Help with possible trailer purchase. Can I haul it? Wife wants to buy ASAP

[mtofell]

The EASIEST math to do to figure it out is to take the GROSS weight of the trailer (not the dry) and multiply that x 15%. That is your number to use for payload calculations.

This is easy but a VERY conservative estimate and not always accurate or helpful. Trailer GVWR is derived from the axle ratings and overall construction of the trailer. In most cases manufacturers run it pretty close and CCCs (difference between GVWR and dry weight) are a couple thousand pounds. However, sometimes CCC on a trailer is ridiculously high and there's no need to pair the truck to that number if you don't plan to load up to the trailer GVWR.

Years ago I had a Salem travel trailer that weighed around 6000# dry but for whatever reason they put 5000# axles on it and it had a GVWR around 11,000#. There was no reason at all that I'd need a truck capable of carrying/pulling 11,000# if I just planned to put the usual 1500# of things in it.

 

[Qcman]

Rather than ask random strangers on the Internet, ask the trailer salesman. After all you know him and can look him straight in the face and even shake hands. They are the experts since they do this day in and day out. Go with someone you know, your new best friend at the RV dealership.

Oddly enough the RV salesperson called back today to see if we were going ahead. When my wife told her I was hesitant due to my truck being really tight on payload she assured her I would be fine with "a half ton". Didn't ask what make or model we had mind you. Just asked how much we can pull..... Oh sure if it was an F150 made out of lightweight aluminum I wouldn't be concerned either but unfortunately I have this heavy tank of a truck with friggin' coil springs that isn't exactly a payload warrior.

 

[Qcman]

Same thought here - I hope that was posted in jest. RV sales people are the worst. If you don't go in knowing what you can/can't haul and how the dynamics of RVs are different from cargo trailers, you'll end up with a trailer that technically falls in your (manufacturer BS) tow rating but puts you WAY over on payload/axle ratings of your tow vehicle.

I had an RV salesman try to tell me that my 'Wagon could pull a 38ft front-living fifth wheel. We didn't stay there much longer.

He was right it can pull it..........once!

 

[Qcman]

This is easy but a VERY conservative estimate and not always accurate or helpful. Trailer GVWR is derived from the axle ratings and overall construction of the trailer. In most cases manufacturers run it pretty close and CCCs (difference between GVWR and dry weight) are a couple thousand pounds. However, sometimes CCC on a trailer is ridiculously high and there's no need to pair the truck to that number if you don't plan to load up to the trailer GVWR.

Years ago I had a Salem travel trailer that weighed around 6000# dry but for whatever reason they put 5000# axles on it and it had a GVWR around 11,000#. There was no reason at all that I'd need a truck capable of carrying/pulling 11,000# if I just planned to put the usual 1500# of things in it.

Agreed on not including all of the weight the trailer can carry. Both my wife and I are very mindful of being safe and protecting the truck's integrity. We told the salesperson we were passing on the trailer for now due to my concerns about safely pulling it with my truck. I'm not willing to swap out vehicles as I'm retired and I need to be a bit careful buying stuff now. So I either get comfortable that I can do this as is with the truck with the necessary addons, buy a lighter trailer or forget the whole thing. I am pretty torn at this point on whether to proceed or not based on varying feedback here.

 

[GTyankee]

I believe that FORD pickups, made their trucks out of Aluminum, & put slightly larger brakes & maybe slightly larger rear Springs to Tow More

Ram changed over to the ZF rear axles, just to lighten their Ram 11 pounds.
They also got rid of the Leaf Springs to make the Ram Ride more like a car.

But the thin Coil Springs when Towing RVs is a JOKE
& the salesman will omit things like the Sway Bar, when he or she darn well know that you are going to Tow.

