Help with possible trailer purchase. Can I haul it? Wife wants to buy ASAP

[nlambert182]

Don't calculate anything using dry weights... you're setting yourself up for failure. RVs weigh more than the dry weight the second they hit the dealership. Dry weights don't even account for propane tanks or a battery.

 

[NotSoFast]

Small trailers tow easier and back into tight spaces easier. Fresh water tanks are generally ahead of the axles, so fresh water will hit your tongue weight pretty fast. And having some reserve will be handy when you find yourself driving with a gusty cross wind. My combination always felt rock solid until I bought new 10-ply LT tires that somehow squirm. The sidewalls seem stiff but the truck tries to wander all over the road, especially at higher speeds. It's controllable but requires more concentration. Luckily the 2500 is lots heavier than the trailer.

 

[Qcman]

Don't calculate anything using dry weights... you're setting yourself up for failure. RVs weigh more than the dry weight the second they hit the dealership. Dry weights don't even account for propane tanks or a battery.

I understand that but I am using them to compare the starting weights of trailers otherwise I have nothing to rule out the heavy ones. We have been using an assumption of 1200 lbs in trailer when towing since there is only 2 of us.

 

[Panduh]

FYI: I tow a 6500 lb. (fully loaded) 29 ft. (tongue to tail) toy hauler with a 900 lb. tongue weight, Centerline WDH. My max rear axle load is 3900 lbs. and this setup puts 3740 lbs. on that axle. Tows great, no sway, lots of power. My 2016 hemi Express crew cab is RWD with the 3:92 rear. I think you will be ok but it's important that, after you load it all up and hitch up, go to a truck stop and get on the CAT scales. This will tell you if your rear axle is loaded within your truck's specs. Even within payload, the rear axle can easily go over spec. If it does, hopefully you can shift some weight off the tongue to the rear of the trailer and maybe crank up your WDH to transfer more to the RAM's front axle.

 

[nlambert182]

I understand that but I am using them to compare the starting weights of trailers otherwise I have nothing to rule out the heavy ones. We have been using an assumption of 1200 lbs in trailer when towing since there is only 2 of us.

The GVWR is always available on the trailer sticker. Worst case, you can sum up the cargo capacity and the dry weight to calculate GVWR. Trying to assume that you know how much cargo you'll carry is the #1 mistake most new RV'ers make.

Things add up extremely quickly. If you go by GVWR and size the truck/trailer appropriately it takes out all the guess work and estimations. If you never get to the number, then you're golden. There's no issue of worrying if you need to take out the air fryer to take the bigger coffee pot.

 

[CaptOchs]

I towed more with a truck that had an 8400 tow capacity. My camper is 7000 lbs. It was a little too big for my Ford Expedition. That's why I have the '13 RAM with 5.7 / 3.92. Its rated for 10k lbs, I love it. Tows the 7000 lbs. easily.

I try and stick to the 30% rule where the trailer weighs at least 30% less than your tow capacity. Looks like that trailer you're looking at would be perfectly rated for that truck.

You'll want to get a good WDH. Also get a TPMS sensor on your trailer for these trips. You can get them pretty cheap on amazon. Go the speed you're comfortable with. I typically stick to 65 MPH to keep a good balance of speed and fuel economy. Be sure to use your tow haul mode too. I use cruise control too. Welcome to RV ownership.

 

[Qcman]

FYI: I tow a 6500 lb. (fully loaded) 29 ft. (tongue to tail) toy hauler with a 900 lb. tongue weight, Centerline WDH. My max rear axle load is 3900 lbs. and this setup puts 3740 lbs. on that axle. Tows great, no sway, lots of power. My 2016 hemi Express crew cab is RWD with the 3:92 rear. I think you will be ok but it's important that, after you load it all up and hitch up, go to a truck stop and get on the CAT scales. This will tell you if your rear axle is loaded within your truck's specs. Even within payload, the rear axle can easily go over spec. If it does, hopefully you can shift some weight off the tongue to the rear of the trailer and maybe crank up your WDH to transfer more to the RAM's front axle.

Hi thx for this it is a pretty good comparison to where I’m looking into. I am learning through looking at trailers that I’m better to stay away from the stick and tin models since the fibreglass can be a fair bit lighter especially on the hitch to the truck. My axle is also rated at 3900. Does your 3.92 have the 8 or 6 speed trans?

