Front Wheel Hub Bearing replacement in the Rust Belt

[SeppW]

I've never used a SKF part before, they're good quality?

I looked at some of those type of tools that attach to the wheel flange. Some are like a harmonic balancer puller and some are like that. The only issue I've seen with those type is you can separate the bearing/wheel flange from the race part of the hub which is the part thats seized. Probably won't happen unless the bearing is really bad tho....

SKF is allegedly OEM. I keep most components as close to OE as possible, and believe it not, the steering components on the 4th GENs and later are pretty good for OE. Crap shoot on where made as all pretty much outsources. The key though is the QA/QC, even if made in the PRC. I would also squirt as much high quality wheel bearing grease (Redline) into the ABS sensor hole as possible before buttoning it up, and while I can't defend doing it, anecdotally others swear by it and and report extended service life of bearing unit.

 

[4xdad]

I live in Alberta so salt and rust are a common thing. I recently had to replace my front wheel bearing i used the skf from Amazon they were half the price of Napa for the same part. The job was easy with no problems. Did the front brakes on the kids truck and had to use the winch and trees with a snatch block to get the wheels off. Aluminum on steel hubs. Should have seen him jump when it let go

 

[4xdad]

Rear shocks are fun the bottom bolts aren’t a big deal but getting the nut off of the shaft is not going to happen. There’s a spot on top of the shaft to put a small Allen key in but it will just strip out. So sawzall to the rescue

 

[Wild one]

I live in Alberta so salt and rust are a common thing. I recently had to replace my front wheel bearing i used the skf from Amazon they were half the price of Napa for the same part. The job was easy with no problems. Did the front brakes on the kids truck and had to use the winch and trees with a snatch block to get the wheels off. Aluminum on steel hubs. Should have seen him jump when it let go

Anything cheap off Amazon scares me.Alot of stuff on Amazon is a cheap knock-off,and isn't actually what you think it is.

 

[4xdad]

The thing I don’t like about Amazon is when you order your parts it’s kinda like hit or miss. I ordered some head lights from a company called vland that was on Amazon one of them was defective and they gave a little static when I asked for a replacement but when I showed them a video of me pouring water out of it they sent a replacement right away. It was a small spot where the silicone missed the mark. I like the light and the issue with the silicone is just one of those things that happens in mass manufacturing.

 

[4xdad]

I was somewhat dubious about buying the wheel bearings off Amazon but I compared the part number and they were the same so I bought them and they were all good

 

[4xdad]

To me the biggest drawback of ordering from Amazon is that you have to wait for the order. Then if it’s not right you’re boogered. Or if you need the part right now. It’s good for ordering stuff that you need that you can buy ahead of time. I get my motor oil from them because you can’t find it anywhere else. Pennzoil 0-40 for a pw. Then when it’s time for a oil change I have the oil handy

 

[U&A]

Thanks Brodozer!!!

Part ordered! I like your anti-seize….somehow we got the same stuff LOL

 

[Hagar1]

I went with Timkens, always had good luck with those in the past. Plus I believe they are the supplier for the Mopar ones....

Timken, SKF or Bower are generally all good. I put a SKF on the right side of my truck and I'd need to go back and find the name of the other bearing but it wasn't one of the big 3 so I'm curious as to how long it will last.
I should keep a spare on hand and then I'd never need it.

 

[Pushrod8Speed]

If it's any consolation, my 2017 Texas truck experienced the same issue. Lot's of brake dust and some rust trapped the bearing into the knuckle. Luckily, I was replacing upper & lower control arms. I reused the the knuckle so, I needed to get it off with the dust cover (which had 0 rust). I tried PB Blaster, compressed air, scraping with a pick, took a small sledge to release it. Oh my brake rotors were stuck also and I needed to reuse those. I used a hammer on the inside when on truck with no luck (didn't want to crack them). Ended up placing rotor on a 4x4 and hitting the old studs/lug nuts from above. Other than that, the truck relatively rust free.

 

[rick_ca]

Just did my front left hub I'm in Ontario Canada so expected some resistance, but b4 I started i ordered via Amazon the hub and 36mm socket. All nuts broke free with help of extension bar on ratchet then onto the hub lol, tried being gentle at 1st but then the big hammer and pry bar came out. After over an hour of luv tap and a can of PB blaster it moved then a few more luv taps it was out, cleaned all surfaces and applied liberal amount of antisiez and put back together. Then it was beer time lol

 

[NETim]

SKF hub unit is a better choice IMO, but people have their brand loyalty or get whatever works. I saw a wheel hub removal tool that is supposed to break any hub loose, no matter how badly seized. https://atdtools.com/8629 Haven't used this, but reviews appear positive, but then again everything nowadays is staged.

I went with a tool similar to that. No luck. I beat the thing silly. I finally broke down and bought a Lisle tool. It worked just fine.


https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/40100-hub-remover

 

[rick_ca]

I went with a tool similar to that. No luck. I beat the thing silly. I finally broke down and bought a Lisle tool. It worked just fine.


https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/40100-hub-remover

I didn't buy a either tool but did use large pipe wrench on hub a hit end of wrench downwards

 

[Lee Peterson]

I've had SKS on my ram for 1 year now they say made in Mexico still tight no noises.