure.

Looking to see if this setup will work and be safe. Would a weight distribution hitch be helpful? Thanks for reading, looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
 

MADDOG

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The towing capacity spreadsheet at the site below will be of great help to you to determine if you are within safe limits to tow your trailer.

Yes, a weight distribution will be very helpful.

Towing Capacity Calculator
 

rzr6-4

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I know you should stay within 80-85% of your max load weight and try to have a tongue weight of 10-15%. I am slightly over the 85% at 87% and my tongue weight is a little over when empty near as I can figure.

I'm always very annoyed when I see people stress this. If you are rated to carry a certain weight then you can carry said certain weight. There's no reason to be afraid of 100%. If you are going to be at 100% all day every day then ya you would probly want to change your set up, but once in a while is no problem. There's no need to go buy a 2500 so you can pull 1500 rated capacities every few months.

None of your numbers look problematic to me, should be good to run.

Never used/needed a distribution hitch myself, which is to say you don't NEED it but maybe it would pull nicer, idk.
 

mtofell

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Numbers are probably good but I'm confused on one thing: Class IV hitch is rated up to 10,000# (see screen shot).

Also, without knowing how much you plan to travel with in the truck we really can't answer your question. Remember, every person, piece of firewood and latte you put in the truck, along with the trailer tongue weight, is counted against that 1650# payload

And I agree with @rzr6-4 No reason to be afraid of 100%. There is a plenty big factor of safety built into that.

With weights and towing I always pay big attention to tires - no more than 5 years old, proper inflation and load rating, plenty of tread left.
 

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crash68

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It looks like my limiting factor is my factory class IV hitch at 5,000LBS
A Class IV 2" receiver hitch is good for at least 10K lbs. That 5000 lbs you see is the rating of you used a ball on the bumper itself.
Your going to want a a Weight Distribution Hitch and they need to be set up with the truck and trailer fully loaded ready to go camping. This rules out the RV dealership setting it up for you. Best way is to use a CAT scale to weigh the truck and trailer with WDH engaged and then just the truck. That will give you all the numbers needed to confirm the tongue weight percentage and adjust the WDH accordingly.
 

Zoe Saldana

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New to towing with my own setup and want to make sure that my truck and trailer are within limitations so I do not do damage to either.

Truck Specs: 2011 Ram 1500 Big Horn
Factory Class IV Hitch
Heavy Duty Transmission Oil Cooler
Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
5.7L V8 Hemi
3.55 Differential
GVWR 6,800LBS
GAWR Front 3,700LBS
GAWR Rear 3,900LBS
GCWR 14,000LBS
5,129LBS Base Weight
1,650LBS Max Payload Truck
GTW 8,700LBS Max Trailer Weight
5,000LBS Max Hitch Weight
TW 1,045LBS Max Tongue Weight

Trailer Specs: 2001 Adam Two Horse Bumper Pull
GVWR 6,000LBS
GAWR Front 3,500LBS
GAWR Rear 3,500LBS
2,840LBS Base Weight
3,160LBS Max Payload
500LBS Empty Tongue Weight

Estimated 1,500LBS Cargo Weight (horse & goat or load of hay)


It looks like my limiting factor is my factory class IV hitch at 5,000LBS. It took me forever to find the tongue weight for my truck. I know you should stay within 80-85% of your max load weight and try to have a tongue weight of 10-15%. I am slightly over the 85% at 87% and my tongue weight is a little over when empty near as I can figure.

Looking to see if this setup will work and be safe. Would a weight distribution hitch be helpful? Thanks for reading, looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
1,650LBS Max Payload Truck

This is the simplest number for you.


-????? Tongue Weight of 1500 Cargo Weight - horse, hay
- 500 Empty Tongue Weight
- ???? Tongue weight for water and misc items
- 200 lb driver
- ???? tools
- ??? passengers

You are probably OK.

Get a weight distribution hitch.






