Front Brakes "Not making full contact"

[Jeepwalker]

Interesting unintended consequence of d/s rotors.

Does your truck sit unused for extended periods? Are the pads moving freely in their sliding bosses? B/C the rest of the pad contact area (the inner area) looks pretty rusty too. What does the other brake rotor look like?

Are you going to have the rotor machined? If you replace them, I'd be tempted to go back to regular rotors. Although it's a nice-to-have ....a guy doesn't really need drilled or slotted rotors for DD or periodic trailer towing use. More for severe-duty service ....where excessive pad off-gassing is an issue (like racing).

I think the tech did the right thing bringing it to your attention.

 

[1 MEAN66]

I would call your State's Inspection people, verify that it is a rule first off, and what it takes to fail. Is the shop reading the rule to benefit them and sales OR?? If they are not inspecting properly others may just shell out the money for a useless and not needed "repair". Even if you had grooves in the rotors the pads would wear into the grooves and provide FULL CONTACT. My guess is the rule is there to make sure both pads - inside/outside are moving and contacting the rotor to generate stopping power. That pad is "contacting" that rotor where that mark is or that part would show rust. If you looked at the pad you would again probably see a groove in it where that pitting surface of the rotor is. FULL CONTACT more than likely DOES NOT STAND FOR SMOOTH surface. there should be a phone contact to whom ever regulates inspection stations and sets the inspection rules. Maybe the shop does not even know that they are doing it wrong? Those slots in the pads are wear indicators, the slots in the rotors help to clear debris and gases that pads and rotors generate, by keeping them cooler during heavy /sustained braking.

 

[TomB 1269]

1st I call BULLsh!+ on the dealer. Piston has to push out to pull outer pad against rotor face. So if the outer is making contact so is the inner. Now the "rust ring", if the dealer stated the pad not making contact then how is the face of the rotor show wear? How is the outer pad being drawn in to the outer rotor face?

I would absolutely report them to state inspection for that bullsh!+. I ran in to a place that would pass NOT my sons truck because of "non-factory" rims. I ended up with the regional manager and he was appreciative of my insistence because his inspector was actual putting his shop at risk of loosing its certification for that crap.

Now with the picture you provided, looks to me that you are either dragging the inboard pad to much, or that the pad material has been contaminated and is breaking down way to fast.

I have been a big proponent of custom fitting pads for years. I will file/grind the contact points on the pad to match the needs of the carrier and provide a very small amount of lateral movement in the carrier before applying any brake grease to the pad guides or pad "ears". I have found this to elevate the tendency for pads to "hang-up" in the carrier due to dust, crud, etc., and allow for them to "back-out" easier and quicker.

Also I have switched to using anti seize in the guide pin boot/sleeve. Just be sure to keep it clear of any threads / bolt surfaces so as not to decrease the "holding" capacity of the caliper bolts.

If you know how badly the 04-08 Ford F150s tend to hang pads and require replacement, etc. on the front brakes, then you will understand how well this work when I say I elevated the problem on my old 05 F150 by utilizing this process and spending the time to assure they moved in the carrier like a hot knife in butter before brake grease was applied.

Oh ya, also use brake grease sparingly as to much only helps collect more grit to diminish easy of movement.