IHC 3/5

[flhxi]

Has anyone used the IHC 3/5 4x4 regular cab kit?

 

[Cardsin2005]

Yup. Ride is great. Looks killer. Fits stock tire size. Upper control arms allow for camber adjustments.


I did lower it another 2 inches in the front and rear and got much shorter tires.

 

[Noob2Trucks]

Yup. Ride is great. Looks killer. Fits stock tire size. Upper control arms allow for camber adjustments.


I did lower it another 2 inches in the front and rear and got much shorter tires.

What size tire? I have the same kit (but 2wd) and it's weird, but my front is lower and rubs on left turns. I think the tire size might help.

 

[Cardsin2005]

What size tire? I have the same kit (but 2wd) and it's weird, but my front is lower and rubs on left turns. I think the tire size might help.

You rub with a 3/5 drop? That IS weird. When I was running the 3/5 I had the stock 275/60R20 size and had zero rub. Does it rub in the back or front? I did get an adjustable rear sway bar to re-center my rear end because the pass side tire would just kiss the lip of my bedside. The pic below is the truck with the stock tire size and the 3/5 drop. I have since dropped the front 2 inches with the Belltech kit for 4x4 trucks and cut another 2 inches off the rear springs. I am now running 245/45R20s. I think the sidewall is a little too short. Next set of tires is going to be a little taller.

 

[Noob2Trucks]

Yep, it's weird. The culprit is the front driver's side, when you get close to lock it rubs and the front seems soft. I still have the stock springs and shocks in the front though. I also couldn't use the isolators they sent because the width between coils was about the same size as the isolator. it just slide right between the coils, no way it was staying in there. I plan on bringing down the sidewall though, I'm hoping this helps. I did add a swaybar at the rear at the same time along with the Core 4x4 stuff (panhard, control arms) so I didn't have an issue there. I did have a problem with the rear bottoming out. I added the shocks they sent with the kit yesterday, so I'll see how they do. I'm planning on going viking all around though.

That first tire looks like what I was looking for. Did you like that tire? What were they?

 

[Cardsin2005]

The front will be lower then a 3 inch drop without the isolator. "with Ride quality being the #1 goal. We achieved that by lowering the front end with custom control arms. You achieve the 4” with the lower control arm. We add 1″ spring isolater to set at 3″ (this is a quote from the IHC website. I believe the isolators are supposed to sit in the spring pocket of the new lower control arm with the spring sitting on top of them. I have a 4WD so my front end kit does not use isolators.

Stock springs and shocks are used to keep the ride quality. The stiffness should be exactly the same as it was before the drop. The IHC rear shocks should keep you from bottoming out. The new ones are shorter and the kit moves the lower attachment point for the shock.

The tires I was running on the 3/5 kit were Cooper Discoverer H/T Plus in the stock size 275/60R20. I loved these tire. Much softer then the stock Goodyears. Ride was better road noise was better. Grip was better. Looked more sporty then most truck tires in this size. I only went with different brand for my new tires because Cooper did not have a tire in the size I needed.

 

[amerimanyo]

I just lowered my 2022 Single Cab with a 3/5 kit from IHC. I love the look but, I wish I could lower it another inch or two.

 

[amerimanyo]

Yup. Ride is great. Looks killer. Fits stock tire size. Upper control arms allow for camber adjustments.
View attachment 482817

I did lower it another 2 inches in the front and rear and got much shorter tires.

how did you get it two inches lower? I put in the 3/5 kit but I would like it lower still.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Take out the lower front spring isolator and the 1 inch rubber spacer on the top of the spring. Leave the top spring isolater that molds to the upper spring coil, that should drop it 2 more inches in the front.

For the rear, take out the rear springs, sit them on the ground measure a 1 or 2 inch additional drop and Cut the coil with a grinder, not a torch or plasma cutter. 1 inch is a little over 1/2 a coil, 2 inches is a full coil or more.

Most people cut the right coil more than the left to account for the gas tank weight

Be aware, the lower you go, the more problems you get. Check drive shaft clearance for potential rubbing. You will need to change tire size as the front will rub the inner fenders.

