Is there a "certified air suspension technician"?

[steven_sbs]

I have a 2017 RAM 1500 Sport with air suspension. I got the error message "service air suspension immediately" this morning. The truck is sitting as low as it will go. I called my local RAM service, they told me their "certified air suspension technician" quit two weeks ago and they have not replaced him yet. Told me to call a specific dealer a few towns away. I called the second dealer, they told me they didn't have a certified tech either and didn't know why the first dealer would send me to them. I called a third service department and they said there is no such thing as a certified air suspension tech, any of their guys would be willing to try and fix my truck.

So the question: Is there such thing as a certified air ride suspension technician? Or did the first two places just not want to work on my truck and were blowing me off? Is this something any tech can work on and fix correctly the first time?

 

[TexasDrone]

That’s not good. We’re you hauling something too heavy?


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[Jimmy07]

So the question: Is there such thing as a certified air ride suspension technician? Or did the first two places just not want to work on my truck and were blowing me off? Is this something any tech can work on and fix correctly the first time?

I guess it’s possible, probably because the system needs to be filled with pure nitrogen?

 

[steven_sbs]

That’s not good. We’re you hauling something too heavy?


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Not hauling anything. Just got in it this morning and the message popped up. Drove it around town doing normal errands the past few days. I don't know what happened. Truck won't go up or down, just sitting as low as it can with the suspension lights thinking the truck is in normal ride height.

 

[TexasDrone]

Does every little bump feel like you have no suspension? If so it sounds like a bag has failed.


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[Hawkman]

I have never heard of a Certified Air Suspension Tech. I have a 17 Rebel with the air suspension, every now and then when I let it sit for a week or so, I notice the left side is a little lower than the right. But as soon as I fire it up, it levels itself.

I have heard rumors and seen post from others who have had their suspension fail and the shops are keeping their trucks for weeks trying to figure out the issue. More than likely your dealer has already been through that scenario and don’t want to do it again. Either way that is BS they lied to you and I wouldn’t give them my business any more.

Let us know what the outcome of your issue is.

 

[ram1500rsm]

One of the reasons i would never ever in a million years own another vehicle fitted with air suspension garbage. It's plain and simple garbage. I do hope you still have warranty left. if you didn't, you'll have to wait for the diagnosis which apparently takes NASA engineers to validate, then comes the suprises on the cost of compressors, hose fittings,shocks asnd misc parts. I had a Jeep GC with that system. You can fit Kings shocks with the money they want to fix their crap when it goes bad
I wish you the best of luck cause i've been there and paid the price.

 

[TexasDrone]

I just bought an extended warranty to cover everything for 8 years or 125,000 miles so glad I won’t have to worry about it now.


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[TRad]

Check the 40A fuse that runs the system first. If its really cold out they can freeze up and blow fuse.

 

[Stevieboy96]

I have heard of the valves in the system going bad.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Here's one thing I'll say. Having worked on Cadillac, Lincoln and (assisting with) Land Rover air suspensions on vehicles I've owned; they're not that difficult to troubleshoot (at least the older systems). BUT they take time and a tech with a high degree of troubleshooting skills and determination -- unless there's a known common problem that's in FCAs service database. That's entirely possible. But the way the industry PAYs mechanics works against the mechanic pouring through the manual and figuring it all out.

But if you find the right guy it shouldn't be that difficult. The root causes are usually something fairly minor, a failed valve (as mentioned above), a leaky air line, or small part, sensor, etc that can throw a wrench in the system. What I hope you don't run into is a tech who is a parts-replacer. and wants to replace the PCM right off the bat. The home mechanic willing to do some digging and armed with a scanner and the OEM service manual can generally get to the 'root' issues and make a much cheaper repair. You might first make a physical inspection. Quite frequently the problems are simple things like a broken or failed 'level sensor' or corroded connectors, failed fuse, etc. First check the level sensor at the wheels b/c on other vehicles I've worked on they often seize up and break or flake out. They're made out of plastic.

But in leu of that, you might need to find a tech at a dealer who has done it a few times who can troubleshoot it efficiently. Otherwise, these kind of things can be a fishing trip.

 

[Tach_tech]

If your vehicle is under warranty the tech working on the vehicle has to have the proper training level from Chrysler in order to get paid for the job. They have to do online and classroom training in order to perform certain repairs/diag.

If the dealer doesn’t have a tech that has the proper training from Chrysler then the dealer is not allowed to perform the job under warranty. FCA will deny the claim and the dealer will get stuck with the bill.

So it’s possible their tech that had the training quit and nobody else has it.

Some dealers only send techs to training that’s applicable to their category. So they won’t send a transmission tech to suspension training. Others like my dealer send every tech to everything.

This only applies for warranty repairs though. If it’s not covered then it doesn’t matter who does it.