 

[rvance]

Air bags, 10 ply tires and the WDH. It still won't be fun with those gears but doable.

 

[Davenator]

Hi like it says. I have a 2021 Classic Crew cab with the 5.7 Hemi and 3.21 rear gear. The label on my truck says 1485 lbs of weight capacity for the truck. The trailer is 26' without tongue etc. The trailer is 5795 dry with a tongue weight of 725. The trucks tow capacity seems to be about 8000- 8200 lbs from a chart I found online.

My wife is hammering me hard to buy this ASAP and I'm panicking worrying it is too much for my truck. I've done some research here and elsewhere and it seems its either not a chance or should be fine lol. The trailer gross is 7725 but we aren't the sort of folks to carry a lot of stuff so I'm not too concerned on that end as I would try to keep added weight in the trailer as low as I can. There is only us 2 folks in the truck no other passengers. We are looking at some long hauls as we are retired. Think Ontario, Canada to Florida as the longest range we intend to travel so pretty significant. I do plan to use the stabilizing weight distribution parts with it too.

Can someone tell me I can do this or say that I should not definitively? I can get more vehicle info from door stickers uploaded if that is needed for anyone to see? Please help when my wife gets an idea stuff happens fast!

I just want to suggest something regarding the wdh. I’ve had a 12 sport, 18 sport and now a 24 Rebel gt. I was using a chain type wdh from Husky. Never could dial it in just right even with 1 then 2 sway controls on either side of it. Garbage. I have now towed twice up the Coquihalla hwy with a new Husky Centreline TS and it is solid as a rock. I went from white knuckling in higher winds to feeling nothing in winds or when being passed semi . There’s a number of wdh’s out there and you don’t need to spend ridiculous amounts of money on one, but dont get the cheap chain type ones that you install the sway control on to either side, like I did. Happy towing.

 

[rosco11]

Hi like it says. I have a 2021 Classic Crew cab with the 5.7 Hemi and 3.21 rear gear. The label on my truck says 1485 lbs of weight capacity for the truck. The trailer is 26' without tongue etc. The trailer is 5795 dry with a tongue weight of 725. The trucks tow capacity seems to be about 8000- 8200 lbs from a chart I found online.

My wife is hammering me hard to buy this ASAP and I'm panicking worrying it is too much for my truck. I've done some research here and elsewhere and it seems its either not a chance or should be fine lol. The trailer gross is 7725 but we aren't the sort of folks to carry a lot of stuff so I'm not too concerned on that end as I would try to keep added weight in the trailer as low as I can. There is only us 2 folks in the truck no other passengers. We are looking at some long hauls as we are retired. Think Ontario, Canada to Florida as the longest range we intend to travel so pretty significant. I do plan to use the stabilizing weight distribution parts with it too.

Can someone tell me I can do this or say that I should not definitively? I can get more vehicle info from door stickers uploaded if that is needed for anyone to see? Please help when my wife gets an idea stuff happens fast!

Not for very long. Make sure the trailer has its own brakes. rule of thumb, if you are going to tow something over 4000 lbs for a long distance or often, get a 2500 series. They have the suspension and the brakes to handle it. But a short trip every other month or so, its fine. The gears are not the best for towing either. The first thing that will go is the transmission.

 

[tgrfan2]

I have a fair amount of towing experience and I wouldn't worry about towing that rig at all. I wish I had had it back in the early 1970's towing goosenecks with a D150 383 3.23 with a 3 speed auto!
My brother in law had a similar 2016 truck and I pulled his much larger TT several times with it. Granted it was only on relatively flat terrain but as always I shifted it like a manual to keep the rpms up and it did great. That 8 speed is great with a gasser. He ended up getting a 2019 2500 diesel when he bought a fiver but that 1500 sure was a sweet ride.
Nothing pulls like a diesel though so if you are going 2500 and as most of us end up with larger trailers, the 2500 diesel is the best way to go IMO.

 

[Qcman]

The GVWR is always available on the trailer sticker. Worst case, you can sum up the cargo capacity and the dry weight to calculate GVWR. Trying to assume that you know how much cargo you'll carry is the #1 mistake most new RV'ers make.

