Help for Tow Dummy

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Dave Haddon

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2021 Ram Crew 4x4 Hemi 5.7...can someone advise what would be the trailer weight I can comfortably tow. I have spoken to 3 Trailer places and their experts gave me 3 varying numbers.
I trust you guys in the real world rather than these rookie 22 yr old sales people.
Thanks guys.
 

CanRebel

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2021 Ram Crew 4x4 Hemi 5.7...can someone advise what would be the trailer weight I can comfortably tow. I have spoken to 3 Trailer places and their experts gave me 3 varying numbers.
I trust you guys in the real world rather than these rookie 22 yr old sales people.
Thanks guys.

That is complex question. You will find some people are on here claiming 1500's can't tow more than 8000. Which is not correct.
I've done more than 10K with my truck, everything was weighted and within the Truck limits.

There are more factors then just being with in Truck limits. e.g. where you are going to be driving, how it's setup, your comfort level towing, speeds, so many things.
Some newer TT's are made just for 1500's. Usually by putting more weight on the trailer axles as example.

IN my view, length is big factor. high cross winds can affect even 2500/3500.

Make sure you have tires rated correctly.
 

crash68

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If your new to towing start somewhere in the 7K lbs mark, keeping in mind the heavier you go over 7K mean you have to make sure the weight distribution and WDH is set up correctly. The trucks are capable but it's the attention to details that will make it safe and easy to drive.
 

mtofell

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Here's a copy/paste of a post I made on a recent thread of the same topic that some people found helpful. Look to your door sticker for your payload.

The 1396# payload is usually the most important number as you run out of that pretty early on. That is how much you can put in (people, stuff in the bed) and on (trailer tongue weight) the truck. Since that # was derived as the truck was being driven off the factory line you might want to hit a scale to see what it really is. Every floor mat, aftermarket mod and piece of dirt stuck in the tire tread subtracts from that.

A quick example of what you could tow: Take a 5,000# trailer of some type. Typically, 10-15% of that weight goes on the truck (so takes away from your payload). So, you're now down to 800ish# of people and gear you can put in the truck.

The other towing number is what the truck can pull (this is often just called "max towing". IIRC, most 1500s are 7-10K depending on engine and rear gears. So, if your truck was rated at 10,000# it could only pull that with very little else in the truck since as much as 1500# of that 10K would go on the truck as payload.

Great job coming here to learn BEFORE buying something. #1 rule is don't listen to RV salesmen. As far as they're concerned any truck can tow anything. They just never finish the sentence with, "off the lot." :)
 

Travelin Ram

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Some good answers above, no need to repeat.

I will say it’s better to educate yourself on GVWR, GCVWR, weight distribution etc.

Yes, it’s effort. The payback is you’ll KNOW how to tow safely, regardless of the vehicle or load, rather than placing your trust in someone else.

It’s not really difficult stuff to learn about, and the scales are your best friend.
 

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GTyankee

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You need to familiarize this if you plan to Tow

GVWR for Jeep and RAM Vehicles​

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating can also help you differentiate between light-, medium-, and heavy-duty vehicles while you shop for your next commercial or consumer truck. Here are some of the GVWR ratings for popular models in Laveen:

  • GVWR Between 6,000-10,000 Pounds (Light-Duty): This popular segment includes models like the RAM 1500 on the lighter side and the 2500 on the heavier side. The Jeep Gladiator pickup also can get up to this category with the right equipment.
  • GVWR Between 10,001-26,000 Pounds (Medium-Duty): Within the RAM lineup, the robust RAM 3500 has a GVWR in this range.
1691095939231.png

What Is Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR)?

Gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCWR), however, is the maximum weight of a vehicle and its attached trailer. This figure is also inclusive of all passengers and cargo in both the tow vehicle and the trailer. This is also sometimes referred to as gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCVWR).
 
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Dave Haddon

Dave Haddon

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Thanks guys..this is a 1500 quad cab..alleded Max towing is 11600...not going there. The 28ft trailer i am thinking is an ultra light 5200...add to that a 4 pt Weight distribution anti sway hitch ($1200)..Dogs and gear about 800-1000lbs total distributed in 5.6 bed and rear cargo area of trailer.....no water in the trailer...I think I am OK..what do you think?
Going to the coast..Seattle area and south..
 

