P219A code 5.7

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hunterdan

hunterdan

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Quick test watching stft, at idle it was pulling pretty steady negative numbers. I disconnected the vacuum hose and plugged it from the evap valve and the numbers almost immediately went positive and started to stabilize around zero after a few minutes. Connected back to the valve and they immediately went negative.
I've also had some times when hot starting the truck that it would crank weird, almost like it would fire up too quickly. Now all the symptoms are adding up and starting to make sense.
 
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hunterdan

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So apparently I'm still fighting this code. When I changed out the purge valve, I disconnected the battery for a while and the ltft were reset to zero. Over time, they've gradually shifted back to negative values. The truck is constantly trying to pull fuel. At idle, in park or neutral, the LTFT shifts to about -10 on both banks. In gear, about half that. I don't understand why the massive difference other than the difference in load on the engine. While driving, they are still negative, but never more than -5%. I have a battery load tester coming in, so I'm going to check that. I still have the old oxygen sensors. I'm half tempted to at least swap one side to see if it makes a difference. HOWEVER, as I said, on hot starts I do notice that it acts up from time to time, as in it just doesn't crank up the same. Like it starts to fire up too fast or something. So, that leads me to believe the issue isn't actually sensor related. I'm actually starting to wonder if I've got injectors that are bleeding down and leaking. This seems to make sense why the fuel trims are so negative at idle speeds, but seem to even out at higher rpms. I don't want to drop $400+ on new injectors as a guess, but on a stock tune (truck was never tuned), LTFT constantly trying to correct for over-enrichment, it's pointing in that direction. If I were dealing with a leaking manifold, it'd be trying to add fuel, not take it away. Same with a leak at the exhaust manifold or collector. It'd be trying to add fuel, not take it away.

How can I monitor fuel pressure after turning the key off? When using my obd2 scanner, it stops reading as soon as I turn the key to the accessory or off position.

I've added some high doses of techron and redline fuel additive to the fuel tank on less than half a tank in the hopes that maybe there's dirt or something inside some injectors and that stuff would work to clear them out. It's a last ditch, low cost effort.
 

Wild one

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So apparently I'm still fighting this code. When I changed out the purge valve, I disconnected the battery for a while and the ltft were reset to zero. Over time, they've gradually shifted back to negative values. The truck is constantly trying to pull fuel. At idle, in park or neutral, the LTFT shifts to about -10 on both banks. In gear, about half that. I don't understand why the massive difference other than the difference in load on the engine. While driving, they are still negative, but never more than -5%. I have a battery load tester coming in, so I'm going to check that. I still have the old oxygen sensors. I'm half tempted to at least swap one side to see if it makes a difference. HOWEVER, as I said, on hot starts I do notice that it acts up from time to time, as in it just doesn't crank up the same. Like it starts to fire up too fast or something. So, that leads me to believe the issue isn't actually sensor related. I'm actually starting to wonder if I've got injectors that are bleeding down and leaking. This seems to make sense why the fuel trims are so negative at idle speeds, but seem to even out at higher rpms. I don't want to drop $400+ on new injectors as a guess, but on a stock tune (truck was never tuned), LTFT constantly trying to correct for over-enrichment, it's pointing in that direction. If I were dealing with a leaking manifold, it'd be trying to add fuel, not take it away. Same with a leak at the exhaust manifold or collector. It'd be trying to add fuel, not take it away.

How can I monitor fuel pressure after turning the key off? When using my obd2 scanner, it stops reading as soon as I turn the key to the accessory or off position.

I've added some high doses of techron and redline fuel additive to the fuel tank on less than half a tank in the hopes that maybe there's dirt or something inside some injectors and that stuff would work to clear them out. It's a last ditch, low cost effort.
Pretty easy to check your injectors at home.There's a video in the first post that's a virtual carbon copy of the way i've been bench cleaning and checking injector spray patterns at home for many years.

 
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hunterdan

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Just load tested the battery, checked out fine, never dropped out of the green. Figured the battery was fine. I found a set of rebuilt OEM injectors locally, I might pick them up to swap out since they're not terribly expensive and maybe I'll either send mine out to be rebuilt/cleaned as a precaution. Or see how hard it is to do myself. Fuel pressure at idle is around 56-58 psi if I remember right. If I'm going through the hassle of trying to find 1 or 2 bad injectors, to me it makes more sense to just replace them all at the same time. From there, I can try to track down the ones that were the issue. I'm not trying to throw parts at it and hoping something sticks, but just through all the latest diagnostics, this is what makes the most logical sense.
 
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Going to get a mechanical gauge on the fuel line to watch the bleed down to see/verify if there's any fast bleed down of the fuel pressure. If there is, then I have a pretty solid idea of what my next move is.
 

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Going to get a mechanical gauge on the fuel line to watch the bleed down to see/verify if there's any fast bleed down of the fuel pressure. If there is, then I have a pretty solid idea of what my next move is.
If you find a cheap nitrous fuel line adapter they work good for attaching a mechanical gauge to your fuel rail.
 
