Leaking ball flange tips?

[local]

I installed JBA shortys last week and have now had to tear back into it three times to try and fix a leak on the drivers side ball flange. I have searched and done both the copper rtv and jacking up the exhaust onto the flange before tightening it. This last time I thought it was resolved but started leaking again after a couple miles.

Took it by an exhaust shop today and they just wanted to sell me something saying that the header flange is the wrong size for the exhaust connection and that is of course stupid for a drop in replacement style header.

So I am asking if anyone knows of any other thing I can try to get the leak plugged?

 

[averageguy]

If its a ball and socket type deal like the stock exhaust tips, after the initial tightening, try tapping around the female side with a hammer then tighten some more. Sometimes it will go on a little more or conform to the shape of the male end better.

 

[local]

If its a ball and socket type deal like the stock exhaust tips, after the initial tightening, try tapping around the female side with a hammer then tighten some more. Sometimes it will go on a little more or conform to the shape of the male end better.

Yeah it's pretty similar to that, thanks.

 

[ilovemyramlaremie]

Wile the exhaust is still hot, put a small piece 2x4 against the Y pipe closer to the flange, and give a couple of good hammer shots on the 2x4. It should help conform to it, then try to re tight the bolts

 

[local]

Wile the exhaust is still hot, put a small piece 2x4 against the Y pipe closer to the flange, and give a couple of good hammer shots on the 2x4. It should help conform to it, then try to re tight the bolts

Ha, this reminded me that one of those crazy old car guys told me that trick almost 20 years ago. Will try.

 

[averageguy]

Ha, this reminded me that one of those crazy old car guys told me that trick almost 20 years ago. Will try.

Crazy old car guys learn a lot by trial and error over the years. Sometimes they can tell you how TO do something, sometimes they can tell you how NOT to do it!

 

[local]

Update: Confirmed the leak was on the drivers side flange. Took the Y pipe down, cleaned all traces of copper RTV off both surfaces on both sides, scrubbed surfaces until both were flat with steel wool and reassembled. My concern was creating a leak on the passenger side but that held just fine. However the leak on the drivers side was just as bad. When reassembling I spun the flange 180° and sure enough the bad leak was on the opposite side now. No amount of wacking or tightening stopped the leak but it is much better than before.

My analysis: I believe the free floating flange is warped. There are no leaks on the bolt ends but in the middle on both sides it leaks as if the flange is not making good contact there. The main leak moving to the opposite side when that flange is spun around supports this. Next time I tear it down I will be making a jig to try and put a slight bend in the flange so that the center part has more pressure on the connection. I will update again once that is done.

 

[averageguy]

Thanks for the update. Hopefully you can seal it up and tell us how you did it. So many threads never have the resolution to the issue.

 

[local]

I will, so annoying when you have a problem and find a thread with the same thing going on then it just stops.

 

[local]

More update: Since 1/5 I have been either too sick or it has been too cold for me to feel like trying to permanently fix this leak. Over the last couple weeks the leak had again gotten louder so on 1/22 I tightened the bolts again using a breaker bar. It took a good half turn on both to get the leak to be silent, still leaks I just cannot hear it, both bolts had to be broken loose to get tighter so I don't think they are backing out but it is possible.

Still zero issues on the passenger side and no leaks on the headers themselves thankfully. I am hoping by now that those bolts are seized in there and will not be a problem in the future.

 

[averageguy]

Well, at least your 1/2 way there.

 

[local]

Well, at least your 1/2 way there.

True but that also means I have made zero progress. This one leak is the only problem I have had with the whole install.

 

[Ratket]

Could always weld it.

 

[local]

Could always weld it.

Yeah but then I would have to deal with that in the case I need to remove the headers, but it is an option.

 

[Ratket]

Yes it is a permanent option, just depends on what ur gonna do with the truck.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Could use a v-flange......you have to weld flanges in existing exhaust an add clamp.
https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-St...Wma0x31sp2FM4mJ7ydePwKAJx1QDMZLwaAhAwEALw_wcB

Maybe try to make your own gasket around flange.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/php-68070

Or exhaust cement.
https://tabersproducts.com/product/flo-ex/

 

[local]

Again I tightened the drivers side last weekend. Removed the last original bolt and put a new one with a lock washer on. I also spun the flange around again. I really don't think I can put much more force on tightening the bolts without moving to 1/2" drive extensions and sockets. End result, did not find any leaks after reinstallation but after this week of driving the leaks have returned.

I am about ready to give in and take the truck to a exhaust shop and have them fix the damn leak. Giving in and letting someone else do it would be a first for me though so I am going to give it one more shot this weekend. Expect a new update where I fail miserably and break something in the next couple days.

 

[averageguy]

Are these bolts threaded into anything, or are they just through the flanges? My point being if they don't thread into anything you could tighten them until they stop leaking or break whichever comes first. Have back up grade 8 bolts on hand. If you are thinking of going up to 1/2 I assume you're using 3/8 drive? A 3/8 drive ratchet with out a cheater may not give you the force it takes to torque those down. Extensions and swivels also reduce the amount of force going to the bolt/nut.

 

[local]

Are these bolts threaded into anything, or are they just through the flanges? My point being if they don't thread into anything you could tighten them until they stop leaking or break whichever comes first. Have back up grade 8 bolts on hand. If you are thinking of going up to 1/2 I assume you're using 3/8 drive? A 3/8 drive ratchet with out a cheater may not give you the force it takes to torque those down. Extensions and swivels also reduce the amount of force going to the bolt/nut.

Through bolts which is why I'm not too scared to break them. I've been using my 2' breaker bar to tighten them, it's 1/2" but the socket and extension are 3/8". I'm pretty sure I was close to breaking something last time as the extension was visibly twisting out of shape.

 

[averageguy]

That must be a bad ass bolt if the breaker bar twisted before the bolt broke.