Then again, how many sales people drive a Pickup, they have their mid sized Honda & are happy to get the Sales Commission from selling you a inferior product, instead of what you should be getting

 

[mtofell]

Agreed on not including all of the weight the trailer can carry. Both my wife and I are very mindful of being safe and protecting the truck's integrity. We told the salesperson we were passing on the trailer for now due to my concerns about safely pulling it with my truck. I'm not willing to swap out vehicles as I'm retired and I need to be a bit careful buying stuff now. So I either get comfortable that I can do this as is with the truck with the necessary addons, buy a lighter trailer or forget the whole thing. I am pretty torn at this point on whether to proceed or not based on varying feedback here.

Yeah, towing RVs could be a college degree program. There is just so much to it along with people with varying motivations giving you advice (mainly salesmen). There is some good advice on here but you might also try a more RV-specific site - RV.net is a place I've learned a ton. I just sold my sixth RV over the last 25 years and learned a lot with each one.

As you are aware, using any tool (or truck) at/near it's upper limits is not ideal. The Achilles heal of a half ton is the soft suspension to keep the ride comfortable. That is directly opposite of what you need to carry weight. These modern trucks are generally beasts in terms of power and that is why all the ads focus on "max towing" which is just towing/pulling. Carrying/payload is almost always going to be the limiting factor unless you're very lonely (alone in the truck) and travel very lightly.

Lastly, GREAT job coming here to ask BEFORE you own the trailer. I've seen lots of posts of people that got talked into far more trailer than they can handle by a salesman.

 

[Dean2]

The only way to really learn about towing is to tow stuff. Yes you can learn lots from good advice but my suggestion, buy a used trsiler that is about 70% of the one you are looking at. Use it a couple of years and you can resell it for very near what you paid for it. It will teach you about setting up the trailer, hauling level, and making sure it is properly balanced and loaded. Don't buy a brand new trailer until you know it is the long term right solution.

 

[dhay13]

DO NOT listen to salesmen, either the RV or the truck salesman. They typically know less than the average person when it comes to towing.
That said, I think you will be ok. I would be more concerned with GRAWR than payload. My son had a TT that sounds similar to what you are looking at. It was a 26' TT (~32' total) with a GVWR of about 8500 and dry weight of 6700 advertised. Advertised tongue weight was 670 but actual was 900. I towed it 400 miles with my 2013 1500 with 3.55's and had no issues. It was definitely at the upper limits of what I would have felt comfortable with but I also have alot of towing experience. I towed the same TT with my 2018 2500 and it was much more comfortable but I would be ok towing it again with my old 1500 if I had to. He had a TS Centerline WDH and it worked great. When I towed it down it was 200 miles there and 200 back. Going down it was brand new and empty so guessing maybe 7500lbs. Coming back it was loaded up and it scaled at 8100lbs. My 1500 was rated at 8600lbs.
I say go for it and try loading some stuff near the rear of the trailer if possible and definitely head to a CAT scale when it's all loaded. Worst case you have a great excuse for upgrading to a 2500 later on but I think the 1500 will be fine.

 

[Qcman]

Yeah, towing RVs could be a college degree program. There is just so much to it along with people with varying motivations giving you advice (mainly salesmen). There is some good advice on here but you might also try a more RV-specific site - RV.net is a place I've learned a ton. I just sold my sixth RV over the last 25 years and learned a lot with each one.

As you are aware, using any tool (or truck) at/near it's upper limits is

Lastly, GREAT job coming here to ask BEFORE you own the trailer. I've seen lots of posts of people that got talked into far more trailer than they can handle by a salesman.

Thx for the kudos oncoming here first. But kind of funny about 3 weeks ago we nearly pulled the trigger on a used 27 foot trailer that was 6900 dry and 9500 gross. I told my wife I need to check on my truck’s specs just in case and found I was at best on the bleeding edge and then some and backed out. Thank God that would have be a disaster!

I will check out that site thanks!

