How far would you feel comfortable traveling with this setup? (pictures)

[breal201999]

Yep, I figured you'd be in the 1300 payload range. Gotta subtract people, gear and tongue weight from your max payload and see where you are. I suspect you'll be close if not a little over. Lots of members here have lots of opinions on THAT topic, I'll leave it alone. If it were me, I'd load up for the trip and get to a CAT scale. You'll know instantly what you need to change.

And I live in a town with a truck stop with scales! How convenient! I'll get it weighed and come back for further discussion. Thanks!

 

[Firebird]

Proper tow vehicle set up is imperative!

 

[Murdock188]

I have a similar setup my camper is 24 ft not 28 but similar weight, think it's 4500 dry, weighed it at the dump full of water and camping gear it was 6250 so about 2knunder max tow rating. Have the equalizer wdh with sway control, I would tow mine anywhere very stable even in 40 mph winds I had very little sway. Just take it easy and it shouldn't be an issiue. As far as pulling long grades I haven't had any issiues doing so yet. Always use tow/haul and watch your tranny temps. And oil temp. Happy camping!

 

[dhay13]

That dually in that video was loaded wrong. Speed didn't help but that weight was too far forward and too high. Can't know for sure without seeing it scaled but the engineer in me says I see the back of the trailer tilt first so there is not enough weight over the axles. And with the Hummer being all the way up front it raises the center of gravity making it even more top heavy. He would have been fine either slowing down or having that weight further back over the axles in my opinion.

 

[392DevilDog]

Let us show you the numbers.

Payload of 1372. Your GVWR is 6900. This means your base weight is 5528.

Your GCWR is 13800. Your max tow...8272...yeah that is everything added to the truck. Cause 13800 minus 5528 is 8272. See...not even a driver allowance.

So do you see...your truck can not tow 8272 lbs.

So 5528...you say a family of 4. Lets just say 600.

5528 plus 600 is 6128...you have 772lbs left.

You said the UVW of the trailer was 4676 with a 568 TW. That is 12% TW....so at 7600 that would be 912. So lets say you got lucky and only packed it half way. So we will use 740.

You have 32 lbs left. But the hitch weighs about 100lbs.

So you are over.

Those are the numbers. Very interested to see what the scale says.

Good luck. Hope the scale says it will work.

If you pack light or take 2 vehicles...you got this.

 

[Tim7139]

The good news is if you can hit your legal weights the SAE J2807 test procedures used to set them indicate you have ample acceleration, braking, handling, and cooling to tackle the nations highways (including the 11.4-mile-long Davis Dam Grade it was tested on in 100 degree weather with the AC on high). There are pros and cons to sizing your tow vehicle beyond the minimum needed, with many discussions available on many forums to guide and entertain you (being popcorn, and don't swim after eating for an hour).

This video covers a few of the SAE J2807 tests using a RAM 3500 as the test bed -

 

[OC455]

He also said if I put E rated tires on that truck I would hate the ride of them

You do not need E rated tires to tow. First off, the tires that you have will be fine. Stock OEM Goodyears have a 114 load index rating and I have towed my trailer with them the first trip out. I upgraded my tires just because I didn't like the wet weather performance and purchased Nitto Terra Grappler G2's. 116 load index for the tire and they were XL rated. Same weight as the factory Goodyears. Changing to an E rated tire will add more rotational mass (heavier tire, not needed). It will eventually shorten the life of your brakes and wear your suspension if not the front wheel bearing eventually.

Your trailer is well within specs of the truck for towing. Just don't load up heavy.

That and an E rated tire will kill your gas mileage when not towing.

 

[breal201999]

You do not need E rated tires to tow. First off, the tires that you have will be fine. Stock OEM Goodyears have a 114 load index rating and I have towed my trailer with them the first trip out. I upgraded my tires just because I didn't like the wet weather performance and purchased Nitto Terra Grappler G2's. 116 load index for the tire and they were XL rated. Same weight as the factory Goodyears. Changing to an E rated tire will add more rotational mass (heavier tire, not needed). It will eventually shorten the life of your brakes and wear your suspension if not the front wheel bearing eventually.

Your trailer is well within specs of the truck for towing. Just don't load up heavy.

That and an E rated tire will kill your gas mileage when not towing.

So it sounds like ideally, I need a set of E rated to throw on when towing, and have the Yokos for the rest of the time. Might not be a bad idea when planning to go across country. Man that’s getting pricy!

