Getting a plan together for the stereo

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Alex

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So seeing as work is starting to pick up again, and I'm getting fed up with the poor quality of the Alpine system, soon I will be starting to gather parts to overhaul the stereo in the truck. I've been doing some surfing in this part of the forum, but I figured I'd throw out some ideas. Also, I'm not going for insane audiophile quality, but I want decent clarity and a lot more volume than the factory setup. I'm kind of hoping to get away with adding a sub system and replacing the speakers, hopefully the Alpine amp will push enough power to keep everything supplied with enough power

I see a lot of mixed opinions on the dash speakers, but I think I'll replace the ones on the sides, and just unplug the center channel. These are what I'm thinking of using there
JL Audio TR350-CXi 3.5" Evolution TR Series Coaxial Car Speakers

As for the doors, I know a lot of people say ditch the back or at least don't bother with it, but I've always been a fan of being completely surrounded by the music lol, to each their own. I was thinking these 6x9's in the doors (really don't feel like messing with components this time around). Heard very good things about Polk, and actually listened to these in Futureshop on the weekend. I was impressed to say the least
Polk Audio db691 6" x 9" dB Series Marine Grade Car Speakers

Does anyone know if it's worth the effort of messing with the roof speakers? Open to ideas there



And on to the party piece, the subs. I'm looking at getting Net Audio's dual 10" low box, they claim 1.6cu ft of airspace. I can not fibreglass, and I'm willing to pay for a quality product, any thoughts on their boxes is welcome.

For the woofers I'm planning on using RE Audio's new SEXv2 10D4 subs, I had the 12" first gen of them in my car and I had absolutely zero complaints, amazing subs for a good price. RE claim that the optimal airspace for each sub is .65cu ft, plus they displace .14cu ft each, so the 1.6cu ft box would be absolutely bang on for these speakers.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68084_RE-Audio-SEXv2-10D4.html
https://www.netaudiowf.com/store/dodge-ram-2/2002-2014-dodge-ram-quad-cab-sub-box-dual-low/

As for an amp for the subs, I'm not terribly up to date on amps, but I was thinking of using RE's USX 45KV.1, and wiring them down to 1Ohm.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68122_RE-Audio-USX-45KV.1.html

And finally, I'm going to use an amp install kit from the guys at Knukonceptz, they make one hell of a product. Sorry about the wall of text, but I like to have a firm plan in mind before I get into a project
 

Power247

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Sounds like you have a great plan. I have not replaced any speakers in my truck yet but will be starting soon. In all my reading i have not found anyone that noticed measurable gains by replacing the headliner speakers. Since I never ride in the back seat I will probably never change mine unless the blow or something.
 

Graygoose

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Link to 6x9's dont work, but you state marine coax?
 

BlkRamRt

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good start. if you buy the speakers from crutchfield they give you the wire harness so they can be plug and play. not sure if sonic offers that.
 
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Alex

Alex

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Link to 6x9's dont work, but you state marine coax?

Eh, they're "marine grade" lol. The link works for me, it goes to Polk DB691 3-way 6x9s

Thanks for the responses folks. Hoping I can order a few parts next payday
 

autokraftgt

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I would not use marine grade speakers in a car/truck.
Marine grade speakers are constructed with moisture resistant materials (especially the cone/surround) which in turn will dramatically effect the tone of the speaker.
Marine speakers tend to have a very dry/muffled sound and they are designed to play in an open air environment versus a closed environment of a car/truck.
Obviously they will work...but the clarity and detail will not be there as much as a car audio speaker....
there is a reason most manufacturers have a marine grade section specifically....they are a whole different animal
 
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Alex

Alex

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I would not use marine grade speakers in a car/truck.
Marine grade speakers are constructed with moisture resistant materials (especially the cone/surround) which in turn will dramatically effect the tone of the speaker.
Marine speakers tend to have a very dry/muffled sound and they are designed to play in an open air environment versus a closed environment of a car/truck.
Obviously they will work...but the clarity and detail will not be there as much as a car audio speaker....
there is a reason most manufacturers have a marine grade section specifically....they are a whole different animal

Good to know, thanks for the heads up! I'll look around for some different 6x9's then
 
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