Jane S

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2021 Ram Crew 4x4 Hemi 5.7...can someone advise what would be the trailer weight I can comfortably tow. I have spoken to 3 Trailer places and their experts gave me 3 varying numbers.
I trust you guys in the real world rather than these rookie 22 yr old sales people.
Thanks guys.
What's "comfortably" mean to you?
 
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Dave Haddon

Dave Haddon

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Something that will not destroy my Warlock.comfortably...to do something without problems...
 

62Blazer

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Start with the factory rated towing capacity and go from there. Sure, there are other factors such as tongue weight and payload capacity of the truck but the factory rated towing capacity will get you in the right ballpark. Those factory ratings are based an industry standard SAE test that determines the numbers and includes aspects of both pulling power, engine cooling capacity, and handling ability of the truck....basically it's not some arbitrary number Ram makes up and tries to inflate to get sales.
If you are talking about a 5,200 lb. trailer and a truck rated at 11,600 lbs. I'm not even sure what the concern is. Even if you add a lot of other stuff in the trailer and bed of the truck (well, maybe if you fill the bed with rocks...) then you won't even be close to the rated capacity of the truck. People tend to way overthink towing, especially with a fairly small trailer way under the ratings of the truck. Yes, you do need to pay attention to tongue weight, payload, etc....but not like 50 lbs. difference in tongue weight makes a setup from towing perfecting to having a fiery crash and killing a bus full of nuns like some people will suggest on here.....
So my summary....a 5,200 lb. travel trailer (even if that is just the curb/base weight) should be perfectly fine as long as it's at least halfway setup correctly.
 

rzr6-4

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Thanks guys..this is a 1500 quad cab..alleded Max towing is 11600...not going there. The 28ft trailer i am thinking is an ultra light 5200...add to that a 4 pt Weight distribution anti sway hitch ($1200)..Dogs and gear about 800-1000lbs total distributed in 5.6 bed and rear cargo area of trailer.....no water in the trailer...I think I am OK..what do you think?
Going to the coast..Seattle area and south..

The sketchiest thing I've ever pulled, I would ballpark 15K lb on an '05 Sierra, and that was a bumper pull. That was two trailers in line with each other. Your vehicle is newer and more capable than that pickup was, so the load as you describe should be easy money as long as you get you weight distributed evenly.

It all depends on how comfortable you are with your set up. Having grown up on a farm, idgaf what the tow rating says, I now what it can handle and what is better left to the diesel with the gooseneck.
 

crash68

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Dogs and gear about 800-1000lbs total distributed in 5.6 bed and rear cargo area of trailer.....no water in the trailer...I think I am OK..what do you think?
Get the WDH set up properly tuned in for the fully loaded weight of the truck and trailer and you should be able to travel with cruise set.
 

mtofell

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Need the payload from YOUR door sticker. Brochure weights are a rough guideline but until we know that we're just throwing darts.

If you have 1000# of gear in the truck and a 1300# payload you don't have capacity for the tongue weight of that trailer. Payload is what you'll run out of first. You only mention one weight, the11K towing (pulling weight). As I said in my post, most half-tons run out of payload (carrying weight) first..... again, derived form the # on your door post or by weighing your truck.
 

tron67j

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This above, we need your payload capacity to answer this question. Charts are generic data.

On your door sticker will be the maximum payload capacity. Next, load truck with all fluids, people, hitch, gear they carry and go to a CAT scale and get your weight. Subtract this from the gvwr on the door jamb and this is your remaining payload capacity.

With a 1500 you will run out of PC and tow no where near your max trailer rating. Just for argument, say you have 1200 pounds of payload remaining from above CAT scale trip. If you take an average of 15% tongue weight to trailer weight, the math is 1200 / 15% = 8,000 pound fully loaded trailer as your maximum. Very important to try to at least weigh tongue weight if any trailer you are considering and be very wary of the sticker on the trailer

Good luck.
 

