ICON Stage 2 + Delta Joint UCA installed

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bruiserRAM

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As promised here is my Icon install thread. I'll be posting about the process of buying, installing and driving this kit. I'll answer questions best I can too. I'm no mechanic nor gearhead, but I am learning tons and am addicted to research and details. Hope it helps someone!

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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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I was originally in the market for a simple easy way to get rid of the Daystar 2.5 spacer that was installed on the truck from the dealer (Dave Smith in Idaho). I wanted about 2.5" of lift in front for clearance issues over rocks and to help with the bad approach angle with the sport bumper.

I was looking at Bilstein 5100 first. Then I considered other companies like Rancho that may be more off roady. Then I decided on the Bilstein 6112 as the best for the buck solution. While doing all my research, I was always drooling over Icons and Kings and Fox...but dismissing them as way to expensive.

I was also shopping for UCA's to compliment. I did not want uniball due to noise, longevity and maintenance drawbacks. I kinda settled on the Zone UCAs largely from reviews here, but was considering upgrading to the tubular BDS ones. I still like those!

In a twist of fate, when I sat down to actually buy the Bils 6112...they were ALL out of stock EVERYwhere.

Luckily for me, it was Black Friday week. I did not want to get anything less than the 6112..so I started looking at Fox and Icon. So expensive...but maybe I could swing it? SoCalSuperTrucks and SDHQ had the best deals...that is until I spoke to nick@gotexhaust here on the forum. HOLY ****. I had a 6 page DM conversation with Nick and he answered all my questions and beat or matched every black friday deal and then some. He went above and beyond in helping me, answering questions and providing amazing deals. THANKS!

In the end, I bought the Icon Stage 2 (2.5" coilovers, 2.0" aluminum rear shocks and 1.5" progressive coils) and the Delta Joint UCAs (all from nick)....at the end of November...

Fast forward to January 17 (!!!!!!) and I FINALLY got my Stage 2! The UCAs were delivered the next day.

Apparently the long wait was due to a huge order volume for Icon from Black Friday (they were offering 20% off on their site and other online retailers) also, they predominately stock Toyota parts, but build to order most other brands due to much less demand.

Regardless...I got my stuff and was happy.

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Nick@GotExhaust

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It was a pleasure working with you to get you a setup that not only would work for your type of driving but also fit your budget. We wanted to make sure we got you the most for your money, and would give you not only a great ride on road but off road as well. I think we hit the nail on the head here. This set up will give you great on road feel and will really perform off road. This setup will embarrass any 2.0 level kit shocks on and off road. We are proud to be a part of your build and look forward to hearing your feedback on this setup and working with you in the future.

We also look forward to seeing more of your awesome pics on Instagram!
 

MidwestExpress

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Awesome Victor, congrats. A couple questions for you, if you don't mind:

- How's the ride feel - softer than before? Handling improved?

- Whats the ICON maintenance/rebuild schedule? They don't have a recommendation timeline on their website that I can find. I assume it's between 30-50k, depending on usage, like some others? The main thing steering me away from higher end 2.5 COs, aside from the $$, is the rebuild schedule & process - it just seems like such a hassle for a DD truck.
 

ram1500rsm

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Nice choice Victor, get the Icon boots to protect your rear shock shafts from pitting, the truck will now ask for speed and your front tires will throw a lot of chit that your rear shock shafts were not getting before while on the trail :).
If you're worried abot mud/snow being trapped within the boot, then you can do something like this, i think i paid like $5 at Lowes

45806665254_800ac0373c_h.jpgUntitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

31590135077_ff37fd1e7e_h.jpgUntitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

This is basically vinyl stair tread (yellow sticker in pic), just cut it to what you need and hold with a hose clamp. Works like a charm. the zip tie at the bottom won't hold so don't bother hahaha, the material is strong enough to keep the form, and the clamp will hold the thing in place,
46534405001_ca1ba01888_h.jpg2018-12-30_05-42-30 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
 
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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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Awesome Victor, congrats. A couple questions for you, if you don't mind:

- How's the ride feel - softer than before? Handling improved?

- Whats the ICON maintenance/rebuild schedule? They don't have a recommendation timeline on their website that I can find. I assume it's between 30-50k, depending on usage, like some others? The main thing steering me away from higher end 2.5 COs, aside from the $$, is the rebuild schedule & process - it just seems like such a hassle for a DD truck.


