Exhaust manifold bolts?

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jr27236

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jr27236

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They currently have a "used" aka returned, complete kit for $58!!! That bothe gaskets and ALL the hardware. Even the bolts for the exhaust flange is included.
Torque the manifolds to 18ft lbs. The flange bolts to 23 ft lbs and the heat shields to 72in. lbs.
 
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Are these the correct Mopar bolts recommended?
View attachment 533077
If your gonna use the remflex then you can get the Dorman 03309 bolt kit but they usually come in individual sets for each side NOT both sides so you need to buy two sets which makes it not worth the money. Then you just buy the complete set I mentioned earlier which has everything you need for both sides for far less money
 

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@jr27236, looks like you did a fantastic job!

Ditto on the drivers side being a PIA, no matter how I tried, I could not get mine out because of the dipstick. After screwing around with it for over an hour, I finally undid the bottom bolt on the dipstick tube, clamped a small visegrip to the tube, and popped the tube from the block. Then my manifold came out in 5 seconds.

Mine is 2WD, though. It is supposed to be a real b*tch to get at that lower clamp on the 4WD trucks.

Absolutely crazy how many of us have had this issue.
 
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@jr27236, looks like you did a fantastic job!

Ditto on the drivers side being a PIA, no matter how I tried, I could not get mine out because of the dipstick. After screwing around with it for over an hour, I finally undid the bottom bolt on the dipstick tube, clamped a small visegrip to the tube, and popped the tube from the block. Then my manifold came out in 5 seconds.

Mine is 2WD, though. It is supposed to be a real b*tch to get at that lower clamp on the 4WD trucks.

Absolutely crazy how many of us have had this issue.
Thanks!! I definitely don't want to do it twice.
I looked at that bolt on the bottom and contemplated removing it but when I saw it tucked behind the engine mount I said NO WAY. I was able to give it a little bend and work with that.
Isn't the tube pressed into the block? Or just in with an o-ring seal??
 

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Thanks!! I definitely don't want to do it twice.
I looked at that bolt on the bottom and contemplated removing it but when I saw it tucked behind the engine mount I said NO WAY. I was able to give it a little bend and work with that.
Isn't the tube pressed into the block? Or just in with an o-ring seal??
20210213_212839.jpg
Just an o-ring.

Mine's a 2wd, so the bolt for the bottom dipstick tube bracket was super-easy to get at.
 
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And it just pushed on sealing with an o-ring seal. That's great to know because a lot of people are under the impression that it is pressed in at the factory.
 

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And it just pushed on sealing with an o-ring seal. That's great to know because a lot of people are under the impression that it is pressed in at the factory.
It is tight. I couldn't just pull it out after unbolting the bottom bracket. I had to lightly clamp a small pair of vise-grips to the dipstick tube and tap it upwards to remove it.

I believe I had to tap it back in on the reinstall, too.
 

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It is tight. I couldn't just pull it out after unbolting the bottom bracket. I had to lightly clamp a small pair of vise-grips to the dipstick tube and tap it upwards to remove it.

I believe I had to tap it back in on the reinstall, too.
Good to know, I'll be tackling this soon. Probably only going to do the passenger side over the winter and do the driver side on the spring since broken bolts are on passenger side.
 
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Good to know, I'll be tackling this soon. Probably only going to do the passenger side over the winter and do the driver side on the spring since broken bolts are on passenger side.
I guarantee they are on both sides. I did my passenger side first and all was quiet and then I heard the Drivers side literally a week later!!! Same exact broken bolts. Just opposite how they broke. (Meaning flush and not flush in the block) Im really think that not only are these manifolds warping but wonder if the motor torqueing over on acceleration and shifting has something to do with it because those pipes didn't move when I wanted to try get the manifold past the drivers side.
 

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I guarantee they are on both sides. I did my passenger side first and all was quiet and then I heard the Drivers side literally a week later!!! Same exact broken bolts. Just opposite how they broke. (Meaning flush and not flush in the block) Im really think that not only are these manifolds warping but wonder if the motor torqueing over on acceleration and shifting has something to do with it because those pipes didn't move when I wanted to try get the manifold past the drivers side.
Maybe, but just had it inspected and had them check and they found a broken stud on passenger side.
 

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I guarantee they are on both sides. I did my passenger side first and all was quiet and then I heard the Drivers side literally a week later!!! Same exact broken bolts. Just opposite how they broke. (Meaning flush and not flush in the block) Im really think that not only are these manifolds warping but wonder if the motor torqueing over on acceleration and shifting has something to do with it because those pipes didn't move when I wanted to try get the manifold past the drivers side.
Interesting. I wonder if the MDS causes temperature changes that contribute to the warpage.

However, it does seem that once they're sanded or milled flat after they warp, they don't warp again. That fact makes me think that they werent normalized during manufacture.

I have no knowledge of the casting process on stuff like this, so I am just guessing based on my limited knowledge of how metals behave when machined.

I broke the rearmost bolt on both sides in my Ram. Luckily both broke just under the head of the bolt, so they were a breeze to remove.

My manifolds were warped and slightly twisted as well. I didn't get them perfectly flat, but good enough to not be noisy.
 

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I guarantee they are on both sides. I did my passenger side first and all was quiet and then I heard the Drivers side literally a week later!!! Same exact broken bolts. Just opposite how they broke. (Meaning flush and not flush in the block) Im really think that not only are these manifolds warping but wonder if the motor torqueing over on acceleration and shifting has something to do with it because those pipes didn't move when I wanted to try get the manifold past the drivers side.
I am going to replace the driver side too, just not at the same time. I'm going with BD power exhaust manifolds. They are similar in appearance to stock manifolds, but are not subject to warping and bolt breakage. Their design is what Ram should have used when they started having these issues.
 

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Passenger side definately easier to work on.
Yeah, I did headers on my old 2005 with 5.7 hemi for same reason, broken bolts. Had to unbolt steering to get header in on driver side.
 
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I am going to replace the driver side too, just not at the same time. I'm going with BD power exhaust manifolds. They are similar in appearance to stock manifolds, but are not subject to warping and bolt breakage. Their design is what Ram should have used when they started having these issues.
What makes you think the BD manifolds aren't subject to warping,they're still a cast iron manifold that is prone to needing a pile of heat cycles before it's tempered and won't warp .I don't think anybody has ran them long to claim that fact yet
 

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What makes you think the BD manifolds aren't subject to warping,they're still a cast iron manifold that is prone to needing a pile of heat cycles before it's tempered and won't warp .I don't think anybody has ran them long to claim that fact yet
Anything's possible
 

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What makes you think the BD manifolds aren't subject to warping,they're still a cast iron manifold that is prone to needing a pile of heat cycles before it's tempered and won't warp .I don't think anybody has ran them long to claim that fact yet
Been going back and forth between these or headers. I used headers in my old truck to fix leak issues.
 

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Anyone put shorty headers on their 4th Gen know if it is necessary to lift engine to get headers in? I know I nmy 2005 it wasn't necessary,but have seen some headers say it may be necessary. I'm sure it helps, but is it necessary?
 

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