Panduh

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You need to familiarize this if you plan to Tow

GVWR for Jeep and RAM Vehicles​

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating can also help you differentiate between light-, medium-, and heavy-duty vehicles while you shop for your next commercial or consumer truck. Here are some of the GVWR ratings for popular models in Laveen:

  • GVWR Between 6,000-10,000 Pounds (Light-Duty): This popular segment includes models like the RAM 1500 on the lighter side and the 2500 on the heavier side. The Jeep Gladiator pickup also can get up to this category with the right equipment.
  • GVWR Between 10,001-26,000 Pounds (Medium-Duty): Within the RAM lineup, the robust RAM 3500 has a GVWR in this range.
View attachment 525814

What Is Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR)?

Gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCWR), however, is the maximum weight of a vehicle and its attached trailer. This figure is also inclusive of all passengers and cargo in both the tow vehicle and the trailer. This is also sometimes referred to as gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCVWR).
Also note the GAWR REAR. It's awfully easy to overload that rear axle even when within total payload limits. With a properly set up WDH and careful trailer loading, you'll be ok. Just check on CAT scales when fully loaded to be sure.
 

mtofell

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Also note the GAWR REAR. It's awfully easy to overload that rear axle even when within total payload limits.
Huh? FAWR is usually very static so really the rear is the only one that really changes and is typically much more generous. This is actually at the heart of an ongoing and HUGE argument within the towing world (message forums, etc.). Should one follow the more restrictive payload or go by the more generous RAWR?

I'll stop short of saying your 100% wrong since I've not studied every truck out there but in years of towing and talking trucks on forums I've never seen a truck that could exceed an axle rating and be within payload specs. The only conceivable way I can see would be to stack things on your hood instead of in the bed of the truck and overload the front axle?

As an example, my 2500 has a payload of 3000# - front axle weighs roughly 4500# and the rear (empty) 2500# - So, 3000# in the bed and I'm at my 10K payload but my rear axle is rated for 6500#
 
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star_deceiver

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While bigger trailers have space, it can be a nightmare to find a site unless you like being nuts to buts with your neighbours at the RV park.

You can find plenty of sites in the wilderness that will easily accommodate a trailer less than 25'. And you can get a great deal on a 4+ yr old trailer that has had all the factory garbage fixed.

FWIW, my 223rbs weighs about 5600lbs with 900lbs tongue and I tow it well with less truck than you.
 

TomB 1269

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Here is the equation I use:
Remaining payload divided by .115 or 11.5%
So look at your trucks door sticker to find you payload limit, then subtract the weight of what will be in the truck when towing, i.e. you the wife the kids, dog, etc.
Also subtract the weight of any add-ons to the truck, i.e. cap, bed cover, step boards, etc.
This will give you remaining payload.
Truck Pay load = 1500#
Wife Kids etc = 825#
Remaining pay load = 675
675/.115= 5870#
This is in theory the max trailer "GROSS" weight you would want to purchase, i.e.GVWR.

I always suggest buying something in which you can tow its gross wieght, as in most cases you will find that with in a year or so of use that your "collection" of camping equipement along with food, clothes, bedding, etc. will get you very close to this number.

One area that you can fudge is with respect to the water tanks. As water is 8+lbs per gallon (30 gallons of water = 240+lbs), gray and black water will be more. So if you are running tanks empty there is a bit of GVWR that you can deduct (or actually add, i.e. GVWR for trailer is 6000# but you plan to never run wet to could take the %870# in our example and add 600-700lbs assuming you have 30 gallon water, as well as 30 gallon gray and black water tanks), but you will be pushing the limits if any of these have any real volume while towing.

Note: 11.5% to 13% is the the average tongue wieght for a travel trailer. Toy haulers start with higher "dry" tongue weight but level out as you add the toy weight, i.e. toy haulers dry tongue weights will be in the 17%-20% range, but the percentage decreases as you add proper topy weight to the rear of the trailer. 5th wheels run around 25% of trailers weight on the pin.
 
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