ICON Stage 2 + Delta Joint UCA installed

[hodge-xj]

Same here, 285/75/17
More expensive, but think about the cost over years of use. They’re worth it to me.

They really aren't terrible. 225-235 for the few I'm considering. Plus these newer tires are 55-60k rated, I'll take the better manners on road and mpg over a bit of cool factor. Over the life of the tire a few mpgs better may even offset tire costs.

Got any recent pics?

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[bruiserRAM]

285-75-17 will likely be my next tire...squeak up an inch in diameter, w/o loosing any width. A good compromise for a daily driver in my opinion.

 

[bruiserRAM]

So I noticed a potential problem in my rear coil springs...

They looked bowed out to the rear of the truck. Pics below are with the wheel off and the diff. slightly compressed with the jack just enough to remove the tires. I can just barely fit my fingers in between the upper portion of the spring and the rear side of the frame mount housing.

I got nervous they weren't compressing straight and I was maybe at risk of bending the springs over time running them like this?

Driver:


Passenger:


I reached out to a few forum members via DM who have these rear coils. They were very helpful and offered advice.

I also reached out to ICON and sent them the same pictures. Their response:

"The springs look normal and should not cause you any issue in the long run. If you’d like to eliminate some of the bowing I would recommend rotating the springs slightly. Some orientations are more favorable and can lessen the bowing you are experiencing."

I ended up disconnecting the track bar and sway bar again and lowering the rear axle. I rotated and wiggled the springs around until I got them in what seemed to be the best orientation and put everything back together. I think I improved it some, but they are still bowed to the rear. Oh Well? I want to get new rubber washers for the top of the coils to see if that helps...but can't find a part number anywhere? They aren't on Rock Auto...

***Anyone know the PN for the rear coil top rubber isolator washer???***

Pics of after wiggle fest:

Driver:


Passenger:


I'm gonna TRY and not worry about it....

 

[bruiserRAM]

Here are pics of the upper portion with my tires on, best I could. Also shows how close the upper coils are at rest with an empty bed on a Quad Cab.

Driver:



Passenger:


And, as @ram1500rsm noted, one coil is slightly longer, by about 1/16". We initially put that one on the Driver's side by accident, and I put it back that way because of my weight and gass tank on that side. However, even with a full tank, the driver's rear usually sits slightly higher than passenger. Maybe I'll swap them one day...

 

[bruiserRAM]

And, after about 80 miles and an alignment, this is how she sat:





I have been having trouble getting consistent measurements for the rake and fenders...I'm working on a post about that as we speak. For now, here are the numbers:

*On 285/70/17 tires (32.8" diameter per Toyo)


BEFORE:

Front: 38 1/2"
Rear: 38 3/4"

Rake: 1/4"

Front Droop travel: 3 3/4" - 4.00"

~~~~~~

CURRENTLY (APPROXIMATE)

FD: 39 - "
FP: 39 + "

RD: 40 1/4 + "
RP: 40 1/8 - "

D Rake: 1 1/4" to 1 1/2"
P Rake: 3/4" to 1 1/8"

Front Droop Travel: 3 1/2"

~~~~

*Icon recommends 2" of droop travel minimum.
**Icon list maximum space between top hat and coil adjuster nut at 1.5". Mine is set at 1".


Bonus:

 

[hodge-xj]

They naturally bow a little. Don't fret over it too much. They look oriented well. Mine have a funky hoopty to them too. I've forgotten about it till you mentioned it. Maybe try getting the upper parts of the coils wrapped with something?

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[ram1500rsm]

Yeah that won't damage the springs, is simply cosmetics. This is a fairly common issues with Jeeps after lifts with longer springs. in the Jeep world we have several fixes for it, first one is free, and it's orientation, like i mention in one of my PM's, i have my springs facing towards the front of the truck
coil_orientation by RAM RSM, on Flickr

It won't fix it completely, but sometimes it'll make the bow a little bit better.
the other option is to have spring correction wedges, that will make them more straight, this are the ones i had in my Jeep JKU, they go at the bottom of the springs just like a spacer, but because they're angled up you wedged them underneath to countertact the bow. For minor bowing like yours it'll work fne the problem is that you'll get an extra 1/2" of lift, Hodge i think you're using JK spacers ? if so, this ones will maintain the 1/2" lift and correct much off the bow
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rock-krawler-rear-coil-spring-correction-wedges-0717-jk.html?utm_content=XT Handling - Springs|Rock Krawler&T5_Var4=J111418&intl=0&utm_campaign=XTW+Wrangler+Parts+Medium&dialogtech=ppc&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&T5_Var3=orange&gclid=CjwKCAiAnsnjBRB6EiwATkM1XgmetJjLGdOo8syRqrdACBURLKDY9y6DLNfxF4dO-1WL-nE3vpzDdxoChE4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Also depending if your rear diff angle is slighty positive, you can extend your lower control arms a tiny bit say 1/4" or so and that will also help (of course you need longer LCA's or adjustable)

Like those cheap wedges there is a plethora of coil spring correction options in the JK world, the best solution when the bowing is wild is simply to cut the bottom rear springs perches and reweld them at the correct angle.

