Fuel system upgrade

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torinreality

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2016 Ram Rebel
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Supercharged 6.4
I'm building a new motor for my 2016 Rebel, a 392 stroker with a ProCharger that I'm intending on running at about 12 pounds. So I need to upgrade my fuel system, and I'm hoping for some advice from folks who have done this before.

Right now I'm leaning towards an Aeromotive A1000 system, because I like the idea of an external pump (in case I have to change/repair hardware), and the A1000 should be big enough for my needs (and I don't mind the noise). My intention is to install bulkhead lines for the supply and return lines (AN10 and AN6 or 8), and use the Aeromotive pickup filter (part #18002) inside the tank for the supply line.

My questions for the gurus out there:

1) I'd rather run the 100 micron filter external to the tank, but I'm thinking I need some kind of diffuser in the tank to prevent suction vortexes. Are there better options for the in-take supply line?

2) Should the inlet port pull from inside the basket or outside? Do I have to worry about eductor/replenishing jet-pump issues? Am I forced to keep 1/4 tank of gas or so to prevent sucking air?

3) Are there any complications with abandoning the stock pump but keeping the fuel gauge working?

4) Am I over-thinking this, because there's a simple solution while using the stock basket and hat?

Any information or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. I couldn't find the information I'm looking for with the on-site search or Google.

Thanks!
 

nickpohlaandp

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My questions for the gurus out there:

1) I'd rather run the 100 micron filter external to the tank, but I'm thinking I need some kind of diffuser in the tank to prevent suction vortexes. Are there better options for the in-take supply line?

The stock basket picks up fuel and keeps it into the basket. I wouldn't worry about running out of fuel.

2) Should the inlet port pull from inside the basket or outside? Do I have to worry about eductor/replenishing jet-pump issues? Am I forced to keep 1/4 tank of gas or so to prevent sucking air?

This depends upon if you decide to go with the external pump or not. If you do, you are going to have to rethink your approach altogether. With an external pump you will have to control fuel slosh, and to do it right, pick up from the bottom of the tank at a lowered point (enter fuel tank modifications).

3) Are there any complications with abandoning the stock pump but keeping the fuel gauge working?

No. The fuel gauge simply runs off a rheostat that is connected to the float on an arm. The gauge will work as long as you leave that part of the system alone.

4) Am I over-thinking this, because there's a simple solution while using the stock basket and hat?

Yes, you are overthinking this. There are much easier, cheaper ways to pump up your fuel system.

Any information or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. I couldn't find the information I'm looking for with the on-site search or Google.

Thanks!

My experience with beefing up a return less fuel system goes back to a mustang that I built. Overall, we're talking about he same type of system, so it will work on your truck too. The best thing to do is get a higher capacity pump and mount it inside your fuel basket in the place of the stock pump. Your computer will run it as if it were the stock pump, you will have no hassles, extra noise, and not have to worry about having to keep 1/4 tank minimum in you tank. The most you'll have to do is modify your fuel basket a bit because the pump I'm recommending below will be a little taller than your stock one.

This is the pump I used:

DivisionX Stryker 340lph Fuel Pump

That pump will more than support your goals. If you ever feel like you need more, put a boost-a-pump on it. I doubt you'll need more for your purposes though.
 

nickpohlaandp

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You wouldn't happen to be close to Lake Charles, LA, would you? I'd be happy to hook you up, no charge. I love this kind of stuff.
 

Wild one

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You wouldn't happen to be close to Lake Charles, LA, would you? I'd be happy to hook you up, no charge. I love this kind of stuff.

He's on the west coast of Canada,so you got a wee bit of a drive to look him up,lol.

Holy crap Torinreality,when you get that monster built,i want a ride in it,lol.
 

nickpohlaandp

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He's on the west coast of Canada,so you got a wee bit of a drive to look him up,lol.

Holy crap Torinreality,when you get that monster built,i want a ride in it,lol.

He could send me a stock setup and the Division X and I could hook it up.
 

big13

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I am on the West coast of Canada... I would like to see this 392 build !!!
 

Wild one

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Charonblk has some experience with fuel systems,lol. Kurtis has built himself one hell'va fuel system ,I've seen it personally,i helped him pull and re-install his tank when he did it,full of fuel no less,lol.
 

charonblk07

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I'm building a new motor for my 2016 Rebel, a 392 stroker with a ProCharger that I'm intending on running at about 12 pounds. So I need to upgrade my fuel system, and I'm hoping for some advice from folks who have done this before.

Right now I'm leaning towards an Aeromotive A1000 system, because I like the idea of an external pump (in case I have to change/repair hardware), and the A1000 should be big enough for my needs (and I don't mind the noise). My intention is to install bulkhead lines for the supply and return lines (AN10 and AN6 or 8), and use the Aeromotive pickup filter (part #18002) inside the tank for the supply line.

My questions for the gurus out there:

1) I'd rather run the 100 micron filter external to the tank, but I'm thinking I need some kind of diffuser in the tank to prevent suction vortexes. Are there better options for the in-take supply line?

2) Should the inlet port pull from inside the basket or outside? Do I have to worry about eductor/replenishing jet-pump issues? Am I forced to keep 1/4 tank of gas or so to prevent sucking air?

3) Are there any complications with abandoning the stock pump but keeping the fuel gauge working?