As to your issue though. The air mass is likely low in the tank due to the colder temperatures. Once it gets cold the systems start to act up, they will accidentally vent some of the nitrogen, then the system is low, overworks the compressor and either blows a fuse or the compressor itself. That’s the most common issue I see. You could also have a leak, most common is the rear bags.

 

[FCAEMPLOYEE]

Verify system is filled with Nitrogen, Check the 40amp main fuse, Verify with a squirt bottle there are no leaks in the system connections, while its in a warm shop or garage try to cycle the suspension. These would be the first 3 things i would try. If you can, find someone close to you with the Alpah app and an OBD2 connector

 

[steven_sbs]

Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and suggestions so far. You people are great. Since it's the day before Thanksgiving, I'm waiting until Monday to call the dealer to schedule service and arrange for a tow. I have another car I can drive in the meantime, so not an emergency. I'll check the fuse this afternoon and see what I find. Updates to follow. Happy Thanksgiving to you all.

 

[corneileous]

Since it’s a 17, it could be victim of that older, outdated lube they were using on the valve block in the compressor. Supposedly, they started using a different lube that kept a lot of its thinner viscosity and wouldn’t turn into something as thick as roofing cement or peanut butter when the temp dropped. Is this the first time it’s done it? How cold was it? From what I heard, it has to get down to or below zero for this to happen.

But in combination to what others have said, unfortunately there is a purge valve on these systems. I can’t remember what it is that has to happen to cause it to do it but whenever it happens, it actually does purge out some of your nitrogen with no way to replace it on its own.

Do you still have warranty on your truck?

I got lifetime warranty on my 18 Limited purely because of this air system. It’s a great system and all, I love the hell out of it for what all it’s capable of and the ride I get out of it but just like with anything like this, it’s a highly complex system that when it decides to act up, it’s not gonna be easy and it’s not gonna be cheap to fix. Hope you get it resolved.


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[steven_sbs]

Check the 40A fuse that runs the system first. If its really cold out they can freeze up and blow fuse.

Quite frequently the problems are simple things like a broken or failed 'level sensor' or corroded connectors, failed fuse, etc.

Check the 40amp main fuse

Ding ding ding, we have a winner. I checked the 40 amp fuse. Blown. Fuse F05 40 amp green.

Question 1: Why did the fuse blow? After I replace the fuse, I'll see how long a new one lasts. If new one blows right away, that should tell a tech where to start troubleshooting. If it lasts for a long time, life is good.

Question 2: Before I go poking at the fuse with a big pair of pliers, is there a trick or something I should know ahead of time before I pull the fuse? Little clips or squeezy things I should look out for? I'm not a mechanic and have never had to remove one of these fuses. I hate breaking things, so I ask dumb questions upfront.

Thanks again.

 

[Tach_tech]

Just pull the fuse out and put a new one in. Just do it with the key off.

As I said a few posts up.

Once it gets cold the systems start to act up, they will accidentally vent some of the nitrogen, then the system is low, overworks the compressor and either blows a fuse or the compressor itself. This is by far the most common issue I come across on the air suspension trucks. Air suspension trucks that park in a heated garage overnight during the winter seem to be the worst for this. The big temperature changes cause moisture build up in the system.

If your lucky it’s just low and getting the air mass topped up will fix the issue. If not you may need a compressor. There is an updated compressor/valve block that has new seals that’s supposed to help prevent that issue but it still happens.

 

[TRad]

Good To hear.. I had a 2016 that worked great the first winter then had one service warning the second winter. The third winter was the killer. Blown fuse suspension drop like you had. Dealer here replaced the pump with newer pump and said they had luck with adding brake line deicer into the system to handle the moisture and cold issues they had been seeing in my area.

Never had a problem after that but ended up turning in my lease because of the issue and not buying the truck.

I would still take it in and have them check it out.

Good Luck..

 

[corneileous]

Just pull the fuse out and put a new one in. Just do it with the key off.

As I said a few posts up.

Once it gets cold the systems start to act up, they will accidentally vent some of the nitrogen, then the system is low, overworks the compressor and either blows a fuse or the compressor itself. This is by far the most common issue I come across on the air suspension trucks. Air suspension trucks that park in a heated garage overnight during the winter seem to be the worst for this. The big temperature changes cause moisture build up in the system.

If your lucky it’s just low and getting the air mass topped up will fix the issue. If not you may need a compressor. There is an updated compressor/valve block that has new seals that’s supposed to help prevent that issue but it still happens.

That’s good to know and actually makes sense about the garage-kept trucks. Granted, it doesn’t get down to single digits down here in southern Oklahoma too often but I’m kinda glad the girlfriend doesn’t share her narrow garage with me. lol.


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[madtrucker2016]

Yeah but hes busy now with the Macy,s Thanksgiving day parade