Hemi ticking solution

[Chepe99]

I’m trying to fix the ticking sound on my ram 1500 but don’t know what’s the best route to take either aftermarket headers or oem manifold has anyone solved this problem on theirs ? If so what are the best brand’s yall recommend to fix this issue.

 

[Ken226]

I’m trying to fix the ticking sound on my ram 1500 but don’t know what’s the best route to take either aftermarket headers or oem manifold has anyone solved this problem on theirs ? If so what are the best brand’s yall recommend to fix this issue.

Does the tick go away when the engine warms up?

But, if your certain that it's the manifold bolts and not something else, then either way will work. If you go with headers, it will solve the problem.

If you want to stay with manifolds, don't buy new ones. Resurface the old ones on a belt sander and the problem will never return.



New OEM manifolds will just warp the same as the old ones, when they heat cycle enough times, and you'll be back where you are now.

But if you keep your current manifolds, resurface the mating surface on a belt sander and replace the bolts and gaskets, you'll never have this problem again. I've done it 4 times so far on different Rams & Durangos.

Spray a super light coat of krylon paint on the mating face, the stick it flat to the running belt sander platen, and keep working it until the paint is all gone.

 

[Chepe99]

Yes it goes away as soon as the truck warms up

 

[Ken226]

Yes it goes away as soon as the truck warms up

Belt sand them. I've never heard of it happening again on a belt sanded set of manifolds.

Yet.


https://youtu.be/rAJlNPgsDfk?si=FIA1Lix8QIcXgxKh

 

[EdGs]

Do you know if the exhaust manifold bolts are broken just under the head of the bolt, or flush with the cyinder head?

Reach in through the wheel well and grab the corners of the heat shields, and feel underneath the loose corner(s).

If you only feel the thickness of a nut, the bolt is broken at the thead of the bolt. Easy-peasy to remove.

If you feel the body of the bolt still attached to the shield, it's broken flush with the cylinder head. Weld-a-washer-and-nut is the best method to remove the broken stud.

I do not recommend drilling out the broken stud unless you have a drill template and are experienced using left-hand drills and extractors, it's way easy to ruin the threads or worse, drill into the water jacket.

As @Ken226 said, belt-sand or machine the manifolds flat, replace the gaskets and hardware (and no, you don't need fancy grade 8 bolts for the repair, they only torque to 18ft-lb or so), and you'll never have another issue.