- Ride feel is better for sure. I was skeptical that I'd even notice it on all but the harshest terrain, but just driving out of my dirt driveway with potholes it was very noticeable...especially the front end. It feels much more dampened on the larger stuff especially. When you hit a dip and head down into it, the truck will dive like before, but feels supported and solid as it descends, stopping the compression a bit sooner than stock. When you come out of the dip, the truck raises like before, but immediately comes back to level with little rebound and just...stops moving. Pretty cool and confidence inspiring. Nasty steep demon speed bumps are better too...even though some say icons are firm/stiff/harsh because of Digressive valving. They feel firmer in that they are more dampened, but there is no jarring hit or slamming when you hit a lump at low speed. All that said, I haven't really noticed a big difference in the rear yet. Only driven it empty. I have not taken it on rocky trails at slow speed yet either. All in all, I've been able to add about 5-10mph on some dirt runs with the ride feeling even better than before even with the added speed.

- Handling is hard to say. Seems firmer in corners and more solid. Haven't rallied it on road, but I did drive some winding mountain roads at about 35mph. Steering seems maybe softer at first? Then tightens up at about 1/8 of a wheel turn? It's a truck with a slight lift and still feels like a truck with a slight lift.


More on ride later.

See pic below for maintenance schedule for coilovers and rear shocks. Per ICON cust service, they are conservative in their recommendations, from tire/backspace fitment to service intervals. They said I could prob add 10,000 or more to these numbers unless I drive like a real redneck:


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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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Prior to install, I gathered things I would need.

If you ever intend to replace your rear shocks on a 1500...especially if you plan to remove them for rebuilds or maintenance GET THESE:

1500_shk_nut_kit.jpg

Here is a link:

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/products/09-18-1500-shock-nut-set.html

Holy cow. Made the rear install such a breeze. And since they come with a welded on nut, you can replace the OEM nut and use them forever, even easier. Cool.
 
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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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Now...A word about grease:

Icon UCAs come with low profile needle grease fittings in their Delta Joints and four 90 degree 1/4 - 28 steel zerks for the bushings. They also provide regular, straight zerk fittings for the Delta. I chose to use the regular ones.

The bushing zerks need to be oriented to face outward in order to service them with a grease gun while on the vehicle. Unfortunately, they seemed a little too loose in that position. Well, not loose, but not as tight as I'd like. In fact, I tried to turn one an additional 360 degrees to fully seat it. I ended up damaging it slightly, and had to wrap it in white plumbers tape to make it snug in the correct orientation. This worked great.

I contacted Icon and told them about my blunder and they sent me 4 new zerk fittings for free. No questions asked. Good custy service!

I will later replace all the fittings with new ones wrapped in plumbers tape. I suggest doing the same so they're snug from the get go.


TYPES OF GREASE:

On Toyota forums, there are a few lively discussions about the type of grease needed for the bushings VS the Delta Joints. The bushings are Polyurethane. The Delta is steel on steel. ICON told me to use any Lithium based grease with a Moly (molybdenum disulfide) additive, for the Delta. They also said I could use the same grease in the bushings. However, that contradicts what I read on many Toyota forum threads...

I ended up using Valvoline Full Synthetic grease (formerly called Synpower) in the Delta Joint. It is a Lithium Complex grease with Moly, and dark grey/black in color. Many people use Sta Lube Moly-Graph, however, there is nothing in print that says it actually has moly in it. Their site says is has "Lithium 12 Hydroxy Protection of moly and graphite." Protection of moly? I wasn't convinced there was Moly in it...and the Valvoline had better specs anyway. The Icon rep told me he uses the Valvoline on his Delta, so I was sold. The Delta does come pre-greased with black grease but the Icon rep recommended I grease it again upon install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I researched Polyurethane friendly grease for the bushings and many said Superlube with PTFE was the way to go. In fact, Total Chaos recommends and sells Superlube for their polyurethane bushings on their UCAs. I bought a second grease gun and some Superlube for the bushings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042FG74W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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So....the install. (TORQUE SPECS AT END)

Went well! Took about 6.5 hours, all told.

