How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

[Lawsuit11]

Anyone have extra Door handle Connectors and pins I can buy off of them. I’ve got a few RFQ and they are crazy expensive.

Any help would be appreciated.


—2018 Ram 1500—

 

[78Staff]

Anyone have extra Door handle Connectors and pins I can buy off of them. I’ve got a few RFQ and they are crazy expensive.

Any help would be appreciated.


—2018 Ram 1500—

I will also need the door handle connectors/pins so if you wind up with a group buy type deal count me in.

 

[Lawsuit11]

I will also need the door handle connectors/pins so if you wind up with a group buy type deal count me in.

If I can get a few people to commit to buying I would buy 26 connectors and the pins. And let everyone know pricing. That way no surprises.


—2018 Ram 1500—

 

[Ricks Ram]

Anyone have extra Door handle Connectors and pins I can buy off of them. I’ve got a few RFQ and they are crazy expensive.

Any help would be appreciated.


—2018 Ram 1500—

To the best of my knowledge no one has used the factory connector yet. They are to expensive and were also hard to find. We ended up cutting the connector off and soldering and heat shrinking the wires on the five trucks we have done. It's not the (Factory) setup but it's a permanent connection and works fine. Your other option is to cut the connector and replace it with a different connector. I struggled with it at first because I like my harnesses as close to the factory setup as possible and I'm kinda OCD but in some cases it just doesn't make sense. I thought it would bother me but I'm fine with it now that it's done. It's extremely unlikely I will ever need to replace the handles or disconnect the wiring and if I do I will just cut it off and solder on a new one. If it was something that was more visible like a seat harness ect I can see going to more extremes to make it as factory looking as possible. I guess now that more people are installing the push to start a group buy would start to make more sense if it's something that bothers you to the point of not wanting to install the handles without it.

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[Lawsuit11]

To the best of my knowledge no one has used the factory connector yet. They are to expensive and were also hard to find. We ended up cutting the connector off and soldering and heat shrinking the wires on the five trucks we have done. It's not the (Factory) setup but it's a permanent connection and works fine. Your other option is to cut the connector and replace it with a different connector. I struggled with it at first because I like my harnesses as close to the factory setup as possible and I'm kinda OCD but in some cases it just doesn't make sense. I thought it would bother me but I'm fine with it now that it's done. It's extremely unlikely I will ever need to replace the handles or disconnect the wiring and if I do I will just cut it off and solder on a new one. If it was something that was more visible like a seat harness ect I can see going to more extremes to make it as factory looking as possible. I guess now that more people are installing the push to start a group buy would start to make more sense if it's something that bothers you to the point of not wanting to install the handles without it.

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I purchased the mouser connectors “alternative connectors” that Jimmy put in the installation post. That way it’s still a “connector”. I’ve been debating on doing it just cut and call it a day. But I like OEM. But then again like you said. It can’t be seen so it probably wouldn’t bother me lol


—2018 Ram 1500—

 

[78Staff]

yeah soldering was my original plan as well, but figured if a GB was occurring might as well get in on it .

I have this link bookmarked for the door handle connectors, says 450 in stock so I emailed them for a quote.

http://inventory.smdinc.com/search/inventorysearch.php?search_string=7283-6079-30#

 

[Ricks Ram]

I purchased the mouser connectors “alternative connectors” that Jimmy put in the installation post. That way it’s still a “connector”. I’ve been debating on doing it just cut and call it a day. But I like OEM. But then again like you said. It can’t be seen so it probably wouldn’t bother me lol


—2018 Ram 1500—

Lol trust me it bothered me too at first but it's something you can't see unless you tear the whole door apart which I will never do. I soldered mine because if done correctly it's a connection I will never have to worry about or remove. Had it been anything visible or that I thought I would possibly ever need to disconnect I would have pinned a different connector.

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[Lawsuit11]

Lol trust me it bothered me too at first but it's something you can't see unless you tear the whole door apart which I will never do. I soldered mine because if done correctly it's a connection I will never have to worry about or remove. Had it been anything visible or that I thought I would possibly ever need to disconnect I would have pinned a different connector.

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Lol. Yeah I will never tear that damn door apart ever again once I install the handles. I already had it most of the way just running the wires and installing the antennas.

FYI. I had a problem with fob safe not working when I only had 2 antennas installed. Also wouldn’t read the fob all the time to start the truck. Once I installed the door antennas everything is working good. I can even have the fob in between my rfid pad(in my wallet) and my phone and my truck still starts without a problem. Thinking the door antennas helped locate the fob better cause it’s detected on all sides and not just front and back.


—2018 Ram 1500—

 

[Remen]

Thanks for the great write up jimmy07. Finished installation and testing after programming with AlfaOBD revealed that the left door handle did not function. I verified wiring to the hub and antennae was correct and ended up at the green front door connector. I only had one terminal slot open in the grey connector which I used for the mirror running light mod thus used the green connector for the door handle terminals.
I discovered the available terminal positions on the cab side were not the same as the door side and had pinned the signal wire incorrectly. Moved the wires to terminal positions 11/12, still no function. Last place to check was the door handle connection behind the panel. I found when I placed a box just the height reaching the bottom of the door that I didn’t have to remove the complete harness. I unstrapped the front of the harness and removed the screws to the flexible boot which allowed rotation of the inner panel up and forward. I then used a bolt to hold the panel upright sitting on the box I had placed under the door.
Well my temporary connection to the door handle connector had failed. I am still looking for door handle connectors for a permanent solution so I fixed the issue and tested the handle successfully.
I’m enjoying not having to insert the key to start but mostly the passive entry.
I can confirm that the connector terminals are not the same in the green connector as stated in previous posts. The bigger terminals are Yazaki 7114/7116-4112-02 male/female. Thanks STecoD for providing the terminals to complete this install.

