DRL Dedicated circuit install

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Cshaffer126

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I have a 2018 Bighorn that did not come with the factory projectors (or drl wire) I went ahead and installed factory projectors and the conversion kit and used OBD to enable DRLs using the turn signals.

I have heard that running the turn signals at full brightness will burn them out. Is there any truth to this? How long do they last ? Can you change the voltage without a dedicated circuit?


Is it possible to install a dedicated circuit ?

I know it’s a lot but any info would be greatly appreciated. I may be looking into switchbacks if I can indeed install a dedicated circuit.



I have used the search feature and haven’t found much.
 

crazykid1994

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Not entirely sure but I’ve got switchback led plug and play in my turn signal/park lamp spot. I know with alpha there is a way to turn on a dedicated drl circuit but I’m not sure myself what that entails. Maybe post in the alphaobd thread

3721B5D6-57A0-4ED1-931D-23610C9F0FFA.jpeg
 
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Cshaffer126

Cshaffer126

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That thread is impossible to digest, it honestly needs its own sub forum.

I think the major questions I have are:

do they burn out on 12 volts?

How can I install a drl circuit?
 

JB1

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I've had mine at full brightness for 1-1/2 years with zero issues

C7A8A023-71C5-464E-AA34-4A5C9BC5B7A6.jpeg

2301665F-9274-4751-837A-062562E7A866.jpeg
 

Jimmy07

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I have a 2018 Bighorn that did not come with the factory projectors (or drl wire) I went ahead and installed factory projectors and the conversion kit and used OBD to enable DRLs using the turn signals.

I have heard that running the turn signals at full brightness will burn them out. Is there any truth to this? How long do they last ? Can you change the voltage without a dedicated circuit?


Is it possible to install a dedicated circuit ?

I know it’s a lot but any info would be greatly appreciated. I may be looking into switchbacks if I can indeed install a dedicated circuit.



I have used the search feature and haven’t found much.
Yes, you can add the dedicated DRL circuit for each headlight, but you have to check a connector to see if you have two wires coming from the BCM first in order to know exactly what you need to do. Lift up the fuse box and rotate it out of the way enough to get to the big front end connector underneath it. Disconnect it and look at the wires coming in the back of the connector half that has the male pins. See if you have a white wire with yellow stripe where the red arrow is pointing (position 8). nCuggBf.jpg

As far as the voltage, yes, you can change it. When you set the turn signals as dedicated DRLs, the target voltage is 7.4v. When you set the DRL location as “turn signals”, the target voltage is 13v. OBVIOUSLY, feeding the led board 76% more voltage is going to reduce the life of it.
 
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1500ram12

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Yes you can add the dedicated drl circuit. I did it on my 2018 tradesman. You can enable it and adjust the voltage through alphaobd. When enabled it is set at 7.4v but can be increased up to 11.4v


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Cshaffer126

Cshaffer126

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Thank you all for the great info. I’ll definitely look into a dedicated install. Going to at least change the voltage to 7.4.
 

mtnrider

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I haven't pulled mine to look but has anyone found those extra wires on a Big Horn trim (or a truck that didn't come with the upgraded headlights)? I'm guessing the wires are not there if your truck didn't come with dedicated driving lights?

,
 

Jimmy07

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I haven't pulled mine to look but has anyone found those extra wires on a Big Horn trim (or a truck that didn't come with the upgraded headlights)? I'm guessing the wires are not there if your truck didn't come with dedicated driving lights?

,
My 2017 tradesman did not have them, but every SLT I’ve looked at has them (from the BCM to the front end connector).
 
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Cshaffer126

Cshaffer126

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I wonder if my Big Horn has them? The issue is when the dealer tried to activate the DRL code it took it but it didn’t work. I since read that it didn’t have the dedicated circuit for it.

Am I missing something ?
 

Jimmy07

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I wonder if my Big Horn has them? The issue is when the dealer tried to activate the DRL code it took it but it didn’t work. I since read that it didn’t have the dedicated circuit for it.

