Factory intake vs. Aftermarket...by the numbers

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RamWagon

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Yeah, that was my initial idea, too much transferable heat. Plus decided I could get a better fit with fiberglass not to mention it looking a whole lot better. It also takes a lot of on and off fine tuning it until you get the right fit, I just don't think that's going to work with the metal. You wouldn't believe the difference the aluminum tape on the back makes! before the snorkel still got hot, now it's cool to barely warm after running the engine for a while, major difference.

The heat transfer was another thing i thought of. But i figured the air would keep it cool while driving. I think with the 4th gens your method would be alot easier. A lot less stuff in the way.
 

Tray Burge

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The heat transfer was another thing i thought of. But i figured the air would keep it cool while driving. I think with the 4th gens your method would be alot easier. A lot less stuff in the way.

Think about it? Not only is it a conductive heat sink out of metal, but it's sitting right in front of the radiator too. I had to add the foil tape to eliminate the heat.
 

VB712

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AFE dry panel. 99.2% efficiency with a very good synthetic media. Probably one of the best choices when it comes to filtration

I had the same filter in my factory air box. I put an S&B intake on my truck for two reasons. Looks way better than factory and the quality is awesome.

Any gains? Probably not but sure did clean up the engine bay.
 

Casper

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The OP's original list needs one more division.
Vararam is in a class by itself.
Then S&B, Volant and the new Mopar are all enclosed units (really do provide cooler air).
Then you have the open units that are hot air intakes--they are also universally louder than snot with intake noise. It's poser noise IMHO because the sound needs to be coming from your exhaust. These things produce tooth cracking, filling loosening throttle noise under heavy acceleration: conversation and music drowning--and some of these open units also wheeze and gasp at idle.

I ignore the naysayers who denigrate oiled filters--those folks are horribly out of date on the science, and clearly don't know a thing about the ISO standard particulate tests--its like redneck wisdom, the mullet wearing dude who told them was ignert, and the only wisdom conveyed came from the bottom of a beer can. Just say'n.
 
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Andrew09HEMI

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Take a breath Casper! hahaha Getting all worked up over intakes :favorites13:
 

Casper

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Take a breath Casper! hahaha Getting all worked up over intakes :favorites13:
Not me, I got my :popcorn: and I'm enjoying the back and forth.

Of course once in awhile the "ignert" gets deep and I break out the ole verbal shovel :eek: !
 

powderbrad

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So the cam can lift only so much, and the heads only flow so much. The engine only produces so much vacuum/ suction through the TB.

Has anyone tested the stock intake to see if it can't keep up? If it can them there's really no point I guess.

I also have a vararam haha

I can see maybe a good filter jamming/letting more air into the TB creating a slight pressure build before being drawn into the engine requiring more fuel then creating a touch more power.

Maybe the benefit is air replenishment on on/off throttle application with wide variation in throttle blade position?
 

ocwill1

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This is what I did to my 2016 6.4.. Had a shop make an intake pipe that fit in place of OEM.... And yes, inside OEM looks just like outside. This is nice and smooth inside...

 

craigsez

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ram air..

This really is more of a 'has anyone done it' or a 'does anyone have the ability to do it' post regarding intakes.

As I see it, the top 5 intakes for our trucks in no particular order are:

1.) K&N
2.) Vararam
3.) S&B
4.) AFE
5.) LMI

Now, aside from the vararam, the others all follow the same basic form...same basic tube design, open element filter in some type of enclosure sealed against the under hood heat in one way or another. As a matter of fact, the AFE intake actually attaches it's heat shield to the lower half of the factory airbox.

Building on that, from conventional knowledge we know that plastic parts tend to be much more resistant to heat soak than metal parts.

I'm curious to see if anyone either has already flow tested the factory intake and an aftermarket one, or if anyone has the capability to do so, to see whether or not there's a dramatic difference in airflow capability. We're not talking dyno numbers or butt dyno impressions, we're talking actual CFM.

The more I look at these aftermarket setups and compare them to the factory intake, the more it seems to me that you'd end up with the same result by going with a good panel filter in the factory intake vs replacing the whole thing.

About the only exception I can forsee is the S&B with the scoop helping to bring the IAT down a bit. However, for the same $400 that intake costs, a tuner is a much better investment.

What might be really interesting would be to buy just the S&B Scoop, and find a way to integrate it into the factory airbox.

So, does anyone have the ability to test these things or maybe know someone who does?





Forgot this one....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH0km9Mdh2A&t=2s
 

smiley

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AFE dry panel. 99.2% efficiency with a very good synthetic media. Probably one of the best choices when it comes to filtration



That is what I have too. I love it.
 

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