4) Am I over-thinking this, because there's a simple solution while using the stock basket and hat?

Any information or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. I couldn't find the information I'm looking for with the on-site search or Google.

Thanks!

As Rick pointed out, I've done a complete fuel return system on mine with an A1000 regulator but I'm using the Walbro 400 in-tank pumps for simplicity's sake. If you are set on the A1000 pump then you can make it work just fine, I preferred the in-tank pumps and went with a very good brand and I've had zero maintenance issues with them to date. To answer your questions with a few additions to what nick already put out:

1 and 2. The stock fuel basket does pick up and hold fuel in it but it will not keep up to the demand of a 300+lph fuel pump since it is designed to actually pull fuel to the pump using a small 1/4" hose with 2x 1" diaphragms. This is easily handled by drilling a few holes in the bottom of the fuel basket. If you pull vertically and use a flare on the end of your pick up you won't have any vortex issues but that's a lot less of an issue with small pumps like these in the large fuel tanks.

3. As long as the 2 wires for the oem level and float stay intact the fuel gauge works just fine. I've got both Walbro 400s in the fuel basket on their own wiring with the factory connector still in place just to run the fuel gauge.

4. Simple solution:

Dual 400 pump setup:

IMG_0928_zpspy8cc3rg.jpg

IMG_0927_zpszmi8mofu.jpg

I just had to upgrade the return line to -10AN because I was spiking the fuel pressure with the 1:1 boost reference and the -6AN return couldn't keep up. I've always fed with a single -8AN feed and it's been more than capable of keeping up to the fuel demand of the ID1000s I'm using now and the Stage 2 SRT4s I had before.

Single pump setup:
Apparently I don't have pics of it, but it is the same as above, just with one pump hanging into the basket. I found with the D1SC pushing 12psi the walbro 400 kept up perfectly with a -8AN feed and -6an return

I run the filter socks that come with the Walbro 400s with an in-line 10 micron filter between the pumps and fuel rails mounted forward of the fuel tank on the frame rail which has made it very easy to change the filter and drain the fuel system at a low point before I have to crack anything on the engine side for service.

One thing I found very early, the PCM will not run any aftermarket fuel pumps because the CanBus is so sensitive to overdraw. You will need to run the pump on a relay, I just took the trigger right off of the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box for the single pump setup and the dual pump setup runs independent relays with my relocated batteries in the box of the truck.
 

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charonblk07

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What Procharger are you planning on running and have you picked up your blower yet? I only ask because I have my D1SC kit sitting in my garage looking for a new home
 
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torinreality

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This forum really is fantastic. Thanks, everybody, for taking the time to share your knowledge. This is very useful for me. I'm going to do a bit more research, and maybe post a few more questions, and then I'll take lots of pictures and post a thread on what I end up doing with a fuel system in the end.

nickpohlaandp: thanks for your thoughts on tank mods, and external pumps. I'm pretty much convinced that I'll go with an internal pump, now. Thanks for the offer to help! I live in Vancouver, Canada, so geography is a bit of a hurdle, but I'll let you know how the project goes.

charonblk07: your build thread is one of the best I've seen, and your truck is incredible. My ambitions are more modest (I'm not doing any audio or lighting work, really), but I'm hoping to emulate a lot of what you've done engine-wise. I'm using a D1SC to start, but I've already bought it; otherwise I'd be all over your unit.

big13: I'll take lots of pics of the 392 build and post those, too. And perhaps we can connect at an event out west sometime.

wild one: Maybe I'll have the supercharger installed in time for the Castrol event. That's my goal.

Cheers!
 

WilliamS

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My experience with beefing up a return less fuel system goes back to a mustang that I built. Overall, we're talking about he same type of system, so it will work on your truck too. The best thing to do is get a higher capacity pump and mount it inside your fuel basket in the place of the stock pump. Your computer will run it as if it were the stock pump, you will have no hassles, extra noise, and not have to worry about having to keep 1/4 tank minimum in you tank. The most you'll have to do is modify your fuel basket a bit because the pump I'm recommending below will be a little taller than your stock one.

This is the pump I used:

DivisionX Stryker 340lph Fuel Pump

That pump will more than support your goals. If you ever feel like you need more, put a boost-a-pump on it. I doubt you'll need more for your purposes though.


im not familiar with the pump mentioned but this is the same for the BMW turbo cars. Large fuel pump, or pumps in the tank. No external, nothing needed to do to the truck it runs like its stock, and the bigger pump can be throttled to keep fuel pressure the same. Only difference is you may run over in terms of amperage. There are kits to add power wire, or relay to the extra pump.

I would steer away from an external pump, and just double up or 1 much larger pump in the tank. Might want to get something E85 ready, you might not want it now, but if you do in the future its good to already have the pump in place.
 

shane1981

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I try to be a hermit but my son and my social life prevent that and both seem to hit my pocket very hard for some reason.

tuned by Jay Greene
 

charonblk07

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I try to be a hermit but my son and my social life prevent that and both seem to hit my pocket very hard for some reason.

tuned by Jay Greene



See, there's your first problem, you just have to sell the kid off to a 3rd world country for medical experimentation and tell your friends to shove it (except for the truck friends who will willing help you go broke by selling you parts).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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