Am I missing something ?
Yes. You most likely (I’d bet on it) have the DRL wires coming from the BCM to the front end connector, BUT, you won’t have them continuing from the other half of the front end connector to the headlight connector. That’s the only thing my post with pics has you confirming- to make sure they are at least there from the BCM. If they are, then you get a hold of @Mpgrimm2 and have him set you up with two pigtails FOR A 1500 (2500 has one different terminal) to insert into the front end connector that will continue on to pin 4 of each 14 pin headlight connector.
 
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Cshaffer126

Cshaffer126

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Yes. You most likely (I’d bet on it) have the DRL wires coming from the BCM to the front end connector, BUT, you won’t have them continuing from the other half of the front end connector to the headlight connector. That’s the only thing my post with pics has you confirming- to make sure they are at least there from the BCM. If they are, then you get a hold of @Mpgrimm2 and have him set you up with two pigtails FOR A 1500 (2500 has one different terminal) to insert into the front end connector that will continue on to pin 4 of each 14 pin headlight connector.


Okay awesome I’ll take a look when I get back from my work trip. Now say I have the connector and the pigtails will it work with my conversion harness?
 

Jimmy07

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Okay awesome I’ll take a look when I get back from my work trip. Now say I have the connector and the pigtails will it work with my conversion harness?
Yes they will. I believe he supplies two wires with terminals on one end that will insert into the front end connector. Then, you run out extra wire spliced to those that will actually reach the headlights. He may have the terminals on hand that insert into the pin 4 of the 14 pin headlight connector, so ask him and I’m sure he’ll know exactly what you need.
 

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Thank you all for the great info. I’ll definitely look into a dedicated install. Going to at least change the voltage to 7.4.

Thanks

7.4 is the same as parking light brightness....what’s the point of that, just turn the dial, at least do 11.4
 
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Cshaffer126

Cshaffer126

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Thanks

7.4 is the same as parking light brightness....what’s the point of that, just turn the dial, at least do 11.4
Haha right on. Are there any actually documented cases of these leds burning out?
 

JB1

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Haha right on. Are there any actually documented cases of these leds burning out?

None that I could find

Here’s the guy that started all this “concern”

I think the corners are just the corner lamps in the lights front and rear. I think the DRLs would behave similar to what happens in my sister's GC Summit; at daytime, they are full brightness and they dim down when the headlights are on. The 7.4 V we are seeing in the settings may be the dimmed target voltage.

The target voltages in her GC Summit which has factory HIDs and LED DRLs is below:
Left Side DRL Voltage Target: 7.4 V
Right Side DRL Voltage Target: 7.4 V
Left Low Beam Voltage Regulation: 13 V
Left High Beam Voltage Regulation: 13 V
Right Low Beam Voltage Regulation: 13 V
Right High Beam Voltage Regulation: 13 V
Left Front Corner Voltage: 13 V
Right Front Corner Voltage: 13 V
Left Rear Corner Voltage: 13 V
Right Rear Corner Voltage: 13 V

EDIT: Just went out and checked. After changing to dedicated, the DRLs stay the same brightness with or without the headlights being on. Going to change it back to turn signal and see if it behaves differently.
 

Jimmy07

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I’ve tested all situations with a volt meter a few weeks ago. Dedicated DRL- 7.8v
Parking lights- 7.8v
DRLs set as turn signals- 12.8v
Couldn’t catch the voltage when the turn signals flashed, but I’ll say 12.8v, because they are the exact same brightness as when the the turn signals are set as DRLs.
If the running life of the led board is x amount of hours at normal use, then science will say that feeding them 12.8v continuously as DRLs, the life will be severely shortened. Of course, this will be untestable, unless one person runs dedicated and another runs turn signal DRL for the same amount of time. Sure, you can have a bunch of guys say “I’ve been running them like this for a while”, but that doesn’t really mean anything.
Edit: not to mention how hot the led chips get when fed 75% more voltage continuously.
 

JB1

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I’ll be the full voltage person in your little test :wave:
 
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