Help, broke 2 transmission pan bolts

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autobotgears

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I talked to an old friend used to be a mechanic at work, few years ago he opened up his own shop with his buddy. Once I get the pan and new bolts, I'll either tow it there or drive it there.
Would CAA tow me to a shop in this situation? (working on my own car etc.) I know you have to wait 48 hours after joining caa to use it
 

RamInfo

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The 1/4” snap on was about the size of a standard 3/8 ratchet, 2 fingers would run it.
I mainly used it when working on motorcycles back in last century, but not very often.
I seem to remember 15 inch pounds on case bolts on 1

The Japanese love Philips fasteners
With soft heads, a hammer and chisel usally fixed it.

Off topic, sorry, but a lot of case screws on Japanese motorcycles were ruined because Phillips bits were used on them instead of the correct JIS bits. We’d usually use an impact screwdriver to knock them loose, then replace them with Allen heads. And the owners would strip those out, too.

Best,
RI
 

Marshall

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I hear you, way back on the farm , you where real lucky to fine a screw driver that had any sharp edges left, let alone the proper one,
BTW brother bought ? /Traded beer for a Triumph 750, 1950's I think that had a knock , crank , rod where worn bad, he tuned up the crank with file and sandpaper and fitted the rod, it ran quite good for the time he had it.

Last yr. I was going throu my photos looking for a picture of my HD45 I restored , could not find one, but did find a picture of his Triumph cica about 1960.
Wish I had used a camera way more back in the day.
Had a Indian Chief and never took a picture.
 

mgturbo1

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If you've seen it on the Internet it's fake news
Do not believe anything you read on the Internet
By a service manual and not a fake one but a real mopar service manual from Mopar
 

truck2014

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IMO , don't use a torque wrench on those transmission bolts . I think you are better served to just tighten with a 1/4" ratchet , and socket , extension if needed .I never put a torque wrench on such small bolts . Just finished doing my Cummins transmission fluid , and filter change for the second time , just tighen up those small bolts with a reasonable feel . The 68rfe calls for RTV gasket , did it the first time ,what a pain . This second time with a reusable gasket from Geno's . No leaks , and no broken bolts . Again no way would I ever use a torque wrench on those small bolts . Wheel torque , or bigger bolts , yes .

What's the worse case , a leak ? What's the solution then , just go back in a pattern side to side ,front back , and retighten . IMO a small leaks going to be a lot easier to fix then broken bolts .

Same with my differential bolts ,no torquing , just a feel when tightening .
 

pscarbor

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I changed the fluid and filter in 2009 Ram 65RFE last year. I used a gasket. In the past the method I've used was to carefully tighten the bolts while holding a finger on the gap between the pan and engine. When I'd feel the gasket begin to push out that was tight enough.

This time in addition to that method I used a very accurate 1/4 inch torque wrench and tightened in steps beginning at 15 in/lbs. I got to 60 in/lbs when I felt one of the bolts begin to strip out. At that point I torqued the rest to 60 in/lbs and stopped tightening. I had not felt the gasket bulging at that point and 60 in/lbs is below what the service manual specifies.

I thought it would probably leak and I'd wind up drilling and helicoiling but it's been over a year and so far so good.

I don't like using RTV on transmission or oil pans. It's difficult to get the right amount, I usually wind up using too much and then it gets into the transmission. Also you should let it dry overnight before addiing fluid.

I learned my lesson about changing fluid in a Dodge transmission: Just don't do it. Dodge automatic transmissions will go out in 150k miles or so whether you change the fluid or not. I will never change the transmission fluid and filters in mine again.
 

truck2014

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I changed the fluid and filter in 2009 Ram 65RFE last year. I used a gasket. In the past the method I've used was to carefully tighten the bolts while holding a finger on the gap between the pan and engine. When I'd feel the gasket begin to push out that was tight enough.