•Understanding Payload Capacity​

Payload capacity is the maximum weight of cargo—including passengers—that you can safely load into your truck. This weight is calculated by subtracting your truck's curb weight (its weight when empty) from the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), which is provided by the manufacturer.
 
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Grams

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While Weight Distributing Hitches are widely used/recommended and serve at the useful purpose of assisting the tow-vehicle maintain somewhat-equal weights on it’s own axles on Level Ground….I don’t like them….and I don’t use them.
Here’s why:
Under ordinary, non-towing conditions, the tow-vehicle are not expected to carry equal weights among all axles. The truck, in its design, its anticipated that weights are not equally shared by the axles…. Nothing New here.
A WDH “stiffens” the axle-combination across all axles, two-vehicle And trailer.

At first this appears desireable. It works to prevent an unloaded steering-axle (loss of steering authority) and it prevents overload of rear axle (due to undesirable excess tongue-weight). It also helps counter headlamp-beams from blinding oncoming drivers….due to excess cargo and/or tongue wt.
It does this by re-distributing the load using a system of spirngs and shackles to impart a “twist”…. transferring loads and strain upon the tow-vehicle hitch and frame.
The result is a more-level tow-vehicle throughout the trip.

The thing I hate about it is: The ride, and the torture it placed upon the tow vehicle. This is not a problem for vehicles designed for it. I’m not convinced they are so-designed.

The truck has it’s tow-limitations specified.
1-There’s a stated maximum towing capacity: This is the amount of total or gross weight of the trailer.
That should never be exceeded for tow-vehicle structural and braking limitations.
2-There’s a stated maximum tongue-weight: This is the amount of weight for which the tow vehicles structure and frame is designed.

Trailers should also be largely self-supporting, I.E., they should be within their own limitations of cargo and gross weight … and they should have that weight so-distributed upon the trailer to “balance” properly…with the result that 10-15% of that weight should rest upon the hitch. This helps prevent “sway” and assures that the tongue weight is well placed upon the tow-vehicle’s hitch-point for tow-vehicle control of the trailer.

The WDH can mask excess tongue weight and it’s unfortunate, but most users are not conflicted by this improper trailer loading when a WDH levels out the combination.
WDH’s are commonly used to “mask” an improper tow-vehicle-and-trailer weight-combination. However, even if that is carefully considered and is not allowed to occur, it is troublesome.

The most egregious problem I personally have with WDH’s are that they “make rigid” the combination and prevent “fliex” between the Toe-Vehicle (TV) and trailer.
Imagine this:
You are driving thru or across a “swale”…. a low-area. If you are using a WDH…. the TV frame is made-rigid with the trailer … and the TV steer-axle is momentarily made “light” …and then the rear axle made-light (reducing traction) ….and the TV Frame is highly-stressed throughout.

Imagine also that you are approaching a raised Rail-Road crossing:
As the TV approaches the embankment, the steer axle becomes more-heavily-loaded while the rear/traction axle is Un-loaded…and the Combined Gross Wt is transferred thru the frames to the TV steer axle and the trailer axles…. and does this by stressing the TV Frame via the WDH.

Would we accept a trailer that stiffens our combination laterally?… where the hitch used a transfer-mechanism to pre-load the TV frame in a plan to prevent or resist turning left/right ?
That is what the WDH does longitudinally. It prevents the combo from being able to “flex” vertically. (This is why a WDH seems to make the ride in the TV harsher.)

So a WDH has the effect of constantly varying the load and the authority of the steer and the traction axles of the TV. And it does that by using the Frame and Hitch of the TV to force the combo to behave as One-Long-Assembly.

My usual “tow” is a 5K lb Airstream. When we participated in the Airstream Club activities, it was a common recommendation from others that we get/use a WDH.
In actual fact, one of our closer club-friends actually GAVE us one.
It sits on the concrete floor in the corner of the hangar.

