jlpowell84
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2016
- Posts
- 527
- Reaction score
- 132
- Ram Year
- 2012
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
Hey all. Been infected with the "modin disease" and I have come to installing this part. I may not do it still but if I end up doing it I want to be throughly prepared. It shipped out today and will be here Tuesday of next week and the following Sat is when I would get it done.
I have looked at a few threads and watched a vid of a gen 3 install. It seems this install has no tough bolts to reach, no stupid tight angles and no 13 yr old arms needed to reach the bolts...aka header installs...
Basically I am looking for any pointers, tips, tool lists (extension lengths?) etc. I have access to a lift and a trans lift so thats all covered. Also my mechanic will be next door if I run into any trouble. Essentially he will do it but I kinda want to attack it and think I can get the job done. To be fair I punted the headers to my muffler shop as it was a bit too much for me. I wasn't not confident in removing all manifold bolts without breaking any and some of the angles and working areas were too tight. I started on the hard driver side and got to the manifold bolts but stopped there. So if you feel this TQ instal is harder and I should defer fire away, I can take it So far my install are only an MBRP bolt on cat back and remove clutch fan/install efan with 180 stat. I have installed water pumps and basic stuff, never dropped a tranny so this would be the biggest job so far.
I found this from another site.
"Basically:
- Disconnect battery
- Set parking brake (unless you're going to be in the air)
- Remove driveshaft (or shafts if you are 4x4)
- Disconnect wiring from transmission and any wiring that is retained by the trans (my O2 sensor wiring is clipped to the top of it)
- Start unbolting, I started at the rear trans mount, then removed the crossmember
- Support trans with trans jack (these are INVALUABLE)
- Unbolt tie bar up front, this just bolted between the frame pieces, but it was in the way
- Unbolt girdle piece between engine and trans, this will allow you access to TC bolts
- Unbolt TC bolts
- Remove bellhousing bolts
- You will need a jack to support the engine itself since the trans mount usually does the rear supporting
- Here comes the fun part, you will need to wiggle the f*ck out of the trans to get it to come off the engine, you will end up doubting yourself and checking to see if you missed any bolts 12 times, just keep wiggling
- Once it's out, you can remove the TC, be careful it's heavy (full of fluid)
- Fill your new TC with fluid (you'll end up spilling some)
- Put new TC on to input shaft, you should feel 2 engagements, as the TC turns the input shaft AND the pump, make sure this goes all the way in like it's supposed to or you will regret it when you try to put it back in
- Reverse all steps, make sure you don't forget the stamped steel plate that goes between the engine and trans
- Once you're ready to start, set parking brake and shift engine to neutral, start engine and allow to warm up so you can check the fluid level (fluid check done while war, running and on level ground), top off fluid
- If you are able, reset transmission adaptives (not quick learn)
- Go for a drive
Now would also be a good time to put a nicer aftermarket pan on (with capacity and cooling fins) and maybe a bigger trans cooler if there is one for yours."
Here are some other pointers
"Best piece of advise is measure the depth of the stock converter when you drop the tranny. That way you can compare it after you install the new one. Alot of guys mess up at that specific part of the install. Make sure it clicks 3 times going on the imput shaft of the tranny."
"I drove down to delaware to do the install at MGH's shop this afternoon. Mike and his friend, Tom, were beasts and had it installed (start to finish) in less than 4hrs! I was mostly getting in the way. haha At least an hour of that time was because the stock tc bolts are bigger than the holes on the edge. Mike had to drill out and retap the holes on the edge tc and then sand down the length of the bolts.
So... now you guys know that the '12 flywheel/tc bolts won't work with the edge tc.
The tc is def. the best mod I've done so far! It feels like it has power throughout the entire rpm range. Feels totally different taking off from a dead stop. You don't get that lag when you feel like somethings holding you back."
So I assume Edge has refined their units so everything fits right, this was posted in 2012...
I have looked at a few threads and watched a vid of a gen 3 install. It seems this install has no tough bolts to reach, no stupid tight angles and no 13 yr old arms needed to reach the bolts...aka header installs...
Basically I am looking for any pointers, tips, tool lists (extension lengths?) etc. I have access to a lift and a trans lift so thats all covered. Also my mechanic will be next door if I run into any trouble. Essentially he will do it but I kinda want to attack it and think I can get the job done. To be fair I punted the headers to my muffler shop as it was a bit too much for me. I wasn't not confident in removing all manifold bolts without breaking any and some of the angles and working areas were too tight. I started on the hard driver side and got to the manifold bolts but stopped there. So if you feel this TQ instal is harder and I should defer fire away, I can take it So far my install are only an MBRP bolt on cat back and remove clutch fan/install efan with 180 stat. I have installed water pumps and basic stuff, never dropped a tranny so this would be the biggest job so far.
I found this from another site.
"Basically:
- Disconnect battery
- Set parking brake (unless you're going to be in the air)
- Remove driveshaft (or shafts if you are 4x4)
- Disconnect wiring from transmission and any wiring that is retained by the trans (my O2 sensor wiring is clipped to the top of it)
- Start unbolting, I started at the rear trans mount, then removed the crossmember
- Support trans with trans jack (these are INVALUABLE)
- Unbolt tie bar up front, this just bolted between the frame pieces, but it was in the way
- Unbolt girdle piece between engine and trans, this will allow you access to TC bolts
- Unbolt TC bolts
- Remove bellhousing bolts
- You will need a jack to support the engine itself since the trans mount usually does the rear supporting
- Here comes the fun part, you will need to wiggle the f*ck out of the trans to get it to come off the engine, you will end up doubting yourself and checking to see if you missed any bolts 12 times, just keep wiggling
- Once it's out, you can remove the TC, be careful it's heavy (full of fluid)
- Fill your new TC with fluid (you'll end up spilling some)
- Put new TC on to input shaft, you should feel 2 engagements, as the TC turns the input shaft AND the pump, make sure this goes all the way in like it's supposed to or you will regret it when you try to put it back in
- Reverse all steps, make sure you don't forget the stamped steel plate that goes between the engine and trans
- Once you're ready to start, set parking brake and shift engine to neutral, start engine and allow to warm up so you can check the fluid level (fluid check done while war, running and on level ground), top off fluid
- If you are able, reset transmission adaptives (not quick learn)
- Go for a drive
Now would also be a good time to put a nicer aftermarket pan on (with capacity and cooling fins) and maybe a bigger trans cooler if there is one for yours."
Here are some other pointers
"Best piece of advise is measure the depth of the stock converter when you drop the tranny. That way you can compare it after you install the new one. Alot of guys mess up at that specific part of the install. Make sure it clicks 3 times going on the imput shaft of the tranny."
"I drove down to delaware to do the install at MGH's shop this afternoon. Mike and his friend, Tom, were beasts and had it installed (start to finish) in less than 4hrs! I was mostly getting in the way. haha At least an hour of that time was because the stock tc bolts are bigger than the holes on the edge. Mike had to drill out and retap the holes on the edge tc and then sand down the length of the bolts.
So... now you guys know that the '12 flywheel/tc bolts won't work with the edge tc.
The tc is def. the best mod I've done so far! It feels like it has power throughout the entire rpm range. Feels totally different taking off from a dead stop. You don't get that lag when you feel like somethings holding you back."
So I assume Edge has refined their units so everything fits right, this was posted in 2012...
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