Exhaust manifold bolts?

[18CrewDually]

Anyone know the tightening sequence and Torque spec (I believe it's 18ft. Lbs) 2016 1500 5.7 hemi

 

[EdGs]

Sand went REALLY well! I used the 120 grit and kept moving it around on the belt. The first one to hit was the center and the last was where the bolts snapped

Good job!

Just takes time.

You'll be surprised how different she sounds on startup, and you will notice every other Ram suffering broken studs that pass by you.

 

[jr27236]

Good job!

Just takes time.

You'll be surprised how different she sounds on startup, and you will notice every other Ram suffering broken studs that pass by you.

Yeah I'm hoping the improvement is noticeable. Thank god I have a mig welder to get the studs out. One was below flush with the head the other just had the head snapped, but I just couldn't get a Visegrip to lock on tight enough, so I just welded a nut to it.

 

[rzr6-4]

Yeah I'm hoping the improvement is noticeable. Thank god I have a mig welder to get the studs out. One was below flush with the head the other just had the head snapped, but I just couldn't get a Visegrip to lock on tight enough, so I just welded a nut to it.

When I did mine, it was broke below flush like yours and took about 15 tries to get the nut to stick. After very gingerly torqueing for 10 min, I realized I was making no progress......the threads were stripped as well. Lots of spinning it with the impact to loosen it and pulling with the vise grip inertia puller, I finally got it out. Only took 4hrs and most of my sanity.

Was able to re-tap the hole with same sized thread and use standard bolts, just didn't torque that one down quite as tight.

 

[jr27236]

Well I got it all done. Did a heat cycle and rechecked the torque. Bought a new heat shield also because I wasn't doing all that work and putting a broken heat shield back on. THANK YOU to everyone for you advise and help with my questions.

 

[aronbrtn]

Gonna follow this a well. I'm pretty certain I have a broken stud and exhaust leak. I am due for inspection so i am probably gonna let the shop handle this one. If it was warmer and I wasn't fresh off a back surgery I'd tackle it. Had issues with my 2005 Dodge Ram Hemi and removed and installed the headers myself. That was at least 10 years ago when it was much easier for me to do that kind of work.

Im putting on remflex gaskets and ARP hardware after milling down the OEM manifolds and crossing my fingers as this looks to be a solid choice. Hoping someone has tried this as well and can give advice!

 

[PA Ram]

Im putting on remflex gaskets and ARP hardware after milling down the OEM manifolds and crossing my fingers as this looks to be a solid choice. Hoping someone has tried this as well and can give advice!

Will be doing mine sometime after Christmas in my son-in-law's shop. I'll be back to work a week or so before Christmas so after Christmas I'll have the extra cash to tackle my projects. Manifold, front sway bar and replacing front struts with spacers for rough country lifted loaded struts. I thought about getting headers which I did on my 2005 Ram when bolts broke, but I don't want to pay a ton of money and lower cost options have such varying reviews. So I am probably gonna sand the stock manifold. Extra money saved will go towards parts for sway bar and struts which I'll do at the same time.

 

[jr27236]

Im putting on remflex gaskets and ARP hardware after milling down the OEM manifolds and crossing my fingers as this looks to be a solid choice. Hoping someone has tried this as well and can give advice!

Well you can't go wrong with that combo. The ARP hardware is definitely pricey. But in addition and I believe to be the most important part is to resurface the stock manifolds if you plan to reuse them. As you seen in my pictures they were way out of plane with each other and that equates to the addition torque needed to pull that port closed and seal and definitely is why they broke. I purchased a 6x48 belt sander and used 120 grit belts and they did an amazing job and it took no time. As for advise on the job .... TAKE YOUR TIME. If you come across broken bolts, take your time in removing them, I used my MIG welder and it worked beautifully. My driver's side seems to be fine and I have only done my pass side as of date which I'm glad because the DS is a little more difficult with the column and oil dip stick.

 

[jr27236]

Will be doing mine sometime after Christmas in my son-in-law's shop. I'll be back to work a week or so before Christmas so after Christmas I'll have the extra cash to tackle my projects. Manifold, front sway bar and replacing front struts with spacers for rough country lifted loaded struts. I thought about getting headers which I did on my 2005 Ram when bolts broke, but I don't want to pay a ton of money and lower cost options have such varying reviews. So I am probably gonna sand the stock manifold. Extra money saved will go towards parts for sway bar and struts which I'll do at the same time.

I don't even think spending the money on Shorty's are worth any return in performance. Plus you will probably be fighting them on. They sanded real fast and nice when I did mine. Looks liked a perfect factory finish.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

So my time has come and I have the broken manifold bolts. Now as for replacement bolts, I see guys recommend Dorman stainless kit 03309hp. But I always thought stainless was a "softer" metal and would suspect based on that I will be revisiting this issue again in the future. So WHAT hardware is the best or strongest and most proven to withstand future issues. I will be milling and reusing the stock cast manifolds most likely.I

So my time has come and I have the broken manifold bolts. Now as for replacement bolts, I see guys recommend Dorman stainless kit 03309hp. But I always thought stainless was a "softer" metal and would suspect based on that I will be revisiting this issue again in the future. So WHAT hardware is the best or strongest and most proven to withstand future issues. I will be milling and reusing the stock cast manifolds most likely.