 

[pacofortacos]

You do NOT need E load tires, there is also a P metric XL load range that is within a couple of hundred pounds capacity of E Load.
If you decide to use your current tires, increase the air pressure to within 2-3 psi of the max cold pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire. If 44 psi, I would not run less than 40 psi.

Do you still have the stock rear springs or have you upgraded those?

What you DO NEED is to check your spare tire - if it is the temp spare that 90% of them come with, you need to replace that tire. If you have a 17" spare, you can replace the tire with a E load 285/70/17 tire.
It will be almost the same size (diameter) as your stock 275/60/20 tires (a better match than the temp spare) and it will handle the load much safer than the temp spare until you can get to a place to repair/replace your damaged 20" tire. The 285/70/17 tire will be a bit too wide for the spare rim, but it will not be a problem as it is a spare and ideally only to be used as such for a short period, however it will be able to handle the load and let you continue on at normal speeds. (Handling will be slightly different between the 20's and the 17 - but nothing to really worry about).
You cannot run the stock temp spare when loaded.
OR buy a 20" spare wheel (rarer) and a new/used E or XL load tire - unless you find a 20" spare with a full size real tire on it.

Also, check the trailer tires to make sure they are not speed limited to 65 mph and have at least 1, preferably 2 spare tires for the trailer.

 

[OC455]

So it sounds like ideally, I need a set of E rated to throw on when towing, and have the Yokos for the rest of the time. Might not be a bad idea when planning to go across country. Man that’s getting pricy!

No, you do not need E rated for cross country towing. You'd be fine with the tires you have, probably just air them up a bit.

 

[breal201999]

You do NOT need E load tires, there is also a P metric XL load range that is within a couple of hundred pounds capacity of E Load.
If you decide to use your current tires, increase the air pressure to within 2-3 psi of the max cold pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire. If 44 psi, I would not run less than 40 psi.

Do you still have the stock rear springs or have you upgraded those?

What you DO NEED is to check your spare tire - if it is the temp spare that 90% of them come with, you need to replace that tire. If you have a 17" spare, you can replace the tire with a E load 285/70/17 tire.
It will be almost the same size (diameter) as your stock 275/60/20 tires (a better match than the temp spare) and it will handle the load much safer than the temp spare until you can get to a place to repair/replace your damaged 20" tire. The 285/70/17 tire will be a bit too wide for the spare rim, but it will not be a problem as it is a spare and ideally only to be used as such for a short period, however it will be able to handle the load and let you continue on at normal speeds. (Handling will be slightly different between the 20's and the 17 - but nothing to really worry about).
You cannot run the stock temp spare when loaded.

Also, check the trailer tires to make sure they are not speed limited to 65 mph and have at least 1, preferably 2 spare tires for the trailer.

Yes, I do still have the stock rear springs. I know I've read on other threads to upgrade the shocks to Bilsteins, but I haven't done that yet. And honestly, there's hardly any squat to the truck. I took a measurement before putting load on it (part of the instructions on that stabilizing bar), and measured after... and the rear only dropped 3/4 of an inch and the front maybe a quarter.

Good to know on the spare tire! Thanks!

 

[pacofortacos]

The stiffer springs also help with side to side rocking - however they do make for a bit harder ride when unloaded.
I have no complaints with my HD OEM stock shocks.

You could also upgrade the rear sway bar to help on side to side rocking instead of springs if you aren't squatting at all - neither option is expensive.

Other than that use tow/haul and maybe the ERS buttons to limit gear searching.
3.21 in 7th gear is = to 8th gear with 3.92's
Oh and change your rear gear oil before the trip, I use Redline and even then change the rear gear oil every 2-3 years - it's cheap and easy to do with the built in drain plug.

 

[breal201999]

The stiffer springs also help with side to side rocking - however they do make for a bit harder ride when unloaded.
I have no complaints with my HD OEM stock shocks.

You could also upgrade the rear sway bar to help on side to side rocking instead of springs if you aren't squatting at all - neither option is expensive.

Other than that use tow/haul and maybe the ERS buttons to limit gear searching.
3.21 in 7th gear is = to 8th gear with 3.92's
Oh and change your rear gear oil before the trip, I use Redline and even then change the rear gear oil every 2-3 years - it's cheap and easy to do with the built in drain plug.