I’ve come to believe, that in some cases, trailer salesmen upsell customers on WDH with the full knowledge that users commonly exceed the towing-capacity of their TV’s using the larger trailer they’re selling.
Even if that is not the case, it’s an additional sales-item they push, …when in fact the customer is encouraged to believe they are increasing some “safety margin”…. Not True if one realizes that WDH will frequently reduce steering authority and reduce TV traction on uneven roadways. (while decreasing ride-comfort and increasing vehicle structural-strain.)

The answer (in my opinion) is to adhere to tow-capacities and hitch/tongue weight limits using an ordinary ball hitch.

If the trailer places the tow vehicle in an unacceptable attitude when connected…. and you want to tow that thing anyway…. Reduce the cargo wt. ..and/or… get a larger, more-capable tow-vehicle.

IMO
 
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PolarisCobra

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The bars on the WDH are designed to flex, so the truck/trailer combination is not 'rigid'. It is stiffened some, but within design tolerances. Many (most) travel trailer owners use a WDH, and they don't damage the truck or the trailer, unless something is overloaded. I have seen posts on-line of people having trouble with campers with travelling to Alaska, but they also say that the roads there are very bumpy, so I think that is an outlier.

Most of the WDH setups use bars that sit on a perch mounted to the trailer, the friction between them provide resistance to sway. I would agree that a properly loaded trailer is less likely to sway, but I will take any help I can get in that area, if it avoids a truck and trailer getting out of control.

We need to understand that a WDH does not increase cargo capacity, or eliminate the need to buy mindful of how a trailer is loaded to maintain proper tongue weight.

In the end, it depends on the truck (you might not need it with a 2500/3500), the trailer (a smaller single axle trailer) and a number of other factors for sure.
 

nlambert182

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Lots have already said it, but to "try" and make this as simple as possible for you.....

Your truck payload is listed at 1,650 lbs (make sure you're pulling this number from the door sticker of YOUR truck and not online). You'll need to estimate the amount of weight you'll put on or in the truck before you hitch up. Add up people, toolboxes, running boards, bed covers, etc... Subtract that number from the payload. THAT is your available payload.

The trailer GVWR is 6,000 lbs. Tongue weight will be difficult to estimate exactly since the load can move on a horse trailer. Estimate 12-15% of the GVWR as the tongue weight. Maybe 900 lbs worst case.

Subtract that number from your available payload. That will give you a quick answer.

To get the final true answer, run the truck and trailer across a CAT scale fully loaded.
 

Zoe Saldana

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62Blazer

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In my opinion you are way over thinking this. Yes, you should consider the capacity of the truck and what trailer you are pulling, but in your case this is a small trailer and well under the rating of the truck. The posted empty weight of the trailer and estimated load is less than 4,500 lbs., and is only about half of what the truck is rated to tow.
A few other comments:
If the truck has a factory tow rating of 8,700 lbs. then it doesn't have a factory tow hitch that is only rated at 5,000 lbs. If the factory installed tow hitch was only rated at 5,000 lbs. that would limit the truck's rating to 5,000 lbs.
In any case, it's not really a case that you will "damage" something. Not like the truck is going to randomly explode or something. It's more about comfort driving in regards to how well it handles the load going down the road at the speed limit.
Agree with another comment about only going to a certain % of the rated load. The manufacturers recommended maximum loads are usually very conservative. If they say you can two 8,700 lbs. there is no reason you should worry about towing up to 100%. The safety police will chime in, but trucks are typically capable of towing quite a bit more. Not saying you should, especially if inexperienced.....
Not sure you really need a weight distributing hitch...again, this is only a 4,500 lb. tandem axle trailer (which should be pretty stable).
The biggest thing is to make sure your truck has a brake controller and the trailer has functioning brakes. That size tandem axle trailer should have brakes on at least 1 axle. Legally most states require that size trailer to have brakes.
 