This time in addition to that method I used a very accurate 1/4 inch torque wrench and tightened in steps beginning at 15 in/lbs. I got to 60 in/lbs when I felt one of the bolts begin to strip out. At that point I torqued the rest to 60 in/lbs and stopped tightening. I had not felt the gasket bulging at that point and 60 in/lbs is below what the service manual specifies.

I thought it would probably leak and I'd wind up drilling and helicoiling but it's been over a year and so far so good.

I don't like using RTV on transmission or oil pans. It's difficult to get the right amount, I usually wind up using too much and then it gets into the transmission. Also you should let it dry overnight before addiing fluid.

I learned my lesson about changing fluid in a Dodge transmission: Just don't do it. Dodge automatic transmissions will go out in 150k miles or so whether you change the fluid or not. I will never change the transmission fluid and filters in mine again.

Well after reading this , sure reaffirmed my method of tightening small bolts on transmissions, and differentials . Leave that torque wrench in the tool box , and use reusable gaskets .

Good luck on that analogy, never change the fluid , and filters on a transmission. There’s many that have gone way beyond 150k .
 

Marshall

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I am not sure on the CAA thing, I paid them for years and never use them, out in the sticks, They may tow it under their coverage?
I renewed couple yrs ago as they offered a 10% coverage on hearing aids , so I was money ahead.
Only time I ever used CAA, but in the big cities ,Could be a good thing to have.

One thing I know, if you are not into wrenching on trucks, do not start the hobby by trying to drill out small hard bolts laying in the dirt with chips in your eyes.
It is a hell of a job sometimes. Simple if you can use the drill press and hi end drill bits. Canadian tire is not the place to buy this stuff.

Good luck. Some times its way cheaper to write a cheque .

PS , The last transmission I worked on was 727's so its been a while.
My son is trained on these things and such.
 
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Dusty

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Was doing a solenoid and filters change (got the engine code and truck was in 4th gear limp mode). I bought a torque wrench specifically for this. As I was tightening everything back up to 20 nm, I felt the torque wrench let go (thought the wrench was bad at first).
Ended up 2 bolt heads came off.
The permatex gasket maker I bought said to "finger tighten bolts until silicone begins to squeeze out around flange. Let dry one hour then tighten to specified torque". I did this.
Took the pan off, cleaned all the rtv off.

Whats my next step? Bolts broke are countersunk. What if I used self centering drill bits and drilled them out?
Any recommendation on replacement bolts?
I'm in GTA Canada if that matters
Thanks
Trevor
Just curious how much sealant you used. If you flood the cavity of the countersunk hole you can compress the sealant beyond the bolt's yield. I've seen it done.

A light coating of Locktite blue on the bolt threads is all you need.

As to broken bolt removal Starrett makes (or made) a pilot guide plate to ensure the drill remains centered on the bolt. Others may have simpler or better suggestions.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 131940 miles.
 

Stoffregen Motors

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Don't know if anyone has brought it up, but torque values change when lubricant is used. In this case, the sealant (RTV) acts as a lubricant on the head and threads. When a lubricant is used, deduct 25-30% of the torque. So if the torque was 12nm, the real number, with silicone sealant on the threads/head,is about 8nm.
 

pscarbor

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Well after reading this , sure reaffirmed my method of tightening small bolts on transmissions, and differentials . Leave that torque wrench in the tool box , and use reusable gaskets .

Good luck on that analogy, never change the fluid , and filters on a transmission. There’s many that have gone way beyond 150k .
Not that many. Dodge is known for good engines and crappy transmissions.
 

truck2014

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Not that many. Dodge is known for good engines and crappy transmissions.
I believe you are living in the past on the old transmissions with the Dodge , Ram trucks . Even the 68RFE is a very reliable transmission these days , as well as my 2014 68RFE , left alone , regular maintenance, no tuners , deleted etc , left in stock form .

Then of course the Aisin , you may have forgot about . The days of crappy transmissions are gone , as said you are living in the past
 

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