 

[Qcman]

The only way to really learn about towing is to tow stuff. Yes you can learn lots from good advice but my suggestion, buy a used trsiler that is about 70% of the one you are looking at. Use it a couple of years and you can resell it for very near what you paid for it. It will teach you about setting up the trailer, hauling level, and making sure it is properly balanced and loaded. Don't buy a brand new trailer until you know it is the long term right solution.

Thx yeah not looking at new at all just recently used like 2021 say.

 

[Qcman]

DO NOT listen to salesmen, either the RV or the truck salesman. They typically know less than the average person when it comes to towing.
That said, I think you will be ok. I would be more concerned with GRAWR than payload. My son had a TT that sounds similar to what you are looking at. It was a 26' TT (~32' total) with a GVWR of about 8500 and dry weight of 6700 advertised. Advertised tongue weight was 670 but actual was 900. I towed it 400 miles with my 2013 1500 with 3.55's and had no issues. It was definitely at the upper limits of what I would have felt comfortable with but I also have alot of towing experience. I towed the same TT with my 2018 2500 and it was much more comfortable but I would be ok towing it again with my old 1500 if I had to. He had a TS Centerline WDH and it worked great. When I towed it down it was 200 miles there and 200 back. Going down it was brand new and empty so guessing maybe 7500lbs. Coming back it was loaded up and it scaled at 8100lbs. My 1500 was rated at 8600lbs.
I say go for it and try loading some stuff near the rear of the trailer if possible and definitely head to a CAT scale when it's all loaded. Worst case you have a great excuse for upgrading to a 2500 later on but I think the 1500 will be fine.

Yeah I’m in a 50/50mode right now go or don’t!

 

[CanRebel]

Yeah I’m in a 50/50mode right now go or don’t!

Do what's best for you. But don't let people here decide for you...

If you read some the posts... Payload isn't as big deal as some make it out to be. You got one guy who always saying 15%, other saying 13%. The actual standard used is 10%.
But the important number is what Trailer manufacture says. If you get into an accident, the number they say is only one important, not what some random person babbles on website.

No matter what you buy, if you do. Practice around you area before going on long trip. Drive down 401 or depending where you are in Ottawa other large highway.

Have an experienced person setup the WDH for you. When packing the trailer, put as much as you can on the trailer axles.

I've seen many people load up TT's, filling the front of trailer. Truck sags, buy bags for it. When they never needed them in first place.

 

[mtofell]

You got one guy who always saying 15%, other saying 13%. The actual standard used is 10%.
But the important number is what Trailer manufacture says. If you get into an accident, the number they say is only one important, not what some random person babbles on website.

Not sure you meant it this way but is this to mean the manufacturer publishes a % or are you just saying dry weight is what matters? I've never seen a % from manufacturers... thinking that's not possible as they don't know how you'll load the trailer.

A dry tongue/pin weight mattering from a legal standpoint? Hardly... Unless you're on your way home from the dealer with an empty trailer, I suppose.

Fwiw, this starts to enter the age-old message board argument about legality and liability towing as a private citizen. I've foolishly wasted more time than I care to admit watching (and participating in) this merry-go-round. Cliff notes for those smarter than me with their time: Lots of stories of friends of friends of neighbors... Little or no actual cases. Commercial towing is under a microscope. Private? Largely no. This is why one can drive the interstate any Sunday afternoon and lose count of trucks with their headlights pointing at the sky with an oversized trailer in tow.

 

[alex6666]

While the truck is a big consideration think about the trailer a bit......any trailer built after 2019 (covid and after) is dramatically worse in quality. While the newer trailers look spanky you'll probably be buying yourself a nightmare of breakdowns that won't be covered under warranty or if they are good luck getting into a shop to do it...like three months wait to get in then another long wait for parts etc. Save some cash and buy something in the mid 2010s.....like 2015 ish. Not only were they built better but you'll save on depreciation and most of the issues, if any, will have been fixed by the previous owner. You mentioned your wife was in a big hurry.....that's the first sign your about to make a big mistake......take your time and get the right trailer for the right truck. Neighbor guy has a 2017 1500 3.92 and tows a 26 and tells me it's no problem at all and we live in the mountains. Good luck.....take your time.