Things add up extremely quickly. If you go by GVWR and size the truck/trailer appropriately it takes out all the guess work and estimations. If you never get to the number, then you're golden. There's no issue of worrying if you need to take out the air fryer to take the bigger coffee pot.

While I want to try to be safe I don’t want to eliminate the truck by using jacked up numbers to the point it says I can’t even though I possibly can. I mean if I can’t figure out how much I might carry what would make me smart enough to not overload the trailer past its GVWR?

But for argument sake what would I use for a loaded tongue weight on a GVWR of 7600 that I’m looking at currently?

 

[turkeybird56]

ALL of these threads invariably focus almost exclusively on what the tow vehicle is "Rated" for. What actually matters a lot more is braking and handling. When the trailer outweighs the tow vehicle, having the right trailer brakes, trailer brake system, proper tires on both, proper weight distribution, towing level and good sway control will matter a whole pot load more than whether you are 300 pounds over the theoretical max.

^^^ THIS ^^^

 

[nlambert182]

While I want to try to be safe I don’t want to eliminate the truck by using jacked up numbers to the point it says I can’t even though I possibly can. I mean if I can’t figure out how much I might carry what would make me smart enough to not overload the trailer past its GVWR?

But for argument sake what would I use for a loaded tongue weight on a GVWR of 7600 that I’m looking at currently?

So you have to decide up front whether you want the right answer, or the answer you want to hear. The right answer often times eliminates the truck if you don't have enough truck. I hate to tell you, but if you want to stay within all your numbers and keep the 1500, look for a smaller/lighter trailer. Unless you can create a full list of every item you plan to load up with its weight, you can't figure it out. This is why it's important to use GVWR. You don't have to know the exact number.



From 20 years experience towing heavy trailers, you will rarely (if ever) be under the numbers that you think you are right out of the gate. I've seen a lot of folks bite off too much up front and have a miserable tow experience and ultimately sell the trailer and get out of the hobby because it was too much work. If you size everything appropriately and leave some headroom, it's quite enjoyable.

7,600 x 15% = 1,140 lbs.
WDH = 70 lbs (estimated)
2 passengers @ 175 lbs ea = 350 lbs

Total = 1,560 lbs.

If you crank down the WDH, you can sometimes shift roughly 10-15% of the weight back onto the trailer axle. If you can do that, your tongue weight will drop back to 1,326 lbs. But you'll have to rely heavily on the WDH to always function. You wouldn't want to tow without it.


This is before you add anything else to the truck and assumes you'll keep the bed empty. This is about as real as it gets.

If your Ram has a Class IV hitch on it, it's maximum weight rating is 1,250 lbs.

 

[truck2569]

Hi thank you! Yes I plan to use a WDH for sure.

I used to haul campers for a living. What I saw most of the time with people pulling campers they always sagged at the back. is your truck heavy half? suppose? Air bags and an equal hitch with sway bar attachment if you decide to give in to the wife.
Air bags in the back to help control weight distribution, but you should put at least E rated tires on the back of the truck, when pulling the camper. try to pack the camper from the axles forward and weigh it after it is packed. But the biggest thing that people for get is the brakes on the truck it does most of the stopping the trailer brakes a represet for 50% when your rolling down a hill it will push you. drop a gear going down. My favorite logic was whatever gear you pulled the hill with drop it 2 from that going down the hill.
Your gears in your rearend will hamper you in the mountains. But on flat ground you would be fine.
I would say if there were only 2 of you traveling look for a 23 to 25' camper or a small 5th wheel. 25 or less the reason I say a 5th wheel you don't lose any space inside the camper and fit has a slide it just increases the inside living capacity. Good Luck.And they travel down the road nicer. Just saying.

 

[nlambert182]

^^^ THIS ^^^

If you stay within all of the numbers, braking and handling are already factored in.

