Fluid Time

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Magnum5.9

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Didn't know where else to put this, apologize if its in the wrong category..

Just got my truck back after new re-maned tranny and the shop said that my anti-freeze is about toast and I should looked into changing the transfer case and rear differential fluid.. ( previous owner said he did them all 10,000 miles ago :flipthebird:)

So I looked in my manual and am in the process of getting a build sheet but I believe i need..

20qts of green anti-freeze
ATF for transfer case
GL-5 75-90w for rear diff
Friction modifier for rear diff??
No info for front diff??? Internet said synthetic 75w-140?

Anyone confirm or ad any missing info?
 
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DodgeTx

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are you going to flush cooling system with a hose as well?
im not certain on the exact amount but make sure you mix antifreeze with water or get 50/50 pre diluted.

I would think front diff would use same gear lube as rear? maybe im wrong?

best of luck, and remember to "burb " the cooling system or you may experience overheating.
 
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Magnum5.9

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are you going to flush cooling system with a hose as well?
im not certain on the exact amount but make sure you mix antifreeze with water or get 50/50 pre diluted.

I would think front diff would use same gear lube as rear? maybe im wrong?

best of luck, and remember to "burb " the cooling system or you may experience overheating.

My plan was to get one of those cheapo flush kits that you hook a hose up to to flush the cooling system.. is regular hose water ok to flush with?

When you say burp, are you talking about turning the truck on after I fill the radiator up and let the engine get to normal temp and push the air bubbles out the top of the radiator with the cap off?
 
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Magnum5.9

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I got the build sheet and it said:
Corporate 9.25 LD rear axle
195mm front axle

Does the LD stand for limited differential as in limited slip so I need to add the friction modifier?

Thanks for the help guys! :)
 

dodge dude94

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If you're going to use a flush kit, remember to keep the heater hoses in one piece. They are known to blow up the little plastic pieces and kill your engine.

Use 75W140 Full synthetic with friction modifier for the rear diff even if you don't have a limited slip. ATF4 for transfer case. Front diff wants 75W140...go full syn on that too.

You don't change diffs very often, so don't cheap out on it, get the good stuff.


*ninja'd*
LD stands for Light Duty.
 
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Magnum5.9

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If you're going to use a flush kit, remember to keep the heater hoses in one piece. They are known to blow up the little plastic pieces and kill your engine.

Use 75W140 Full synthetic with friction modifier for the rear diff even if you don't have a limited slip. ATF4 for transfer case. Front diff wants 75W140...go full syn on that too.

You don't change diffs very often, so don't cheap out on it, get the good stuff.


*ninja'd*
LD stands for Light Duty.

How else would you recommend flushing the cooling system? What do you mean by they are known to blow upm


So my build sheet is telling me no LSD but I tested it in the mud I thought I had LSD or posi? :crazy:
 
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ADudeOnSkis

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Could be previous owner added one? Best way to tell is to jack the rear up so the tires are off the ground and spin one of the wheels. If the opposing wheel rotates the same way, lsd. If it rotates opposite, open diff. Or lsd going bad...
 

dodge dude94

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How else would you recommend flushing the cooling system? What do you mean by they are known to blow upm


So my build sheet is telling me no LSD but I tested it in the mud I thought I had LSD or posi? :crazy:

Use a heatcore flush kit that takes both hoses off the cooling system, then from there just use lots and lots of water to flush the system. Hell, take the t-stat out so it'll flow faster.
 
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Magnum5.9

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Use a heatcore flush kit that takes both hoses off the cooling system, then from there just use lots and lots of water to flush the system. Hell, take the t-stat out so it'll flow faster.

So not just the simple: just keep pouring water through my radiator for a flush?

Isn't the t stat a b**** to get out? Remove the alternator?
 
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Magnum5.9

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Could be previous owner added one? Best way to tell is to jack the rear up so the tires are off the ground and spin one of the wheels. If the opposing wheel rotates the same way, lsd. If it rotates opposite, open diff. Or lsd going bad...

The previous owner did next to nothing to the truck( other than normal servicing) because he rarely drove it... so I highly doubt he put in posi but I'll jack the rear up and we'll see if 2 tires spin
 
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dodge dude94

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So not just the simple: just keep pouring water through my radiator for a flush?

Isn't the t stat a b**** to get out? Remove the alternator?

You can do that too. Just don't put in a flush kit...anything but a flush kit.

And it can be, still easier to do that most engines. :roflsquared:
 

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by burp, i mean after you have drained and refilled with antifreeze 50/50 mix, get it to running temp 190 degrees i believe to open t-stat. turn on heater full blast. let run for about 5-10mins, turn off. let cool. try to park with radiator at slight elevation if possible. remove radiator cap, start. let it get to running temps, heater on full. keep your overflow tank in middle of add/fill, watch it. dont let it bubble over too much add more coolant as necessary.

may have described this wrong. anyone clear up what i said?
 
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Magnum5.9

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You can do that too. Just don't put in a flush kit...anything but a flush kit.

And it can be, still easier to do that most engines. :roflsquared:

Can someone please give me a brief step by step on flushing the cooing system??

I've herd so far:
1. just keep filling the radiator and draining.
2. Remove t stat and hoses and flush water into the t stat housing/block?
 
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Magnum5.9

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And does anyone have the fluid capacities for the transfer case, rear diff and front diff?
 

dodge dude94

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There are many ways to do it. lol Ultimately what you'll need to do is get the most old coolant out.
 

dodge dude94

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T-case: 2.5 pts
Front Diff: 4.8 pts
Rear Diff: 4.5 pts
Rear Diff with LSD: 4.7 pts
 

DodgeTx

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the "burping" gets any trapped air out of the cooling system.

if its worth doing its worth doing right.
you can go the easy route and just drain the radiator and refill, if you don't want to go through the hassle. I wouldn't do it that way though.
 

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