Your bowing is minor and i wouldn't worry about one bit, besides you have the quad cab so you're getting an extra 1/2" more out of those springs, imagine if they were straight you'll have to add another 1" or so to the front which will put put your CV's/front diff at a bad angle.

 

[ram1500rsm]

If it makes you feel better this is the Dirt King long long travel rear setup, they use similar springs to Icon, they also have their end of the springs pointing to the front of the truck, and their springs are also bowing a tad
Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr


Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

 

[ram1500rsm]

My Icons have a little bow too, but again that's nothing to worry about
rear Driver with full weight
2019-02-18_03-28-09 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Passenger
2019-02-18_03-28-29 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

 

[bruiserRAM]

Thanks fellas. Yea, I saw that Dirt King setup on your build thread and saved that picture and have looked at it a zillion times.

When I fiddled with them, I ended up with the passenger with the coil end cetered perfectly forward at 12:00 on the clock, and the driver at about 1:00 or so, that seemed about the best spot.

I'm just gonna drive it and not worry for now...although I'd still like to find some new OEM top rubber coil washers....

Driver (left of pic is to the front):


Passenger (right of pic is to the front):

 

[JB1]

I think the spring isolator is p/n 52855789AB but verify it first

 

[78Staff]

Glad you got it sorted out Bruiser - nice install thread. I hope to get mine installed in the next week or two, still healing from cracked ribs so haven't wanted to do anything that required effort lol. I didn't even think about removing the fender liners though... one more item to add to the list.

Icons and Hellwig rear swaybar/link kit still sitting in the box in my foyer

 

[bruiserRAM]

I think the spring isolator is p/n 52855789AB but verify it first

I think you're right, sir! Ordered some from Rock Auto. I'll verify for sure when I get them. Some online Mopar parts vendors had them listed, but shown in a diagram as for the front coils. Rock Auto and a couple others had them described as for the "rear upper" with not much else. We shall see...

 

[bruiserRAM]

LIFT HEIGHT:

So...I've driven over 1000 miles since install (and had 1 alignment). Lots of local dirt roading, daily driving, some out of town errands, and an overnight trip to Death Valley with about 300# in bed.

Finally got around to doing some hardcore scientific measuring. Ha. Wont go into it, but I got an average of about 1/2 dozen measurements at each wheel, while parked on the flattest spots I could find in my rural ass town. Still going from ground to fender, just because, but also measuring top of tire to fender.

Tires: 285/70/17 (32.8" Toyos)


BEFORE:
Front: 38.5 (Daystar 2.5" spacers)
Rear: 38.75 (Stock)


CURRENT (ground to fender and tire top to fender):
FD:
39 1/8+
7 3/4-

FP:
39 1/8
7 3/4

RD:
40 1/8+
8 3/4+

RP:
40 1/8
8 11/16


RAKE (ground to fender):
Driver: 1"
Pass: 1"

RAKE (tire to fender):
Driver: 1+"
Pass: 15/16"


CHANGE:
Front: 5/8 higher
Rear: 1 3/8 higher


I also loaded up my bed incrementally with Olympic lifting bumper plates and dumbbells and things, and measured the sag:


(That's 1000#!)

SQUAT:

@ 200#: - 3/8
@ 400#: - 3/4
@ 600#: - 1 1/8
@ 800#: - 1 1/2
@ 1000#: - 1 3/4

Every 200# added was about 3/8" of squat, up to 800# Then 1/4" from 800 - 1000#

I drove about 10 miles through town and on a 55mph highway to the airport, loaded with 1000# It handled GREAT actually. Wow. Pretty planted, speed dips at intersections hardly felt different. The most noticeable thing actually was acceleration change...not even suspension related.

Here are pics of the truck loaded with 1000#:






As we know, the Icon coilovers are adjustable. I was hoping for about 1 - 1.5" of rake. I'm right at 1" right now. I'm tempted to turn the adjuster nut one turn, and lower the front about 1/8"...but I also don't really wanna mess with it. I'd also have to get another alignment.

Should I keep as is...or lower the front to introduce another 1/8" of rake?

-As is, with about 500# in the bed, it will be level.