Ritchie_Rich

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While Weight Distributing Hitches are widely used/recommended and serve at the useful purpose of assisting the tow-vehicle maintain somewhat-equal weights on it’s own axles on Level Ground….I don’t like them….and I don’t use them.
Here’s why:
Under ordinary, non-towing conditions, the tow-vehicle are not expected to carry equal weights among all axles. The truck, in its design, its anticipated that weights are not equally shared by the axles…. Nothing New here.
A WDH “stiffens” the axle-combination across all axles, two-vehicle And trailer.

At first this appears desireable. It works to prevent an unloaded steering-axle (loss of steering authority) and it prevents overload of rear axle (due to undesirable excess tongue-weight). It also helps counter headlamp-beams from blinding oncoming drivers….due to excess cargo and/or tongue wt.
It does this by re-distributing the load using a system of spirngs and shackles to impart a “twist”…. transferring loads and strain upon the tow-vehicle hitch and frame.
The result is a more-level tow-vehicle throughout the trip.

The thing I hate about it is: The ride, and the torture it placed upon the tow vehicle. This is not a problem for vehicles designed for it. I’m not convinced they are so-designed.

The truck has it’s tow-limitations specified.
1-There’s a stated maximum towing capacity: This is the amount of total or gross weight of the trailer.
That should never be exceeded for tow-vehicle structural and braking limitations.
2-There’s a stated maximum tongue-weight: This is the amount of weight for which the tow vehicles structure and frame is designed.

Trailers should also be largely self-supporting, I.E., they should be within their own limitations of cargo and gross weight … and they should have that weight so-distributed upon the trailer to “balance” properly…with the result that 10-15% of that weight should rest upon the hitch. This helps prevent “sway” and assures that the tongue weight is well placed upon the tow-vehicle’s hitch-point for tow-vehicle control of the trailer.

The WDH can mask excess tongue weight and it’s unfortunate, but most users are not conflicted by this improper trailer loading when a WDH levels out the combination.
WDH’s are commonly used to “mask” an improper tow-vehicle-and-trailer weight-combination. However, even if that is carefully considered and is not allowed to occur, it is troublesome.

The most egregious problem I personally have with WDH’s are that they “make rigid” the combination and prevent “fliex” between the Toe-Vehicle (TV) and trailer.
Imagine this:
You are driving thru or across a “swale”…. a low-area. If you are using a WDH…. the TV frame is made-rigid with the trailer … and the TV steer-axle is momentarily made “light” …and then the rear axle made-light (reducing traction) ….and the TV Frame is highly-stressed throughout.

Imagine also that you are approaching a raised Rail-Road crossing:
As the TV approaches the embankment, the steer axle becomes more-heavily-loaded while the rear/traction axle is Un-loaded…and the Combined Gross Wt is transferred thru the frames to the TV steer axle and the trailer axles…. and does this by stressing the TV Frame via the WDH.

Would we accept a trailer that stiffens our combination laterally?… where the hitch used a transfer-mechanism to pre-load the TV frame in a plan to prevent or resist turning left/right ?
That is what the WDH does longitudinally. It prevents the combo from being able to “flex” vertically. (This is why a WDH seems to make the ride in the TV harsher.)

So a WDH has the effect of constantly varying the load and the authority of the steer and the traction axles of the TV. And it does that by using the Frame and Hitch of the TV to force the combo to behave as One-Long-Assembly.

My usual “tow” is a 5K lb Airstream. When we participated in the Airstream Club activities, it was a common recommendation from others that we get/use a WDH.
In actual fact, one of our closer club-friends actually GAVE us one.
It sits on the concrete floor in the corner of the hangar.

I’ve come to believe, that in some cases, trailer salesmen upsell customers on WDH with the full knowledge that users commonly exceed the towing-capacity of their TV’s using the larger trailer they’re selling.
Even if that is not the case, it’s an additional sales-item they push, …when in fact the customer is encouraged to believe they are increasing some “safety margin”…. Not True if one realizes that WDH will frequently reduce steering authority and reduce TV traction on uneven roadways. (while decreasing ride-comfort and increasing vehicle structural-strain.)