 

[Lawsuit11]

Thanks to @MaxSteel2013. I have the factory connectors and Pins for the door handles. I’m planning on installing them here in a few. Here is a few pictures of the factory connectors and how to take them apart because there is a water proof plug in this connector.

Front side


Back side(where the wire goes into the connector)


Where the red line is. Is where you stick a flat head screw driver in on both sides to pop off the cover to show the plug. The red circle is the pin lock. Once the pins are inserted slide it to the center to lock the pins into place.



Back side view after the cover is taken off showing the plug


Plug is really easy to get out



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[Lawsuit11]

I think I have a problem with my handle and the connector. Whenever I walk up to the truck without touching the handle the door unlocks with the key in my pocket. I’m going to assume this means that somehow the pins are to close together and they are constantly making a connection so the key coming within range automatically unlocks it cause it’s making the full signal loop with the signal


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[chrisbh17]

I think I have a problem with my handle and the connector. Whenever I walk up to the truck without touching the handle the door unlocks with the key in my pocket. I’m going to assume this means that somehow the pins are to close together and they are constantly making a connection so the key coming within range automatically unlocks it cause it’s making the full signal loop with the signal


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Sounds like that. You can connect to the rf hub and might be able to see the status of the signal, I can't remember exactly what is available

There is also a door handle verification test you can run.

If they are shorting out I would look for "whiskers" of copper strands that might be hanging out of the crimped pin connections.

Also verify correct pin locations but Im not sure a reversed set would cause this issue.

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[MaxSteel2013]

I think I have a problem with my handle and the connector. Whenever I walk up to the truck without touching the handle the door unlocks with the key in my pocket. I’m going to assume this means that somehow the pins are to close together and they are constantly making a connection so the key coming within range automatically unlocks it cause it’s making the full signal loop with the signal


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That's the proximity feature. It should do that.

 

[chrisbh17]

That's the proximity feature. It should do that.

No, it shouldn't unlock until you put your hand behind the door handle.

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[MaxSteel2013]

No, it shouldn't unlock until you put your hand behind the door handle.

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Pretty sure that's not right. Unless there was a sensor directly attached to the handle you couldn't do that.

This is how our Durango works too with it factory installed.

 

[MaxSteel2013]

I think I have a problem with my handle and the connector. Whenever I walk up to the truck without touching the handle the door unlocks with the key in my pocket. I’m going to assume this means that somehow the pins are to close together and they are constantly making a connection so the key coming within range automatically unlocks it cause it’s making the full signal loop with the signal


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I wonder if we could turn that feature off with my AutoEnginuity tool...

 

[Ricks Ram]

I wonder if we could turn that feature off with my AutoEnginuity tool...

You can turn the proximity handles off in the settings menu on the radio. I personally wouldn't use the AE tool for any BCM changes now that we have the alpha tool. The AE tool has caused corruption issues in several BCM's in the past including mine. I have had to have my truck flashed by the dealer twice in the past to fix it.

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[MaxSteel2013]

You can turn the proximity handles off in the settings menu on the radio. I personally wouldn't use the AE tool for any BCM changes now that we have the alpha tool. The AE tool has caused corruption issues in several BCM's in the past including mine. I have had to have my truck flashed by the dealer twice in the past to fix it.

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Yikes. What were you trying to do when it locked it up?

 

[Ricks Ram]

Yikes. What were you trying to do when it locked it up?

The first time I enabled the Single Zone ATC code and it erased my vehicle brand and there was no way to put it back. This happened to several people. The second time I enabled my VTA and my HomeLink stopped working and some other issues and once again there was no settings to restore the BCM. This also happened to STecoD when he enabled his VTA with the AE tool. Several people had several issues with the tool and have had to have their trucks flashed for variety of issues caused by the tool. The problem is it will change codes on it's own and it's difficult to figure out what it did. The thing that makes it worse is if you're lucky enough to figure it out you can't change it back.

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[MaxSteel2013]

The first time I enabled the Single Zone ATC code and it erased my vehicle brand and there was no way to put it back. This happened to several people. The second time I enabled my VTA and my HomeLink stopped working and some other issues and once again there was no settings to restore the BCM. This also happened to STecoD when he enabled his VTA with the AE tool. Several people had several issues with the tool and have had to have their trucks flashed for variety of issues caused by the tool. The problem is it will change codes on it's own and it's difficult to figure out what it did. The thing that makes it worse is if your lucky enough to figure it out you can't change it back.

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Damn. Well I'm glad you posted on here. I've only used it to enable LEDs, Remote Start, and passive entry. It still paid itself off, but I likely won't use it again now.