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Pressure test kit came in, it does work. Plugged right in. It's a little awkward getting the hoses lined up, but I have it connected. I didn't see any immediate drop in pressure with the key off. I'm letting it sit for some time and then going to check it again. Was hoping I'd be seeing the smoking gun immediately. Either that or all the techron and redline I dumped it is starting to work and clean things out.
 
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30 minutes in and the pressure is still sitting exactly where I left. So either a leaking injector wasn't the cause or its possible the cleaners are starting to work. Going to run this tank out then refill with a higher grade of fuel and another bottle of redline (won't be near as heavy of a concentration) then reset the PCM again and see if the fuel trims start to stabilize. Otherwise, I'm not sure what the issue could be aside from excess fuel pressure, but everything seems to be within spec from what I can tell.
 
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This is my current situation with LTFT, STFT and bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 operation.
STFT is bouncing back and forth between -3% and +3%. The LTFT did seem to level out some, it was -7.8 and -9.8 when I started the truck.
Maybe the charcoal canister is fuel soaked? It hasn't been topped off in several weeks. With KOEO, it's showing 30.1 inHg, which is standard sea level atmospheric pressure.
Intake temp sensor is working and reading normal ambient type temps or within 10 degrees.
 

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Double verified the purge valves. With the plug off and fuel tank side disconnected, not getting any vacuum through the purge valve. Even checked the old OEM one. So, kind of eliminates the purge valve as an issue. Also left the vacuum line off the purge valve off and connected to my vacuum gauge to verify actual engine vacuum at idle. Getting good results there and steady, not bouncing. Went to Alfaobd and check the trucks barometer reading compared to the MAP reading.
Screenshot_20260525-175147.png
The 3.188 barometric pressure seems way low. I'm assuming that's what the actual atmospheric pressure should be?
These are my short term trims.
Screenshot_20260525-174740.png
My long term was stuck at like 12575 or something. Not sure what that's about. But if I go to the obdlink app and use their data, this is what it shows.
Screenshot_20260525-150226.png
This is the injector pulse width for bank 1.
Screenshot_20260525-174450.png
And bank 2 looks similar.
ONLY thing I can think of at this point is I have an injector(s) that is not leaking, but is slow to close. I guess the next step would be to ohm the injectors and see if there's some that are not consistent.
 

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I pulled my pcv valve, I had taken all that out when I had the intake manifold off and cleaned everything up. I'm tempted to maybe pull the catch can and put the regular breather hose back on and see if that'll help.
 

Wild one

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I pulled my pcv valve, I had taken all that out when I had the intake manifold off and cleaned everything up. I'm tempted to maybe pull the catch can and put the regular breather hose back on and see if that'll help.
Did you ever try spraying starting fluid on and around the manifold while it's running to see if you have any air leaks.I've seen a couple manifolds that had hair line cracks that were hard to see,but would let air in.
 
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Did you ever try spraying starting fluid on and around the manifold while it's running to see if you have any air leaks.I've seen a couple manifolds that had hair line cracks that were hard to see,but would let air in.
Yes, no changes in idle
 
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After I got home from work this morning, I immediately hooked up my fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. Started the truck, purge air out of the gauge and then shut the truck off. Gauge climbed to 62 psi from 58 psi while running, then held for a few minutes, but then started dropping. This is not the same results I had the other day when I did this on a cool/not fully warm engine. Within 15 minutes pressure dropped from 62 psi to 52. And in another 10, has dropped to under 40 psi. I can see the gauge dropping. Again, it did not do this the other day when I tested. It held 58 psi for well over 45 minutes. So, to me it sounds like I have an injector that is leaking into the cylinder, especially when things get hot. This is the kind of information I was hoping to see when I tested it the other day.
 
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Pulled the fuel rail this morning to check the injectors and check the spray pattern and clean. Came home from work, ate breakfast real quick. Went outside and pulled the fuel pump fuse. Went to start the truck to bleed off fuel pressure. Truck barely wanted to fire. Tells me my test the other day where the fuel pressure bled off was accurate. So, pulled the rail and started using the contraption I bought. The tester works good. The adapter that adapts the injectors to the spray can, not so much. Luckily I found the hole in the back of the injector ended up making a pretty tight seal to the spray can nozzle and just pushed the injector to the nozzle and activated the tester. I was expecting the spray patterns to be wider. Some of the injectors were still pretty dirty, even after all the cleaners and me cleaning the bottom of the them when I pulled the manifold back in early April.
I actually have some reman'd injectors showing up today. Figured I'd go that route for now and I'll spend some time and clean these originals up really good and maybe see about rebuilding them. Worst case scenario, I can always put the originals back in if these reman'd ones start giving me fits. It's easy enough to do.

PXL_20260529_132147117.jpg
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PXL_20260529_132309209.jpg
This tester was less than $25 on Amazon. Seems worth the money to me.
 
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