Hello I’m new this area and wanted to start servicing my own truck

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Djaws

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Hello I’m new this area and wanted to start servicing my own truck which is an 4x4 andespecially the differentials front and back including the transfer. The truck is coming up on 63,000 miles so I would like to service it sooner rather than later. My back ratio is 3.92 for my front I have no clue so I was curious on what fluids I should use for those and my transfer case as well. One other thing if anyone would know the torque specs for the differential casing or at least know where I could find them. I guess one last thing is lube locker a good product to use in my case or just go with the regular silicone sealer for the casings.
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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Front & Rear have same gear ratio on 4x4, I use a gasket whenever possible, but sometimes you have to use, Permatex makes the right stuff that does a good job! use the search bar upper right corner for proper fluids and torque settings. I use Redline lubricants there are many others, make sure you use friction modifiers in the differential if it has anti spin differential or open differential.
 
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06 Dodge

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Hello I’m new this area and wanted to start servicing my own truck which is an 4x4 andespecially the differentials front and back including the transfer. The truck is coming up on 63,000 miles so I would like to service it sooner rather than later. My back ratio is 3.92 for my front I have no clue so I was curious on what fluids I should use for those and my transfer case as well. One other thing if anyone would know the torque specs for the differential casing or at least know where I could find them. I guess one last thing is lube locker a good product to use in my case or just go with the regular silicone sealer for the casings.
Being its a 22 you should be able to reuse the gasket on the diff covers so long as you take care taking them off, I just had mine service and they reused the the dif cover gaskets, as for what weight to use look at your owner's manual, as for torque setting I always used good and tight, it's never failed me, but dont be king kong and use brute force when you tighten them.. BTW use 3 stages of tightening when you reinstalled the bolts....
 

joesstripclub

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Do 5th gens not come with drain plugs anymore? When I serviced the diffs on my 4th gen there were drain plugs on the covers so no need to pull and worry about resealing.

As far as fluids I've always had good luck with redline or amsoil gear oils. Assuming you have limited slip you'll need a fluid with friction modifier included or you may need to add some. The bag bottles amsoil sells are super helpful if you dont have a fluid pump.

Mopar recommends unicorn tears for your transfer case ($$$) but you will see plenty of people swap in ATF without issue ($).
 

Burla

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Buy the bags, either Amsoil SG or Valvoline, then you don't need a pump. 75w90 for front, 75w140 for rear, should be 2 quarts in front 3 in the rear, always good to have extra on hand. Of course, never over fill, when the oil comes out top hole it's done. Check when warm for foam, it ok if a little comes out, short trip. Both with diff and t-case always remove top bolt or grommet first, never do bottom first as if there is an issue you will not have any fluid in that item.
 

Burla

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Transfer cases crack easy, use a paint or chalk line so you can tighten bolt same exact spot it is in now. Then don't worry about torque numbers or wrench. Use blue tape and leave a center line open and paint.
 

RamDiver

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Transfer cases crack easy, use a paint or chalk line so you can tighten bolt same exact spot it is in now. Then don't worry about torque numbers or wrench. Use blue tape and leave a center line open and paint.

What if the the transfer case plug wasn't torqued properly in the first place?

.
 

Burla

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T case if it didn't leak it was tight enough, if the case didn't crack it wasn't too tight. Plus, if something was over torqued to start with and then that part lived like that for 60k miles, you think going back to original torque spec is a good idea? That is how you can get a leak unless you are putting in a new part.
 

RamDiver

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T case if it didn't leak it was tight enough, if the case didn't crack it wasn't too tight. Plus, if something was over torqued to start with and then that part lived like that for 60k miles, you think going back to original torque spec is a good idea? That is how you can get a leak unless you are putting in a new part.

So why do they bother with a torque spec? :cool:

This approach reminds me of the technique of refilling only the amount drained from a tranny or transfer case.

I'm supposed to trust the previous state was correct or sufficient?

.
 
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Burla

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It generally works til you over spec it. My favorite uncle ran a machine shop his entire working life, good job good gig. Making bolts for no other then the US military and localities and yes engineers. Each bolt has a built in elastic stage or plastic stage, once you use up the elastic stage on over torque it enters the plastic stage, and then your original torque is no longer the correct torque. So if a bolt is 11 inch pounds and the elastic stage is 13, once you hit 14 inch pounds you have ruined the characteristics of the original spec.
 
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crazy jerry

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get a factory service manual before you screw everything up.
 

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