 

[Qcman]

While the truck is a big consideration think about the trailer a bit......any trailer built after 2019 (covid and after) is dramatically worse in quality. While the newer trailers look spanky you'll probably be buying yourself a nightmare of breakdowns that won't be covered under warranty or if they are good luck getting into a shop to do it...like three months wait to get in then another long wait for parts etc. Save some cash and buy something in the mid 2010s.....like 2015 ish. Not only were they built better but you'll save on depreciation and most of the issues, if any, will have been fixed by the previous owner. You mentioned your wife was in a big hurry.....that's the first sign your about to make a big mistake......take your time and get the right trailer for the right truck. Neighbor guy has a 2017 1500 3.92 and tows a 26 and tells me it's no problem at all and we live in the mountains. Good luck.....take your time.

Thanks yes she was in a hurry as that's how she does stuff but we have agreed to relax and be thorough in whatever we do. I'm the cautious one so we always kind of meet in the middle on stuff in truth. We are going to look at a 24' later today. Its a 2017 https://www.bigcountryrv.ca/product/used-2017-coachmen-rv-catalina-243rbs-2660687-29 with a tongue weight of 687 and dry weight of 5762. It really isn't much lighter than the 26' in any meaningful way but it would be less of a wind sail to pull. Price is a bit high for the year IMO but might be able to get them to move some on that.

 

[Qcman]

Do what's best for you. But don't let people here decide for you...

If you read some the posts... Payload isn't as big deal as some make it out to be. You got one guy who always saying 15%, other saying 13%. The actual standard used is 10%.
But the important number is what Trailer manufacture says. If you get into an accident, the number they say is only one important, not what some random person babbles on website.

No matter what you buy, if you do. Practice around you area before going on long trip. Drive down 401 or depending where you are in Ottawa other large highway.

Have an experienced person setup the WDH for you. When packing the trailer, put as much as you can on the trailer axles.

I've seen many people load up TT's, filling the front of trailer. Truck sags, buy bags for it. When they never needed them in first place.

Agreed I'm the one that needs to decide what my comfort level is or isn't so I'm taking this all in and trying to parse through what I think are the most helpful responses and not chase other stuff into the weeds.

 

[Docwagon1776]

Ram changed over to the ZF rear axles, just to lighten their Ram 11 pounds.
They also got rid of the Leaf Springs to make the Ram Ride more like a car.

But the thin Coil Springs when Towing RVs is a JOKE
& the salesman will omit things like the Sway Bar, when he or she darn well know that you are going to Tow.

I recently saw a Ram HD (unsure if 2500 or 3500) on I-40 with a *giant* in bed camper. It was wagging side to side like the rear of an excited puppy. He had his emergency flashers on but still doing about 70mph (75mph zone). He made me seasick just passing him.

It was not windy so cross breeze wasn't the issue. Semis weren't having any problems. I don't know what was causing his oscillation other than being seriously overloaded, but I think the lack of lateral stability with coils likely contributed.

 

[alex6666]

check out Rigor RV technician on you tube......This guy is pretty experienced and his you tubes will guide you through most of the difficult rv issues and he has a pay for service which i think would probably be worth it. Most important are the slides...they always experience issues. |A wire accuslide cable system should be avoided at all costs because if it breaks it can destroy your trailer. Again good luck and take your time.....and find a good rv inspector....you'll probably save the 300 it costs either in lowering the price or walking away from a nightmare

 

[CamperMike]

Good luck on your search. My advice is to make sure the trailer has a lot of windows. Too many are really dark inside because they have very few windows. I also prefer a 23 or 24 for with a slide vs a26 without. I have a 23 for box with slide and it's just less of a sail and generally easier to fit in the site.

 

[Gero]

Not that you asked but I'd make sure your trailer is constructed with azdel.