All good information. I need to search up how to do the rear gear oil change. As said, it's a 2016 and I have yet to do that. But I have never used it as a "truck" before, and only has 65K miles on it. But I will put that on my to-do list.

 

[pacofortacos]

Well, it's identical to my 2016.
If you crawl under from the rear bumper, on the pass side bottom of the differential, you will see a large allen plug and on the rear cover a rubber plug.
Remove the rubber plug and then remove the allen plug (I think maybe brass?) and let it drain. When done draining, put the allen plug in and fill using the hole in the rear cover - fill until it is just ready to come out of the hole.
OR
Have it done at the dealer at least this time to preserve the warranty. I also have lifetime, so I did my last one at the dealer so they have a record of it being changed - at 44k miles - since I am bad at keeping receipts .
I do all of the other times myself I change it every 10-15k miles.
If you do it yourself, just keep the receipts for the oil and date.

I really need to put a log book in the truck and start keeping records. I do much more maintenance than required but have no way to show that - doesn't help buying filters and oil in bulk.

 

[Digger Dan 188]

Breal20199,

All of the above is good solid advice!

However from an OTR Trucker who has trucked in mountians all over the country and seen a bunches of RV issues in them not just limited to travel trailers but large motorhomes. Going down is harder than going up.

When going down hill chose a target speed you are comfortable with for your rig. Then DO NOT excced this speed. Use the gearing, not the brakes, in your vehicle to control your downhill speed. If you gearing alone is not controling your speed by itself, 5-10 MPH before your get to your target speed get on your brakes firmly. Not hard enough to go into a skid but firmly enough to slow your rig down quickly to about 25-30 MPH below your target speed. Don't try to slow down by just dragging the brakes. That just builds up heat in the brake systems in both the tow vehicle and RV. I don't care what brake system you have- drum, disc, elec/hyd, or air brakes etc they don't like heat. TOO MUCH HEAT = BRAKE FAILURE.

The 3 million mile man I learned from taught me- Get on the brakes firmly- get slowed down as quick as possible- get off the brakes!! Once off the brakes they start to cool down minimizing the heat build up. This takes some practice but after a few downhills you'll become comfortable doing it.

Additionally if your going to go on a trip to include not just mountians but hilly country you need to study your route. Know before you leave what hills/mountians you will/may encounter on your trip. Learn what a 6% grade is vs a 3% grade (a 6% grade falls 6 ft in every 100 ft of horizontal distance A 3% grade falls 3 ft every 100 ft etc.) So if there is a 12% grade it is very steep. Steep short is better than steep long!! Also figure in curves/switchbacks. (Go look at the map of US 550 in Colorado between Silverton and Quray- long grades & sharp 180 deg curves big time!!) There are maps on the internet that detail the grades on the highways. http://maps.srfox.net is just one. There are others too.

When you come upon a 45 ft 1.9+ million dollar motorhome and it's toad halfway up a run away vehicle ramp due to burned out brakes it has a tendency to make one ponder!

I'm not trying to intimidate or discourage hilly/mountian RVing. Some of the most beautiful scenery the Good Lord every made have I seen the mountains. Just trying to keep you, your family, and your rig safe!!

Happy RVing!!

 

[Tim7139]

So it sounds like ideally, I need a set of E rated to throw on when towing, and have the Yokos for the rest of the time. Might not be a bad idea when planning to go across country. Man that’s getting pricy!

The trucks tow rating was achieved with the stock tires. Several of the SAE J2807 test procedures ensure the stock tire grip and handling characteristics meet the needs of the tow rating assigned.

Moving from P to LT tires is a popular recommendation people who are towing will hear however it is one I do not agree with for half-ton pickups. As with all tire choices, the choice of an LT tire has pros and cons.

I advise against most half-ton owners making the switch to LT tires as LT tires typically have less responsive handling, and p-metric tires typically have superior wet and dry traction on paved highways. https://www.tires-easy.com/blog/p-metric-tires/

For 1500 owners looking for tires with higher weight capacity than stock there are several p-metric tire load index level increments with higher load ratings than stock available before stepping up to p-metric XL rated tires or LT tire.

 

[breal201999]

Breal20199,

All of the above is good solid advice!

However from an OTR Trucker who has trucked in mountians all over the country and seen a bunches of RV issues in them not just limited to travel trailers but large motorhomes. Going down is harder than going up.