Here is mine at 4 in front, 5 in back. You cannot see much difference in the rear, but can see the difference in the front. I'm 285/45/22 in the front and on my 2nd set of inner fender liners.

 

[amerimanyo]

Has anyone used the IHC 3/5 4x4 regular cab kit?

I just installed it in mine last month.

 

[loud392hemi]

Do you scrape on driveways or huge dips? Been thinking about pulling the trigger on a 3/5 kit

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

On 3/5 you may occasionally find a dip that causes a rub, going to a 31 or 30 inch tire will fix a lot of issues.

Stock tire size is 32 inches or more

 

[konfidential]

On 3/5 you may occasionally find a dip that causes a rub, going to a 31 or 30 inch tire will fix a lot of issues.

Stock tire size is 32 inches or more

Facts…I’m definitely going to a 30 inch tire once these nittos wear down

 

[1SloRam]

Yep, it's weird. The culprit is the front driver's side, when you get close to lock it rubs and the front seems soft. I still have the stock springs and shocks in the front though. I also couldn't use the isolators they sent because the width between coils was about the same size as the isolator. it just slide right between the coils, no way it was staying in there. I plan on bringing down the sidewall though, I'm hoping this helps. I did add a swaybar at the rear at the same time along with the Core 4x4 stuff (panhard, control arms) so I didn't have an issue there. I did have a problem with the rear bottoming out. I added the shocks they sent with the kit yesterday, so I'll see how they do. I'm planning on going viking all around though.

That first tire looks like what I was looking for. Did you like that tire? What were they?

How did the IHC rear shocks work out?
I bought my kit secondhand, didn’t come with shocks. Wondering if they’re worth it or what may work instead.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I'm running bilstein 5125s, they require some eyelet modifications but over 15k miles no concerns. I'm 4 /5.

 

[Cardsin2005]

how did you get it two inches lower? I put in the 3/5 kit but I would like it lower still.

Sorry, this is an old post, but I did the 3/5 IHR kit than I pulled the front CV axels out and installed the Beltech 2in lowering shock for (the 4x4 rams) in the front and cut another 2 inches out of the IHR rear springs. You cannot go past a 3in drop in the front without pulling the CV axels out or they will bind and get damaged. I never use the 4 wheel drive so it didn't bother me a bit.

 

[Cardsin2005]

How did the IHC rear shocks work out?
I bought my kit secondhand, didn’t come with shocks. Wondering if they’re worth it or what may work instead.

IHC shocks are fine. Maybe a bit stiff but that keeps you from bottoming out.

 

[Cardsin2005]

Do you scrape on driveways or huge dips? Been thinking about pulling the trigger on a 3/5 kit

I did not scrape on my steep drive or dips with the 3/5 and stock 275/65/20s. My 5/7 drop is another story. The crossmember in the front hangs really low on these trucks and that scrapes sometimes on my drive. But my tires are also a little too small. So a taller sidewall would help with that.

 

[Wild one]

Sorry, this is an old post, but I did the 3/5 IHR kit than I pulled the front CV axels out and installed the Beltech 2in lowering shock for (the 4x4 rams) in the front and cut another 2 inches out of the IHR rear springs. You cannot go past a 3in drop in the front without pulling the CV axels out or they will bind and get damaged. I never use the 4 wheel drive so it didn't bother me a bit.

You can also remove the front diff and driveshaft to,if you haven't,makes working under the engine alot nicer.Either unbolt the front actuator off the diff and leave it plugged in and out of the way,or remove it and use AlphaOBD to kill the light.Saves roughly another 80 lbs off the front of the truck.

 

[Cardsin2005]

You can also remove the front diff and driveshaft to,if you haven't,makes working under the engine alot nicer.Either unbolt the front actuator off the diff and leave it plugged in and out of the way,or remove it and use AlphaOBD to kill the light.Saves roughly another 80 lbs off the front of the truck.

I didn't think about removing it in AlfaOBD. Do you know what codes have to be modified? I have been planing to remove diff at some point.