 

[nlambert182]

I used to haul campers for a living. What I saw most of the time with people pulling campers they always sagged at the back. is your truck heavy half? suppose? Air bags and an equal hitch with sway bar attachment if you decide to give in to the wife.
Air bags in the back to help control weight distribution, but you should put at least E rated tires on the back of the truck, when pulling the camper. try to pack the camper from the axles forward and weigh it after it is packed. But the biggest thing that people for get is the brakes on the truck it does most of the stopping the trailer brakes a represet for 50% when your rolling down a hill it will push you. drop a gear going down. My favorite logic was whatever gear you pulled the hill with drop it 2 from that going down the hill.
Your gears in your rearend will hamper you in the mountains. But on flat ground you would be fine.
I would say if there were only 2 of you traveling look for a 23 to 25' camper or a small 5th wheel. 25 or less the reason I say a 5th wheel you don't lose any space inside the camper and fit has a slide it just increases the inside living capacity. Good Luck.And they travel down the road nicer. Just saying.

Bags do not help weight distribution. Bags only reduce sag. They do absolutely nothing for weight, because all of the weight still rides on the axle, whether you use bags or not.

And... there are almost no 5th wheels that a 1/2 ton can tow within the numbers.

 

[Qcman]

I have a fair amount of towing experience and I wouldn't worry about towing that rig at all. I wish I had had it back in the early 1970's towing goosenecks with a D150 383 3.23 with a 3 speed auto!
My brother in law had a similar 2016 truck and I pulled his much larger TT several times with it. Granted it was only on relatively flat terrain but as always I shifted it like a manual to keep the rpms up and it did great. That 8 speed is great with a gasser. He ended up getting a 2019 2500 diesel when he bought a fiver but that 1500 sure was a sweet ride.
Nothing pulls like a diesel though so if you are going 2500 and as most of us end up with larger trailers, the 2500 diesel is the best way to go IMO.

One thing I find a bit funny in all of this as you kind of note is about towing trailers back in the 70’s. My dad and uncle hauled trailers with his Torino and LTD sedan with 5 kids in the car and maybe a 180 hp v8. They’d have killed to have what I have now.

 

[Qcman]

So you have to decide up front whether you want the right answer, or the answer you want to hear. The right answer often times eliminates the truck if you don't have enough truck. I hate to tell you, but if you want to stay within all your numbers and keep the 1500, look for a smaller/lighter trailer. Unless you can create a full list of every item you plan to load up with its weight, you can't figure it out. This is why it's important to use GVWR. You don't have to know the exact number.



From 20 years experience towing heavy trailers, you will rarely (if ever) be under the numbers that you think you are right out of the gate. I've seen a lot of folks bite off too much up front and have a miserable tow experience and ultimately sell the trailer and get out of the hobby because it was too much work. If you size everything appropriately and leave some headroom, it's quite enjoyable.

7,600 x 15% = 1,140 lbs.
WDH = 70 lbs (estimated)
2 passengers @ 175 lbs ea = 350 lbs

Total = 1,560 lbs.

If you crank down the WDH, you can sometimes shift roughly 10-15% of the weight back onto the trailer axle. If you can do that, your tongue weight will drop back to 1,326 lbs. But you'll have to rely heavily on the WDH to always function. You wouldn't want to tow without it.


This is before you add anything else to the truck and assumes you'll keep the bed empty. This is about as real as it gets.

If your Ram has a Class IV hitch on it, it's maximum weight rating is 1,250 lbs.

I’m not trying to make it be the right or wrong answer. I get that you are using “safe” numbers. But I think they may be too safe perhaps . You have the hitch weight on a 600 lb tongue dry weight trailer increasing to 1140 if I were to go to the limit of 7600 lbs. That’s a 540 lb increase on the trailer hitch if I put the full 2000 lbs in the trailer. That’s a big increase for not much weight added to the trailer.

The truck doesn’t have a trailer hitch it seems the previous owner pulled it off oddly enough. So I need to buy whatever class hitch is needed of course. The trucks build list said it was built with a class III.

I have always said I would use a WDH at a minimum.

 

[truck2569]

Bags do not help weight distribution. Bags only reduce sag. They do absolutely nothing for weight, because all of the weight still rides on the axle, whether you use bags or not.

And... there are almost no 5th wheels that a 1/2 ton can tow within the numbers.

And I didn't say it would help the weight distribution did I I disagree my brother has a2020 ford 150 that pulls a 25' 5th wheel. and I pulled a ton of 5th wheels that are half ton towable. Keystone and forest river and Jayco all make 5th wheels that are half ton towable. But what do I know I have only pulled them for 5 years and about 100 campers a year from the factory.