The answer (in my opinion) is to adhere to tow-capacities and hitch/tongue weight limits using an ordinary ball hitch.

If the trailer places the tow vehicle in an unacceptable attitude when connected…. and you want to tow that thing anyway…. Reduce the cargo wt. ..and/or… get a larger, more-capable tow-vehicle.

IMO
Agree with this. And I will add that a WDH places undue stress on the trailer frame (which I don’t think they’re designed for). JMO.
 
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Grams

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@PolarisCobra

For illustration purposes….

Imagine that someone is pulling a trailer at maximum gross weight for that trailers axles….using a WDH….and crossing a swale…. for some period of time the TV steer axle is carrying More than it is designed-for…..and the trailer axles are carrying more weight than they are designed for.
While the TV rear axle is no longer carrying the trailer tongue-weight.

While no WDH mfr’r will endorse or admit it….many operators use a WDH in order to tow heavier loads than the TV should.

I believe a combination should be felxible both left/right as well as up/down …and that each vehicle should be responsible for it ‘s own weight, with the sole-exception of the tongue-weight being shared.

Note that full-time dedicated tow-rigs such as 18-wheelers do that….without any weight-distribution hitch mechanism.
 
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PolarisCobra

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There is a safety margin built into the specifications of the axle ratings of trucks and trailers. Going over a typical swale, or into or out of a parking lot isn't going to cause so much stress as to break things (people have been doing it for years without incident).

The anti-sway functionality built into today's WDH products have been proven to reduce swaying, and accidents.

Comparing the load carrying capacity of a half ton pickup to an 18 wheeler tractor doesn't make a lot of sense to me. They are completely different, and designed for different tasks. They put air ride seats in the cabs of those trucks for a reason. The springs are so stiff that drivers fillings would get rattled out of there teeth without them.

For a light, single axle camper, a WDH is not needed in most cases. When you get to a 6000 - 7000 pound, 30 ft double axle camper, they help with sag of the truck, better ride and less sway. They do need to be configured properly so nothing is overloaded, and do not increase the carrying capacity of the TV. It's still important to load the truck and trailer properly to avoid overloading, and keep appropriate tongue weights.
 

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@PolarisCobra

Note that full-time dedicated tow-rigs such as 18-wheelers do that….without any weight-distribution hitch mechanism.
If you are referring to "semi's" the trailers are attached in a 5th wheel style, meaning the trailer is attached to the tow vehicle somewhere over the rear axle. You don't have the trailer weight leveraged off the rear of the vehicle like a bumper pull trailer. Meaning you are not pulling weight off the front axle. You don't use any special WDH or sway control hitches in a 5th wheel or gooseneck setup because of this.
You really can't compare a 18-wheeler/semi with a 5th wheel style trailer to a 1500 truck with a bumper pull trailer.
 

Grams

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If you are referring to "semi's" the trailers are attached in a 5th wheel style, meaning the trailer is attached to the tow vehicle somewhere over the rear axle. You don't have the trailer weight leveraged off the rear of the vehicle like a bumper pull trailer. Meaning you are not pulling weight off the front axle. You don't use any special WDH or sway control hitches in a 5th wheel or gooseneck setup because of this.
You really can't compare a 18-wheeler/semi with a 5th wheel style trailer to a 1500 truck with a bumper pull trailer.
That’s absolutely correct. It is similar to a 5th wheel….. one major advantage being there is no restriction to vertical flexibility (in addition to the trailer having a portion of it’s weight applied to the rear axles and minimally influencing the steer-axle)….. Unlike a WDH which frequently varies steer-axle authority and diminishes the traction-axle.

Certainly a 5th wheel has major advantages over a bumper-pull in most-respects. But if one is going to be saddled with bumper-pull…. a WDH carries liabilities the salesmen don’t talk about.
 
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Ritchie_Rich

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I don’t use a WDH with my TT. My thoughts are if you need one, you either need more truck or less trailer. I think they are so people can tow more trailer than they should. I do use a sway control device though. JMO
 
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