Did the front first.
-Remove wheel
-Remove brake caliper (21mm). Secure it up with a strap or bungee etc.
-Remove the tie rod end from spindle (21mm)
-Remove sway bar link from the sway bar. (well, just take the nut/bushings off) (16mm). Take a picture of the bushing and washer so you remember how they go back on.
-Remove the nut from below the ball joint (21mm)
-Beat spindle with rubberized sledge. Terrifying. Your ball joint will release from spindle. Be brave.
-Remove top 3 coilover assembly bolts (??mm)
-Remove lower shock mount bolt from spindle (21mm)
-Remove coilover assembly. Two person job. Lots of pushing and pulling. Don't cut your finger.
-Remove UCA from frame, two bolts, (18mm)

The Icon coilovers are labeled driver and passenger. They don't seem to line up at first and the lower mount seems too thin to fit over the spindle. It isn't , but it's a damn tight fit and really really helps to have two people to work on this. We used a jack under the spindle to help. We used a giant flathead screwdriver to help line up the lower bolt hole. We used flashlights and phone cameras to line up the upper mount holes...this is the hardest part. The driver's side was a better fit and went quicker.

Reverse everything when assembling. Helps a LOT to have a crescent wrench or two and small sockets to hold counter rotation on the ball joint taper pin, the tie rod end the sway bar link so they don't turn as you tighten.

DO NOT TORQUE THE UCA TO FRAME BOLTS UNTIL VEHICLE IS ON THE GROUND. This prevents damage to the soft polyurethane bushings. Also, we put the vehicle's weight on the ball joint to help the taper pin go all the way in before final torque.

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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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Now to the rear. (TORQUE SPECS AT END)

- Jack up at rear diff.
- Remove wheels.
- Remover fender liners. The hardest part about the rear was taking them out. WTF. It's insane. Just do it. It makes the job WAY easier. I wouldn't do it in the freezing cold because I bet they'd break! Take out all the little screws. Push liner in. Start at the front lower corner and work it all the way up and around the fender well. Ugh.
- Remove the sway bar link from the sway bar (18mm)---OR---Remove the sway bar link from the frame. I did the link to bar, but will probably remove from the frame in the future. The link to bar was hard to torque.
- Remove track bar from axle (left side) (21mm)
- Remove shocks (21mm) BUY THE THUREN SHOCK WRENCHES I LINKED ABOVE! If not, you gotta cut a wrench, or buy a stubby one, etc.
- Lower the axle slowly to release springs. Careful of the brakes. You don't need to take off the caliper, but you can if you want. I prob will next time.
- Insert springs. They are longer and require pressing down on one side to fit them in. Don't forget to take the rubber isolator washer from the stock coils and put it on your new Icons!
- Find a grinder or electric sander and get freaky with the upper shock mounts. You may have to take off a significant amount of metal to fit the Icon shocks. ******* stupid, if you ask me. The distance from the bolt hole to the shock body on the Icon rears is pretty short, and most RAMS have too long of a mount tab that needs to be trimmed. Had to trim mine about 1/8-1/4"
- Spray with chassis/roll bar paint of your choice (I used VHT spray can)

Put back together.

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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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TORQUE SPECS:

Disclaimer: There are conflicting specs out there. These are the ones I used! I got some from a very popular list on the forums (it's pinned in the lifted forum), some from videos, some from thread posts, etc. I tried to do lots of research and find the correct ones. If anyone has different specs, please post them!


FRONT:
Upper coilover mount: 35 ft lbs, per ICON
Lower shock mount: 111 ft lbs (some say 155, the list says 100. I went with 111. haha)
UCA taper pin to spindle: 75 ft lbs per ICON
UCA to frame: 120 ft lbs
Tie rod end to spindle: 55 ft lbs (some say 45. 55 seemed like a lot.)
Sway bar link to sway bar: 21 ft lbs (some say 16, the list says 27, and I've also seen 45!)
Sway bar link to spindle: 75 ft lbs (I did not disconnect this)
Front brake caliper main bolts: 130 ft lbs
Wheel lugs: 130 ft lbs

REAR:
Shock upper bolt: 100 ft lbs
Shock lower bolt: 100 ft lbs
Sway bar link to sway bar: 75 ft lbs
Sway bar link to frame: 55 ft lbs (I did not disconnect this)
Track bar to axle: 120 ft lbs
Rear brake caliper main bolts: 120 ft lbs (less than front...I did not disconnect this)
Wheel lugs: 130 ft lbs
 
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bruiserRAM

bruiserRAM

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What size tires you running?

RAM Rebel take-offs: Toyo Open Country ATII 285/70/17. Gonna upgrade an inch when they wear out.


FYI, I'm happy to take any more pictures of anything that anyone wants to see up close or better, if I'm able. I didn't take the greatest install pics because, well, I was trying to install a suspension!
 

hodge-xj

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285 75s ftw!!!

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