-I commonly load the bed up with camping/adventure gear, etc, (rarely, if ever, over 500#). When we do we're usually driving a ways out of town.

-A couple times a year I move heavy stuff, like wood, and am pushing my payload for sure. I will be squatting no matter what.

-I bomb around on dirt, empty/light more often than I drive under load. Nice to have max up-travel for that. That said, I do want the safest and most practical stance for all around use no matter what.

-I don't have a trailer or use it to tow...yet. I also don't intend to get bigger tires for another year or 2 at least.

-I'm well aware I'm overthinking it...

 

[ram1500rsm]

LIFT HEIGHT:

So...I've driven over 1000 miles since install (and had 1 alignment). Lots of local dirt roading, daily driving, some out of town errands, and an overnight trip to Death Valley with about 300# in bed.

Finally got around to doing some hardcore scientific measuring. Ha. Wont go into it, but I got an average of about 1/2 dozen measurements at each wheel, while parked on the flattest spots I could find in my rural ass town. Still going from ground to fender, just because, but also measuring top of tire to fender.

Tires: 285/70/17 (32.8" Toyos)


BEFORE:
Front: 38.5 (Daystar 2.5" spacers)
Rear: 38.75 (Stock)


CURRENT (ground to fender and tire top to fender):
FD: 39 1/8+
7 3/4-

FP: 39 1/8
7 3/4

RD: 40 1/8+
8 3/4+

RP: 40 1/8
8 11/16


RAKE (ground to fender):
Driver: 1"
Pass: 1"

RAKE (tire to fender):
Driver: 1+"
Pass: 15/16"


CHANGE:
Front: 5/8 higher
Rear: 1 3/8 higher


I also loaded up my bed incrementally with Olympic lifting bumper plates and dumbbells and things, and measured the sag:

View attachment 156963
(That's 1000#!)

SQUAT:

@ 200: - 3/8
@ 400: - 3/4
@ 600: - 1 1/8
@ 800: - 1 1/2
@ 1000: - 1 3/4

Every 200# added was about 3/8" of squat, up to 800# Then 1/4" from 800 - 1000#

I drove about 10 miles through town and on a 55mph highway to the airport, loaded with 1000# It handled GREAT actually. Wow. Pretty planted, speed dips at intersections hardly felt different. The most noticeable thing actually was acceleration change...not even suspension related.

Here are pics of the truck loaded with 1000#:

View attachment 156968

View attachment 156969


As we know, the Icon coilovers are adjustable. I was hoping for about 1 - 1.5" of rake. I'm right at 1" right now. I'm tempted to turn the adjuster nut one turn, and lower the front about 1/8"...but I also don't really wanna mess with it. I'd also have to get another alignment (right?)...and it's about $150 around here.

Should I keep as is...or lower the front to introduce another 1/8" of rake?

-As is, with about 500# in the bed, it will be level. Any more and it starts to tip nose high (my bodyweight lowers the front about 1/8")

-I commonly load the bed up with camping/adventure gear, etc, but this rarely (if ever) goes over 500#. When we do we're usually driving a ways out of town, into the mountains/desert or out of state, etc.

-A couple times a year I move heavy stuff, like wood, and am pushing my payload for sure. I will be squatting no matter what.

-I bomb on dirt, empty/light more often than I drive under load. Nice to have max up-travel for that. That said, I do want the safest and most practical stance for all around use no matter what.

-I don't have a trailer or use it to tow...yet (a ways off). I also don't intend to get bigger tires for another year or 2 at least.

-I'm well aware I'm overthinking it...

Thanks a lot for all the measurements very nice to know these values, and glad to know the setup is working out for you.
I load up my bed with about 400-500lbs of gear, plus wife in front 3 kids and dog in the rear seat and the truck sits about level. I wouldn't sweat the front height for now with 1000 miles those struts are still brand new. If you had those 1000lbs in th back permanently then it'll make sense to lower the front a little and make her level. The springs should continue to settle a tad more over time so i'll say don't worry about it for now and enjoy the ride.

 

[hodge-xj]

Take it off and send it to me. It's crap. You won't be happy with it

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[bruiserRAM]

Take it off and send it to me. It's crap. You won't be happy with it

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You'll have to at least buy me dinner first before I take it all off for you, Hodge.

 

[novelmike]

Am I the only one that’s not crazy about how the Delta UCA’s mount to the spindle?

 

[hodge-xj]

You'll have to at least buy me dinner first before I take it all off for you, Hodge.

I'll even buy dessert for that deal [emoji6]

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[yousef]

so how is the icons so far ?

an planing to replace my bils 5100's with the icon all four corners and my wish is to have a smoother ride at the highways and dirty roads