I bought a pair of 'seasoned' exhaust manifolds from a member here. 117K miles on them, I believe. I had them planed at a machine shop and have the Remflex gaskets ready to install with all new Mopar hardware. I went with the Mopar nuts and bolts mostly because of the ease of extraction should one break in the head. I believe all my bolts are steel as some updated bolts for the rear Mopar was made out of stainless steel just for that location. I believe that the stainless may be stronger in holding capacity, it is more brittle in shear. I don't know if extracting them with the welding process will work as easily as if a steel stud had broken in the head. It surely won't be any easier to drill out. On a side note, you can check the bolts with a magnet. The magnet will stick to steel but may not, and I repeat, may not stick to the stainless steel. You may have to identify the stainless by color.

 

[18CrewDually]

I bought a pair of 'seasoned' exhaust manifolds from a member here. 117K miles on them, I believe. I had them planed at a machine shop and have the Remflex gaskets ready to install with all new Mopar hardware. I went with the Mopar nuts and bolts mostly because of the ease of extraction should one break in the head. I believe all my bolts are steel as some updated bolts for the rear Mopar was made out of stainless steel just for that location. I believe that the stainless may be stronger in holding capacity, it is more brittle in shear. I don't know if extracting them with the welding process will work as easily as if a steel stud had broken in the head. It surely won't be any easier to drill out. On a side note, you can check the bolts with a magnet. The magnet will stick to steel but not the stainless steel.

Depending on grade of stainless, and since it is an alloy comprised of iron, a magnet may still attract.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Depending on grade of stainless, and since it is an alloy comprised of iron, a magnet may still attract.

Thank you, I will amend my post.

 

[jr27236]

Well did the drivers side yesterday and did the same procedure with sanding the plane on the belt sander. This one had the same rear broken studs. This side is definitely more of a PIA with the dip stick in the way but nothing a little patience and persuasion couldn't fix. One thing I noticed on the refacing is that the same second port from the flange hit first and had to be worked for a while before the next surface contacted. I don't know if this is a warping or a casting issue? Got lucky on the extraction and the long broken bolt spun right out. Had the build out a weld on the flush one and then I welded a nut on and just took my time and got it to come out. Reassembly went smoother then removal. FYI I removed both the heat shield and manifold down the back and muscles the cat over as I brought it through. Pics below so you can see the sanding process (I know you all want pictures lol)

 

[danielmid]

Well did the drivers side yesterday and did the same procedure with sanding the plane on the belt sander. This one had the same rear broken studs. This side is definitely more of a PIA with the dip stick in the way but nothing a little patience and persuasion couldn't fix. One thing I noticed on the refacing is that the same second port from the flange hit first and had to be worked for a while before the next surface contacted. I don't know if this is a warping or a casting issue? Got lucky on the extraction and the long broken bolt spun right out. Had the build out a weld on the flush one and then I welded a nut on and just took my time and got it to come out. Reassembly went smoother then removal. FYI I removed both the heat shield and manifold down the back and muscles the cat over as I brought it through. Pics below so you can see the sanding process (I know you all want pictures lol)

Looks good, belt sander and new bolts is for sure the way to go for the stock manifolds.

 

[18CrewDually]

Nice finish! Good job.

 

[jr27236]

Looks good, belt sander and new bolts is for sure the way to go for the stock manifolds.

Yeah it works really well! The amount of metal dust that is generated is incredible. When I did the passenger side I was too lazy to get out the shop vac and then tasted metal and blew black boogers the rest of the night. This time I smartened up and attached to the shop vac and it sucked in a lot of that metal dust and was a lot better. Should have worn one of those k95 masks. But with the large flat steel deck under the belt you can't screw up.

 

[BenWade]

Yeah it works really well! The amount of metal dust that is generated is incredible. When I did the passenger side I was too lazy to get out the shop vac and then tasted metal and blew black boogers the rest of the night. This time I smartened up and attached to the shop vac and it sucked in a lot of that metal dust and was a lot better. Should have worn one of those k95 masks. But with the large flat steel deck under the belt you can't screw up.

Was the mating surface on the block clean or did it require any sanding/wheel??

Also, where did you get the belt sander? Thanks!

 

[jr27236]

Was the mating surface on the block clean or did it require any sanding/wheel??

Also, where did you get the belt sander? Thanks!

So the heads mating surface I used a razor scraper and cleaned off any residual typical aluminum oxidation and then a good wire brush to polish them as good as I could.
The belt sander is actually an older Craftsman 6x48 belt sander that I purchased used locally and bought new belts at Harbor freight. So the deck on the sander that size is 6" X 24" and being it has the steel plate the manifold sits true to the belt deck and basically all I did was continuously twists it up and down to not kill one area of the belt. harbor freight currently sells a 6x48 but look used before dropping that cash.

 

[kdoublep]

I'm next. Passenger side. Not sure if it's bolt or manifold.

Did you end up using the remflex gaskets or did you use something else?

Thanks!

 

[kdoublep]

Are these the correct Mopar bolts recommended?