Front Brakes "Not making full contact"

[cvillechopper]

So, I am at the dealer getting an inspection and the transmission flush (cause I'm lazy this week) and they come out to tell me that my 2015 1500 failed due to "front brake pads not making full contact with the rotor". I said that I was surprised that they would be even close to worn since they only have about 25K on some Power Stop rotors and pads (truck is around 67K). They said that there is plenty of life in the pads, they just aren't making full contact. Said it's about $600 to replace the rotors and pads.
Of course I told them to put the rejection sticker on. That is insane. First, replacing the rotors and pads, if they aren't worn, doesn't seem like it would fix anything. I'm guessing I've got some dirty sliders or something. Have to take a look when I get home but figured I'd see if anyone has had anything like this so I know what to look at first. Thoughts?

I should add that the truck stops on a dime (for a full size truck). 100% convinced that the dealer is full of ****.

 

[caulk04]

Well, have a look at them and share a pic with us. If there is an issue, I wonder if one of the pads is tight in the bracket and not working correctly. Brake issues often arise slowly so you don't notice degrading performance until you correct them.

Otherwise, try to find a decent small shop and start a relationship there. The guy who does my annual inspections knows me well enough that IF something is found to be deficient he can sticker it knowing that I'll fix it, pronto.

 

[cvillechopper]

Well, I questioned the service manager since I could see from the outside that the rotors look great. He talked with the tech and said that it's the inside of the rotors. Can't really see them without pulling the wheels when I get home but I did notice what may be a slight ridge at the edge (small part that isn't covered by the backing plate). The more I think about it, these pads and rotors actually have about 42K on them. I had to replace the stock rotors around 25K because they had already warped.
On the drive from the dealer to work I paid attention to the brake feel because (like you mentioned) you don't always notice small changes as they occur. Feels like there MIGHT be a small amount of brake grind when applying light pressure which would align with a groove/rust issue. Likely I'm going to be replacing everything this weekend...

 

[Black1500Ram]

you could have someone press the brakes when you have the wheel off so you can verify you dont have a frozen piston (or partially frozen) but sounds like you've got it!

 

[Socalramfan]

That’s what I was wondering if perhaps the piston may be an issue.

 

[indept]

What was the issue that brought this to their attention? Was there partial wear on the rotor or do they have a machine that measures each wheels stopping effort?

 

[Jeepwalker]

...I wonder if one of the pads is tight in the bracket and not working correctly. Brake issues often arise slowly so you don't notice degrading performance until you correct them.

That could be (above quote). It's worth a look. I've had that on a few vehicles. If there are stainless steel slider sleeves, they frequently get rust below them which squeezes the sliders against the pad. It can literally lock the pad in place ...and if they don't back out after breaking, that can cause wear, and rotor warpage. Maybe that's what caused your last rotors to warp? And of course rust can develop on the backside of rotors too.

Yeah, check them out. Good luck

 

[cvillechopper]

These little strips of very light rust are on each rotor. Very strange that it's consistent on both sides. Won't get to pull them until this weekend but it really look superficial. Could buff them out but will likely need new pads. And need to figure out what caused it. Good times.

 

[turkeybird56]

I can tell you if my truck sits long, and it is a driveway princess, my rotors always look rusted. Takes a few braking and revolutions to free up the surface rust. OP, does sound like U have an idea where to go. U can also pull apart, change parts as needed and "lightly" grease those pins.

When I do brakes, NOT have touched my RAM yet, but only 20K on Odometer, I always clean the pins real "good" and put on a light coat of silicone lubricant when putting back together, of course being careful to not "lube" up the rotors, LOL.

 

[Wild one]

These little strips of very light rust are on each rotor. Very strange that it's consistent on both sides. Won't get to pull them until this weekend but it really look superficial. Could buff them out but will likely need new pads. And need to figure out what caused it. Good times.
View attachment 500355

That's normal,the pads don't usually cover the very outside edge of the rotor,so rust will build up on the outer edges.That's not your issue.

 

[turkeybird56]

That could be (above quote). It's worth a look. I've had that on a few vehicles. If there are stainless steel slider sleeves, they frequently get rust below them which squeezes the sliders against the pad. It can literally lock the pad in place ...and if they don't back out after breaking, that can cause wear, and rotor warpage. Maybe that's what caused your last rotors to warp? And of course rust can develop on the backside of rotors too.

Yeah, check them out. Good luck

Sounds like another area for OP to look at or have done.

 

[cvillechopper]

The outside edges are normal. The band about 1/8" in from the outer edge is what they are claiming is corrosion and failed me for.

 

[indept]

The outside edges are normal. The band about 1/8" in from the outer edge is what they are claiming is corrosion and failed me for.

Yes, that's what caught my attention. Post some pictures of the pads and rotor when you tear it apart. It looks like something is smeared in that band not corrosion. Maybe it's a improperly seated pad rivet that is just starting to score the rotor.

 

[Mister Luck]

Red Flags
Transmission Flush
$600.00 brake job
(I’d get a second opinion)

Looking at the pictures seems you have a hole in a non- drilled rotor what is that about?
And yes the outer ridge of the rotor looks like that but the inch and a quarter gap on the surface of your rotor, does look like its not making contact,

42K is time for inspection don’t you think ?

 

[indept]

(I’d get a second opinion)

Just don't get it from this guys doctor

 

[Mister Luck]

Yes, that's what caught my attention. Post some pictures of the pads and rotor when you tear it apart. It looks like something is smeared in that band not corrosion. Maybe it's a improperly seated pad rivet that is just starting to score the rotor.

@cvillechopper Don’t forget to post those pictures of the pads and rotors…

…this guy is hot for smeared stuff !

 

[RickH]

I think that most of the standard checkpoints have been named and should be checked to make sure everything is OK. i had a brake squeal that I couldn't isolate by myself and got the impression that something was dragging, so got the digital meat thermometer from the kitchen and checked all the rotors after a short trip. Found that 3 out of 4 rotors were all about 125*C, but the 4th was 225*C. Guess which corner I checked first? Yup, hung guide pin and clip causing the pad to not withdraw properly. Checked the others just to be sure, and found them to need a little attention but nothing serious. Wiped off the thermometer afterwards and returned it to he kitchen.

 

[Hydrasport23]

That does not look normal. It appears the pad is making contact with the inside 3/4 of the rotor and then it misses about 1/4" and then makes contact on the outside edge with the small normal ridge on the very outside edge. Perhaps where a rivet may be if the pad was worn down enough? Good catch on the part of the tech.

 

[Marshall]

I am with H , that is not right, but blame the service guys ,really?

 

[cvillechopper]

So, got it pulled apart today. These were drilled and slotted rotors. I knew I needed to replace them anyway and ordered the new parts this week. Turns out it was a build up of brake dust in one of the slots that then glazed over and created a very slight issue on the pad. I still contend it should not be enough to fail inspection.
Looks like I'll need to periodically clean out the "slots". Hadn't remembered that they are not real slots through the rotor but just long dimples. Going to clean out the reara tomorrow just to avoid fail later.