When going down hill chose a target speed you are comfortable with for your rig. Then DO NOT excced this speed. Use the gearing, not the brakes, in your vehicle to control your downhill speed. If you gearing alone is not controling your speed by itself, 5-10 MPH before your get to your target speed get on your brakes firmly. Not hard enough to go into a skid but firmly enough to slow your rig down quickly to about 25-30 MPH below your target speed. Don't try to slow down by just dragging the brakes. That just builds up heat in the brake systems in both the tow vehicle and RV. I don't care what brake system you have- drum, disc, elec/hyd, or air brakes etc they don't like heat. TOO MUCH HEAT = BRAKE FAILURE.

The 3 million mile man I learned from taught me- Get on the brakes firmly- get slowed down as quick as possible- get off the brakes!! Once off the brakes they start to cool down minimizing the heat build up. This takes some practice but after a few downhills you'll become comfortable doing it.

Additionally if your going to go on a trip to include not just mountians but hilly country you need to study your route. Know before you leave what hills/mountians you will/may encounter on your trip. Learn what a 6% grade is vs a 3% grade (a 6% grade falls 6 ft in every 100 ft of horizontal distance A 3% grade falls 3 ft every 100 ft etc.) So if there is a 12% grade it is very steep. Steep short is better than steep long!! Also figure in curves/switchbacks. (Go look at the map of US 550 in Colorado between Silverton and Quray- long grades & sharp 180 deg curves big time!!) There are maps on the internet that detail the grades on the highways. http://maps.srfox.net is just one. There are others too.

When you come upon a 45 ft 1.9+ million dollar motorhome and it's toad halfway up a run away vehicle ramp due to burned out brakes it has a tendency to make one ponder!

I'm not trying to intimidate or discourage hilly/mountian RVing. Some of the most beautiful scenery the Good Lord every made have I seen the mountains. Just trying to keep you, your family, and your rig safe!!

Happy RVing!!

Very true on downhill harder than uphill and heat on the brakes! I was having to manually downshift to save my brakes when I found i didn't have any on the trailer! Wasn't a good way to start on hopefully a new style of travel. See my other thread here on the issue. https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2016-trailer-hook-up-electrical-problems.167350/
Good advice! Thanks

 

[GsRAM]

Is your truck an 8 speed? If so I think what you have is doable, but I don't know that I'd go cross country with it.

You will be close to or over payload rating, but I wouldn't be overly concerned about that..you need to stay under your GRAWR. Find that number on your drivers door sticker, get your rig weighed and see what your loaded GRAWR is with wdh engaged.

I had a 2015 Silverado 1500 and it was a good truck for what it was, but loaded heavy for a weeks camping trip i was overloaded and I knew it. So I went 2500 and I'd never go back to a half ton truck, but that's personal preference. I towed heavy with a half ton for many years and did so safely with good tires (load range E) and a properly adjusted wdh.

You are maxed out, know that going in and take your time, especially if your truck is a 6speed. That 30 footer is no landscaping trailer, as you said. Good luck.

 

[ramffml]

From the picture in post 1, it appears that the bars are not 100% level with the trailer tongue. This is crucial to get right with that hitch, because the friction of the bars moving on the brackets is what provides your sway control. If the bars are angled up or down even slightly, then only the edge of the bracket provides friction (say about 1/4 inch). When the bars are perfectly flat, the entire bracket (3? 4? inches) provides sway control. I would take time to dial that in perfectly or you may wind up with brown shorts one windy day.

 

[breal201999]

From the picture in post 1, it appears that the bars are not 100% level with the trailer tongue. This is crucial to get right with that hitch, because the friction of the bars moving on the brackets is what provides your sway control. If the bars are angled up or down even slightly, then only the edge of the bracket provides friction (say about 1/4 inch). When the bars are perfectly flat, the entire bracket (3? 4? inches) provides sway control. I would take time to dial that in perfectly or you may wind up with brown shorts one windy day.

Could it be that the trailer is on a slight incline toward the house on the concrete pad? How do you make it perfectly level? I know I had to take measurements on how much load it puts on the front and rear suspension, and from what I could tell it was within the recommended drop. Do you put a long level on the underside of the frame of the trailer? I'm not 100% certain I have a true 100% level ground on my property. Or does Camping World (or general RV places have an inspection point to verify the setup is correct)?
Thanks