Help, Cam / lifter change 4 miles truck stops

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Yardbird

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Pulled the heads today. Every valve, intake and exhaust on both heads have a mark on them from touching the pistons. I took heads to machine shop to be redone. He said if they touched they will probably be bent.
I turned the engine over until timing chain and gears were matched up again. They are still in time. Top gear at 12 o’clock with double mark in chain on both sides of phaser mark and lower gear with mark on chain on tooth with mark. I knew that’s what I would find.
so that means the only possible problem is either the phaser or VVT solenoid.
is there any relearn procedure for the pcm when the phaser is replaced?
I called summit because I bought everything from them except the VVT solenoid. That came from federated. They are telling me I need to call Melling since it’s their phaser and get an RMA to return parts to them. So tomorrow I’ll be on the phone with melling.
im interested in figuring out what went wrong so I dont have this issue again.
‘please give me any knowledge you may have. These heads will be expensive to repair and I don’t want to do them again.
Thanks Rodney
Just because the marks line up doesn't mean the keyways havent sheared or bend from either phaser or crank bolt not being tightened properly.

Pull the phaser and crank gear and check them out. May be the phaser, but you need to eliminate all possibilities before accessing blame.
 
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rod7515

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yardbird I would agree. I will be pulling the gears off tomorrow.

i contacted Melling corp today but the customer service was not very helpful. All he would talk about was to send the phaser back and they would do an analysis of the part. He wouldn’t try to offer anything else. Wouldn’t talk about how the phaser operates at all.

The sales tech at summit ask if there is any tool that is supposed to be used to install the phaser? I Have ever heard of any. Is there? Also does the PCM need a relearn when all this is complete
i will post the findings tomorrow.
‘Thanks Rod
 

Sillygoose

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mmx is "modern muscle extreme" - they specialize in hemi performance and have a slew of youtube videos
 
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rod7515

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Finally pulled the phaser and chain off and looks like you guys that said the cam pin sheared are correct. The pin is sheared. Did i over torgue the cam bolt? Should i have replaced it instead of reusing it which i will replace it this time for sure. Im seeing 2 different specs, 72 ft lbs and 90 ft lbs. Of course i saw the 90 the first time so is that the cause? I put the bolt back in the cam and spun it around. It spins fairly free however there is one spot that drags a little. Did that cause it? Ive put motors together that were much tighter over the years so i struggle to believe that would have been the cause but then i was sure the pin wouldnt have sheared either. Lol
Next question is what is a good method of replacing that pin? Drill it out at machine shop? Where do i get a replacement pin? I think someone here said they have a bag full of them.
The phaser has a small burr that the shop is going to clean up. Im guessing it should be fine to reuse it? The salesmen at summit may be able to get it swapped out as hes been very good talking to me over the last 2 nights. I'll see tonight what they can do.
Im tired of this job. Lol i just want to get it back on the road. Its taking up my time that should be going to my 66 Dart.
I do want to thank everyone for your help and the information you have passed on. Its been very humbling to see this happen to me.
Rod
 
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rod7515

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One thing i forgot, when removing the exhaust manifolds to take heads to machine shop I found 1 broken stud. Called the Ram dealership to get a full set and they tell me they only sell them separate, no sets. Does anyone sell them in sets and if not would you buy them all or just the one that’s broken?
Rod
 

Lee Peterson

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jws123 is the guy who bought 100 pins to fix his sheared cam pin here's his thread https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2009-ram-1500-5-7-cam-pin-sheared-off.184004/page-2 . The cam bolts are torque to yield and should be replaced. Make sure you spray some break clean in the cam bolt hole, you want all traces of oil out of the hole. If any oil is in the hole it will cause the bolt to hydrolock and give false torque. Use some blue locktite and torque OEM cam bolt to 90ft lbs.​

 
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rod7515

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I guess I’ll be calling the dealer to get the correct torque spec for the new cam bolt. I’ve googled it and I see charts that say 65, 70, 72, 85 and 90 ft lbs. I torqued it to 90 the first time around.
I have a new factory Mopar cam on the way as well as a new Mopar phaser. Going with the Mopar parts the costs are almost $150 more. The mopar oe cam replacement is $50 less then the Melling cam but the mopar phaser is $200 more then the melling phaser was. Summit has been very good to work with as they are taking them back as defective parts.
i ordered an exhaust manifold bolt kit from summit but I’ve got a feeling it’s not going to be correct.
Well it’s off to remove the radiator so I can pull the cam out. I also need to check all push rods to make sure non are bent.
Bad thing about this whole mess I’m still not sure why the cam pin broke in the first place to cause all this….
Rod
 

Yorke2112

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Mopar factory service manual says Camshaft Phaser Bolt- 72 ft. Ibs.
 
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rod7515

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Thank you for confirming that. Thats what I’m going with. I spoke with summit yesterday around 4 pm in afternoon and my cam and phaser arrived about 4 today. Unbelievable service. And to top that off I called last night around 9 pm because I had forgotten to order new head bolts since the ones I took off had already been torqued and summit will take care of head gaskets and bolt sets. So glad I use them as my vender.
ROD
 

Yardbird

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That is excellent customer service from Summit. Something rarely seen today. My hat is off to them.
 
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rod7515

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Wanted to update this replacement. All parts have arrived and i picked up the heads today with 16 new valves and 1 new valve guide. Already put them on the truck today. Also i put the new mopar OEM cam, phaser and chain/lower gear on. I was at the Ram dealer today and spoke with their tech. He told me he doednt even torgue thr phaser he just hits it with his 3/8 impact gun. I'll torque mine to 72 ft lbs. Lol. Tomorrow i hope to get intake on and reinstall the exhsust manifolds. I did find one broken stud so bought a new one. Stud n nut was 19.85. Way overpriced! Any way hopefully by weeks end my truck is running again. Cross my fingers. Lol
Rod
 

Lee Peterson

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The book calls for 90ft lb why do less? It's the only thing keeping the phaser in time the pin doesn't hold it at all. That dealership guys an idiot, and is just getting lucky that his impact is probably torquing it closer to 100 + ftlb!
 

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jws123

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I have always done 90ftlbs never a issue and thats what it calls for.
 
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rod7515

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Well truck is up and running. I put 30 miles on it today. Runs great and is very quiet. So in the end i ended up with the factory mopar cam and factory mopar phaser. Summit stocks both. I did have to use seal power lifters. Im going to use the royal purple oil going forward. I will be changing the oil at 100 miles this first time.

I did want to thank everyone that gave advice and helped me get back on the road. Your help was greatly appreciated.
Rod
 
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rod7515

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I thought many members here use the royal ourple and like it. Originally ibqwas going to use the penn grade 5-20.
What is the preferred oil? I was using mobile 1.
I have acces to many different oils so what do you use in your 5.7 hemi? What is your recommendations?
Rod
 

jws123

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I thought many members here use the royal ourple and like it. Originally ibqwas going to use the penn grade 5-20.
What is the preferred oil? I was using mobile 1.
I have acces to many different oils so what do you use in your 5.7 hemi? What is your recommendations?
Rod
Everyone has their own opinion its like going down a rabbit hole when talking ab oil lol however most if not all of us switch to 5w30 20 is to thin for the hemi persononnly I use penzoil synthetic mobile 1 made my truck tap.
 
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