Loudram is right. Double-check batt (load test), and loosen and wiggle your ground connections. You might check for codes, but below could be some of the issues.
Other things to check (from more likely to less likely):
1) Wiggle or swap your start relay - some owners on older rams have had start relays go bad. It's under the hood in front of the battery. I forget the number. I just bought some for my 2012.
2) Starter - If after wiggling/swapping your start relay and verifying your battery connections/cables/ect, the starter might be something to look at. It IS a 2011. The actual electrical contactor inside the starter solenoid can become pitted after several thousand engagements and when they get like that they don't make proper connection. And/or, the brushes inside the starter eventually wear out. Just depends on the number of 'starts'. Then what'll happen is there will be a period where the worn brushes can't quite reach ...and will 'almost' make connection to the starter drive's commutator ...and 'may' start or might not. If it turns over real slow that's a pretty good indication. If everything else above seems ok, check your start, or have it checked at the parts store or by your mechanic.
3) Inspect and clean inside your throttle body with throttle body cleaner and a soft brush? It doesn't take much build-up of old-gas in the bore or on the throttle blade to throw off smooth operation, cause poor idle, surging, dying at stop signs.
4) MAF sensor might need cleaning or checking. Also, ensure your air filter isn't somehow plugged (rodent nest?). It can happen.
5) Vacuum hose with a crack or hole in it. (or other vacuum leak). Can cause eratic behavior, surging and rough idle.
6) PCV valve can go bad, or a crack in the PCV hoses (which can happen)
